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An interesting and informative video from Eaton Detroit Springs


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Although the car is tucked away for winter, I did finally get some information from ADDCO in a live chat session (they never returned my emails) and they confirm that moving forward for the 71-73 Mustangs, the revised rear anti-sway bar design, thanks to Jpaz, will be available from 2/14/21. It actually reads "all 990's currently in stock and that are produced going forward are this revised design". That's a bit vague to me so I'll bet on the February date. I also suggested that they update their listing to reflect the "Revised design" and that has been forwarded to whom ever deals with that.

On rear leaf springs, I have not had any real success in finding out for sure, who make the GAT's, but on one chat forum, it seems AFCO make them. Looking on their website, I was unable to find any reference to GAT's. Also, as there are many steel types to make leaf springs, ASI 5160 is the preferred material. 1095 was mentioned as well, but it seems some are made from 4140, which, while tough is not nearly as durable. My suspicion is the cheap leaf springs are 4140 and possibly GAT's seeing how mine have bent out of shape. Now, to be fair, they were over de-arched when I had the altered and that may have contributed to the deformation. None the less, It pays to do proper research. Cheap is not necessarily the cheapest way in the end. Ask me how I know! For a few bucks more, buy Eaton D.S. springs and know you're getting best quality 5160 steel. By the way, probably your old factory springs can be rebuilt, so another alternative.

A call to Eaton is a good idea, they are very helpful. 1-313-963-7047. Sign up for the Monday 1 minute video as well. They're fun and informative. Geeze, now I sound like I'm doing a advert for them........... and not getting paid.

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Geoff.

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Each week, I get the latest 1 minute video along with some others from Eaton Detroit Springs. Recently, there was discussion about cutting and lowering front coil springs. There has also been many que

I can confirm the February release date for the revised 990 rear sway bar. I spoke with Addco on Nov. 27th. Despite their website talking about "all 990s currently in stock", they admitted they actual

I just learned more than I ever wanted to know about springs. Really that was pretty interesting. Mike

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I can confirm the February release date for the revised 990 rear sway bar. I spoke with Addco on Nov. 27th. Despite their website talking about "all 990s currently in stock", they admitted they actually have none in stock. New bars will be available after Feb. 14, 2021. I also suggested, like Stanglover, that they update their website description of the bar to indicate its unavailability. Not holding my breath for them to do that.

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Barry

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Going back over this one more time, I found a picture of the old Grab-A-Track spring just before the swap to the Eatons. Now, as I've said before, I did have these de-arched, but the guy who did it, went way passed what I'd asked for. However, they did not look like this beforehand when I installed them. This is after running them for most of the year. The reverse bending is obvious. I seriously doubt these are made from anywhere near the grade of 5160 steel. Was it just me that got a set of weak springs?

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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So I am glad I watched this.  I went back to check the torque on the u bolts on mine and found them all loose.

upon finding a missing nut I remembered that the u-bolt kit I bought years ago was missing one of the 8 nuts.  I grabbed a spare I had, torqued them all to 65 and found a significant improvement in rear suspension quality.

kcmash

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12 hours ago, kcmash said:

So I am glad I watched this.  I went back to check the torque on the u bolts on mine and found them all loose.

upon finding a missing nut I remembered that the u-bolt kit I bought years ago was missing one of the 8 nuts.  I grabbed a spare I had, torqued them all to 65 and found a significant improvement in rear suspension quality.

kcmash

Kc, I so glad this thread has helped you. I guess it would make a huge difference after driving around with the back axle about ready to fall out..... well, maybe not quite that bad, but at least loose enough to notice. You mentioned 65 ft/lbs, that is a bit above the spec for a 7/16" fine thread bolt. 45 is the recommended torque. I went to 50 ft/lbs as I think my torque wrench is on the light side. 

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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On 12/8/2020 at 8:28 AM, Stanglover said:

Kc, I so glad this thread has helped you. I guess it would make a huge difference after driving around with the back axle about ready to fall out..... well, maybe not quite that bad, but at least loose enough to notice. You mentioned 65 ft/lbs, that is a bit above the spec for a 7/16" fine thread bolt. 45 is the recommended torque. I went to 50 ft/lbs as I think my torque wrench is on the light side. 

I googled the torque for a 9 inch Mustang U-bolt.  I see the 65-66rs saying 30 ft lbs, but for the 9 inch I see a lot of 65 to 75 ft lbs.  

I guess we will see if they break while driving.

Yep I am feeling pretty stupid this year.  I have been off the road for over 20 years.  With confined space there were times I put parts on the car so they would not get damaged, or to get them out of my way.  So the advice I have for everyone is this.  After restoration, have a nice long sunny Saturday where you buy the food and some drinks. Invite a gear head friend or 2 over and put the car up in the air.  Go front to back checking every torque on every part of the suspension and drivetrain just to make sure.

kcmash

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In this 1 minute video, it states to use manufacturers U bolt nut specs, or use Eaton's

As long as you didn't use an impact wrench, as I've seen done before, you should be ok with 65 ft/lbs. That's not a huge amount. I take it you saw the video that say to torque the U bolt nuts with the car sitting on the ground, not up in the air.

 

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Geoff.

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Well,  I did torque in the air, but I thought that made no sense.

When in the air and supported bu the rear axle housing, you should have the same up force load on the u-bolts as you do when sitting on the ground.  The angle is slightly different but the force is the same.

So being an engineer I am having a tough time thinking about having a bolt under it’s designed tensile load for the application while I am torquing the bolts.  So anyway, I did use a torque wrench, torqued with the car supported by the rear axle, then supported it by the frame, letting the axle hang on the springs and double checked the  torque.

kcmash

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5 hours ago, kcmash said:

Well,  I did torque in the air, but I thought that made no sense.

When in the air and supported bu the rear axle housing, you should have the same up force load on the u-bolts as you do when sitting on the ground.  The angle is slightly different but the force is the same.

So being an engineer I am having a tough time thinking about having a bolt under it’s designed tensile load for the application while I am torquing the bolts.  So anyway, I did use a torque wrench, torqued with the car supported by the rear axle, then supported it by the frame, letting the axle hang on the springs and double checked the  torque.

kcmash

 I would have to think Eaton suggest torqueing the U bolt nuts with all the weight on the axle and springs is because the spring arch may change a bit at the point where the spring plates touch. I'm with you, I wouldn't have thought it would make any difference either, I have in the past torqued the U bolt nut with the axle hanging without any (noticeable) problems. It might be worth a phone call and ask why.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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How To Interpret Ford Part Numbers - EATON Detroit Spring

The above link may be of interest to some newer members. Most will already know this about the Ford numbering system. Print it off for future reference.

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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