Homemade adj strut rods

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Jul 2, 2010
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Location
North Central Arkansas
My Car
1973 mach1
1976 bronco
IMG_0036.JPGIMG_0035.JPGI finally finished my adj. strut rods last week.I basically copied them from daze cars web site http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/adjustable with a few changes. Instead of treading them for 5\8 I threaded them for 3\4 because I didn't have to grind the rod down, and the swedged tube is a little heavier,and I also used a 3\4 rod end.The other thing I did different was to make my own frame bracket out of 1\4in. 2x4 steel I had around.I'm on call this week so I won't get them on the car till this weekend,but I'll try and post some pictures when I get them on.
 
It's not so much the adjustable part as it is getting rid of the bind of the stock bushings.The strut rods only job is to keep the lower control arm from moving from front to back to keep your caster right.The stock bushing is pretty limited in how much it will allow it to move up and down,were as the rod end will allow the lower control arm to move freely and not bind up the rest of the suspension.That's the theory anyway.

 
The only things I did different were make my frame mount out of some 2x4 steel I had laying around and bought the rod ends,tubing and nuts in 3/4.I don't have a motor in mine yet so I am wondering about my sway bar clearance,but I should be able to make a shim or adjustments to make it work.I guess what I'm trying to say is if you use 3/4 tubing you might check your clearances before you take anything apart or order any parts.

 
Hello,

One of my main concerns was that most of the adjustable homemade strut rods were made to bolt direct to the front cross member. Wow, The road noise and bumps that would transfer via the solid mount. Ouch! But, I noticed that you have bushing setup which makes it more adaptable for street use. Were you planning on using both bushings -front/back of the cross member- or just the one that is shown in your pictures?

Also, side note. I have installed the rollerized spring perches and cannot wait to see how much better they are.

Thanks

David

mustang7173

 
I purchased the global west version of what you did. They are a super upgrade but expensive. Very nice work you did and a bunch of money you have saved. It never occured to me to build my own. Hats off to ya.

 
Hello will e,

How does the driving feel on the road? Can you tell if the suspension is much more fluid in it's movement? What other mods have you done to the front end?

Thank you,

mustang7173

I purchased the global west version of what you did. They are a super upgrade but expensive. Very nice work you did and a bunch of money you have saved. It never occured to me to build my own. Hats off to ya.
 
I 'm using them like the picture with the bushing. I have the roller perches too, I have been told the make a difference. Thanks will e ,with 2 kids in college thats about all I can afford to do right now is fab things up, plus I like doing that kind of stuff.

 
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Hello will e,

How does the driving feel on the road? Can you tell if the suspension is much more fluid in it's movement? What other mods have you done to the front end?

Thank you,

mustang7173

I purchased the global west version of what you did. They are a super upgrade but expensive. Very nice work you did and a bunch of money you have saved. It never occured to me to build my own. Hats off to ya.
I went from 'worn' stock bushings to this upgrade. Big improvement. I would recommend this to anyone who plans on keeping the car.

No other real upgrades to the front, a bigger sway bar, that's about it

 
Hello Jay (73 mach1)

OK! Are you going to use the one bushing in the front section of the cross member? What is going to isolate the noise and road bumps? I remember I had install some polyurethane bushings and jeez Louise, it vibrates and bangs from the imperfections of the road. It is not a comfortable ride. Sorry for so many questions here today!

David

Mustang7173

I 'm using them like the picture with the bushing. I have the roller perches too, I have been told the make a difference. Thanks will e ,with 2 kids in college thats about all I can afford to do right now is fab things up, plus I like doing that kind of stuff.
 
I would imagine the poly bushings simply make the intended "pivot" area much too rigid... up, down, in and out. Rigid enough to snap the rod itself on documented occasions.

I see the clevis deal as a simple yet substantial engineering upgrade over the over compromised bushing setup. Zero in and out movement (except when using the one bushing) and unlimited friction free vertical travel.

If so, any added road noise would be secondary in my book.

I could be way wrong, but do plan on making these rods myself for my '71.

 
Hey David,no problem with all the questions.I just use a bushing on the back and it's more or less a spacer because it is a poly bushing .Like MotoArts said your stiffness came from using poly replacement bushings which is a bad idea because they are so stiff and allow no movement of your strut rod. The adjustable strut rods I looked at while doing this didn't use bushings thats why I didn't.It could be something to look into after I get it on the road and see how it feels.

 
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