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71 Mach1(Trans Am) 2" nose drop


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That's gonna be way cool rumbling down the street for ice cream! It would be awesome to see at a Pro Touring event too! 

I love this build... great work. 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Greetings.......These are the over rider traction bar mounts for the chassis and the axle.I made them out of 1/8'' and patterned them from a Shelby team car.They tie into the chassis at the rear torqu

A few of my related archived pics. I have more but would need to look harder to locate.  :)  That #25 car is the Tope car when owned and raced by Bill Maier, owner of a very well-known 'repopper' Shel

Hello,it only took 4 weeks  to install the radiator,but at least it's done. I made the mounts using the KK blue prints for 69/70,and modified it for a 71.The radiator is a high as I could get it. The

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10 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

Great work and a lot of work. Cant wait until you are done and report driving it. It would probably be a beast.

The part i didnt follow well was the tower bracing. Was that just reinforcing the walls of the tower or does it also include a cross bar from tower to tower?

Edit: after looking at the pictures again in the computer I see it better that on the phone. What you did was kind of box the opening below the UCA.

Hi ,actually I am deciding what to do about adding a bar in between the towers on top.The Chassis Manual does show how and where to put one...........but on the 70 team cars,they don't have one.the 69 cars have the bar,in 70 they deleted it and went to what you would call an upper frame rail that was built and installed from the top of the cowl under the fender apron just to the front of the shock tower.So what I am doing is trying to think like a Kar Kraft engineer and figure out what and how they would have addressed that area. The 70 and 71 rules stated that no additional bars may be added forward of the fire wall,which is why I believe they went to the doubler and made it look like Ford made it that way.....................................even though I believe the 69 Shelby cars had a 1 1/2 tube that went from the top of the torque box to the shock tower.

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2 hours ago, 71Rustang said:

Hi ,actually I am deciding what to do about adding a bar in between the towers on top.The Chassis Manual does show how and where to put one...........but on the 70 team cars,they don't have one.the 69 cars have the bar,in 70 they deleted it and went to what you would call an upper frame rail that was built and installed from the top of the cowl under the fender apron just to the front of the shock tower.So what I am doing is trying to think like a Kar Kraft engineer and figure out what and how they would have addressed that area. The 70 and 71 rules stated that no additional bars may be added forward of the fire wall,which is why I believe they went to the doubler and made it look like Ford made it that way.....................................even though I believe the 69 Shelby cars had a 1 1/2 tube that went from the top of the torque box to the shock tower.

I would be interested in seeing what you are talking about the 70 going under the fender apron. My guess is that you won't get too much lateral stiffness that way, but definitely longitudinal stiffness. What about reinforcing the current tower braces. They have a near 45 degrees angle so if they were reinforced it should help adding stiffness without the MC cross bar.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Hi.Just more welding,welding,welding and yes more welding.The good news is the engine crossmember is rock solid.I also replaced the bottom of it do to the fact it was bent, smashed in and ugly.I  have never had one of these cars where it wasn't bent somehow.I used a piece of 1/8'' so now you actually can jack it it up there now.The rest is just pretty much weld every seam within reason.Before you could grab it with your hands and squeeze and watch it flex,now all of that is gone.The last thing to do is make extra bracing for the LCA mount. That will not be like on the 69/70 cars.I have come up with 3 different ways to do it.............I just have to pick the idea that uses the least amount of steel and the shortest bolt length,which is also the most ridged.

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Hello.Ok...........we all know 71/73 Mustangs do share the same Falcon D.N.A.with the earlier Mustangs,but they are different none the less.So this task of making and installing LCA braces is not as easy as in the earlier cars due to the fact the crossmember is part of the chassis and made of sheet metal,16 gauge with some 14g. I approached this as how a Kar Kraft engineer might have. First, this will not have the desired effect if you do not weld all of the seems in the crossmember solid including the control arm nut access holes and fully weld it to the shock towers like I posted in earlier posts.It was flimsy before ,but welding it tightened it up and took out the flex.I made (4) 1/4'' plates that I installed between the rear of the control arm mount and the rear wall of the engine crossmember,making a box with sides splayed out for strength and so I could fit the nozzle of the welder into such a tight space.Once again most of the welding was done blind and by feel just by watching the heat bloom of the weld and knowing when to stop and start the next weld.It wasn't fun and all overhead.Its the simplest and strongest that I could do in such a small,confined space. I would say KK  approved. The suspension is mocked up mostly,still waiting for monoball kits for the strut rods. Your looking at a 9.5" tall 1200lb coil and my own racey go fast control arms.I am shooting for about 2 inches between the ground and the engine crossmember.

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Edited by 71Rustang
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Good idea on how to reinforce the LCA attachment point. I always thought it looked weak.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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On 9/29/2020 at 11:57 PM, tony-muscle said:

I would be interested in seeing what you are talking about the 70 going under the fender apron. My guess is that you won't get too much lateral stiffness that way, but definitely longitudinal stiffness. What about reinforcing the current tower braces. They have a near 45 degrees angle so if they were reinforced it should help adding stiffness without the MC cross bar.

Hello again, here are a few pics of the "extra frame rails" KarKraft added

Screenshot_20201004-091105_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20201004-091142_Chrome.jpg

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14 hours ago, 71Rustang said:

Hello again, here are a few pics of the "extra frame rails" KarKraft added

Screenshot_20201004-091105_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20201004-091142_Chrome.jpg

Cool. Thank you.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I didn't see anything about the firewall. Did you do anything to stiffen it like continuous welding? A stiffer firewall should help in stiffening the chassis. 

Edited by tony-muscle

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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3 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

I didn't see anything about the firewall. Did you do anything to stiffen it like continuous welding? A stiffer firewall should help in stiffening the chassis. 

The entire car..........I was just doing the fire wall today. So I skip welded the upper cowl to the lower cowl then the cowl to the firewall. Fire wall to rear fender aprons ,fire wall to torque boxes.......ect.....y'all get the idea. The whole car. You don't really notice it on Trans Am cars because of the speckled paint Bud Moore used, unless you look at a 69 Shelby as I recall they used white and I think gray. I also ordered the monoballs for the strut rods today. They should be a joy to get the front half welded in through the front of the crossmember............

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Hello everyone,more progress and by that I mean welding,welding,welding,welding,welding.....................................more welding have a coffee followed by welding,and more welding with periods of grinding and finishing.Been kind of a rough week with EVH passing.I tear up just thinking about it...................So I just keep working on the car. As before I am skip welding 2 inches ,skip 2 and weld 2 inches.working my way to the rear of the car.Welding the rocker pinch welds sucked royally,because of the galvanizing and I am doing all of this on the floor overhead. So after I did those and the torque boxes ,I finish ground and sanded them straight and smooth.All of the other welds will be left as is. When it comes time to paint the car I will be adding EVH stripes somewhere into the paint scheme .It will be tasteful and thoughtful ,just a small reminder.

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Nice work, the hours and hours... WOW! 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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love it..... can't wait to see it completed!!!!!!!! Will be following this one for sure!!!

Travis

1971 Mach1

1972 Mach1

1970 Mach1

1931 Ford Model A coupe

2015 Ford F-150

2010 Fusion

I bleed FORD blue:)

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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Some cool pictures on that link from this Trans-Am 1973:

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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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That car originally looked like this: I like it better the way it was.He originally ran it with 15x10 Minilites on all 4 corners.Still a cool car.

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Me again.This modification I was debating about for a while. I have decided to move the inner wheel houses,flush with the frame.Doing it for a couple of reasons.First,it can't hurt. If I just do it,it's done,tire clearance will never be a problem.2nd,I haven't yet decided if I am going to run the traction bars the team cars used.They attach to the top of the rear and go through the body and attach to a mount on the top of the torque box. If I don't mini tub the car I will not have the clearance to run the bars,and yes the car does have staggered shocks.None of the KK cars had staggered shocks.Lastly Minilite emailed me to tell me my wheels where done and ready to be shipped.The rear wheels are 15x10 with a 5 inch backspace and I plan to run a 60'' wide rear,so doing this means I can just bolt the wheels on and not worry about anything hitting on the inside and just hammer out my flares.I just finished one side so far. The front is 5 inches wider and about 2 inches wider at the rear. What a pain in the ass.............................on to the other side

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Nice!, I will be doing the same to my car in the future to fit some bigger meats in the back. 

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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What size tires are you planing for the rear? What size tires and wheels for the front?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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10 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

What size tires are you planing for the rear? What size tires and wheels for the front?

Like I said,the rears are 15x10 with a 5'' backspace and the fronts are 15x8 with a 4 1/4'' backspace.I wanted less backspacing in the front so I have more caliper and ball joint clearance and not deal with spacers,which was common.Allan Moffats car ran 8s and 10s in the 70s and I think the car is still set up that way. As for tires the correct Goodyears are still made. the fronts would have been a 6.00x15 and the rears 8.00x15.Hoosier makes nice tires as well. The problem with bias racing tires is they sorta have a short shelf life before dry rot and sidewall cracks.I have this problem with the wheelstander.So for now to build the car I am going with the equal size in radials.Front 600x15=265 50 15 and rear 800x15=295 50 15. Hankook makes a white letter tire in both those sizes.

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The mini tub looks great. I look forward to progress on this one all the time. I love Minilites, it's going to be a great look. Keep up the great work. 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Here's the other side number B.This one went a little easier,but still took the same amount of time.I'm not going to finish all of the welds flush. I was just going to run over them all with a 36 grit disc to knock off all the high and sharp spots,just to smooth out all the welds and see how I like it. The whole interior is going to be painted with Zolatone ,probably the black with grey and white spatter.

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I have Minilites ,fronts are 15x8 and the rears are 15x10 both with a 5x4 1/2'' bolt pattern.I elected not to do the Lincoln hub and rotor with the 5x5 pattern.So I am going to use the stock 71 disc brake hubs which I had to go find in my local junkyard. For rotors I will be using 68 T-Bird rotors which are 12x1.25 the same size as the Lincoln rotors.I pulled a rusty set just for mock up.

 The rest is just more chassis welding,which will soon be coming to an end under the car.I also removed the front gas tank mount.That is where the Watts link crossmember is going and the car is getting a fuel cell anyway.Probably going to cut a big hole in the trunk pan and build a frame and drop the cell in from the top.

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Edited by 71Rustang
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I love those wheels! Man is that chassis going to be rigid. Can you tell much difference when you move the car around? 

That style rotor/hub is still available new. Will you be putting the T-bird rotors on the wheel side of the hub or the spindle side like it is in the photo? 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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