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71 Mach1(Trans Am) 2" nose drop


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I literally threw away my old rotors a couple weeks ago. They would have been free but with shipping may have not been any better. I also dig those wheels. Who makes them?

 

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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15 hours ago, droptop73 said:

I love those wheels! Man is that chassis going to be rigid. Can you tell much difference when you move the car around? 

That style rotor/hub is still available new. Will you be putting the T-bird rotors on the wheel side of the hub or the spindle side like it is in the photo? 

Hi.Yes the chassis is super rigid. Yes you can tell that it is way stiffer than before.The doors even sound different when you close them.The car will also be getting a cage. I know you can get drum hubs new,but was not aware of any disc hubs being produced since most if not all of the disc kits are for drum brake cars,the spindles are easier to adapt brackets to.The rotors mount to the back of the hub just as normally,but I will be using 3 inch studs.

Edited by 71Rustang
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11 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

I literally threw away my old rotors a couple weeks ago. They would have been free but with shipping may have not been any better. I also dig those wheels. Who makes them?

 

That's why I had to go to the junk yard in the first place. The standard practice for doing brakes on the front of a 60s or 70s Ford is to replace the 2 piece with a 1 piece rotor,and chuck the factory stuff.I don't think I have ever owned a Ford with original disc brake hubs still on it.The hubs were only 12 bucks a piece.....................Minilite, makes Minilite wheels.They are made in England.I do think that they owned by a bigger company though.This is what they used back in 69,70,71......ect on the Boss TA cars,Cameros,Javelins ect...........

Edited by 71Rustang
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8 hours ago, 71Rustang said:

Hi.Yes the chassis is super rigid. Yes you can tell that it is way stiffer than before.The doors even sound different when you close them.The car will also be getting a cage. I know you can get drum hubs new,but was not aware of any disc hubs being produced since most if not all of the disc kits are for drum brake cars,the spindles are easier to adapt brackets to.The rotors mount to the back of the hub just as normally,but I will be using 3 inch studs.

I am using the one piece rotors with longer studs but I fried a wheel bearing in east Tennessee and could only get the 2 piece for the repair.  I think it was an Advance or O'Reilly's. 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Finished welding all of the underbody seams with the exception of the drivers staggered shock mount.  I will weld that in or modify it as needed  when I build the watts link. I am not convinced that I won't have a clearance issue. Or maybe I will reverse the watts cross bar locations and it will be fine. I'll figure that out when I get there.

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Hello again. More chassis seam welding. I'm done welding seams solid. Now all of the rest of them get skip welded. I'm done all of the seams on the front of the car and the tub. The last bit I have to do on the inside will be the B pillers to the inner quarters and the wheel houses to the inner quarters

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Did you measure how many feet of mig wire did you use?:biggrin:

20210826_100810-mod-s.jpg.52aeaedc03b0419348700fb9c465e338.jpg

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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7 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

Did you measure how many feet of mig wire did you use?:biggrin:

Know idea, you just keep going till it's done. Probably not as much as you would think

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Hi all.i finished welding all the interior structural panels together. That's pretty much it for that. The car is still straight and the doors still shut ,so we will call that a win.Next I will figure out how to install the monoball bearings into the front crossmember for the strut rods.The bearings take the place of the stock bushings.But once again these Mustangs are different than the earlier cars and the bushing mounts are rather different.The older cars have 3 layers of steel to bore a bigger hole through and weld in the housing and room to work. These cars have a crossmember made of 14 gauge with swagged in round sleeves that are spotted onto the crossmember.So once I make the hole at 2 5/8''there is barely anything left of the sleeve and the front part will fall off,leaving just the 14 gauge crossmember which is not strong enough. So once again I put on my KK thinking cap and figure out a way how they would have done this. The only other reference I have is pics of Topes car.But he removed the crossmember and installed tubing with brackets for Heim joints. The first pic is of Warren Topes car.

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Edited by 71Rustang
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Someone on here made bolt in brackets to attach rod ends to similar to the Tope car. It seems that would shorten the rods quite a bit and maybe have negative effects on caster and toe.

How about welding a ring around the "bushing" and maybe add some gussets to that and weld the ring to the crossmember? I'm not sure how much room you'd have to work.  I'm sure you'll come up with an effective way to mount it. 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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No more bushings.Since the redesign of the Mustang made the front suspension better,it also made the front crossmember worse.I had thought about just cutting the whole thing out and throwing it away,but that would be the easy way out.I wanted to use it so this is what I came up with. The factory bushing mounts are just pressed in with 2 halves,swagged together then spotted to the crossmember. So I elected to just get rid of both of them and hole sawed a 3 1/2'' hole in both sides.Then I made two 1/4'' thick mounting rings to weld the bearing housings to. The point of those was to strengthen the 14 gauge single wall crossmember and have a wider mounting flange to have access to weld it in on the back and in the front through the access holes.That wasn't easy. I just cranked the gas up and had about an 1 1/2'' of wire lead out and steady hands with good aim. I also had no line of sight to weld the front in. The only other option would be to cut the front corners off to gain access and then put them back on. Or maybe buying a 70 mustang would be easier.

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Hello. I've been working all week on this and I finally have it. I will not be running a Monte Carlo bar because I don't want one,and it won't work with my set up anyway. So I am installing the "upper frame rail supports" as KK installed them on the 70s. I feel that they  would have continued to due so on the 71s. For reference I have included a pic of a Bud Moore 70 Mustang.Since the 71s are rather different in the front end I used the 70 for reference and changed it for the 71 chassis. Now I just have to turn cardboard and tape into sheetmetal and welds...........

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Really impressive chassis work, well done. These cars are real "flexible flyers" as built. The work will be worth the effort. Chuck

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On 11/23/2020 at 9:39 AM, c9zx said:

Really impressive chassis work, well done. These cars are real "flexible flyers" as built. The work will be worth the effort. Chuck

Thank you.

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Here's the finished boxing pieces for the upper door to shock tower bracing. I just have to fit and weld to the car. I also am trying to figure how I going to deal with the cowl drains. Kar Kraft cut off the outer cowl panels on the 69/ 70 cars and just plated over the drains.......because race cars and water drains aren't important. But I would like to have a way for the water to get out.............I'll figure a nice clean solution out.

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This is awesome. Can you share dimensions/drawings for the boxing pieces?

For the drain, a way could be to fit a hose between the original drain hole and through a hole in the box. You could weld a nipple to the original drain and add a silicone hose or some kind of braided hose that would withstand the elements.

20210826_100810-mod-s.jpg.52aeaedc03b0419348700fb9c465e338.jpg

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Hi again.I'm pretty much fighting with myself over if I should cut holes in the boxing plates to make the cowl drains functional. The thing is, I have come up with at least 5 or 6 different ways to have the drains work and the truth is I hate them all,no matter how much I make them look like they are supposed to be there.I still hate them.I'm a very details oriented person.Details matter and all of the small details for me add up to the big picture.And even though nobody will ever see the holes or the supports for that matter,if I put the holes in,it will bother me. So if I get a little water in the cowl from washing or get caught in the rain I can just put a rag down in there and get the water out. It's never going to rust out again anyway. I am leaning toward how KK would have done it,because.................race car. Oh...........and I really can't give accurate dimensions on them because of the nose drop, the tops of the aprons are shorter than stock.But they are 23 1/2'' and 22 1/2'' long from the end of the cowl to the front of the shock tower.They follow the shape of the car and are 16 gauge.

Edited by 71Rustang
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Hi,here's what I decided to do about the cowl drains. I blocked of the large half round openings. I then welded all of the seams of the cowl extension to the apron making it water tight. I made filler pieces for the top of the extension and at the bottom where it is cut out for the front cowl channel runs through it. I reworked the ends of the front flange to allow any water to run off.  Now water will not be able to get into the upper apron boxes when installed. As for water getting in the cowl. I will just deal with it.  I'm not going to seal the top off as the vent hole on the drivers side will be used for air to the driver and the pass will be vented to the transmission  though the floor.

 

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Hi everyone. Well after a lot of research and work. My ,what do I think Kar Kraft would have done to install upper frame rails on a 71 Mustang is done. I Think they turned out very well. they extend 23 1/2'' out from the front of the cowl plates and are 1 1/2'' tall at the very front. They are fully welded and sealed at both ends.They are also fully boxed at the spring pocket................................Next.

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I just ran through the entire thread, and I have to say, Excellent Work - Truly Inspiring!  I love the vision and direction you're going - very cool, indeed!

My one question: why did you feel the need to mini-tub when you're planning on stuffing 'just' 295/50R15s on 15x10s w/5" back spacing out back?  I have the same wheel size setup as what you spec'd without any modifications whatsoever, although I have 5 1/4" back spacing on those 15x10s.

Just my curiosity asking the question.

Eric

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