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71 Mach1(Trans Am) 2" nose drop


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10" front tires without power steering is going to be a bear when you go to park this beast at your local grocery store.

You banged out those flares with the existing sheet metal without adding any metal?  Damn...you're the man!

Let me check your shorts!

http://midlifeharness.com

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Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, midlife said:

10" front tires without power steering is going to be a bear when you go to park this beast at your local grocery store.

You banged out those flares with the existing sheet metal without adding any metal?  Damn...you're the man!

Thank you.......Just basic body hammers,dollies and technique. As long as you can see things that aren't there, just keep swinging the hammer until you see it. It's only metal.

Edited by 71Rustang
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16 hours ago, 71Rustang said:

Thanks.There was a point when I was installing the Watts box,that I thought to myself,now she's a TA. After finishing hammering out the last flare and looked down the side and thought,now......now it really is a TA Mustang.

Are you looking at welding on premade flares,glass flares,build your own and weld them on,or doing a milder version of what I did? Just buy rolling out and flattening the lip they gained an 1 1/2'' There are multiple ways. The way I built mine is the way Kar Kraft and Bud Moore built them.

It is a wish dream list, but it is not going to happen soon so I have not really thought about. However, if I go this route, I would want a mild flare.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 3 weeks later...

Awesome. Those big wheels at the front will make a huge difference in handling. You had already reinforced your suspension to handle the extra forces. I am sure you are using some good ball joints to handle it.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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9 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

Awesome. Those big wheels at the front will make a huge difference in handling. You had already reinforced your suspension to handle the extra forces. I am sure you are using some good ball joints to handle it.

All the ball joints are Moog,so they should do ok.The TA cars did run an adjustable Moog lower ball joint which is no longer available.It had a threaded adjuster on the bottom so you could take out slack. So when ever I wear out the lowers I have found Howe and I think another place makes an adjustable ball joint that I can fit into the lower arm.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Back in the day we used windshield caulk to seal the tub to the quarter panel. 

Nice work BTW... 

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[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Hi.Moving along here we have the completed outer wheel house extensions welded in. I'm still thinking about if I want to use body adhesive or just tack them to the quarters in a few places. The flares get filler anyway to smooth them out. On to the next thing.

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On 10/19/2021 at 10:18 AM, droptop73 said:

Back in the day we used windshield caulk to seal the tub to the quarter panel. 

Nice work BTW... 

Thank you ,I'm still thinking about how I'm going to seal them.

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