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I just purchased a 71 that came with a 302/ 4 barrel/ c4.   Currently has a Cleveland/C6.

The block has a broken crankshaft where they all break but it did not damage the block.  The block has a D1 number but the intake has a C8 number.   It had a valve job at some time and I hope that the heads are the originals.  How can I tell if the heads are the originals?

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Are you talking about the 302 or 351? Never heard there was ever an issue with cranks breaking fill me in on that one. There are casting dates on all blocks, heads and such. If the casting date is after your car was built then did not come on it. Needs to be at least two to three weeks new casting date that car build date. Here is good reference for parts ID. 
The original block will have a partial VIN# stamped just below the L.H. rear of the head. Likely all crooked and jumbled unless the block came from Atlanta where they used a stamp holder.
http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDecode.html

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Can you post some pictures?

I don't think a 351C will have any casting numbers starting with 'C8,' as that would be 1968. But, I've been wrong before!

 

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Only time I've ever seen a 302 or 351W crank break was back in the 90's when the 5.0 Mustang guys were pushing the stock parts to the limit. Crank would usually break between the #4 main bearing and the #4/#8 rod journal. Results were predictable, the still running front portion of the crank would come around, contact the rear portion and twist it out of the #5 main, destroying the block and transmission all in one shot. 

 

 

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My old boss use to build some wild 289's back in the 60's They had no head gaskets and crazy high compression. Would use 327 chevy pop up pistons and contour the piston to get 14 or 15 to 1 compression and very high RPM. One customer brought one back in and it had blown as most race engines do, lol. The crank was out of the engine but it took the bottom half of the block with it. Block split through the cam bore and separated the block and crank did not break but all was trash but something to see. 
Some of those blowing on dyno are like high explosives inside and fly all over.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 3 weeks later...

The 302 crank broke while it was at a stop sign.  He said that there was a noise before but no one could pin point the source.  All at once he said it let go and scared the hell out of him and shut it off towed it home and slammed in the 351/C6.  The crank broke right in front of 1@5

The 302 has a D71 # on the block.  I do not know how many miles the Cleveland has but the fuel tank was causing problems and the brakes were gone so he just parked it in his garage and buried it under what ever did not fit in the car.  The plate expired in 88.

The build date on the car is 10-70.

I had a stern drive shop for 30 + years and one time  the Coast Guard brought me a boat with a 302 that broke the crank @ 4500rpm and it destroyed the timing cover.

On he pad behind the manifold is F134722.  The cast # on the block is D1OE 6015 AA. And also what looks like OK16

The vin #. F05F134722 which definitely proves the 302 is the original.

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This car was originally the green similar to 67 Ford Inverness green or dark moss green the same color as the Bullit color then some idiot painted it white, added a Mach 1 hood, spoiler and stripes.  The paint is probably the worse I have ever seen.  Cracking, falling off.  I hope I can bring it back to the original color.   Basically the poor thing is a rag!  About 80% of the body is solid, small holes on the passenger side floor, about 18” over the r rear fender lip and a hole in the r rear floor about 3”.   The carpet, seats and door panels with a cracked dash are hurting.

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