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getting ready for my undercarriage phase of my car and want to replace the original leaf springs.   Looking at youtube it seems pretty simple but I am working with just jack stands, etc.  Is it something I should tackle or have a shop do it?

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Both front eye bolts on mine were frozen solid. Even a gas torch didn't move them and not much room for a big hammer. Sitting on the shelf in the shed was this small bottle jack I made years ago durin

I have the Meier springs and they are awesome. These are 4.5 leaves and rated at 160. Great comfortable ride and zero wheel hop. I didnt know the Eatons were that expensive. At that price for Eatons,

I am copying this from Mike Meier's page for leaf springs. I find this very persuasive from a person that really knows these cars and has raced Mustangs for years. At the end of the day it will also d

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Pretty easy and straight forward.  It’s easier if you have another set of hands but can be done with floor jack and some good jack stands.  Just make sure to support the car well and be safe.  

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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I just did mine last week. I did it on 2 - 6 ton jack stands placed just forward of the spring eyes and then a 3 ton floor jack under the pumpkin. I did post on this in my thread. These videos should help. Work on one side at a time. Undo your shocks and sway bar link if you have one. TAKE a pic for reference if you're not sure how to put it back together. Indo the U bolt nuts with axle supported. Undo the shackle nuts top and bottom, remove the shackle and lower the spring. The with a 3/4" long socket you can get at the Eye Bolt through the frame. With a 3/4" wrench undo the nut. This is a deformed lock nut, so it will be stiff getting it off. Installing is the reverse, BUT make sure the locate spring pin is fitting into the hole on the axle plate. It may take a bit of wriggling to line it up. Once in, place the U Bolts and loosely tighten the nuts, reconnect the shackle and tighten the nuts. Use new nuts if you're using your old shackles. Oh, I forgot to mention to install the new rubbers (or Urethane )  A little WD40 will make that easier. You will need to adjust the height of the axle as you do this by the way.  Replace the shocks and sway bar. One side done, repeat on the other. Once the car is under full weight, tighten the U Bolt nuts to 45 ft/lbs Took me all of 2 hours. Then go drive for 40-50 miles and retorque all the nuts.

For springs, please do not buy Grab-A-Track, I was not happy with the ride height unless you want the rear end way up in the air.

I highly suggest using Eaton springs and as I said, I found the Boss 351 153lb just about perfect for the Mach 1. Also look into larger sway bar and better oil shocks.

 

Edited by Stanglover

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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1 hour ago, jscott said:

thanks for the info

Good luck, I was a bit hesitant myself to pull and replace the rear axle and springs, but once I got into it, it really was not that bad. Just make sure your safe under there. Without a hoist, crawling around on the ground is getting hard on my/our aging bones (and fake hip)

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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9 minutes ago, jscott said:

yeah, I have a ceramic hip also and a knee screwed together as well

Mine is titanium and "plastic" socket. I got the "sports model" that should last me 30 years. I said to my surgeon "I'll only be 101 when I need a replacement" Well see I guess. I bicycle ride about 1600+miles a year to keep fit.

OK we're way off topic now, but.......

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Here is why I got mine, head on in '81 hip had to remain just screwed together because they did not have a prosthesis that would work with my fracture until 2004.

 

cutlass2.jpg

cutlass1.jpg

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5 hours ago, jscott said:

getting ready for my undercarriage phase of my car and want to replace the original leaf springs.   Looking at youtube it seems pretty simple but I am working with just jack stands, etc.  Is it something I should tackle or have a shop do it?

The hardest part is usually the front spring eye bolt. If they are original, there's a chance they could be rusted into the front eye bushing inner sleeve. The simplest way to fix that is a top quality blade on a Sawzall and cut the bolt on each side next to the hanger. Worst case is you end up dissecting the spring, the bushing and then cutting the bolt. You just don't know until you take the nut off and attempt to drive out the bolt. 

 

 

 

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13 minutes ago, Hemikiller said:

The hardest part is usually the front spring eye bolt. If they are original, there's a chance they could be rusted into the front eye bushing inner sleeve. The simplest way to fix that is a top quality blade on a Sawzall and cut the bolt on each side next to the hanger. Worst case is you end up dissecting the spring, the bushing and then cutting the bolt. You just don't know until you take the nut off and attempt to drive out the bolt. 

 

Good point on the eye bolt.

I guess I'm spoiled on mine as there was no such thing as a rusted bolt or nut anywhere.

Also perhaps use anti-seize on the bolts going back in.

Edited by Stanglover

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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51 minutes ago, jscott said:

Here is why I got mine, head on in '81 hip had to remain just screwed together because they did not have a prosthesis that would work with my fracture until 2004.

 

cutlass2.jpg

cutlass1.jpg

Damn man that would hurt!! You're lucky to be alive.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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28 minutes ago, Stanglover said:

Good point on the eye bolt.

I guess I'm spoiled on mine as there was no such thing as a rusted bolt or nut anywhere.

Also perhaps use anti-seize on the bolts going back in.

I suggest you take it to a shop.

My front bolt was one with the eyelet and bushing.  I was only 33 at the time and the job totally sucked.  Luckily I was tearing mine down, because by the time I was through cutting on it and realized I still couldn't get it apart, there was no way to make it drivable again.  I had my bodyman clean up my mess.

I think an Acetylene torch is mandatory for that bolt.

kcmash

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One of the biggest problems is the limited space available to swing the big hammer. I have C clamp that is even older than me that is super heavy duty and the throat of it is just 6 or 8 inches, and it uses a hex wrench to turn it. An appropriately sized socket over the bolt head and after letting a good dose of panther piss soak on it it will press just about anything apart. I did have to resort to a Sawzall once on a '64 F100 I used to have, though.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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It could well turn out to be a PITA, but everyone is assuming the Eye bolts will be rusted in. Perhaps jscott can take a look at them and get back to us. It might not be too bad to do.............. or not!

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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well I have nothing but time on my hands.  I am about to put the car up on my homemade lift boxes (2 x 4s, see pic example) to clean up the undercarriage, exhaust, etc.  So I will hose down the bolts to the springs and test the waters soon after to see if they want to come out.  If I feel it is getting a bit difficult I will farm it out to a shop.

 

 

 

car on 2 x 4.jpg

Edited by jscott
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10 minutes ago, jscott said:

well I have nothing but time on my hands.  I am about to put the car up on my homemade lift boxes (2 x 4s, see pic example) to clean up the undercarriage, exhaust, etc.  So I will hose down the bolts to the springs and test the waters soon after to see if they want to come out.  If I feel it is getting a bit difficult I will farm it out to a shop.

 

 

 

car on 2 x 4.jpg

................... That's not a mustang!!!  Like your lift boxes though. 

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Its definately something that you can DIY. I did mine a month or so ago and everything people here said in terms of the steps is correct. Most of the bolts came off without any problem except for 1 of the eye bolts. The drivers side eye bolt needed to be cut. As long as you have a good blade for a recip saw it is short work. I personally recommend the Milwaukee Carbide Torch blade, it cut through the bolt in no time. Start to finish, both sides is likely a few hours and just start with one side at a time. A good jack, some jack stands, and the appropriate sockets and its pretty easy. 

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the u bolts where frozen on mine  i used a Sawzall       and the passenger front leaf connecter  bolt was a bugger but its not that hard 

Edited by nailpounder
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having a air chisel is helpful, a sawzall is almost certainly necessary.  Patience helps.  All in all it is still better than changing the front rubber bushings in existing springs

 

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Both front eye bolts on mine were frozen solid. Even a gas torch didn't move them and not much room for a big hammer. Sitting on the shelf in the shed was this small bottle jack I made years ago during a trade course. I was never sure what it would ever be used for but with a strip of steel against the back of the rocker panel it fitted nicely against the eye bolt. After plenty of penetrating oil, the jack pushed the bolts through. Still took a lot or force on the adjusting nut to break the bolts free. So my motto has always been, never throw anything out, it may come in handy one day.

 

20201022_084342.jpg

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On 10/21/2020 at 1:11 PM, Tnfastbk said:

Hand tools, air tools. BFH and drift, Floor jack and stands, can of Aero Kroil. Job can be tedious but not really a hard job.

KROIL! Best stuff on earth...

 

A word about working with jack stands...when you raise the car and take the wheels off, slide the wheels under the car ahead of the jack stands. If anything happens, the car lands on the tires, not you.

Edited by detritusmaximus
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On 10/21/2020 at 2:25 PM, jscott said:

 

 

 

 

car on 2 x 4.jpg

Now that's nice!

 

Cars okay, I guess.

 

I use something similar that has a flat 2x10 top to put the jackstands on top of it. I figure the less the stands are extended, the more stable it is.

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On 10/21/2020 at 3:21 PM, Stanglover said:

It could well turn out to be a PITA, but everyone is assuming the Eye bolts will be rusted in. Perhaps jscott can take a look at them and get back to us. It might not be too bad to do.............. or not!

took a wrench to one side and a socket to the inside and yanked and yanked and so on..........it took some muscle both both eye bolts turn and outside nuts were removed, then re-installed as I am not ready to swap at the leaf springs yet.  Same with the shackle nuts, they seem to be moving as well.   I assume pushing out  the eye bolt once the nut is off will be not that hard as it is turning.

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Watching this as the rear springs are next on my list.  No ceramic hips but I can relate having spinal fusion done....  Good luck and keep us updated!

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