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71 Mach 1 Update video #7


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Another great vid.  You are starting to make some real progress now.  Won't be long before you start putting things back together  That is when the real thrill begins. 

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Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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7 minutes ago, Kilgon said:

Another great vid.  You are starting to make some real progress now.  Won't be long before you start putting things back together  That is when the real thrill begins. 

thanks! man, i cannot WAIT until i have the doors, fenders, deck lid, grill and stuff on, even if its just for a quick look. itl be some much appreciated inspriation!

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Looks great! Very Nice Job!!    

Don't forget to fit the front fender extensions when you mock up the fenders. Especially on the aftermarket fender.  They are notorious for not having the proper curve to them to match the extension. I had to make about a 6" pie cut in the fender and weld it back up to get the fender curve to match the extension curve. 

Keep up the good work. Your making a ton of progress! 

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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30 minutes ago, turtle5353 said:

Looks great! Very Nice Job!!    

Don't forget to fit the front fender extensions when you mock up the fenders. Especially on the aftermarket fender.  They are notorious for not having the proper curve to them to match the extension. I had to make about a 6" pie cut in the fender and weld it back up to get the fender curve to match the extension curve. 

Keep up the good work. Your making a ton of progress! 

Thanks for the tips! 
so I have two aftermarket fender extensions to try in case somethig doesn’t work and also have a another OEM fender if all else fails. 
as I’m looking at all these parts I am amazed the amount of “play” or movement allowed in all the variable components. makes sense why it can be quite a challenge lining everything up! 

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Take your time and dont rush when lining everything up. get it as perfect as you can. Then when your happy with it, drill alignment holes in the hinges and fenders so when you put them back on the car after paint they will line right back up. I usually remove 1 hinge bolt and drill my hole where the washer will hide it when done. Same with the fenders.  you can use a 1/8" drill bit and 1/8" pin to line up holes when you re assemble. 

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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2 hours ago, turtle5353 said:

Take your time and dont rush when lining everything up. get it as perfect as you can. Then when your happy with it, drill alignment holes in the hinges and fenders so when you put them back on the car after paint they will line right back up. I usually remove 1 hinge bolt and drill my hole where the washer will hide it when done. Same with the fenders.  you can use a 1/8" drill bit and 1/8" pin to line up holes when you re assemble. 

 This is a brilliant idea!! Thank you for that 

 

2 hours ago, turtle5353 said:

Take your time and dont rush when lining everything up. get it as perfect as you can. Then when your happy with it, drill alignment holes in the hinges and fenders so when you put them back on the car after paint they will line right back up. I usually remove 1 hinge bolt and drill my hole where the washer will hide it when done. Same with the fenders.  you can use a 1/8" drill bit and 1/8" pin to line up holes when you re assemble. 

 

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Scrap the SS brake lines.

Stainless is very hard compared to the galvanized or whatever the original material is.  With the brass proportioning valve seats you will be fighting leaks for a while.

From my experience you will regret stainless, but if you do decide to use it do this.  Put the suspension and brake system together first, with the pedal box.  Seal it all up bleed it and test it.  That way if you ruin any paint with brake leaks you can repaint easily.

If you do get brake fluid on paint, quickly use lots of soap and water to get rid of it.  It eats paint quick.

kcmash

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14 minutes ago, kcmash said:

Scrap the SS brake lines.

Stainless is very hard compared to the galvanized or whatever the original material is.  With the brass proportioning valve seats you will be fighting leaks for a while.

From my experience you will regret stainless, but if you do decide to use it do this.  Put the suspension and brake system together first, with the pedal box.  Seal it all up bleed it and test it.  That way if you ruin any paint with brake leaks you can repaint easily.

If you do get brake fluid on paint, quickly use lots of soap and water to get rid of it.  It eats paint quick.

kcmash

+1 stainless is a pain and very hard to get not to leak. 

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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6 hours ago, Trevynd said:

 This is a brilliant idea!! Thank you for that 

 

 

Here is a link to the pins I used. They are magnetic and work great. 

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pin-alignment-system.html

Edited by turtle5353
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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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25 minutes ago, kcmash said:

Scrap the SS brake lines.

Stainless is very hard compared to the galvanized or whatever the original material is.  With the brass proportioning valve seats you will be fighting leaks for a while.

From my experience you will regret stainless, but if you do decide to use it do this.  Put the suspension and brake system together first, with the pedal box.  Seal it all up bleed it and test it.  That way if you ruin any paint with brake leaks you can repaint easily.

If you do get brake fluid on paint, quickly use lots of soap and water to get rid of it.  It eats paint quick.

kcmash

 Oh goodness! I’m glad you said something, funny enough, I actually have another brand new line that’s just standard galvanized steel. 
I can use that instead! I didn’t realize it was an issue!

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27 minutes ago, kcmash said:

Scrap the SS brake lines.

Stainless is very hard compared to the galvanized or whatever the original material is.  With the brass proportioning valve seats you will be fighting leaks for a while.

From my experience you will regret stainless, but if you do decide to use it do this.  Put the suspension and brake system together first, with the pedal box.  Seal it all up bleed it and test it.  That way if you ruin any paint with brake leaks you can repaint easily.

If you do get brake fluid on paint, quickly use lots of soap and water to get rid of it.  It eats paint quick.

kcmash

You know what’s interesting is that I can tell this lone had been replaced before. And the connection to the proportioning is SEIZED. That’s why the stainless line isn’t actually connected yet. 
 

I heated up the proportioning valve quite a bit in hopes to free it up and it did not work. Now I’m thinking I should prob replace that too

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