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Hang in there.  I think we have all had those days where if it could go wrong it did.  I stick welded for years and when I switched over to a mig it was a new learning experience for me.  Same principal but the different was with stick welding I was feeding the rod instead of the gun feeding it.  Took awhile to get the speed and and temp settings right.   Takes time, practice and patience but it will come.  As everyone has mentioned above make small spot welds "tacks" only.  You barely strike an arc and no more or you will burn through.  May sound funny but I found out that striking an arc for the length of time it takes me to say "Mississippi" gets me a good tack.   Just make sure you move a little in circle (wiggle) from one panel to the other and back.  Hitting dead center in between the panels will burn through more easily than starting on a panel.    Also as for grinding let the grinder do the work.  Push into the work with only enough pressure to to grind the material.  Once close to being flush grind in short burst and keep checking your work.     

Edited by Kilgon




"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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I would recommend getting the old metal much cleaner. I use a 1/4' air angle grinder with 3M  2" roloc grinding wheels in 36 grit for grinding welds down or 50 grit for cleaning old metal.  Your old m

To answer your question about phosphate, here is what I use, hopefully there is something comparable over there. It can be used on rusted or bare metal. https://www.amazon.com/Krud-Kutter-Remover

If the new welded in section is pure and blank steel, you can try to get Fertan. In general it is a rust converter, but if used on blank steel it covers the surface from getting rusty. https://ww

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If your welder will handle flux core you might try it. It sometimes seem to work better on old rusty metal. If you try it you'll have to change polarity. If you are welding outside or using a fan to blow the fumes away you loose the shield from the gas, using flux core is a must, then.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein


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Man, that's a nasty cut! But see the bright way, you have now made the bond, you have shared your blood with her steel! It can only go upwards from now on!! Oh well, at least that's how that goes in Avatar! :D

At this point I'd take a break, a beer (with the other hand) and go practice a bit more. This repair is hard, that's all. You'll get there, don't worry!  

Edited by Fabrice

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Ouch on the finger.  I did something similar and started a thread on things like that (i have done something similar and other things as well).  I did lap welds for the most part.  Easier for me (also self taught). For a first try i think that panel looks pretty darn good!

Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.

1971 convertible, H-code, Ram Air

1971 Mach I, M-code, Ram Air

1988 Bronco II

2014 F150 Supercrew

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Using a copper or brass backing plate beneath the joint helps quite a bit in controlling the weld from creating pinholes.  I agree: move side to side across the seam helps.  For floor pans and areas that are not visible and after tacking in place, you can lay a weld line (typically 2-3 inches) then stop and go elsewhere on the patch panel to minimize warping.

There are some days when you can do no wrong; then there are days when you can do no right in welding.  Ask me how I know...

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I totally agree with Midlife.  If I start burning through, I go to another area.  I'll come back and smooth out the backside a bit, and then use a piece of copper to back up the weld and then repair the hole.  Also, as Midlife said, since this is under the seat and the curves and beads nearby to take up any warpage that might occur, doing 1 inch beads and cooling won't bother anything.  Especially if you have a copper backing plate to help soak up some of the heat.  

It does take a lot of practice, so don't let the frustration get to you.  Just take a step back when you get frustrated, take a breather, maybe run some practice beads, and then take another go at it.  You'll get there.



The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, needs a lot of work.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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