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Ram Air close the inlet in the aircleaner


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Hi

Im planing to put in the Ramair kit. The snorkel that comes out on the passanger side from the aircleaner what purpose those it have. If the scoops in the hood sucks in cold air , the other one sucks in air from the engine bay.

Can I just block that port so all air coming in would come from the two air scoops in the hood. Only outside temp air would get in, good bad idea ?

 

For knowing your limit you have to pass it ::thumb::

 

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Okay the Ram Air setup is finished. I blocked the snorkel of and left the flappers open so it only sucks air from the scoops. The air cleaner filter is changed to a KN filter.  The whole uni

Looking at your pictures, I notice that you don't have shock tower braces on the car. Do you have them, just not on yet? If not, my personal suggestion would be to get a pair. The engine bay just look

if your flap solenoids are working then you can just add a vacuum solenoid like I did so flaps are open or closed at your command.     

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The flappers / scoops on the hood are only open under wide open throttle / hard acceleration when vacuum drops. 

Most of the time air will be drawn in through the snorkel

Ohio Mustang Supply

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You cant block it because it is needed when the scoops are close. However, i understand what you mean. When the scoops are open still some warm air can be sucked through the snorkel. I think the thought is that the air coming from the scoops is at higher pressure (if moving at speed) so thats where must of the air will be coming from. That said, there is no easy way unless adding a flapper that closes the snorkel when the scoops open.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I am not convinced that the RA setup does anything other than look badass.

Don't connect the scoop solenoids to any vacuum so they stay open all the time and then you can remove or block the snorkel opening.

This way your setup looks functional retaining its bad ass looks and your engine won't be sucking hot air when you aren't flooring it...

I can't hear the scoop flappers opening over my exhaust so this will be my plan when I get my new engine up and running...

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  Just my observations. The snorkel does provide warm air from the manifold when starting. Engines like warm air to atomize the gas better when starting cold. Once the engine warms up, the engine heat itself will atomize fuel, and the snorkel valve closes off the manifold and opens to the engine bay. Under normal driving conditions, the warm air from the engine bay, drawn through the snorkel, doesn't affect engine performance to a noticeable degree. You would seldom get above 2500 rpm in daily driving. I put headers on my former Mach 1 and removed the stove pipe from the manifold. I live in a cold climate, like you, and in the fall/winter/early spring, it was very "cold blooded". It did not like to run very well until the engine temp came up.   Under wide open throttle, the ram air valves open to the outside air. The cooler air creates a denser fuel/air charge (less atomization), which translates to more available power. If I remember correctly, I read somewhere many years ago, that the ram air provided an additional 11 hp, but I don't recall the elevation or air temperature that number was based on. My recommendation would be to leave the snorkel in place, and if you have headers, install the fitting that goes over the front pipe to hook the stove up.

 

Steve

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My flappers rattle with cam vacuum at idle.  I’m sure the original vacuum motors are weak, but mine kinda sit there and chatter or rattle at idle.

Yep, Ram Air is NOT a supercharger by any means.

kcmash

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Funny, now that I installed the actuators that now work I am thinking of disconnecting the vacuum line so they stay open full time, can't shake the feeling that more air is better.  When my actuators were not working I wanted very much to get them to work............ 

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I have EFI and a way to measure inlet air temperature. In the summer I have seen differences up to 20F when I open the RAM air flappers while driving. BTW, I have a normally-open vacuum solenoid switch in order to open the flappers whenever I want so I can open when driving in the highway.

Edited by tony-muscle

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I don't think that it provides any measurable performance increase, it's just meant to get cooler air (more dense) to the motor instead of drawing from a hot engine compartment.  Keeping the actuator doors connected keeps rain water/dirt from entering your air cleaner when doing normal driving.  Only when accelerating quickly or motor off will the hood doors be open.   The solenoid in the air cleaner snorkel will draw air from the top of the exhaust manifold during cold starts or from engine compartment while driving after the motor has warmed up. During hard acceleration the outside ambient air enters the air cleaner and provides some positive pressure to force the hot engine air back out through the snorkel and into the engine compartment so that you have cooler/denser air entering the carb.  I think that was the design concept but in reality it only provides minimal performance increase, just the cool factor is gained :-)

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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1 hour ago, tony-muscle said:

I have EFI and a way to measure inlet air temperature. In the summer I have seen differences up to 20F when I open the RAM air flappers while driving. BTW, I have a normally-open vacuum solenoid switch in order to open the flappers whenever I want so I can open when driving in the highway.

I like that idea, something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/VACUUM-SOLENOID-VALVE-PORT-BRACKET/dp/B07CZS3XZ8

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1 hour ago, jscott said:

You can see in this thread towards the end: https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/27836-ram-air-flaps-control/?tab=comments#comment-343402

I used Dorman's 911-604

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I thought I'd try to find something on the original article I read so many pre-internet years ago. I found this, and although it is in reference to newer cars, the basics are the same.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/understanding-mustang-air-intakes.html

Not a huge gain, but a gain none the less.

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Thanks guys

 

Im going  EFI again this time with Holley Terminator X Stealth. I have a friend that has Firebird with ramair and it was very big difference with cold air coming in all the time. It dropped some serious amount

on the MAT. So I probably will be leaving them fully open and blocking the snorkel :-) or getting a tube that extends the snorkel inlet and taking air from the front.

 

Edited by Robsweden

For knowing your limit you have to pass it ::thumb::

 

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More question does it work with 351c with Edelbrock Airgap Intake and Holley 4150 DP ? Dualsync distribuitor ? Or has the baseplate need to be modified ?

Thanks :-)

 

For knowing your limit you have to pass it ::thumb::

 

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On 12/16/2020 at 11:46 AM, kcmash said:

My flappers rattle with cam vacuum at idle.  I’m sure the original vacuum motors are weak, but mine kinda sit there and chatter or rattle at idle.

Yep, Ram Air is NOT a supercharger by any means.

kcmash

If the flaps are not working - i.e. rattle noise - there's a good chance the internal diaphragm inside the activators is shot,  Which could mean a vacuum leak.

Something to keep in mind.  

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  • 1 month later...

Okay the Ram Air setup is finished.

I blocked the snorkel of and left the flappers open so it only sucks air from the scoops. The air cleaner filter is changed to a KN filter. 

The whole unit is lowered by 1 inch to make it fit the Edelbrock Airgap intake. I manage to cut away 1 inch and squeeze in a 2 inch filter.

As a christmas gift to my self I bought the new Terminator X stealth with the DualSync dizzy. Il probably start the engine next week :-)

 

20210211_212735.jpg.078267909469d4e8c6c60dd5ee45a50e.jpg

 

20210211_212728.jpg.c08a409763300ace918391d4bb16c5d6.jpg

 

20210215_140056.thumb.jpg.14c7e2525e9319e176e699554414c035.jpg

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For knowing your limit you have to pass it ::thumb::

 

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Looking at your pictures, I notice that you don't have shock tower braces on the car. Do you have them, just not on yet? If not, my personal suggestion would be to get a pair. The engine bay just looks unfinished without them, plus they do add some strength to the body especially as you have some "upgrades". 

If they are difficult to find in Sweden, there is a set advertised on Kijiji, Ontario. If still available, I could get them for you and ship them via FedEx. Let me know.

The mods you have done look really good making it your car your way.

 

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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31 minutes ago, Stanglover said:

Looking at your pictures, I notice that you don't have shock tower braces on the car. Do you have them, just not on yet? If not, my personal suggestion would be to get a pair. The engine bay just looks unfinished without them, plus they do add some strength to the body especially as you have some "upgrades". 

If they are difficult to find in Sweden, there is a set advertised on Kijiji, Ontario. If still available, I could get them for you and ship them via FedEx. Let me know.

The mods you have done look really good making it your car your way.

 

Yes I have them , they are not just on yet :-)

For knowing your limit you have to pass it ::thumb::

 

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I see the low temp near Stockholm did not cut short your activities!! Well done!

On my 73, I have a modified copy of an original plenum, with an air filter between hood metal and plenum, not visible.
This means I need the scoops to be open all the time (works very well with my sniper). Deep down on my todo, I plan make an electric version of the flappers so they open on key on, and of course close on key off. Totally useless, but want that just for the coolness of it :D

Looking forward to see some vid of your first start next week! ;)

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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3 hours ago, Robsweden said:

Yes I have them , they are not just on yet :-)

Ah, Ok that's good. I am in contact the the guy who has them for sale. They are cheap enough, so I think I'll get them anyway.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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1 hour ago, Fabrice said:

I see the low temp near Stockholm did not cut short your activities!! Well done!

On my 73, I have a modified copy of an original plenum, with an air filter between hood metal and plenum, not visible.
This means I need the scoops to be open all the time (works very well with my sniper). Deep down on my todo, I plan make an electric version of the flappers so they open on key on, and of course close on key off. Totally useless, but want that just for the coolness of it :D

Looking forward to see some vid of your first start next week! ;)

if your flap solenoids are working then you can just add a vacuum solenoid like I did so flaps are open or closed at your command.   

 

Edited by jscott
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1 hour ago, jscott said:

if your flap solenoids are working

I don't have any on my 73, I need fabricate them, so won't use vacuum for them. I have them on my 71, will copy the shape and dimensions. 

What you did is neat! 

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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13 hours ago, Fabrice said:

I see the low temp near Stockholm did not cut short your activities!! Well done!

On my 73, I have a modified copy of an original plenum, with an air filter between hood metal and plenum, not visible.
This means I need the scoops to be open all the time (works very well with my sniper). Deep down on my todo, I plan make an electric version of the flappers so they open on key on, and of course close on key off. Totally useless, but want that just for the coolness of it :D

Looking forward to see some vid of your first start next week! ;)

Thanks , Il hope to get it running next week :-)

11 hours ago, jscott said:

if your flap solenoids are working then you can just add a vacuum solenoid like I did so flaps are open or closed at your command.   

 

That is cool way to handle the flappers, nice work.

For knowing your limit you have to pass it ::thumb::

 

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Btw does anybody knows about a font to use that is the same as the one on the Original decal ? I would like to make my own :-)

image.png.bceadecb71a9acd99d6fa8676189fb03.png

For knowing your limit you have to pass it ::thumb::

 

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