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71-72 vs. 73 Power Steering. Educate me please.


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So 71/72 has the long power steering hose that loops up and over the drivers side brace. The 73 has a shorter hose that does not. Why? What changed that allowed for the shorter hose? Is one better than the other? I've had to change the hoses once, and may need to again as the new one seems to have possibly developed a leak. 

Edited by Big Red Mach 1

Chris -  Born in '73 - Drive a '73 / Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8 / 1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

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Chris, much has been discussed on this topic recently. Basically the long hose was used up to 05/01/72, then changed to the short HP hose. You can use either if you wanted on any year. No-one really seems to know why the long hose was used. Some say for more fluid cooling, others say to help stop vibrations or thumping in the system. You car would have had the short HP hose.

If it is leaking at the union, get yourself a set of flare Crow foot wrenches and a long 3/8" extension, about 18" so you can work from the top. There is not enough room below to get the fittings tight enough to seal. A 1/4 turn makes all the difference.

Edited by Stanglover
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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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3 hours ago, Stanglover said:

Chris, much has been discussed on this topic recently. Basically the long hose was used up to 05/01/72, then changed to the short HP hose. You can use either if you wanted on any year. No-one really seems to know why the long hose was used. Some say for more fluid cooling, others say to help stop vibrations or thumping in the system. You car would have had the short HP hose.

If it is leaking at the union, get yourself a set of flare Crow foot wrenches and a long 3/8" extension, about 18" so you can work from the top. There is not enough room below to get the fittings tight enough to seal. A 1/4 turn makes all the difference.

Thanks Geoff. I've got those wrenches. I'll try giving the fittings another shot. Would be a ton easier without that boat anchor of an A/C compressor sitting right above it. LOL

Chris -  Born in '73 - Drive a '73 / Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8 / 1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

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13 hours ago, Big Red Mach 1 said:

Thanks Geoff. I've got those wrenches. I'll try giving the fittings another shot. Would be a ton easier without that boat anchor of an A/C compressor sitting right above it. LOL

You didn't say where it was leaking. I assumed it was the PS box union which is very hard to get at from underneath. I have had no problem tightening the pump fitting, so maybe check the connection for damage.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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No. Mine is leaking at the back of the pump. I'm pretty darn sure it's tight, and it's probably the rear seal. I bought a rebuild kit for it. Just have not looked too closely at it yet. Other priorities, but it's next on the list. Figured while I was at it I would enquire about the different hose lengths, as I've never heard anyone say definitively why the change was made. To my knowledge, all other parts are the same (pump,box, etc)so was just curious as to why a longer hose was needed before, and a shorter hose all of the sudden became okay to use with the same parts and no other changes. 

Chris -  Born in '73 - Drive a '73 / Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8 / 1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

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1 hour ago, Big Red Mach 1 said:

No. Mine is leaking at the back of the pump. I'm pretty darn sure it's tight, and it's probably the rear seal. I bought a rebuild kit for it. Just have not looked too closely at it yet. Other priorities, but it's next on the list. Figured while I was at it I would enquire about the different hose lengths, as I've never heard anyone say definitively why the change was made. To my knowledge, all other parts are the same (pump,box, etc)so was just curious as to why a longer hose was needed before, and a shorter hose all of the sudden became okay to use with the same parts and no other changes. 

Ah, I see. Pump seal not a hose leak per se. Glad you have it clear in your mind now. 

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I have not fully investigated yet to see if it's the hose fitting leaking down onto the connection at the back of the pump making it look like it's that pump seal or not. That crimped hose fitting sits right above it.  

Chris -  Born in '73 - Drive a '73 / Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8 / 1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

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13 hours ago, Big Red Mach 1 said:

I have not fully investigated yet to see if it's the hose fitting leaking down onto the connection at the back of the pump making it look like it's that pump seal or not. That crimped hose fitting sits right above it.  

 I HATE leaks, any leaks! A week ago, it was a warm day so I decided to fire up the old girl, back it out the garage to let her run for a few minutes. What did I find underneath where the oil pan was, drips of oil. I think it is just some of the pan bolts have loosened. Just another job on the list of "thing to do" before summer.

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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It may sound like overkill but, I use an inch pound torque wrench to tighten to spec. Start with bolts in the middle of the pan, alternate left to right working towards the ends of the pan. It works for me. Chuck

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21 minutes ago, Big Red Mach 1 said:

I hate leaks of any kind also. Drives me absolutely up the wall. LOL

 

And when you have one figured out, another one pops up :classic_angry:

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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56 minutes ago, c9zx said:

It may sound like overkill but, I use an inch pound torque wrench to tighten to spec. Start with bolts in the middle of the pan, alternate left to right working towards the ends of the pan. It works for me. Chuck

Thanks Chuck, I'll get "technical" this time. Good suggestion to be honest.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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2 hours ago, c9zx said:

It may sound like overkill but, I use an inch pound torque wrench to tighten to spec. Start with bolts in the middle of the pan, alternate left to right working towards the ends of the pan. It works for me. Chuck

I agree completely, I always use an inch-pound torque wrench on all soft gasket fasteners. Too easy to overtighten when the spec calls for 5 or 11 foot-pounds of torque (most foot-pound torque wrenches aren't accurate at these low readings), bending the flanges and smashing or cracking the gaskets. Just multiply the foot-pound values by 12 to get  inch-pounds. Don't know what they're not published as inch-pounds to start with.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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30 minutes ago, Don C said:

I agree completely, I always use an inch-pound torque wrench on all soft gasket fasteners. Too easy to overtighten when the spec calls for 5 or 11 foot-pounds of torque (most foot-pound torque wrenches aren't accurate at these low readings), bending the flanges and smashing or cracking the gaskets. Just multiply the foot-pound values by 12 to get  inch-pounds. Don't know what they're not published as inch-pounds to start with.

 Don, you're absolutely correct. I do usually use an inch/pound T/ wrench on valve covers and as you say, soft gaskets in general. However, I don't believe that guarantees these fasteners won't loosen over time. As for why torque values get published in Ft/lbs at such low values is beyond me too, but we see it all the time. Just recently when I installed the Hayden fan clutch and Derale 18" fan, the Hayden instructions call for 15-18ft/lbs or 20-24N.m on 5/16-18 bolts. I used 22N.m  (or 264 In/lbs) i.e. in the middle of the spec. Even with inch/pound values, unless you have a really good (expensive) in/lb torque wrench, it is still only an approximation.

Sorry Chris, we're getting a bit off topic now.

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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