Auto choke power?

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

nursieee

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2019
Messages
68
Reaction score
2
Location
Sweden
My Car
Ford Mustang Fastback Mach 1 1973
According to wiring diagram there should be a black and white cable from alternator to auto choke. in my car the cable to auto choke is red and orange hash. and the goes into a "glove" where another red-orange hash goes to a device that i dont know what it is. What is it at the picture?

could i just connect a cable between auto choke and alternator instead and leave the other wire unconnected?

1618516020409.jpg

 
That's the throttle position solenoid, also called the anti-diesel solenoid. The automatic choke is on the other side of the carburetor.

The reason Ford connected the automatic choke to the stator terminal on the alternator is because the only time you get voltage to the choke is when the engine is running. The red/yellow hash wire is a key on wire and provides 12 volts when the key is in the run position.

 
You think i should leave it like that or should i connect it according the original wiring diagram? I measured about 8 v from the output from the flatpin of my alternator.

 
Because you have the original Ford carburetor, and because the heating element in the choke is designed for the lower voltage of the stator output, I would connect it to the stator terminal.

 
Had a similar issue.  After setting for a couple of weeks the gas would drain out so the car

was hard to start.  Had the choke connected to solenoid so it was warming as soon as I turned

the key.  When the gas reached the bowls the choke was already opening making it hard to start.

So we connected it to the stator, no problem since.  Also put a check valve in line.

mike

 
I believe that raises the idle a bit when you turn the A/C on.  Exact name, I am not sure.
As Don C said,, throttle position solenoid or anti-diesel solenoid. It has no relation to air conditioning at all. The factory used it to prevent run on with the greater idle throttle openings required with the emissions systems of the time. The curb idle was set by adjusting the solenoid slider bracket with it energized. There was also a second, lower idle setting set by the idle screw on the carb, with the solenoid disconnected. When the key was turned off, the solenoid would retract, snapping the throttle closed to the lower idle setting. 

According to wiring diagram there should be a black and white cable from alternator to auto choke. in my car the cable to auto choke is red and orange hash. and the goes into a "glove" where another red-orange hash goes to a device that i dont know what it is. What is it at the picture?

could i just connect a cable between auto choke and alternator instead and leave the other wire unconnected?


Hook it up according to the factory wiring diagram. 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Had a similar issue.  After setting for a couple of weeks the gas would drain out so the car

was hard to start.  Had the choke connected to solenoid so it was warming as soon as I turned

the key.  When the gas reached the bowls the choke was already opening making it hard to start.

So we connected it to the stator, no problem since.  Also put a check valve in line.

mike
My car starts very easy, ive had it off for about 2 years, and it started at once the other day when i got things in order so i could test it..no probs at all so far... but ill connect it according the original wiring diagram soon, gotta put steering wheel on first and some other things. Thanks so far guys!!!

 
Back
Top