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Stalling cuts out instantly.


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Hello forum. I just started driving my 1971 429cj-r/4sp for the season. Some stressful stuff happened. Total instant flameout a few times while driving...and a couple of times while idling. The car has never done this before. The car has been standing for almost a year..with battery disconnected. New fuel was filled recently.

Battery is new. Charging seems ok (14.3v). All voltages seem normal. Fuel filter for Rochester carb changed. Fuel pump works fine. I am  stumped......

Were all 1971 429cj-r/4sp cars dual advance? See picture of my engine.....

I need some good advice as to what is going on. Thanks....

 

 

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Edited by Anderslober
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How long does it take for you to get it started after it quits? Do you have to do anything different to get it started?

I suspect it's an electrical issue. Do you have the original points ignition?

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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After it stalls......it cranks fine and eventually can be started.

It is not the original points ignition. It is electronic now....I will get a photo of it tomorrow.

I suspect an electric issue too.....but what could cause this? Bad starter solenoid? Voltage regulator? Any ideas welcome👍

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Could an overheated sparkplug wire cause this issue? Spark plug wire number 1 was basically lying on the exhaust manifold held down on it by a heater hose......

Edited by Anderslober
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Hi 

Flameouts = timing to me ......did the flames come out of the ass or the nostrils ?   (Exhaust or Carb) 

If kept idle for ages - with ambient temps and humidity going up and down 
(I've had this) you could have condensation actually inside the distributor cap - any moisture in there and you can get all sorts of whacky events. 

Does it sound like you have all cylinders ?- or is it lumpy ? ...could be ignition cables need renewing - and Spark plugs 

I know nothing of Rochesters - does it have a choke issue ? Some carbs have vacuum choke -- vacuum hoses don't like being long time ornaments - and go loose, sloppy, perish and leak air this would also kick your timing advance system out of whack 
(loads of old timers in here, their hoses drooped long ago and dont work anymore):whistling: 

 

 

 

Edited by 1sostatic

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Enjoy's searching out 71-73 history

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Plug wire if melted could cause a miss but wouldn't make the engine die.   When you say it will eventually started again is it after the engine cools down? It could be a bad voltage regulator but I doubt it.  If it won't start until the engine cools down the it could be a case of vapor lock or some other component under the hood that is being affected by the heat.  This would also make the distributor and coil a suspect in that case.   Have you also checked the engine coolant to make sure it is full and the engine isn't running hot?

Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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Posted (edited)

Coolant level is fine. Oil level is perfect. Distributor cap is totally dry. Car is stored in doors.

Spark plug wires and spark plugs are intact and not damaged. The engine runs absolutely normal and nicely....until the shut down.

The car cuts out even when ‘cold’. About 2-3 minutes after start up the first time. The car is startable even when hot.

I dont think its vapor lock, because of the way it shuts down......just shuts down instantly...no sputtering.

Can/could  a defective voltage regulator cause this type of problem? Immediate shut down? Very strange this.

Regarding ‘flameouts’...no flames either way....carb or exhaust. Flameout in aviation speak means just that.....no ‘flames’ (in turbine) and engine shuts down. Same happens here.....’flame=spark instantly disappears and engine shuts down.

 

Edited by Anderslober
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Were all 1971 429cj-r/4sp cars dual point distributors? What is the best Pertronix kit for my car? It is not a Pertronix electronic ignition in there atm.....some other brand.

Could defective electronic ignition cause my problem?

 

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6 hours ago, Anderslober said:

Were all 1971 429cj-r/4sp cars dual point distributors? What is the best Pertronix kit for my car? It is not a Pertronix electronic ignition in there atm.....some other brand.

Could defective electronic ignition cause my problem?

 

 

Are all the wires going to the right cylinder numbers ? 

Edited by 1sostatic

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Enjoy's searching out 71-73 history

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I've had a similar issue before. Turned out to be the positive wire on the ignition coil was loose and would briefly lose contact from the terminal when you got on the gas and the engine bucked.

 

I'd definitely check your wiring connections on your coil and make sure they're firmly connected/crimped to rule that out, because as others have said this sounds like an ignition issue.

Plain Jane | 1971 F Code Coupe 302/C4 Automatic

Goin' to Town Rig | 1971 F100 Ranger XLT LWB 390FE/C6 Automatic

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10 hours ago, Anderslober said:

What is the best Pertronix kit for my car?

If of any help, I've restored my 429CJ original Autolite dist and installed a pertronix in it. All detailed in this page and the one before.

As about your prob, I also think it's ignition. Since it restarts and runs, before touch/search everywhere, I would look at the 12v feed, make sure its not loose or corroded.
The following tip might sound silly and you might dismiss this idea but.. DO CHECK your key drum at the column! This thing can create exactly the kind of situation that you have. Speaking by experience here ;) You can easy test by simply bypassing the contact and see if you get the same issue.
 

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Posted (edited)

SOME VERY GOOD NEWS!! I worked on the beast today. Changed the coil...Acdelco 505....sorry..problem persisted. I then took out the Mallory Unilite (infrared !!) ignition system and put in a basic Pertronix I. The car fired up. Sounded completely normal. Oil pressure, temp and amps came up! I drove the car for a good half-hour....different rpms!...hehe.....not a stutter, stumble or squeak!

I hope this was it! The Mallory Unilite system......anybody here have that system? Please indicate if you have had problems with it.

I am soooooooooo happy, that I got it running reliably again. I am attending a small car show later today......fingers crossed that everything works ok!👍🍻

 

Edited by Anderslober
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43 minutes ago, Anderslober said:

SOME VERY GOOD NEWS!! I worked on the beast today. Changed the coil...Acdelco 505....sorry..problem persisted. I then took out the Mallory Unilite (infrared !!) ignition system and put in a basic Pertronix I. The car fired up. Sounded completely normal. Oil pressure, temp and amps came up! I drove the car for a good half-hour....different rpms!...hehe.....not a stutter, stumble or squeak!

I hope this was it! The Mallory Unilite system......anybody here have that system? Please indicate if you have had problems with it.

I am soooooooooo happy, that I got it running reliably again. I am attending a small car show later today......fingers crossed that everything works ok!👍🍻

 

Sounds like you got it fixed.  Not for sure but when I was looking at the pictures of you engine I notice that it looks like your fan belt is flipped over. If that is the way it is suppose to be I never seen one with the cogs on the outside.

Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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4 hours ago, Anderslober said:

The fan belt is on correctly. Just the type, I guess.

I drove to the small car show. Ran smoothly!👍😀

Here is a picture from show👇
 

 

 

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Learn something new everyday.  Glad to hear it's running good now.  Just out of curiosity do you leave the hood down during your shows or cruise-ins?  Over here at all the cruise-ins the hoods are open and at the car shows the hoods and trunks are open also.

Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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woohoo!

The Pertronix 1 is a great thingy. Simple, zero maintenance and reliable. Work great in combo with Holley sniper too.
Btw, back in the early 90's, I know that my 429 with rochester could do 1 on 1 easy if the right pedal was placed in the deeper position.
My 351c with holley carb could also be thirsty, 20-25 liters was @normal@.
With that combo, now after a few hundred miles with it, I see now, it is more 10-15.
I dunno your fuel price up north, but might be interesting for you if originality is not a concern. Not to mention that you get perfect modern response in any rpm range and no cold starts issues anymore. Oh and you can stay in garage without dying within the next 3 minutes :D

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Kilgon.....hood was opened 22sec after the photo!🤠👍 I did three longish drives yesterday......the car ran smoothly all the way!🍻

That Mallory Unilite system definitely had me ‘conundrummed’....I just didnt believe it could be that. Until I read it was a ‘infra red light system’........that changed my thinkin’ completely.

I still have the original dual point distributor. I will install a Pertronix 1281DV in the distributor and put it back in the car.

The basic Pertronix I system is a FINE little thing indeed. So simple, so genius!

 

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If you don't know...leaving the key on and the ignition energized but the car not running can burn up a Pertronix 1 and 2, not the 3, I think. I run a Pertronix (ignitor and coil) in my Opel GT. I have encountered bad magnet rings before while trying to set up a friends Opel. Caused a missfire/rough running issue that drove me nuts until on a whim I swapped mine into it and it ran great. It is a good idea to carry a second Pertronix (and confirm it is good!).

I had a similar problem with my old 70 fastback. Intermittent sudden shutdown. Turned out the wire to the coil was a little loose. Just like Galucha said.

Edited by detritusmaximus
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