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Rear spoiler accident last night


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Posted (edited)

So I was working with my steering pump last night. I had the car a couple inches up in the lift so I could turn the wheels to purge the system. Then I cranked the engine for couple seconds. To do that I took it out of gear and my parking brake was not all the way down. So when I lowered the car it started going backwards towards the garage door. I was able to slow it down but since the car sits on top of a few boards it had too much momentum to stop it:classic_angry:. The rear hit the garage door and since the spoiler is the further back point, it smashed against the door (whoever installed the spoiler back then did it to far back). The spoiler bracket bent and the trunk lid cracked and dented. Obviously there was some rust in this area which made it weaker.

Now I have to fix it:classic_angry:. I see that the brackets are reproduced. I have to get one of those and paint it argent. Then I have to flatten the trunk lid and since it cracked, I will have to fix/weld the sheet metal. It doesn't need to be perfect, but good enough from couple feet out. I then have to match the paint. I will try myself and if I am not happy I will try finding a shop. Any other ideas?

The spoiler brackets look plastic. Could they be bent back? What kind of paint is it recommended for these brackets? Do I need to cut the ribbing on the inside of the trunk to have access to the sheetmetal?

Edited by tony-muscle
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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Pictures:

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20210517_234434.jpg

20210517_234445.jpg

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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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OUCH, That hurts. 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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:classic_blink::classic_unsure:

Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.

1971 convertible, H-code, Ram Air

1971 Mach I, M-code, Ram Air

1972 Mexican GT-351

1988 Bronco II

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Posted (edited)

oooh that's so sh... The kind of things that would make me mad for days!

If you repair it, I'd say patch the rusty weak distorted part (most rear) and spoon the rest flat. At this location you might be able to use the inner frame to push it gently back with flat wood.
There are not much welds there, you could try with these suction dents puller kits too.

Good luck Tony!

edit: I think I recall when I've repaired mine that its only glued there. the reinforcement has prolly been pushed back up.
The plastic brackets can be easy bended back in a vice slowly with a heat gun. Sanding, primer and grey. easy pizzy and the least of your problem.
Looking at the picts again, as said, you need patch as the metal is too corroded and likely very thin there hence why it bursted. Now that it needs to come off as no matter what you will need to paint the entire top, I would consider de-rust it entirely after the metal work as there is likely more hidden than you might think. Or buy a repop and be done fast, so you don't miss the nice days coming up.

Edited by Fabrice
  • Like 1

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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4 hours ago, Fabrice said:

oooh that's so sh... The kind of things that would make me mad for days!

If you repair it, I'd say patch the rusty weak distorted part (most rear) and spoon the rest flat. At this location you might be able to use the inner frame to push it gently back with flat wood.
There are not much welds there, you could try with these suction dents puller kits too.

Good luck Tony!

edit: I think I recall when I've repaired mine that its only glued there. the reinforcement has prolly been pushed back up.
The plastic brackets can be easy bended back in a vice slowly with a heat gun. Sanding, primer and grey. easy pizzy and the least of your problem.
Looking at the picts again, as said, you need patch as the metal is too corroded and likely very thin there hence why it bursted. Now that it needs to come off as no matter what you will need to paint the entire top, I would consider de-rust it entirely after the metal work as there is likely more hidden than you might think. Or buy a repop and be done fast, so you don't miss the nice days coming up.

Good idea about a repop trunk lid. I wonder how these fit. In any case, i think I will try to fix it myself and if it looks ugly I will go with that as plan B. If not for the challenge and learning experience. However, I won't do it until the winter. In the mean time I will try to flatten it as much as I can and seal it with silicon to make it through the summer. It will be nice to find the brackets already painted argent. As I try to flatten the bracket it most likely will peel the paint.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Posted (edited)

Tony, that really sucks man! I think I'd be on the hunt for a good original trunk before going to repops. There is/was a guy on Kijiji in Ontario advertising a solid trunk lid. No idea if he still has it or if he'd ship it as the border will still be closed for a while yet. Might be worth looking, or perhaps I might be able to look into it for you and if it's ok, arrange to get it to you later in the year. Just a thought.

https://www.kijiji.ca

 

Edited by Stanglover
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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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That sucks big time.  I feel your pain from just looking at the pictures. If you could call it a bright side at least now you will be able to relocate the spoiler.  

Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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Oh man, Tony, that sucks! I feel sorry for you... 

That moment watching your own car moving by itself backwards was surely a heartattack! 

I see there plenty of work for you as the trunk lid is rusted in its inner structure and to struggle with it through the brazes wouldn't not be that easy and time consuming. 

What I would do: 

Find a good used trunk lid from one of our vendors or from any guy in your region, flatten it out, sanding, paint match, done. They shouldn't cost that much and you don't have to put that many hours in. 

For the spoiler stands, they are of some sort of cast iron, I would buy some new ones (they aren't expensive), sand them lightly with a soft pad and paint them with argent from a spray can. Done. This way I did it on mine and on my fathers Stang, fast and good looking. 

That's just my opinion on that what I see from your pictures... 

Better to do it once right than you already know now you have to do it twice :thumb:

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Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Timachone is right, the pedestals are a pot metal, they DO crack when trying to bend them back. The re-pop pedestals are nice, I have a pair waiting for my resto. Good luck finding an original lid, but that IS the way to go. But a re-pop may work as well, but I would relocate the spoiler while you are at it.

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Posted (edited)

Brings back some bad memories... In 1994, I just had my J Code Mach freshly painted in its original Light Pewter Metallic. I only had a single car garage at the time and there was a work bench at the back with a bench vice installed. You know where this is going... To fit the car in the garage, I had to back it in and make sure the vice was always in the closed position. Backing the car in I hear "crunch", yep backed right into the vice and dented the rear deck lid. I had left it open 4". "Oh fudge" is putting it lightly, concerning my reaction at the time. Hope your repair goes smoothly!

Edited by 7173Vert
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"Yes dear", has kept me in the hobby a long time...

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, timachone said:

Oh man, Tony, that sucks! I feel sorry for you... 

That moment watching your own car moving by itself backwards was surely a heartattack! 

I see there plenty of work for you as the trunk lid is rusted in its inner structure and to struggle with it through the brazes wouldn't not be that easy and time consuming. 

What I would do: 

Find a good used trunk lid from one of our vendors or from any guy in your region, flatten it out, sanding, paint match, done. They shouldn't cost that much and you don't have to put that many hours in. 

For the spoiler stands, they are of some sort of cast iron, I would buy some new ones (they aren't expensive), sand them lightly with a soft pad and paint them with argent from a spray can. Done. This way I did it on mine and on my fathers Stang, fast and good looking. 

That's just my opinion on that what I see from your pictures... 

Better to do it once right than you already know now you have to do it twice :thumb:

Thanks. I think this looks like the way to go.

Last night I put a lot of silicone around the pedestal and cracks to avoid water to intrude. I know it is not pretty but I don't want to work on it right now. I can start working on a trunk lid on the side and just replace when ready. To paint the trunk lid, do you think I can do that from a spray bottle, or better take it to a shop?

PS (Edit): I just realized that I would have to match the stipe and "Mach 1" logo on the trunk which I have no idea how so I will have to send that out to a shop.

Edited by tony-muscle

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Tony, 

since it is a Metallic color and you have to paint match it to the other body panels it would be too much of a risk that it ain't matches the car. So I would give it a good, experienced shop for it. That said, with good  quality material and nozzle spray cans with 2-stage clear it could be done, the area isn't that big to cover. But you have always the risk that it is almost perfect and then the can have a spit at the end of your work and bingo... I use spray cans only on smaller areas or not as flat things than a body panel, like all the suspension and brake parts, spoilers, engine and engine parts, bolts, screws... But for all outer body panels I wouldn't do that. It is too risky that something will go wrong in color, appearance and structure. So I prefer for body panels ever a paint gun! 

With the spray can I would only paint your spoiler and the pedestials :thumb:

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Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Posted (edited)

Tony,

If you find a decent trunk lid and know the color code of your paint, I can spray it and ship it back to you if you want.  You cover shipping costs and material, labor is on me.  I know it maybe risky shipping a painted part and could be expensive but if you dont want to pay an actual shop, I would be more than willing to help a guy out. I feel your pain, believe me!!   Like others have said, it may not be a perfect match but it would be darn close if you know the paint code of your color.  Only way to make sure you get it perfect would be to do a blend down onto the quarter panels and then you would need to re-clear all that area and the roof. Alot of work!  As far as the Mach 1 and stripes those are just stickers in argent and should be pretty easy to match. Worse case scenario just put new stickers on the fender extensions too and they will match perfect. Thats something you could do yourself. They are pretty easy to do and have a good bit of forgiveness if you install them with soapy water. Let me know if you think costs would work out for you to ship me a trunk lid to shoot. Whatever you decide, good luck!  Im sure it will be good as new in no time. 

Also just a thought, turn it in to your insurance. Even with a $500 deductible you might be better off especially if they pay for a panel blend!  

Edited by turtle5353
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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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1 hour ago, tony-muscle said:

Thanks. I think this looks like the way to go.

Last night I put a lot of silicone around the pedestal and cracks to avoid water to intrude. I know it is not pretty but I don't want to work on it right now. I can start working on a trunk lid on the side and just replace when ready. To paint the trunk lid, do you think I can do that from a spray bottle, or better take it to a shop?

PS (Edit): I just realized that I would have to match the stipe and "Mach 1" logo on the trunk which I have no idea how so I will have to send that out to a shop.

Perhaps Graphics Express in Florida has the trunk stripe and Mach 1 decal to match. Decals are not too hard to put on, Graphics Express will give you full instructions.

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I'm with Tim on this: no bottle spray! Ok for aftershave, not for car body paint! :D

Pity you're that far away, I'd gladly spray it for you too. To find a good original lid however, you're on the right side of the pond!
A good straight original should not be that hard to locate in the US, tho keep in mind they are rust traps, even if looking fine on the outside. You won't believe the amount of rust that is hidden in the "double" space. So if you buy from a distance ask some picts taken with light from the opening inside or at least ask for an honest estimation of the rust inside.

UV's have done their thing and even with the right serial/original paint ref (which might not even be the one sprayed), chances of a perfect match are low. I'd trust more an experienced painter and ask him to spray/blend without any ref and do it by eye than use a ref. 
The spoiler might save the day a bit here (after it ruined it) as it creates a darker area and even if a tad off colour, that should help visually the blending if there was some diff. So don't worry too much about having a lid and a car ;)

@Omie01 the pedestals are a pot metal, they DO crack when trying to bend them back.
Yes, you have 1 on 2 chance it goes ok. Mainly made of zinc, it's the added other metals that will decide the chances of success the most. If lead or tin are the ones used you're good, but if aluminium or even copper are in the game in relatively large ratio, their melting points are different and bam: crack!
I have corrected last year one scoop and a rear extension with torch while bending them back. It went well, nothing else needed be done on the scoop and the extension needed almost no filler to be back in shape. However the distortions were less than on Tony's pedestals. They are lost if nothing is done anyway, so, I'd heat them well with a torch and in a vice, very slowly push them back and hope for the best.

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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NPD sells a pretty good repro spoiler with pedestals and hardware - obviously it'll need painted, but I would be shocked if anyone could salvage those pedastals. I don't know if anyone sells just the pedestal.

Black 1971 Mach 1

351C/FMX/TrickFlow Heads/Lunati Retro Roller Conversion

Classic Auto AC, Manual Front Discs, Upgraded Springs/Shocks/Close-Ratio Steering

 

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9 hours ago, turtle5353 said:

Tony,

If you find a decent trunk lid and know the color code of your paint, I can spray it and ship it back to you if you want.  You cover shipping costs and material, labor is on me.  I know it maybe risky shipping a painted part and could be expensive but if you dont want to pay an actual shop, I would be more than willing to help a guy out. I feel your pain, believe me!!   Like others have said, it may not be a perfect match but it would be darn close if you know the paint code of your color.  Only way to make sure you get it perfect would be to do a blend down onto the quarter panels and then you would need to re-clear all that area and the roof. Alot of work!  As far as the Mach 1 and stripes those are just stickers in argent and should be pretty easy to match. Worse case scenario just put new stickers on the fender extensions too and they will match perfect. Thats something you could do yourself. They are pretty easy to do and have a good bit of forgiveness if you install them with soapy water. Let me know if you think costs would work out for you to ship me a trunk lid to shoot. Whatever you decide, good luck!  Im sure it will be good as new in no time. 

Also just a thought, turn it in to your insurance. Even with a $500 deductible you might be better off especially if they pay for a panel blend!  

Thanks for the offer, that's very nice of you. I need to think about my options. There is a custom shop nearby that has a body shop. The nice thing is that I can give them the lid without giving them the whole car. Thank you for the insurance idea. I didn't even think about it. I don't even remember what kind of deductible I have. I will research that.

I think I have a lot of options and even more since this is not a show queen.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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4 hours ago, Stanglover said:

Tempting. How much will it be to ship from Canada? 

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

Tempting. How much will it be to ship from Canada? 

How long is a piece of string! That depends on who ships it. I personally would NOT use UPS. I have a FedEx account and have found them to be more reasonable. You need size and weight to get a quote. As for import taxes and fees into the US, I can't say. One thing though, make sure to ship GROUND ECCONNOY, or they will air freight it. I bought a large item last year from the US, stipulated ground shipping, but they air freighted it anyway. I got it in two days, but I had to call FedEx to get the bill adjusted.

If you're serious about this one, and the guy still has it, I may be able to help out.

Edited by Stanglover

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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