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Distributor gear roll pin. Need some expert guidance.


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6 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

And run the drill at the lower speed if it has a speed selector. If not the drill may smoke.

Good point Tony. :thumb:

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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9 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

And run the drill at the lower sleed if it has a speed selector. If not the drill may smoke.

Depends on the drill.  Most of them these days have little fans inside that are directly spun by the motor.  The faster you run the motor, the more air they pull through to cool them off.  And drills that have electronics inside like brushless motors as mosfets also have thermal sensors and will cut themselves off before they overheat and start burning up the electric bits.  If you run these drills slower, you'll trip the thermal cutoff sooner than if you ran it wide open.

I do think you're right about if you pulled out the corded craftsman drill you got from your great grandpappy.

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Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, giantpune said:

Depends on the drill.  Most of them these days have little fans inside that are directly spun by the motor.  The faster you run the motor, the more air they pull through to cool them off.  And drills that have electronics inside like brushless motors as mosfets also have thermal sensors and will cut themselves off before they overheat and start burning up the electric bits.  If you run these drills slower, you'll trip the thermal cutoff sooner than if you ran it wide open.

I do think you're right about if you pulled out the corded craftsman drill you got from your great grandpappy.

I am just sharing my recent experience. I have a fairly new cordless DeWalt. The first time I run the oil pump it was at high speed and after a few seconds it smoked - it didn't burn because I was able to use it after a few seconds and still today. At low speed I was able to achieve 80 psi of pressure with no problem.

Edited by tony-muscle
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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 3 weeks later...

We use to put Chevy dizzy i a Ford just change gear and make the housing fit and put it in.
I vote to putting two roll pins in. Higher or lower at 90 deg. I was tool & die maker so I have the tools and access to a Bridgeport mill also. The screen on the oil pick up would stop any piece of the roll pin I think. And 351  does not have the big hole like 289 & 302 if the screen gets clogged. Pulling and engine is noting faster than fighting to get the pan off in the car.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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+1 on pulling the engine. I've pulled the pan with the engine in a couple of times on other vehicles. Good exercise in busting knuckles and frustration. Lowering the pan, dropping the oil pump, jacking the engine up, trying to get the gasket to stay in place while you wiggle the pan back in, getting the oil pump back in place and properly tightened (torqued), oil dripping on you and running down your arms into your arm pits. Doesn't take long to pull the engine, good time to freshen up the paint on it.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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I'm glad you got it fixed. A very good looking car.If you like the sound you could install some old fashioned cutouts. Chuck

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Glad you got it fixed and it went well.  Just curious but did you figure what those two pieces of metal came from.

Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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The two broken metal pieces I question look like part of the oil control ring spacer between the oil rings on a piston.  I figure it’s either a one time break or something that will cause a failure eventually,  but I am not going to tear the engine down to look for the source.  I am going to leave it together.

Now for the pain in the keester!  I went to the muffler shop Friday.  They could not install the new mufflers because they don’t have mufflers with the brackets welded on for the original style hangers.

So I call the maker of my exhaust system to get the correct mufflers and he can’t help me because his source for the brackets is behind on deliveries.  So I try checking the major parts houses and none of them have the staff to pick up a phone and answer my questions.

I mean really.  Now I can’t even buy mufflers to fit the OEM style hangers for our car.  I am so sick of not being able to get anything done easily anymore.  I mean really, I am off the road because no one has oem style mufflers?

Sick of it….

kcmash

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My muffler shop just welded my original hangers back on after cutting them off the old ones. If you still have your hangers on the old ones, have them cut off and reused. New would be nice, but..........

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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When at the small local, highly rated shop (even the local Ford Dealership uses them) the first thing I asked was if they could cut them off and weld them on the new mufflers.  The first reaction was ‘no’.  I assume they don’t have air chisels and spot weld drillers there.  They are a chop saw, flange, bend and weld shop.  I am afraid to cut them off myself because I can’t drive it to the shop then.

 Maybe I just buy mufflers,  cut and weld the brackets on the new ones, then install myself.

kcmash

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3 hours ago, kcmash said:

I am afraid to cut them off myself because I can’t drive it to the shop then.

I don't follow you here.

When I put my car together, I dropped in a motor and some headers and then clamped on some 3" turndowns to the end of the headers and drove it around like that for a week till I could get it to the muffler shop.  One of the best weeks of my life.  :D

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Posted (edited)

I tried doing the mufflers myself.  I now have a Wednesday appointment…..

Today I am so pucking  fissed at the next pain in my a$$.  For some reason, the fuel sending unit plug started falling off on any drive, making the gas register empty on the gage.  I would reconnect, then it falls off the next time I drive it.  Usually when I get to 3rd gear or so.  Anyway, I crawl under the car to try putting a slight bend to one pin on the reproduction sending unit.  I center the plug, push it on, and one of the pins falls off the friggin sending unit.

I assume the best thing to do is drain the tank and put my Ford unit back in.  I see no options for an electrically conductive epoxy, and I don’t dare try a 3 hand solder operation on a gas tank.  If it’s full, it won’t get hot enough for the pin to solder, if it is empty the risk of explosion is too high.

Any good suggestions on how to proceed?  Any clever ideas for getting the tank drained?

kcmash

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2C65B864-8544-429B-97E5-0CF5706FEE3C.jpeg

Edited by kcmash
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IF you can get it down to a 1/4 full, 5 gallons, you can used two jacks to raise the left side high enough to get the sender out. One jack will kind of twist the car. Use jack stands as well of course. This is how I did my sender adjustment after putting in the new tank. I used the Dorman 692232 sender with zero issues so far.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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7 hours ago, Stanglover said:

IF you can get it down to a 1/4 full, 5 gallons, you can used two jacks to raise the left side high enough to get the sender out. One jack will kind of twist the car. Use jack stands as well of course. This is how I did my sender adjustment after putting in the new tank. I used the Dorman 692232 sender with zero issues so far.

By chance, you mentioned that in another thread, Geoff: how did you check your sender after installment? Fill it with 5 gallons and see if it show 1/4 full? 

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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6 hours ago, timachone said:

By chance, you mentioned that in another thread, Geoff: how did you check your sender after installment? Fill it with 5 gallons and see if it show 1/4 full? 

Well it was 19 liters actually which equals 5 US gallons and yes as the tank is a 20 US gallon tank, it's the last quarter that's the most important (so you don't unexpectedly run out!!)

It's a while ago now, but if I remember, I needed to adjust the float arm by bending it upward slightly. I don't really understand the Ohms thing to adjust by resistance, so it's trial and error I'm afraid. It IS a PITA to have to raise and lower the car a couple of time I'll agree, but it worked out. Whether you need adjust the arm up or down will depend on the initial reading. It may well be right strait out of the box. Again if I remember, mine read high @ 1/4 tank. Hope that helps.

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Yes, Geoff, that helps. I hope mine will read ok out of the box, though :biggrin: 

Btw: how is the situation up there in Canada? I heard it is unusual hot in there... Hope, you come through the heat without any damage - asked Ken about it as well! 

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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5 hours ago, timachone said:

Yes, Geoff, that helps. I hope mine will read ok out of the box, though :biggrin: 

Btw: how is the situation up there in Canada? I heard it is unusual hot in there... Hope, you come through the heat without any damage - asked Ken about it as well! 

Tim, glad that is a help for you and I hope, kcmash as well, not heard from him yet.

As for the weather, in my area it has not been nearly as hot as "out west" where it hit 49.6 C in a small town in BC, just before most of that town was destroyed by a wild fire. Very tragic, but it seems all but 2 people got out in time. Locally, it's been the humidity that has been really draining on us, 32 C or 90F deg and 80% humidity. Now rain and heavy T storms. The weather has gone nuts!!

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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11 minutes ago, Stanglover said:

Tim, glad that is a help for you and I hope, kcmash as well, not heard from him yet.

As for the weather, in my area it has not been nearly as hot as "out west" where it hit 49.6 C in a small town in BC, just before most of that town was destroyed by a wild fire. Very tragic, but it seems all but 2 people got out in time. Locally, it's been the humidity that has been really draining on us, 32 C or 90F deg and 80% humidity. Now rain and heavy T storms. The weather has gone nuts!!

Glad to hear, you are good there! Yes, the weather has gone crazy this year - in Europe we got flooded since weeks and you are baked on the other side! Hope this will be not normality in future... Keep safe and take care, Geoff! 

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Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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1 hour ago, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

We always have 80%+ humidity. Has been hot here but that is normal. I head to Charlotte tomorrow will be 10 deg. hotter than here for car show.

 

Enjoy the sweat!

We are currently down to 72f with a cool north wind and that can F off any time it likes!

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Sorry I have not replied this week.  Really busy.

I have never thought about having to calibrate the sending unit float arm,  and I think I will pass on that activity.  The tilt the car idea sounds great,  I am able to band aid my current unit enough to see that I am between 1/4 and 1/8 tank, so I will look to switch senders soon.

I can’t win on the exhaust.  Finally got into a exhaust shop that does custom and OEM exhaust and has a top notch reputation.  I have never seen another Mach 1 with the tips so poorly aligned with the valance.  Back to square 1.

kcmash

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