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How bad is the 71 early 72 brake booster?


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Apparently these underwent an upgrade in mid-72 that was supposed to help with reliability. Were that many of the 71-72 Bendix boosters failing? What did they change in them to make them more reliable? Thanks!

Chris -  Born in '73 - Drive a '73 / Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8 / 1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

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15 hours ago, Big Red Mach 1 said:

Apparently these underwent an upgrade in mid-72 that was supposed to help with reliability. Were that many of the 71-72 Bendix boosters failing? What did they change in them to make them more reliable? Thanks!

 Good question. Next question is; what are rebuilt boosters upgraded to or are they?

I have a Cardone (Car Done as Don C says) and although it tests and hold vacuum as it should, it is not THAT much better than when I ran the front 4 piston disc brakes without a booster.

 

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I put a ton of miles on my car and have not had any (known) issues with the booster.  But then again, mine is a 73. 

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[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Never had a booster issue with any of the 71-73s I've had, including three 71s. Since I wasn't the original owner, can't guarantee that they weren't replaced over the years. 

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1 hour ago, Stanglover said:

 Good question. Next question is; what are rebuilt boosters upgraded to or are they?

I have a Cardone (Car Done as Don C says) and although it tests and hold vacuum as it should, it is not THAT much better than when I ran the front 4 piston disc brakes without a booster.

 

Classic Cougar says on their website that they rebuild all to the better 73 specs. But it does not say what that actually means. 

Chris -  Born in '73 - Drive a '73 / Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8 / 1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

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All I can say that my '73 Bendix Booster is original to the car, was unmolested and still holding vacuum after 48 years. So they have something in there that really is longlasting... 

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Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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So the reason I'm asking is because my master cylinder is leaking terribly, and has been since I've owned the car. I was under the assumption that the fluid will get inside the booster and kill it. Inevitably most of these 48+ year old cars have had to have had the master cylinders leak in this manner at some point in their lives. Yet no one in this thread has had a known issue, and my 73 booster also still holds vacuum. I was going to have the booster rebuilt or replaced when swapping the master cylinder. But now I'm wondering if I shouldn't just spare the expense and clean it up really well and re-paint it and run it. 

Chris -  Born in '73 - Drive a '73 / Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8 / 1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

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while mine is working fine if I was to replace the master I would just do it all.  In fact when my car goes into a shop in a few months I am having all the brake lines replaced and I very well might go for a new mc and booster as well.  Mine are working but look 49 years old and you can't take your money with you!!

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27 minutes ago, jscott said:

while mine is working fine if I was to replace the master I would just do it all.  In fact when my car goes into a shop in a few months I am having all the brake lines replaced and I very well might go for a new mc and booster as well.  Mine are working but look 49 years old and you can't take your money with you!!

And, having bad brakes could mean you won't get to spend it all before you depart.

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“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Posted (edited)

If I do send it off, it's going here, but it will suck to be without it for 4-6 weeks. https://harmonclassicbrakes.com/contact/

https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50001029z~Z5Z5Z5AADKP~P255.95~~~~S62C0Q8AHM68107116580g~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50001029z

 

 

Edited by Big Red Mach 1

Chris -  Born in '73 - Drive a '73 / Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8 / 1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

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2 hours ago, Big Red Mach 1 said:

That's a useful link. Cardone never seem to have any these days.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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David (Carolina Mountain Mustangs) was trying to put together the tools and parts necessary to repair them, you might check with him. I know that he rebuilt his own. 

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“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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On 6/2/2021 at 11:15 AM, Big Red Mach 1 said:

So the reason I'm asking is because my master cylinder is leaking terribly, and has been since I've owned the car. I was under the assumption that the fluid will get inside the booster and kill it. Inevitably most of these 48+ year old cars have had to have had the master cylinders leak in this manner at some point in their lives. Yet no one in this thread has had a known issue, and my 73 booster also still holds vacuum. I was going to have the booster rebuilt or replaced when swapping the master cylinder. But now I'm wondering if I shouldn't just spare the expense and clean it up really well and re-paint it and run it. 

it can. but if your booster is still holding vacuum then it is fine.

I've had to replace my original booster 2 times. first was it was original to the car and the diaphragm was dead inside.

the second blew up when i had a massive lean Carb backfire through the intake that blew up all my vacuum accessories.

 

the worst case that can happen when your booster blows is pushing the brake pedal requires some effort the brakes will still work and stop the car it will be harder.

then the engine will have a vacuum leak and start stalling.

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, timachone said:

That's the reason why I bench tested my original booster with a vaccum device - you can read the procedure on page 10 and 11 on my resto thread ('Tim's 1973 Mach 1 rebuild thread'). As I then knew my booster was holding vacumm steadily at the minimum of 10 minutes I chose to use it as is and give it some cosmetic resto. That included an order of a kit from harmonicclassicbrakes.com and a paint strip wih new nice semi gloss black. With this kit I renewed the front seal, front vaccum line seal and check valve, the rear bellow and felts and was done. For 25 bucks. So I would first recommend to test you booster before sending your original unit elsewhere... 

 

Great advice. Thanks!!

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Chris -  Born in '73 - Drive a '73 / Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8 / 1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

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  • 1 month later...

Chris-

The leaking master cylinder did mine in.

I used these guys for my rebuild:  http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/

Long time business and willing to chat on the phone.  Lifetime guarantee on the work.  They put their sticker inside the rebuild and if they ever get it back they repair it free no matter the owner.

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