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RIBS 71 convertible build JUNE 21 till??


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5 hours ago, timachone said:

You are moving along fast forward - great progress :thumb:

Thanks, just trying to get the safety stuff done so I can drive it! I will move to cooling system next, and possibly reseat intake and do some more fuel systems work. After that come body structure and wiring.

 

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Posted (edited)

So I am back on the road for my limited test drives.

Brakes done, all new hard lines, new rear cylinders, completely new from the spindle out in front. New master cylinder.

4 shocks done, the rear coil overs are gone, the stance and ride are much better!

new wheels and tires, 235 60 15 on 7 inch rims up front, 245 60 15 on 8 inch in back, no fitment issues!

 

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Edited by RIBS
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I need to make progress on mine! Looks great

Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.

1971 convertible, H-code, Ram Air

1971 Mach I, M-code, Ram Air

1972 Mexican GT-351

1988 Bronco II

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not much happening..l tried to do some work on the wiring, the dash is not lighting up, and none of the gauges work, the engine wiring harness is dead and not correct…so after conversations with Midlife I decided to try a new harness for the gauges and coil…he told me I had a mess and part of my harness is 73 in a 71 car. So anyhow, he was right…it’s time to make some changes..a 71 engine harness doesn’t work in my car…

The wiring is so damaged, I think it’s time to gut it and install a new modern system…

It should be fun!  It’s now part of my build….

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I did get all exterior lights working, neutral safety switch functional, steering interlock adjusted and working…

I also ordered a Full wiring kit.  Gonna be fun!

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Posted (edited)

Bought a new coil, one wire alternator…coil is on, car runs better, alternator this weekend….stay tuned…

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Edited by RIBS
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Good news, alternator wiring complete, alternator works, battery charging, lights brighter, engine running a little better….

I burst a seal on the convertible top pump so it’s next.

I did a lot of work to the IP and it’s still very dim, but has a little more functionality, maybe the headlight switch and wiring upgrade will get me a lit up IP….

Still need a good welder in metro Atlanta if you know anyone, I want to do radiator support and door pillars before dropping in new wiring.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not a lot happening, evaluating the metal work that needs to be done before I re wire the car….and stripping the trunk to get rid of surface rust, using rust converting coating…

 

….also spent time on my Chevy truck evaporative emissions parts, cleverly placed on top of gas tank, under bed, up against Cab for the ultimate in PIA to work on…jack the truck, loosen bed, , unplug wiring harnesses, remove one rear tire, lower to jack stand on axle, jack bed, secure bed in place with 6x6’s or 8x8’s, jack truck again, jack stands, proceed to wiggle all the wires, check all connections, reverse the process. And hope you pass your emissions test after resets…truck does it every year, a week or two before renewal paperwork arrives.

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Try that on a Michigan truck... I cut a hole in the bed floor of my Ranger to access the fuel pump. 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Just saw your post on working on your Vert. One of the best panel replacement shops in the U.S. is near Atlanta. They have done work for members that worked out great. Be very specific of what you want and how you want it put in writing so there is no gray areas. All they do is panel replacement not a body shop and will only put primer on, ZERO body and paint work.
https://www.graverobberssheetmetal.com/index.php/custom-frame-jigs

 

You will need to deliver the car with everything stripped off and out of the way for them to remove the old panels and replace with the new. They do not have the pricing for 71 - 73 on their site but you can see what it is for other years.
If you call be patient they do not have someone sitting there starring at a phone to answer immediately.
I am in Hendersonville, N.C. not too far away. I have five 72 & 73 verts but no 302.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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1 hour ago, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

Just saw your post on working on your Vert. One of the best panel replacement shops in the U.S. is near Atlanta. They have done work for members that worked out great. Be very specific of what you want and how you want it put in writing so there is no gray areas. All they do is panel replacement not a body shop and will only put primer on, ZERO body and paint work.
https://www.graverobberssheetmetal.com/index.php/custom-frame-jigs

 

You will need to deliver the car with everything stripped off and out of the way for them to remove the old panels and replace with the new. They do not have the pricing for 71 - 73 on their site but you can see what it is for other years.
If you call be patient they do not have someone sitting there starring at a phone to answer immediately.
I am in Hendersonville, N.C. not too far away. I have five 72 & 73 verts but no 302.

 

Thanks David,

I already spoke to them on the phone and sent pictures. The bottom line is they won’t touch it.  like you said, they only replace panels. I need fabrication work because door latch pillars are not available in aftermarket so replacement metal would have to be hand made.

They also said unless I stripped everything single thing off the car and let them media blast the entire shell, they would not consider it.

The car does not need that level of destruction, nor am I interested in dumping that much $ in a not rare fun car…

They might be good, but they made it clear they never wanted to see my car enter their shop.

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Things are moving slowwwwww….I have been stripping the trunk to get rid of small surface rust.  I have a few small holes near the bumper support mounts, so my body guy will add them to the list….the trunk work is general prep for what’s to come.

My biggest problem is the door pillars need repair at the base. One side is cracked at rocker and quarter panel joint, so that whole area needs rework.  I know a welder that says he’s done auto body, he did an excellent job on my boat trailer…. Part of the pillar repair will be cutting out lower quarter panels and probably the wheel well lip and putting on a lower quarter skin…cutting out the quarter will expose the base of the pillars so they can be repaired….

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Coming soon to my 302 convertible, dual exhaust!

But first, more shift and interlock linkage adjustment, rear C4 seal, adjust replace transmission band bolts, a little more degreasing, and a few hard brake line clips I left off due to access problems…STILL waiting on welder guy to give me an estimate! He saw the car 2 weeks ago!

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Your prior comment was things are moving slow....I wish I had your energy! I have not touched mine in close to 3 wks but that will change this wkend. You are moving along great. I enjoy seeing your progress.

Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.

1971 convertible, H-code, Ram Air

1971 Mach I, M-code, Ram Air

1972 Mexican GT-351

1988 Bronco II

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Posted (edited)

So I finally dove into the door pillar with a grinder…I guess it’s what I expected.  I have been talking to a welder about working on the body, he finally gave me an estimate, now I think I have something we can talk about and work out a plan.

Here’s a single pic of the area I hit with grinder, sort of looks like an abstract art piece, not a car….. more pics below.

 

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Edited by RIBS
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Here’s better pictures, compare to a few posts above to see this area painted.

In short, under the filler is thin metal, cracks, and brazing…

I think this needs to be cut out, refabricated and strengthened….

 

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