Factory power steering box

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Going to hit powersteering.com but I need to figure out if I need to change the control valve in my box. I have the 12.7:1 ratio gears with a gm type 2 1400psi and 2.1gpm control valve all connected to hydroboost. What was the factory steering box ratio for 73 and what kind of psi was the factory pump putting out? GPM would be a bigger help. Thanks

 
I have a Saginaw canned ham style pump and have it set about 850 psi max.  You should be able to pull the high pressure line off the pump, then use a socket to remove the bulkhead fitting that seals against the can.  Inside is the pressure regulator (length controls pressure, shorter is higher pressure, longer is lower pressure.  Also the flow restrictor which kind of regulates GPM.

I would de-tune your pump a bit because it is cheap and easy (just takes some washers) Also get your current caster and toe alignment numbers to make sure it isn’t making the car feel off.

Worst case you pull the steering box and do an control valve swap.  I have a .210” bar in mine and it offers plenty of feel and feedback.  The stock one is about .180”

Good luck with it,

Peter

 
Bentworker said:
I have a Saginaw canned ham style pump and have it set about 850 psi max.  You should be able to pull the high pressure line off the pump, then use a socket to remove the bulkhead fitting that seals against the can.  Inside is the pressure regulator (length controls pressure, shorter is higher pressure, longer is lower pressure.  Also the flow restrictor which kind of regulates GPM.

I would de-tune your pump a bit because it is cheap and easy (just takes some washers) Also get your current caster and toe alignment numbers to make sure it isn’t making the car feel off.

Worst case you pull the steering box and do an control valve swap.  I have a .210” bar in mine and it offers plenty of feel and feedback.  The stock one is about .180”

Good luck with it,

Peter
Click to expand...
Don't think I want to detune the pump any because that would effect my brakes which feel good. I'd rather not have to do this but I'm guessing I'll have to get the heidt's adjustable valve and install it in between my hydroboost and power steering box. This way I'm only changing the flow to the box. When you say the factory is .180 are you referring to the control valve flow rate? GPM? The flow valve in my type 2 pump is 2.1

Thanks 

 
Bentworker said:
I have a Saginaw canned ham style pump and have it set about 850 psi max.  You should be able to pull the high pressure line off the pump, then use a socket to remove the bulkhead fitting that seals against the can.  Inside is the pressure regulator (length controls pressure, shorter is higher pressure, longer is lower pressure.  Also the flow restrictor which kind of regulates GPM.

I would de-tune your pump a bit because it is cheap and easy (just takes some washers) Also get your current caster and toe alignment numbers to make sure it isn’t making the car feel off.

Worst case you pull the steering box and do an control valve swap.  I have a .210” bar in mine and it offers plenty of feel and feedback.  The stock one is about .180”

Good luck with it,

Peter
Click to expand...
That is good to know that 850 psi is enough. Which kit and/or restrictor did you use? What is the thickness of the washer(s)?

 
I don’t recall how long the regulator is in mine.  Here is a pretty good article on them.

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/2013/powersteeringmods/

73’ Mach 1 - Inside the control valve there is a torsion spring / bar.  It controls feel, I was referring to the diameter of it.  When you have a steering shop upgrade the control valve that is what they are changing.

 
Can't believe it but I think I have this figured out. So I'm 98% sure that my Volante wheel hub is binding to the column. I for S&G's put my old wheel back on and it was night and day. I could move the wheel with 2 fingers and there was some spring back if I tossed the wheel in either direction and let it go. Before the wheel wouldn't return period. I'd have to turn it back.

Question is once the hub gets corrected how much of a difference can I expect in feel between the 14" wheel vs the 15". 

 
I'm running a stock pump with a Lares 10:1 box. Also has 6 degrees of caster which takes the over assisted feeling out of the steering.

 
jspears said:
I'm running a stock pump with a Lares 10:1 box. Also has 6 degrees of caster which takes the over assisted feeling out of the steering.
Click to expand...
I'm just curious, how did you manage to get 6 degrees of castor? I take it you have stock front end components as you didn't mention otherwise. My "front end guy" was only able to get 3 degrees without interference on the LCA. If it IS possible to get more, I'd sure like to get at least 4 degrees as I like to carve corners and would like the center return to be quicker.

 
I have street or track tubular control arms so the upper control arm is adjustable. I also have the heim joint strut arms and I started out with the strut arms as short as I could get them and it was 6 degrees. I did have to bend part of the car so the lower control arms would clear. I need to adjust the uppers a little more to move the upper ball joint back. I can then lengthen the strut rods by the same amount. I have very stiff coil overs to keep from hitting the lowers on the car. My car doesn't return to center very well but it is only 2.5 turns lock to lock. It stays at center well, though.

Stanglover said:
I'm just curious, how did you manage to get 6 degrees of castor? I take it you have stock front end components as you didn't mention otherwise. My "front end guy" was only able to get 3 degrees without interference on the LCA. If it IS possible to get more, I'd sure like to get at least 4 degrees as I like to carve corners and would like the center return to be quicker.
Click to expand...

 
jspears said:
I have street or track tubular control arms so the upper control arm is adjustable. I also have the heim joint strut arms and I started out with the strut arms as short as I could get them and it was 6 degrees. I did have to bend part of the car so the lower control arms would clear. I need to adjust the uppers a little more to move the upper ball joint back. I can then lengthen the strut rods by the same amount. I have very stiff coil overs to keep from hitting the lowers on the car. My car doesn't return to center very well but it is only 2.5 turns lock to lock. It stays at center well, though.
Click to expand...
Ah, I see! That explains a lot. You have a heavily modded front end. So, not being that knowledgeable on suspension stuff, I'm wondering if you have too much castor and that is why it doesn't return to center very well. Surely that is the reason for adding castor, but too much would do the opposite. There must be a sweet spot where the steering returns almost automatically to center. That would be what I would want. With only 3 degrees on mine, I still feel the need to help it back to center. I want to steer into corners, not steer out of them.

 

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