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Remove clutch rod from z bar?


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Bushings are readily available from any Mustang parts vendor.

To remove the z-bar I always remove the 2 bolts from the frame side bracket and slip that side out.  Disconnect the clutch side push rod by loosening the adjusting nuts until you remove that rod, then release the firewall rod with the clip prior to removing the frame bracket I described above.  I believe the frame brackets take a 5/8 wrench and the clutch adjustment push rod are 1/2 inch.  I could be off a size though, so don’t hate me!

kcmash

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8 hours ago, 73inNH said:

Thanks! Can I not remove just that rod/bushing from the z bar without removing z bar/anything else?

 

The swivel is manufactured as a permanent part of the Z-bar. You need to grind off the swedged over end to replace the bushing. You'll then either need to replace the swivel with one with a clip, or weld a washer to the end of it. 

https://www.npdlink.com/search/products?search_terms=7a528&top_parent=200001&year=

You'll probably find that the swivel is very worn on the load side, and the Zbar itself is egged out and needs to be welded and drilled. 

 

 

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There's another option that I did to my clutch rod assembly. However this does require some careful reworking to install the bushings. The swivel is replaceable as Hemikiller shows, but I installed bronze oillite bushing which are available at most bearing supply stores. I'm sure there will be one nearby. 

On mine, while I had the engine out and the car disassembled, (the ideal time!) I machined the bushing holes in the rods to accept these bronze bushings. The result was well worth the effort and took a lot of pressure off the clutch (drag on the plastic bushings).

I can't seem to find the information on the bushings, but try researching "flanged oilite  3/8 x 1/2 x 1/2". I also have FL43-4 listed on my receipt. but I'm not sure what they were now. I bought a total of 6. If I find the sheet, I'll edit this later. 

I don't think these are the exact ones I used, but will show what flanged oilite bushings look like. I did not buy these from this company.

Clutch bushing sketch.pdf

Oilite Bushing.pdf

Edited by Stanglover
Added pdf.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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4 hours ago, 73inNH said:

Adding one more photo to show the elongated hole.

 

 

zbar.jpg

Well, a new part or bushing ain't going to fix that. It will need to be welded up and re-drilled and reamed for whatever bushing you chose, or buy a new Z bar shown by mjlan, For sure, you can't drive it like that for long. 

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I would check the rod that goes from the pedal to the z-bar. The end that rides in the Z-bar has a little plastic bushing that wears out and then the same thing happens. The link and bushings aren't too expensive and easy enough to change at the same time...

Matt

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Back in the day we used the bronze Hurst shifter bushings. These are steel and a whole bunch more than you need. I thought I bought them in singles but that may have been just our local speed shop. Maybe there's something in McMaster-Carr I'm sure the bushings are standard inch measurements. 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/huu-3327302?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwxo6IBhBKEiwAXSYBs-X1OBdrXxADMe9lfhlNVYOj1WHElVKbI7AqHFrAZC0Ie9iJOy8ZIhoCqaEQAvD_BwE

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[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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I would recommend Oilite Bronze bushings similar to these, but if I remember in 3/8" ID. I replaced all the plastic bushing with Oillite bronze, but some work is needed for a correct fit. The result is a much smoother clutch operation and less effort.

Oilite Bushing.pdf

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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2 hours ago, 73inNH said:

Thanks for the tips, everyone.

When I replace the z bar and all of the bushings, I assume I need to readjust the clutch linkage.

Is there a write-up on doing so?

 No idea about a write up per se, but I set mine so the push bar (from the Z bar) is very slightly loose, can be turned by your fingers. i.e. not too tight, not too loose. I do adjust and grease it periodically if needed. The pedal height is set by the stop on the bracket.  Reminder; If you're installing a diaphragm style clutch, not the long finger style originally used, then the assist spring needs to be removed. Be careful doing this!!!

Clutch set-up.pdf

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Installed z bar and all associated bushings tonight. All went well, no real issues.

The clutch pedal linkage rod looked ok. Replaced that bushing as well.

Test drive was a success.   :)

Thanks for the help, all!

 

 

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