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Fredensborg's 1973 Mach 1 improvement/build thread "Sleipnir"


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Build those lasting memories with your son. Its always exciting to me seeing a restoration ready to start. You got a pretty good list already, Im sure more will be discovered. 

Have fun, look forward to your writings.

Rod

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Yeah, let's go - I am looking forward to your progress - have fun! 

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Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Posted (edited)

Got some parts from MotorCity Mustangs today! A small project, not really worth mentioning, but the first thing we have fixed or replaced so it is worth a small celebration I think. Got a NOS dome light lens and popped it in, looks great! 😀Hopefully the first of many fixes to come! My son was pretty excited when he saw the package in the mailbox! Man this is fun!

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Edited by Fredensborg
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Jason
1973 Mach1 Q-code

My carbon footprint is exceptionally large.

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Awesome project and great to spend time with your son like that. The time I spend working on my car with my son are the best for sure. And looks like you are starting from a very solid foundation (at least compared to mine) so lots of nice manageable projects to nip away at that'll make a big difference. 

Edited by TheDude
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 image.png.c5a82cdc270542869e213815ec368140.png   72 Fastback - 351C-4V, Fitech EFI, T56 Magnum 6 Speed, FiTech EFI, 8.8 / 4.10 LSD Rear end, discs all around. Fancy rattle can paint job. 

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Great to see farther son/daughter projects.  They grow to fast and are gone before you know it.  Looking forward to seeing more on your progress.

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Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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Jason after looking at the pics of your car let me just say congrats you are way ahead of the game. Repair and refine that ride don't tare it down.

My brother bought a 70 Boss 302 back in 79 for 3.200 bucks. lucky S.O.B.  After a couple years the engine gave up the fight and was stored in our parent's basement in Connecticut for years. Winter of 87 Our Dad hauled it out to California where my brother moved 2 years before. I flew out for the summer to help get the Boss on the road.  My brother bought  clean running and driving 70 coupe for 500 hundred bucks We installed the 302 2v c4 and 8 inch from the coupe into the Boss. At that point a driver restoration began. He sorted the car out and restored  small parts like hinges latches headlight buckets bumper brackets suspension ect ect. So when it came time to do the full restoration those parts got boxed up and stored. 

If I could make 2 suggestion don't use gloss black stick with semi gloss or satin black. Gloss black looks fake and cheap in my opinion 

For parts use Don at Ohio Mustang, Motor city Mustang and N.P.D.  C.J pony arts has really gone down hill in the past few years.

Look forward to seeing memories being maid with your kids. 

               

Edited by mach71351c
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- Mike

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  • 3 weeks later...

A great project for you both. Not sure if this will help. Mine was a total resto with most parts sand blasted. Instead of using normal primer and paint on the bare steel pieces, nuts, bolts, etc I cleaned up any bare metal and used a cold galvanizing paint. This stuff bonds to clean steel, no primer or sealer. You need to get rid of all rust but not with rust remover or converter as this interferes with the galvanizing bonding. Rusty bits I dipped or brushed with 50/50 pool acid/water after wire brushing loose rust & dirt. Dry and wipe down with acetone or wax and grease remover, then spray the cold gal. Finish is satin black and doesn't chip. 

I did all the rear parts, diff, spring mounts, u bolts, drums, etc. It's  great on coil springs as well it will coat them but not crack when stretched. The brake drum in the following photos has done about 2,500 miles and no sign of burn discolouring.

Its easy to spray in tight spots, no mixing paint and great to small bits at a time. In expensive and touches up very well for those bits you might miss. Also available in silver.

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9 hours ago, Aus73Mach1 said:

A great project for you both. Not sure if this will help. Mine was a total resto with most parts sand blasted. Instead of using normal primer and paint on the bare steel pieces, nuts, bolts, etc I cleaned up any bare metal and used a cold galvanizing paint. This stuff bonds to clean steel, no primer or sealer. You need to get rid of all rust but not with rust remover or converter as this interferes with the galvanizing bonding. Rusty bits I dipped or brushed with 50/50 pool acid/water after wire brushing loose rust & dirt. Dry and wipe down with acetone or wax and grease remover, then spray the cold gal. Finish is satin black and doesn't chip. 

 

 

Wow that looks really good!! I'd love to get mine looking like that, but I don't have a sandblaster at home and I cant drag my 9" to work with me. I also don't really want to unhook the break lines and drive shaft if I don't have to...I did use a wire wheel on the axle as best I could, but I don't think I'll ever get all the surface rust off that way, I was just going to Rust-o-lium it and call it good. But maybe I will try to chemically remove the rust as you suggested, I didn't even know that was a possibility. So, using a muriatic acid solution take off the rust? And what is the acetone for? to neutralize the acid? And when you say wax, you mean car wax? like turtle wax or something?

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Jason
1973 Mach1 Q-code

My carbon footprint is exceptionally large.

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Yes, that's the acid, hydrochloric by another name. Wear gloves and wash off all parts with water and dry quickly to prevent surface rust forming. The "wax & grease" remover I referred to is a pre-paint cleaner to remove oil, wax & other contaminants. No need to sand blast everything. I wire wheeled/brushed lots of parts prior to the black gal treatment. I did all the brake lines as well.

I would take the extra time to pull the rest of the diff out seeing you are that far in. You need to fix that oil leak, a lot easier with it all out. Removing the tail shaft is no big deal, mark everything before removal and only a brake bleed after re-installation.

Here are a few other parts treated the same way a while ago, left over from my project.

David

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Edited by Aus73Mach1
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Great job. Great start! Nothing better that seeing the undercar changing from rust to nicely painted.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Off to Wisconsin Dells for a few days with the kids tomorrow, but I got the drums primed and painted before taking off. Gonna detail and paint that 9” when we get back. D26E4E8A-B46B-4FC7-B29E-0B8282BF0532.thumb.jpeg.3ac461581a5600d1f8d3666322ad376c.jpeg

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Jason
1973 Mach1 Q-code

My carbon footprint is exceptionally large.

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LOL…your last post brought back memories - squeeze in some garage time with my Mustang, then family time somewhere in the Dells for several days, then back to the garage. Definitely been there and done that.  Enjoy!

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If you used regular paint on the drums it will burn right off. Also Ford used a satin black on parts never gloss black. If you go back and wash the paint off the drums and use VHT, Very High Temp. paint will last longer. Or paint for a grill will also do pretty good. The gloss black will not look correct for the axle housing for sure. The center section was actually red oxide primer.
Is the car a Mach 1 Sports Roof or just a Sports Roof? I see Sports Roof trim.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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8 hours ago, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

If you used regular paint on the drums it will burn right off. Also Ford used a satin black on parts never gloss black. If you go back and wash the paint off the drums and use VHT, Very High Temp. paint will last longer. Or paint for a grill will also do pretty good. The gloss black will not look correct for the axle housing for sure. The center section was actually red oxide primer.
Is the car a Mach 1 Sports Roof or just a Sports Roof? I see Sports Roof trim.

It’s a Mach 1. My wheels will completely cover the drums, so I’m not too worried if it burns off. I will have to get some satin black for the axle housing, I had no luck finding the black zinc coating that Aus73Mach1 mentioned. I’m just hoping I can get the axle clean enough so the paint will last. I’m planning on putting in a new center section in the future with a different gear ratio and some type of posi, so I won’t be spending a lot of time detailing that. 

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Jason
1973 Mach1 Q-code

My carbon footprint is exceptionally large.

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   I know this probably isn’t the correct way to do this, but I have no interest in completely removing my 9” to properly clean and detail it to a like new condition at this time…Minnesota winters are too long, and every day the car is in pieces is another day we can’t drive it. This car is a driver, and we want to get it back on the road ASAP. In the future, I will do a in depth restoration and I’m sure I’ll be kicking myself for not taking the time to do some things now but fortune favors the bold as they say, and me and the boy have cruising to do. 
 

   I did the best I could with a wire wheel, and an acid solution to remove surface rust. Then we rinsed, thoroughly dried it, and gave it a coat of primer. Got some satin black Rust-oleum that we will be putting on tomorrow after the primer has dried. Reassembly with the new springs, shocks and sway bar hopefully later this week. I promised my son I’d let him drive it around the block for helping me out so much…gonna be a fun week!! 
 

Worst case scenario, this paint starts to flake and chip in a few months…it will still look a million times better than it did when we started! 

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Jason
1973 Mach1 Q-code

My carbon footprint is exceptionally large.

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