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MooseStang

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 1, 2021
Messages
339
Reaction score
149
Location
Texas
My Car
72 Q-code Vert
72 L-code Vert
Got a bunch of stuff to take care off.  I'll start with these...

Rim blow switch - does anybody make a brown repo?

Both of my power top cylinders are leaking around the piston. Can these be rebuilt?

 
As for the rim blow switch: nobody makes them in brown again. Have an all original ginger rimblow too but changed the original hardened brwon rim blow switch to a new black on. Does great and nobody nows the difference. 

Concerning the other topic you better ask the vert-specialists  :whistling:

For a better find please make a more detailed topic description in your thread title in future  :thumb:

 
The parts fairy made a visit today.  Two new top cylinders installed, first pass at rim blow rebuild.

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Pancakes for breakfast. 

Drivers side is dead. Bloodless extraction,  cudos to wccc on their video so far.

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I just picked up a Power Window set up on Friday out of Mach 1.
Be careful taking the pancake motors apart they are scarce for sure and WCCC video is a great help. Use the Lucas Oil Red N Tacky #2 grease instead of the old white grease much better. Use on the tracks and rollers also. Lots of cleaning to do on them I am sure. Doing mine now.

 
So, it looks like I've got a couple of burned out spots on the armature probably due to the gearing being frozen up.

Are the brushes large enough that it will still work or do I need to repair if possible?

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Hi Moose 
That is repairable ... an easy piece of work for me -- but may be fiddly and irritating for someone who's not done it before 
Its done in the same way I rebuild blown track on Printed Circuit Boards in the electronic systems I deal with at work. 

I don't disagree - its a painstaking, often irritating job.

  1. Clean and lap down the faces where it has blown raised areas with tiny diamond tip of a Dremel (small rotary tool)
  2. Clean any copper spatter out of the trenches
  3. Get slightly oversized diameter copper wire - remove the enamel and make a piece to fit precisely into your gap 
  4. Place a tiny drop of nail varnish (Yes ....girlie nail varnish) in the gap (clear is best so you can see the substrate you're working on) 
  5. With tweezers lay the piece into the gap and let the varnish harden (5mins) 
  6. Solder each end delicately  ("Sodder" in Amercanese :classic_tongue: ) 
  7. Then flatten to the same surface height by removing excess copper/sodder with fine diamond dip with Dremel 
  8. Fine polish with wet/dry emery paper 

voila - a new track  :thumb:

copper wire.jpg

 
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So, I was able to get another working pancake motor.  Just need to clean, lube, seal and install.  I'll fix the other one later.
I also got my new ram air seal installed.  Also installed new windshield washers and hoses.
New pawl pins for tilt steering have arrived, need to install.
R12 is due to arrive today, will need to find a can tap and hose.
Also pulled the LH ram motor, had a dislocated pop rivet. 
Oh, and got new tires last week.   The other ones were a bit on the "aged" side.
 

 
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See you are using R-12 in the AC system. Did you go through and replace all the O-rings and clean the system? If not the new refrigerant will just leak out. I doubt you will find a charging hose for a can of R-12 I have a couple but very old.
I switched my systems over to Duracool R12a, which is even better that R-12 and way better that R-134. I took my system apart and cleaned all the connections, new dryer filter, new lube in compressor and O-rings in everything. There are two drain plugs on the compressor that need O-rings and also the vent on the rear side needs one. If it will not hold a vacuum no need in charging it without fixing the leak.
To prevent the connections from sticking I put a little anti seize on the threads. Not the O-rings or inside the system only the threads. When going back together you tighten and loosen the connections repeatedly to seat them. Of course lube the O-rings with compressor oil.
 I have a case of DuPont R-12 and a 30lb. tank in the shop if it has not leaked down. Have not used in years. I do sell the cans.
Link to Duracool. https://www.duracool.com/Duracool/refrigerants.html

 
Well, since the system still has pressure and the compressor is engaging, I thought I'd at least try to add some R12 and see what happens. If I don't get any improvement, then I will consider changing over maybe later this fall.   Thanks for the info.  Autozone actually has a can tap and R12 manifold set available online.  May have to look into that also.

 
Well, still stewing on how to handle the ac.

While installing my passenger door speaker I  found this buried.  When I bought Moose, there was no history or any documentation provided. Only that the car was believed to come from Louisiana and had passed through a couple of dealers since.  I eventually was able to track down the previous non dealer owner. He had it from about 2005 to 2020.

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Since my headlights are still dim until new parts arrive, I thought I'd throw on some cheap driving lights I already had.  Used existing holes, will clean up wiring once I make a decision to keep or not.  

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The rear stripes on Moose have been annoying me from day one.  It's mostly the placement,  but I kinda like the look of no rear stripes. What's the consensus of the peanut gallery? (does anyone even use that phrase anymore?) I do plan on adding a flip cap.

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Sheriff41, where bouts are you located? I'm just north of Houston. 

 
Just west of San Antonio. 

FYI, the Mustang Owner's Club of Austin is holding a show in Georgetown Sept 25th if you're up for a drive.  I don't know what kind of turn out they get but I may drive up to check is out.

 
I have other plans for that date, plus I still have some vibration issues to be sorted out before taking a road trip. 

 
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