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As for the rim blow switch: nobody makes them in brown again. Have an all original ginger rimblow too but changed the original hardened brwon rim blow switch to a new black on. Does great and nobody nows the difference. 

Concerning the other topic you better ask the vert-specialists :whistling:

For a better find please make a more detailed topic description in your thread title in future :thumb:

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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I just picked up a Power Window set up on Friday out of Mach 1.
Be careful taking the pancake motors apart they are scarce for sure and WCCC video is a great help. Use the Lucas Oil Red N Tacky #2 grease instead of the old white grease much better. Use on the tracks and rollers also. Lots of cleaning to do on them I am sure. Doing mine now.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

So, I was able to get another working pancake motor.  Just need to clean, lube, seal and install.  I'll fix the other one later.
I also got my new ram air seal installed.  Also installed new windshield washers and hoses.
New pawl pins for tilt steering have arrived, need to install.
R12 is due to arrive today, will need to find a can tap and hose.
Also pulled the LH ram motor, had a dislocated pop rivet. 
Oh, and got new tires last week.   The other ones were a bit on the "aged" side.
 

Edited by MooseStang
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See you are using R-12 in the AC system. Did you go through and replace all the O-rings and clean the system? If not the new refrigerant will just leak out. I doubt you will find a charging hose for a can of R-12 I have a couple but very old.
I switched my systems over to Duracool R12a, which is even better that R-12 and way better that R-134. I took my system apart and cleaned all the connections, new dryer filter, new lube in compressor and O-rings in everything. There are two drain plugs on the compressor that need O-rings and also the vent on the rear side needs one. If it will not hold a vacuum no need in charging it without fixing the leak.
To prevent the connections from sticking I put a little anti seize on the threads. Not the O-rings or inside the system only the threads. When going back together you tighten and loosen the connections repeatedly to seat them. Of course lube the O-rings with compressor oil.
 I have a case of DuPont R-12 and a 30lb. tank in the shop if it has not leaked down. Have not used in years. I do sell the cans.
Link to Duracool. https://www.duracool.com/Duracool/refrigerants.html

 

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Well, since the system still has pressure and the compressor is engaging, I thought I'd at least try to add some R12 and see what happens. If I don't get any improvement, then I will consider changing over maybe later this fall.   Thanks for the info.  Autozone actually has a can tap and R12 manifold set available online.  May have to look into that also.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Just west of San Antonio. 

FYI, the Mustang Owner's Club of Austin is holding a show in Georgetown Sept 25th if you're up for a drive.  I don't know what kind of turn out they get but I may drive up to check is out.

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Okay, time for some updates.   
Bought another 72 vert (Johnny Lightning)
Installed rebuilt alternator
Clock now working (still adjusting)
Discovered tilt steering pins are the source of my play
Discovered I've got an electric trunk release, need to order the wiring harness
"Fixed" my broken turn signal cancel (with a zip tie, we'll see how long it lasts)
Adjusted my rear spoiler so it is planar with the trunk lid
Found the empty socket where I believe the PARK light is supposed to be.
Found a new definition for the dash mount 10" speaker

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Edited by MooseStang
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