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Parking brake pedal - no cable tension


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The cables should be lubricated from time to time with acid-free bicycle or sewing machine oil. WD 40 or gun oil have also proven effective here. Grease should not be used, because it gums up at some point and then nothing works.

Cheers Frank 

1972 Mach 1, 351C-2V, wimbledon white, blue all vinyl luxury

born in Dearborn, grown in the district of San José, spent a lifetime in California, moved to Germany in 2010

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Check the hook between a bracket welded to the underside of the floor and the cable.  If the hook is missing, you won't have tension in the cable.  There is a spring (also under the floor) where the single cable attaches to the two cables to the rear drums.  Make sure that spring is not broken, and the tensioner is still providing tension.

Edited by MikeGriese

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Mike

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In the bottom picture of the spring and cable, that one nut is inside the connector and one outside.  Both nuts should be outside, so they can jam against themselves.  I am not in the shop right now, so I don't have the service manual handy, but I know there is an adjustment procedure in there, as  I just installed the entire braking system over the last 2 days.

Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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What happens to the spring when you press on the brake pedal?  Does it move at all?  What can happen with these cables is that they corrode internally, causing the cable to swell in the sleeve.  The cable binds and can break when tension is applied if there is enough rust.  The end attached to the pedal could no longer be attached to the end with the spring, but there is enough rust that the tension on the spring is maintained. 

Edited by MikeGriese

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Mike

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On 9/9/2021 at 10:48 PM, MooseStang said:

Found a better pic.  How much compression is that spring supposed to have on it?  The more compressed, the less slack at the pedal, right?

I see you have a convertible make sure the cables are free and clear of obstruction and are not frayed as they pass thru the seat reinforcement pans. 

 

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Edited by rackerm

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

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With the rust on the spring, I'd say you have a lot of friction in the whole system from rust and dirt.  Start with the pivots on the pedal and start lubricating all of the pivot points and sleeves, even into the rear brakes. 

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Mike

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