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trainey

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Apr 3, 2011
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Location
Kennesaw, GA
My Car
1972 H-code Mach1
2010 GT Premium
2004 F150- The "home depot" machine
2018 HD RoadGlide Ultra
Hey Guys!

So, I have been thinking of making some changes to my 'H' code 351 2V stock setup. I have been looking around on Summit and Jegs, and have come up with this combo, but I am a little unsure so wanted to get some opinions, not sure of carb size, and cam...

Edelbrock 7564 - Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Manifold

Comp Cams #249-CL32-221-3

High Energy 268H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & Lifter Kit

Lift: .494''

Duration: 268°

RPM Range: 1500-5500

Edelbrock #350-1405

Manual Choke 600 cfm Carburetor

Thanks in advance for your input!!

 
Cam is on the small side... What do you want out of the car?
I am looking for a little more performance, mainly on the street/cruising. I have no plans for racing and outrageous performance.

 
Hey Guys!

So, I have been thinking of making some changes to my 'H' code 351 2V stock setup. I have been looking around on Summit and Jegs, and have come up with this combo, but I am a little unsure so wanted to get some opinions, not sure of carb size, and cam...

Edelbrock 7564 - Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Manifold

Comp Cams #249-CL32-221-3

High Energy 268H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & Lifter Kit

Lift: .494''

Duration: 268°

RPM Range: 1500-5500

Edelbrock #350-1405

Manual Choke 600 cfm Carburetor

Thanks in advance for your input!!
Do you have an automatic trans with a stock convertor? Do you know the gear ratio? Do you have power brakes? Are you going to upgrade the valve train (springs, rocker arms etc)? Chuck

 
I used a Comp K32-241-4 cam kit on my 351C. Very nice improvement on torque/hp. The advantage of the K kit is a new cam and lifter, as you mentioned, but also a good true dual-roller timing chain/gear setup. Clevelands eat stock-style timing chains. For a carb, I went with a Holley 80457S 600cfm carb.

 
i run the 270 cam but on a 4v with quenched heads. Your plan for a some extra performance is pretty good. Headers and a dual exhaust would help. Go with some 3.25 or 3.50 gears.

 
Thanks Guys,

Right now I am running the original FMX trans, and the rear axle is 2.79. I plan to change the rear to 3.5 traction-lok at some point, and then later still converting to the AOD. I wasn't sure if I would need to change valve springs/rockers or not. I already have a good dual-roller timing chain/gear set to put in it. Yes on the power brakes, I am runnnig headers, and 2 1/4' pipe duals, with Flowmaster mufflers.

Forgot about the lower compression of a 2V. That cam would work well, depending on other factors. An RPM air gap might be a bit much intake for it though.
I was reading another post on here, on a 2V engine I think, and the single plane intake was causing less power at lower RPMs, and it was suggested to go to a dual plane, which is why I picked this one. There is a single plane on JEGS as well, for less money. Obviously, this is an area that I don't know much about, so I value your help!

 
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Thanks Guys,

Right now I am running the original FMX trans, and the rear axle is 2.79. I plan to change the rear to 3.5 traction-lok at some point, and then later still converting to the AOD. I wasn't sure if I would need to change valve springs/rockers or not. I already have a good dual-roller timing chain/gear set to put in it. Yes on the power brakes, I am runnnig headers, and 2 1/4' pipe duals, with Flowmaster mufflers.

Forgot about the lower compression of a 2V. That cam would work well, depending on other factors. An RPM air gap might be a bit much intake for it though.
I was reading another post on here, on a 2V engine I think, and the single plane intake was causing less power at lower RPMs, and it was suggested to go to a dual plane, which is why I picked this one. There is a single plane on JEGS as well, for less money. Obviously, this is an area that I don't know much about, so I value your help!
I think the cam would work well in the 2V with stock compression, stock convertor, although the 2.79 gear is on the edge (a 3.25-3.50 would be a lot better). The suggested springs on the Comp site seem too light a pressure to me (93 closed, 237 open). I would call Comp tech and discuss it with them. The Edelbrock performer dual plane will work well for your combination. I'd suggest a vacuum secondary Holley 600 cfm WITH the Ford kick down lever and adjustable floats. Another option is the Summit brand vacuum secondary 600 cfm WITH the Ford kick down lever. These are almost leak proof, simple carbs with annular discharge boosters which provide strong "signal" and good anatomization. The design was bought from Holley who borrowed heavily from the original Ford design. These part should be well matched as a package, be streetable, provide enough vacuum for the brakes and vacuum modulator (you may need to adjust the modulator after installation). Change initial mechanical advance at 12-16 degrees, 34-36 total advance. Start saving for a gear, roller rockers, and an extra capacity oil pan. Be advised the stock valves have been known to break with extended high RPM use although many people "get away with it" for quite a while. Let us know what you end up doing and how it works. Be prepared to do some tuning of the carb and distributor/timing. Chuck

 
OK, I got my "wishlist" items setup on JEGS (I like Jegs instead of Summit, because I save the Sales tax I have to pay Summit being in Georgia). Changed to the Holley Carb, with Ford kickdown, complete Comp Cam kit with lifters, springs etc, and the dual plane intake. All in all about $1k. I'll start purchasing these items about half this month, and half next, then we'll see how it goes!

I also picked up a 3.50 Ford Ring and Pinion set. Any guess as to whether the stock axles are 28 or 31 Spline? I plan on getting a Traction-Lok setup for it as well.

Thanks for all of your Help!

 
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3.50 gears are perfect for a street driven car but rpms start to climb on the interstate, not too bad though.
Cool, Someday I plan to convert to the AOD for the interstate driving! I was looking at the Traction Lok assemblies online, they aren't cheap either...oh well, what else do I have to spend my money on right? ;-)



They should be 28 spline,31's mostly came in boss an drag pak cars. You will definitely like the 3.50 gears , especially with engine upgrades you are doing.
Thanks! What I figured, but wanted to check...

 
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OK, I got my "wishlist" items setup on JEGS (I like Jegs instead of Summit, because I save the Sales tax I have to pay Summit being in Georgia). Changed to the Holley Carb, with Ford kickdown, complete Comp Cam kit with lifters, springs etc, and the dual plane intake. All in all about $1k. I'll start purchasing these items about half this month, and half next, then we'll see how it goes!

I also picked up a 3.50 Ford Ring and Pinion set. Any guess as to whether the stock axles are 28 or 31 Spline? I plan on getting a Traction-Lok setup for it as well.

Thanks for all of your Help!
I still think you should talk to comp about the springs before you buy them. It sounds like you have a good plan. Get connected with the local gear heads and someone will find you a used traction-lok unit that is rebuildable. Good Luck, Chuck

 
If you are looking to spend the money on a new traction loc,I would look a maybe a buying a detroit tru trac.They are an all gear driven limited slip,so their are no clutches to wear out.I know alot of people use traction locs and like them,I have just never been a big fan of them.

 
Or a powertrax no-slip. It replaces the spider gears. I have a lockrite in mine with 3.70s and it's a bit harsh for my taste. I will likely change it for the no slip or a real detroit. 3.70s are as low as I'd want to go and still have it able to do some freeway driving.

 
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