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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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Cool post, Steve. I'll be 54 next week, with a non-concours convertible. The question I have is who should deserve to drive around in your car sitting in the seats without seat covers? The next owner who paid a whole lot more because of the pristine seats, or you, the true lover of the car?

 

Take this with two grains of salt, because I'm starting to think more about enjoying the vert while I have her, rather than wait until questionable futures.

 

I think you are right Doc. I will be 54 in 5 months myself and we must be thinking the same way. I was just recently thinking about my 69 Mach 1 (shaker, 4 speed, all original) that I kept in the garage, covered up, rarely driven so I could keep the mileage down. I sold that car in an incredible moment of stupidity several years ago and now realize that I never really got to enjoy it. I was always saving it - and for what? Like you said - for someone else to enjoy. I think those seat covers come off this year! They have been there since July 1973 so it's time to set them free.

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reinstalled the axles with new seals and bearings. Reinstalled the rear brakes. Seems to be dragging more than ever. :( Had to make some adjustments to the bracketry and my e brake set up is a PITA to work on with the x pipe, so it looks like I am going to be looking at some rerouting and an exhaust system mod or two.

 

I'll probably take it all apart again if I can't find the source of the tightness.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Got it standing on rubber that's not rotten:

 

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-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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My take on the seat subject:

I read a quote by an owner in a muscle car magazine that said:" I'll be damned if I take care of it for the next one to enjoy it. "

That's the rule I live by. I put so much money into my car, I have to get a return and my return is the fun I have with it.

I treat all my stuff like that, my guitars too.

I have a completely original 1964 Fender Stratocaster (google the value for fun) that I still take out and play live although I have plenty guitars I could use instead. If I don't play it there us no use in having it.

My two cents.

So enjoy your car or the next guy will.

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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My take on the seat subject:

I read a quote by an owner in a muscle car magazine that said:" I'll be damned if I take care of it for the next one to enjoy it. "

That's the rule I live by. I put so much money into my car, I have to get a return and my return is the fun I have with it.

I treat all my stuff like that, my guitars too.

I have a completely original 1964 Fender Stratocaster (google the value for fun) that I still take out and play live although I have plenty guitars I could use instead. If I don't play it there us no use in having it.

My two cents.

So enjoy your car or the next guy will.

 

That's my sentiments exactly! I'm building my car to drive and enjoy! If I screw something up, I can always fix it. Trailer queen is not in my vocabulary!

 

-Travis

- Travis

 

 

 

I'm an analog man in a digital world.

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Little elbow grease and a wash job and your cruisin tomorrow.

 

Har, har, har.

 

Everybody here ought to be utterly envious of how you've kept your build down to pocket change. How did you paint it without succumbing to the isocyanates?

 

-Kurt

satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png

How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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This was last week but finally got the AM FM 8 Track working back from a shop that had it forever and a day. Installed it so this is like the coolest thing ever- although the digital clock that keeps accurate time is almost as cool. It came out of a late 70s Ford and most people who are not Mustang experts think it is original!

 

Almost no upgrades left that I want to do to the car left to do.

 

I think I however mamegd to sscrew up the wiring as the tailights and running lights wont turn off unless I disconnect the battery!

stereo.jpg.94dbc62aca2e7feb54ef5f7ff304d5d9.jpg

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Well I figured since im going to be driving 4+ hours to Carlisle I need to move my drivers seat to make it a little more comfortable. A few years back I installed new floor pans in my car and new seat risers. At the time I didn't know that they only sold seat risers for coupe and convertible. Turns out they are about 3/4-1" higher that the fastback risers. That and my new seat cushions and upholstery made my head rub the roof. So when driving I always had to slouch down. Not very comfortable. So I am going to cut out the spot weld on seat riser cut it down and re weld in back in to the car lower and a little more back to get a touch more leg room. Probably an inch lower and an inch and half to the rear. only thing that sucks is that I have eastwood heat shield and sound deadener all over the floor. So I took a knife and cut out what I needed and took and heat gun and putty knife and started scraping away the nasty black goo. Got that all off after an hr or two.

So tonight finish drilling the spot welds and clean it up to re weld back in. All this work for a couple inches!!! but it should be a lot more comfortable to ride in. If I would of known about the seat pans then!!! o well. Still need to wire up my exhaust cutouts and give the car a good detailing before Carlisle.

 

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Well .... most of you know my 3 year search for power window parts to make my Mach I "all original".

 

Well I have had not less than 4 bad experiences with attempting to buy these parts. I've been ask to spend 1100.00 to 3,000 just to keep her original.

 

Finally I find a car for sale 100 miles from me. In the pic and by the owners description it had power windows and the bezels were in tact. The car is a rust bucket... i drive out today to see it. The car is REALLY a rust bucket. I Open the doors and yes it had power windows... ALL the bezels were screwed on. Quick indication the bezel clips are broken as is the case with most of these cars. Broken clips translate to worthless bezels and window gang switches. Welp another wasted trip.

 

I guess this contributes to what did i do to or for my car today.

 

67 Diamond Blue Vert

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRveIaRU6OAzTfd2Mv6ypGH49BZcPU7MS_7PBKhiOmpmJJrHJ_B_Q

 

DUDE

 

LOL even my sig line offended somebody!

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Mr. Differential began making noise a few weeks ago. I replaced the axle bearings and seals. I need a seal anyway as it was leaking when it came out of storage last year before the engine rebuild. Overfilled it and the seals leaked horribly.

 

Pulled it apart this morning and went through the differential. At first I could find nothing wrong. bearings were all perfect, pattern on the gears was decent-not perfect, but not the cause of the noise. So I decided to torque the ring gear bolts since I had a shop convert it from 28-31 spline side gears and hat and they would have had it apart. AHA! Larry's crack smoking shop monkey must have run them in with an impact or something.

 

Not only were none of them to spec 5 were stripped badly and 1 more was just starting to strip.

 

Thankfully I was able to get some ARP bolts and the ring gear was not damaged. Now the rough spot is gone, though I need to torque one more time tomorrow before putting it back in as the ARP specs are higher than stock. 85ft lbs vs 65 ft lbs

 

Axle seals were for 31 spline axles-but. . . they were wrong. Apparently when you convert from 28 to 31 spline axles in the old housing the seal size remains the same. axle diameter at the seal is 1.37 either way, but the seals that I removed and replaced with matching part numbers were 1.5 ID and not even touching the axles. OOPS!

 

So tomorrow morning I'll button it up and see if the problems are resolved. Monday I'm going to go to Larry's shop and tell him. The shop monkeys are long gone, but as the owner he needs to know.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Mr. Differential began making noise a few weeks ago. I replaced the axle bearings and seals. I need a seal anyway as it was leaking when it came out of storage last year before the engine rebuild. Overfilled it and the seals leaked horribly.

 

Pulled it apart this morning and went through the differential. At first I could find nothing wrong. bearings were all perfect, pattern on the gears was decent-not perfect, but not the cause of the noise. So I decided to torque the ring gear bolts since I had a shop convert it from 28-31 spline side gears and hat and they would have had it apart. AHA! Larry's crack smoking shop monkey must have run them in with an impact or something.

 

Not only were none of them to spec 5 were stripped badly and 1 more was just starting to strip.

 

Thankfully I was able to get some ARP bolts and the ring gear was not damaged. Now the rough spot is gone, though I need to torque one more time tomorrow before putting it back in as the ARP specs are higher than stock. 85ft lbs vs 65 ft lbs

 

Axle seals were for 31 spline axles-but. . . they were wrong. Apparently when you convert from 28 to 31 spline axles in the old housing the seal size remains the same. axle diameter at the seal is 1.37 either way, but the seals that I removed and replaced with matching part numbers were 1.5 ID and not even touching the axles. OOPS!

 

So tomorrow morning I'll button it up and see if the problems are resolved. Monday I'm going to go to Larry's shop and tell him. The shop monkeys are long gone, but as the owner he needs to know.

 

^^^

This is why I hate to pay shops to do stuff to my cars. Most either fuxor stuff up, or don't do what I tell/pay them too.

 

Glad you figured it out before a bolt or two backed out and nuked the diff.

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.

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Larry is a friend and half the time he hasn't charged me anything and has let me bring in parts etc. Since the engine failed, I've found that much of what his guys did wasn't done right. I'm mostly upset to learn he doesn't keep an eye on what is going on.

 

I don't know if my "catch" is going to be enough on this one, I am hopeful it will be okay, but gear wear may or may not become an issue.

 

PS if anyone thinks shop monkeys is racial, it isn't-these "mechanics" are not minorities, they just aren't up to human intelligence levels

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Larry is a friend and half the time he hasn't charged me anything and has let me bring in parts etc. Since the engine failed, I've found that much of what his guys did wasn't done right. I'm mostly upset to learn he doesn't keep an eye on what is going on.

 

I don't know if my "catch" is going to be enough on this one, I am hopeful it will be okay, but gear wear may or may not become an issue.

 

PS if anyone thinks shop monkeys is racial, it isn't-these "mechanics" are not minorities, they just aren't up to human intelligence levels

 

I was offended by "shop monkey"....

 

sock-monkey-edward-myers.jpg

 

Sorry ....thought you said "sock" monkey

 

67 Diamond Blue Vert

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRveIaRU6OAzTfd2Mv6ypGH49BZcPU7MS_7PBKhiOmpmJJrHJ_B_Q

 

DUDE

 

LOL even my sig line offended somebody!

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Put it back in the car, reinstalled everything. Found a few collector bolts that had loosened. Tightened up my e-bke to where it will now hold on a slight grade-still have room for more adjustment. Test drove it about 15 miles, almost perfect. No leaks, no vibration, no whine, ever so slight roar, but with Calverts and an aluminum front bushing and the back seat and side panel out. it really was just audible and not noticeable unless you were trying to hear it.

 

I'm thankful I caught it. I'm even more thankful that my buddy Tommy was willing to come hang out and give me assistance esp with the backlash setting and reinstalling the chunk. I trust his eyes and ears more than my own on stuff like differentials.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Today I spent a couple of hours working on little things. I replaced the dimmer switch, installed the dome light, installed the license plate light, installed courtesy lights, door jamb switches, flashers, replaced tail light bulbs, and clock lens. Had to find and cut the opening for the dome light since they did not do it when installing the headliner.

 

All in all, not a bad day.

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Mr. Differential began making noise a few weeks ago. I replaced the axle bearings and seals. I need a seal anyway as it was leaking when it came out of storage last year before the engine rebuild. Overfilled it and the seals leaked horribly.

 

Pulled it apart this morning and went through the differential. At first I could find nothing wrong. bearings were all perfect, pattern on the gears was decent-not perfect, but not the cause of the noise. So I decided to torque the ring gear bolts since I had a shop convert it from 28-31 spline side gears and hat and they would have had it apart. AHA! Larry's crack smoking shop monkey must have run them in with an impact or something.

 

Not only were none of them to spec 5 were stripped badly and 1 more was just starting to strip.

 

Thankfully I was able to get some ARP bolts and the ring gear was not damaged. Now the rough spot is gone, though I need to torque one more time tomorrow before putting it back in as the ARP specs are higher than stock. 85ft lbs vs 65 ft lbs

 

Axle seals were for 31 spline axles-but. . . they were wrong. Apparently when you convert from 28 to 31 spline axles in the old housing the seal size remains the same. axle diameter at the seal is 1.37 either way, but the seals that I removed and replaced with matching part numbers were 1.5 ID and not even touching the axles. OOPS!

 

So tomorrow morning I'll button it up and see if the problems are resolved. Monday I'm going to go to Larry's shop and tell him. The shop monkeys are long gone, but as the owner he needs to know.

paying shops to do things for me ~ $8,000 between disc brake coversion kits-shocks-exhaust-transmission and EFI RE: labor alone cost me an add 5,000 in correcting and repairing their poor quality assurance from those shop monkeys that the BBB of W. PA will hear about. JUST ONE JOB COSTED ME 4K INDAMAGES SEE MY P8 OF MY PHOTO ALBUM RE: BRAKES GIVING OUT

^^^

This is why I hate to pay shops to do stuff to my cars. Most either fuxor stuff up, or don't do what I tell/pay them too.

 

Glad you figured it out before a bolt or two backed out and nuked the diff.

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Put my insturment cluster back in the car after putting the LED bulbs and the new circuit board in. Did it twice since the new electronic VR did nt work. Put my old one in and gages came back alive.

 

Still need to upgrade the center gages to LED bulbs. They did not light up, hoping just burned out bulbs. Plan to do that when I get my AM-8 Track radio rebuilt. Will then pull the "not correct" AM-FM radio that is in there now.

 

Also learned that the dash pad is not original to my car. It was green at one time. Was painted black for my car at some point.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not so much what I did to the car, but got for the car. At the Carlise swap meet I got a complete convert. top, SS trim, cylinders, pump, and the visors, all for the low low price of 50 dollars. Yes it was a steal but that was the asking price. Also got a Weiand water pump for 20 dollars.

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Nice find!

Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony
Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06

20180127_082009.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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Diggin the water pump. I drove the 4 miles to the tire shop to get them balanced, had them mounted a couple of years ago and the machine was down at the time.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Last trip to the drive in the throwout bearing started singing way offkey. So we dropped the tranny and, while it was out decided it was an opportune time to trade out the 4.71 3rd member (original N-Case) with a spare regular center section set up with much more street-friendly 3.91s. Got it all back together today.

 

This is probably already up here somewhere, but it bears repeating. Tech tip for those without access to a lift (isn't google great?). Wrestling with a 100lb tranny in about a foot of head room while lining everything up to stab just right either takes two big strong boys and a lot of patience, a tranny jack, or the floorjack you already have, couple of bungees to hold it on, and two 6", smooth shaft, 7/16 bolts with the heads cut off (Bingo!). Thread the headless bolts into the lower holes of the bellhousing, roll the trans up with your jack, adjust until you can slide the transmission's lower ear holes over the pilots and it's all downhill from there. Make minor adjustments with the jack until it all lines up right and the throwout is stabbed.

 

Of course it took an afternoon of cussing and bathing in tranny lube before we found that one. :rolleyes:

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finally got to work on the Mustang today.. first time all year..

 

I installed a chin spoiler, went on nice and easy.. Replaced an incorrect speedo gear, thanks to the folks on this forum for the help. I was noticing mechanical buzzing type noise coming from somewhere under the car.. it would come and go and I started to notice that it was tied to putting the car into P/N/D/R.. Checked my trans fluid and it was low, not sure how as there are no leaks that I can see, trans is super clean looking. Put in about 3/4 of a bottle of fluid to bring it back up to the correct level and the noise is now gone..

 

Next week im tackling front springs, rear leafs, and ball joints etc with the help of my brother.. My car sits way to high, can't wait to have it back to normal or close to normal - 1" drop.

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satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png

How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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