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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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To deal with the weight help yourself with a garage jack. Place it under the 3rd member and just use your hands to keep it centered in the jack. Once the member is on the jack let it drop.

I did it this way on my own and was not that hard. To install I followed the same idea but had to use my leg to pump the jack lever while keeping the member on the jack with my two hands.

Yes... it is very heavy and I imagine hard to do without a jack.

Just in case, I placed a couple wood blocks around the jack in case the 3rd member drops. I am glad I did because it dropped while it was going up. The blocks cushioned the drop.

Agree with the comment to replace the seals and bearings if you dont know age. They are cheap and then you know all is new.

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Hopefully finishing up the replacement of pretty much everything on all four drums except the adjuster and backing plate.

This is my first major project on the car and my first time really messing with brakes, so I also just wanted to see if everything looks good to yall.

So far I have the front done, and should be done with the rear today if the rain stays away.

OP0hmhi.jpg

2uCqw5k.jpg

HW948RP.jpg

JuXSgFy.jpg

 

Also wondering what these are, they came in the brake hardware kit. Didn't pull anything like that off the front, so I'm guessing its for the rear? I will find out later I guess.

 

1t0iyH1.jpg

 

They are for the parking brake

 

There is no problem with drum brakes just fade if used over and over under hard stops and do not shed water like a disc does so not good wet.

One thing that is overlooked on drum brakes by most is to have the linings ground to fit the drum diameter. A shop with brake lathe might still have one of the grinders to re arch the linings. You already have them on the car but if you had put them inside the drum you would see that they probably are not the same diameter as the drum unless both are new. Here is link to simplified diagram of what you get without the correct arch. https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=arc+grinding+brake+shoes&view=detailv2&id=B16EAEB3910824A4A613648BA8F412E12964F3BE&selectedindex=42&ccid=HJ5NaJ9f&simid=608027118106905906&thid=OIP.M1c9e4d689f5fa1850390fb115f171ed6o0&mode=overlay&first=1

You end up with just an inch or so of the lining actually hitting the drum surface and poor braking. If you have the correct arch you get full contact all around the brake drum and more surface contact than disc brakes can give. They will wear in some but takes a lot of time. If you drums have been turned they for sure should have re cut the arch on the linings. I have a AMMCO brake lathe but still looking for a use grinder for the shoes. It does take away some of the life of the lining but you will have much better brakes.

After you rough adjust the linings out until they barely touch the drum the go to a safe place and go in reverse and hit the brakes hard. As the linings rock in the backing plate it makes the self adjuster work and correctly adjust the brakes. Do this several times and they should be good to go. Again in a parking lot with room get up to say 35 mph and slam on the brakes going forward and if you have any brake locking up before other you might need to back off the adjuster some. You can have great brakes with drums that will stop straight and give good service. You will actually get better gas mileage with drum brakes since the disc brakes drag the pads all the time. There is no spring returns on a disc brake but the drum linings have the heavy springs that pull them off the drum surface so no drag. When qualifying in NASCAR they insert springs to hold the disc brake pads off the rotors to give just a little more speed.

One test I like to do before taking any old car out is sitting in the driveway press on the brakes with both feet applying all the pressure you can. If there is a weak place in a metal or rubber line in the brakes it will blow then instead of when you are coming up behind someone in a panic stop. The rubber hoses should be changed front and back if they are original. They break down inside and sometimes restrict the flow of fluid or could rupture. Since 1966 Ford has had the double reservoir in the master cylinder so if you blow one of the seals you will still have some brakes. With just the one like in 65 when it blows the pedal hits the floor and you better be reaching for the emergency brake.

Glad you are doing some of you own work I am sure you can do better than some of the garages I hear about.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Yep, front drums.

It should do fine for now, it is only $400, give or take, to replace almost everything on all 4 corners, compared to upwards of $1k just for the front conversion. I plan to put discs on the front eventually, but its not priority.

Also, thanks for that information OMS and CMM.

The drums and shoes are both new, so I should be fine. I will keep it in mind though for when inevitably do more brake work on another car, probably my 85 Riv.

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Hard to do other than the weight? I would like to swap gears and would rather remove the third member myself to save a couple hundred bucks.

 

It is very easy. Remove the rear wheels. 4 bolts on each axel flange and pull the axels put. Remove the ten nuts around the third member break loose slowly to drain off the fluid. It is heavy but a jack is not necessary. It wasn't that bad to pull out and rotate to get around the mufflers and down while laying on my back.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Hard to do other than the weight? I would like to swap gears and would rather remove the third member myself to save a couple hundred bucks.

 

It is very easy. Remove the rear wheels. 4 bolts on each axel flange and pull the axels put. Remove the ten nuts around the third member break loose slowly to drain off the fluid. It is heavy but a jack is not necessary. It wasn't that bad to pull out and rotate to get around the mufflers and down while laying on my back.

 

Sweet, Thanks.

1971 Mustang Grande, 351 Cleveland 2v, C6, 9"

-Fitech EFI

-Comp Cams 284hr

-Aussie Heads

-Weiand Xcelerator intake

-Long Tube Headers

-Boss Hogg "Street Bandit"

 

 

My Build

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Put some illegal US license plates on my UK car. My car is eligible for black and white plates but the UK font is different, however most cops are in the 20s/30s and won't have a clue about old cars with B/W plates. So worth taking the risk!

 

IMG_4245_zps4fabvcrr.jpg

 

IMG_4254_zpscquglzxe.jpg

Mark

 

 

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Tried to establish a selling price to end my pain!!!

 

Seriously I cleaned brake lamp contacts and replaced bulbs, disconnected the PMGR starter to avoid problems. Installed the power window relay on the Shock tower per the factory assembly manual, then controlled my temper as I found that the NEW brake proportioning valve from Scott Drake is leaking!!!!!

 

WTF!!!! I had my original leak, so I rebuilt with a kit only to have it leak, so I replace it with a brand new Scott Drake unit to avoid my assembly errors and the SOB Leaks on me. Right out that bottom bolt. Any suggestions??

 

kcmash

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Tried to establish a selling price to end my pain!!!

 

Seriously I cleaned brake lamp contacts and replaced bulbs, disconnected the PMGR starter to avoid problems. Installed the power window relay on the Shock tower per the factory assembly manual, then controlled my temper as I found that the NEW brake proportioning valve from Scott Drake is leaking!!!!!

 

WTF!!!! I had my original leak, so I rebuilt with a kit only to have it leak, so I replace it with a brand new Scott Drake unit to avoid my assembly errors and the SOB Leaks on me. Right out that bottom bolt. Any suggestions??

 

kcmash

 

Drink three stiff glasses of bourbon and call me in the morning.rofl

Let me check your shorts!

http://midlifeharness.com

cactus.jpg.92e5d9d8700abc0ed60c8ccb3426248e.jpg

 

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Tried to establish a selling price to end my pain!!!

 

Seriously I cleaned brake lamp contacts and replaced bulbs, disconnected the PMGR starter to avoid problems. Installed the power window relay on the Shock tower per the factory assembly manual, then controlled my temper as I found that the NEW brake proportioning valve from Scott Drake is leaking!!!!!

 

WTF!!!! I had my original leak, so I rebuilt with a kit only to have it leak, so I replace it with a brand new Scott Drake unit to avoid my assembly errors and the SOB Leaks on me. Right out that bottom bolt. Any suggestions??

 

kcmash

 

Drink three stiff glasses of bourbon and call me in the morning.rofl

 

CRAP, I'm already on glass 6 and the alarm goes off at 5am sharp!

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Tried to establish a selling price to end my pain!!!

 

Seriously I cleaned brake lamp contacts and replaced bulbs, disconnected the PMGR starter to avoid problems. Installed the power window relay on the Shock tower per the factory assembly manual, then controlled my temper as I found that the NEW brake proportioning valve from Scott Drake is leaking!!!!!

 

WTF!!!! I had my original leak, so I rebuilt with a kit only to have it leak, so I replace it with a brand new Scott Drake unit to avoid my assembly errors and the SOB Leaks on me. Right out that bottom bolt. Any suggestions??

 

kcmash

 

I feel you pain, I went through the same type of thing this spring. I had leaks out of absolutely everything. I had a rocker fail. Milky oil from condensation. Starter that was hanging up and stealing power from the coil causing the engine to die after a second or two. Failed brake booster. I'm sure there was more but I can't even remember anymore.

 

Midlife gave you the best advice. Walk away (or drink) for a bit and then tackle it form a different angle.

1971 Mustang Grande, 351 Cleveland 2v, C6, 9"

-Fitech EFI

-Comp Cams 284hr

-Aussie Heads

-Weiand Xcelerator intake

-Long Tube Headers

-Boss Hogg "Street Bandit"

 

 

My Build

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You can try untightening and then retightening the bolt. However, the bottom bolt relies on an oring so maybe the oring was not properly seated or got pinched. If the above doesnt work you may need to replace the oring. Unfortunately, it is messy since it is the bottom bolt.

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I vacuumed out the interior.

 

I am a member of a local Jeep club. On the second Wednesday of each month we have a meet and greet at a local pizza place. Most everyone brings their Jeep.

 

This Wednesday we are doing it a little different. One of the ladies rolled her Jeep on an annual run. She's okay but the jeep is not. So everyone is going to show up this Wednesday without their Jeep. Needless to say, it's a great time to pull in with the old Mustang. Jeep folks love old cars so it should be fun.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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I am working on installing my new Pioneer Sound system along with Pioneer 480 Watt Power amp. I have created a wood panel to mount into the open area between the back seat and the trunk area.

 

Also, preparing to install my third Brake light kit.

 

50n0n5.jpg

 

Source: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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I am working on installing my new Pioneer Sound system along with Pioneer 480 Watt Power amp. I have created a wood panel to mount into the open area between the back seat and the trunk area.

 

Also, preparing to install my third Brake light kit.

 

50n0n5.jpg

 

Source: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

 

mustang7173

 

 

You scared me. Before I read the post I saw the picture and at first thought you were going to put lights in your hood openings!

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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Is there a good way to determine if the axels seals and bearing are good or need replaced? They were not leaking and not making any noise prior to removal. Just done want to put back together and have to take back apart.

 

They are cheap so if you don't know the age or condition replace them. Be sure to get some that knows how to press the new one's on if they do not press by the inner race can damage new bearing. They also need the correct clamp to go around the old bearing to prevent the thing from exploding. If you try to press off just using the outer race to support they can shatter and fly like a grenade.

I have cut them off with torch just getting close to axle then toss in cold water and they will break and then fall off. The steel ring that goes on after the bearing is same way. If not experienced with torch don't do it. A good parts house should have a press.

A long piece of pipe that fits over the axle and hits only the inner race can be used in a jam to push the bearing and ring on.

 

Good call. They are fairly inexpensive. My local O'Reilly's stocks them from National. Anyone have experience with this brand of bearing and seal?

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/RW207CCRA/03336.oap?year=1973&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=5139472&ck=Search_C0055_5139472_796&pt=C0055&ppt=C0337

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/9569S/03411.oap?year=1973&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=5139472&ck=Search_C0055_5139472_796&pt=C0055&ppt=C0337

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Is there a good way to determine if the axels seals and bearing are good or need replaced? They were not leaking and not making any noise prior to removal. Just done want to put back together and have to take back apart.

 

They are cheap so if you don't know the age or condition replace them. Be sure to get some that knows how to press the new one's on if they do not press by the inner race can damage new bearing. They also need the correct clamp to go around the old bearing to prevent the thing from exploding. If you try to press off just using the outer race to support they can shatter and fly like a grenade.

I have cut them off with torch just getting close to axle then toss in cold water and they will break and then fall off. The steel ring that goes on after the bearing is same way. If not experienced with torch don't do it. A good parts house should have a press.

A long piece of pipe that fits over the axle and hits only the inner race can be used in a jam to push the bearing and ring on.

 

Good call. They are fairly inexpensive. My local O'Reilly's stocks them from National. Anyone have experience with this brand of bearing and seal?

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/RW207CCRA/03336.oap?year=1973&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=5139472&ck=Search_C0055_5139472_796&pt=C0055&ppt=C0337

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/9569S/03411.oap?year=1973&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=5139472&ck=Search_C0055_5139472_796&pt=C0055&ppt=C0337

Pretty sure they are all made off shore. There are still some Timken bearings made here but not many. You can also check at a bearing distributor but you need the number for the bearing and they probably will not include the locking ring either. I use to get the transmission bearings at Bearing Distributor or much less that at parts house or Ford. Times have changed.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Saved the last few pennies to have my car painted

 

That's awesome! I'm starting a painting fund, even though my paint still looks pretty good, I figure in 3 years I'll have enough for an Econo paint job. lol

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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will e

 

That made me chuckle!

 

mustang7173

 

 

I am working on installing my new Pioneer Sound system along with Pioneer 480 Watt Power amp. I have created a wood panel to mount into the open area between the back seat and the trunk area.

 

Also, preparing to install my third Brake light kit.

 

50n0n5.jpg

 

Source: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

 

mustang7173

 

 

You scared me. Before I read the post I saw the picture and at first thought you were going to put lights in your hood openings!

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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Replaced both headlights as the driver´s side one had a hole caused by some road debris. Looks much better with new lenses and I guess it will increase visibility at night.

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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Well again not working on the car but working on garage. I got most of the work room framed in and wiring ran. I had the two post lift on my trailer and needed to unload, 1,600+ lbs,. No lift or help humm how do I do this. I backed the trailer into the garage and started taking everything off that I could and got down to the two main posts still heavy. I could barely lift one end. So I set up blocks and ended up getting everything lifted by hand enough to get the trailer out. Went and got an engine hoist and then picked the columns up and got to the floor. Now to figure out how to stand them up. I still need that Chinese gal to massage my sore muscles at night, lol. Maybe in a month they will pass the inspection and I can move cars in for the winter. When you are 68 and have to do everything to save bucks it takes time.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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David

 

Look into renting a "hand crank telescoping portable forklift".

 

I had to use one a few times for hoisting up pillars and beams for bearing wall remodels in the past.

 

Good Luck

Paul

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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David:

When I unloaded my lift (by myself), I used my engine hoist and grabbed the upright beam as close to the center of gravity as I could. I then moved it around such that when I raised the hoist, I could lower the foot down on the floor about where I wanted it and could upright the post using the engine hoist as a lever point. Piece of cake!

Let me check your shorts!

http://midlifeharness.com

cactus.jpg.92e5d9d8700abc0ed60c8ccb3426248e.jpg

 

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David:

When I unloaded my lift (by myself), I used my engine hoist and grabbed the upright beam as close to the center of gravity as I could. I then moved it around such that when I raised the hoist, I could lower the foot down on the floor about where I wanted it and could upright the post using the engine hoist as a lever point. Piece of cake!

 

Was going to play with it tomorrow to see what I could do. I have also just ran ad on craigslist and got several strong backs quick to lift things. That is how I got the walls up paid $30.00 and done.

Got to keep moving paying too much for storage each month ticks by.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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