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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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Guest Pastel Blue

Errrr...:@

 

I finally put my completed dash assembly back in the car today, hooked up all the wires and went to connect the engine comp fuse block to the main interior fuse block and it would not fit...

 

You got to be kidding, not...

 

It appears that when I put the interior steering column brace back together (4 pieces), the small plate that holds the fuse box connection was put in upside down/backwards whatever... this causes the fuse block halves to be out of alignment when you go to connect them. You check, double check and still something is missed.

 

Oh well, now I get to go back out now and disassemble stuff... to turn the plate around so that the fuse box will fit correctly.

 

Unbelievable. So close... :whistling:

 

 

... Success... everything good to go.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks great!!! All stock?

Thanks

 

Tim

Tucson, Az

1973 SportsRoof

351C bored .040

Crank .020  and Stock cam

Flattop pistons

Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE

Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold

 

NewPrimedHood_zpsw2jaj0cu.jpg

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What brand are the coil overs? Any reason for keeping the stock strut rod?

Looks so new and so cool....

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Upper control arms are Maier Racing.  Coil overs are JRI (made for Maier).  Lower control arms are Hotchkis.  As best as I can tell many of the Maier products are actually made by Chris Alston's shop for Maier.  When I went to Maier Racing a couple years ago I saw the ball and socket type strut rod mount they make and bought them.  They are very light, strong, and don't restrict movement at all.  They also keep the pivot as far forward as it can be so you don't alter your caster as much as your front suspension moves like you do with the kits that use a heim joint and move the pivot point rearward.  However they have no seal whatsoever and are not the best for the street because of that.

 

I ended up buying the Total Control strut rod setup since it is more of a street friendly setup... I just don't have it yet.

 

Here is a pic of the Maier strut rod pivot.  The cups are aluminum, the spherical halfs are a nylon of some sort.  

 

IMG_1784.jpg

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Awesome...

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Being that it is unseasonably warm (70's in Iowa in February) I got the steering box pulled to be sent off for rebuild and conversion to quick ratio. Also go the block all cleaned up and ready for paint so I am planning on doing that today at lunch.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I drove mine to work today! First cruise in of the year tonight in honor of high 60s in February.

 

So far I've driven in January and February... 10 months to go! LOL

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Well I wish I could say I had done something significant, but all I accomplished last night was to build a seat base to mount the passenger side Kirkey aluminum seat. It is just a pair of gutted rails with 1/2 wide steel strips welded to them to support the aluminum brackets. It did come out square and I have 1/16th of an inch total clearance between the seat and brackets so it is shug. Hit it with a coat of roll bar paint. Still need a few pieces of hardware before I mount the seat though.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Got the block painted up at lunch. It was still a little chilly in the garage 60 degrees but 76 outside. So I took the heat gun to the block to heat it up slightly so it wasn't as cool (obviously I'm not heating up a cast iron block very much with a heat gun). Turned out pretty good. Painted the block while still assembled with the old heads and such since the new heads, water pump, and intake were done already. Now to start the tear down of the top end. Paint laid down really nice. I am happy with the results. (And Yes I know it is not the correct blue, it is a custom mix that I wanted)

engine1.thumb.jpg.00ad505ab680c9148561e137659f8a65.jpg

engine2.thumb.jpg.52f1d4b8c26533dcec7fed8b439ebac2.jpg

engine3.thumb.jpg.7e8f3918d3df8744dc4b8130d82999f9.jpg

engine4.thumb.jpg.cb28c8a2bc778809a9cee6290e921065.jpg

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got a couple coats of single stage on the engine compartment.

 

Now it is time for some assembly!

 

 

That looks so clean... leave it as is [emoji1] [emoji1]

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I swapped out my Jeep for the Mustang at Mom's house today. Drove it home with the top down, 80 degrees and cloudy. It ran great. It just doesn't get much better.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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Guest Pastel Blue

That royal PITA job of adding the blackout to the all chrome aftermarket '71 tail light assembly lenses... Time consuming but the end result was worth it...

IMG_0037.JPG.2bfd52e7f0ca6c7075883916fa77f337.JPG

IMG_0036.JPG.6b20166e5a00a7d7edc0641661d45992.JPG

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That royal PITA job of adding the blackout to the all chrome aftermarket '71 tail light assembly lenses... Time consuming but the end result was worth it...

Nice.... i finally understand where is the blackout. I read about it but it was not clear until i saw your picture. Awesome.

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Took the car out today to blow out all the cob webs. Ran really well and didn't miss a beat.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Continue working with the trunk. Welded the inner fender pieces on Thursday, preped on Saturday and brushed 3 coats of Rust Bullet today.

 

Today it went from this,

20170305_000605.thumb.jpg.b03ce3486b6ef6122a7a5ebc1912fd26.jpg

 

To this,

20170305_224453.thumb.jpg.730eb3ef8e392c43f41d9ce38344d31a.jpg

 

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Continue working with the trunk. Welded the inner fender pieces on Thursday, preped on Saturday and brushed 3 coats of Rust Bullet today.

 

Today it went from this,

 

 

To this,

 

 

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

Nice work!!

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Not a damn thing, but I got my Harley running and started working on getting my Buell White Lightning back to the land of the living-new battery and ignition coil, pulled the carb and disassembled it and cleaned out some gunk that I guess was ethanol related-looked like bacon grease or lanolin, Need a few new gaskets and the accelerator pump is working but of questionable condition. Parts on order-should take an hour to put it back together and reinstall on bike. Fingers crossed it will work.

 

So now I have a few days to get back to putting the last bits of the interior in the mustang until I can get to the lift and weld some anchor plates in for the harnesses

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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That royal PITA job of adding the blackout to the all chrome aftermarket '71 tail light assembly lenses... Time consuming but the end result was worth it...

 

Very nice result! Shame the '73 wasn't like this. I like the black much more!

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I wanted to replace the turn signal hardware and wiring, thought it wouldn't be hard. I was wrong...

 

Took me 2 hours to get it disconnected:

 

IMG_4271.JPG

 

And then I was missing a socket thin enough to get the bloody screws out:

 

IMG_4276.JPG

 

End of story until I get thinner sockets...

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Cleaned up and painted the front and rear windshield channels in preparation for the headliner installation. When I took down the original headliner I found a total mess left by deteriorating insulation and mice presents. I cannot believe the previous owner, who was an electrician, wired the map light using lamp cord and wire nuts, WTF !!! lol

IMG_4724.jpg

 

IMG_4725.jpg

 

free image hosting

 

IMG_4705.jpg

 

image hosting

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