Jump to content

What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
 Share

Recommended Posts

Thanks. Let's just say I'm glad I took tons of reference pics during disassembly as well as bagging and tagging everything. Like has been mentioned on here before. Even if you plan to use new hardware still save and bag and tag everything. It makes a great reference for reassembly.

Yeah... this is one of those tips that cant be stressed enough. Even taking pictures and notes can leave you sometimes scratching your head.

The shop manuals are a great complement, and off course this forum.

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20210826_100810-mod-s.jpg.52aeaedc03b0419348700fb9c465e338.jpg

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Pastel Blue

Currently working on the small stuff, windows, seats, hardware etc., every piece needs some kind of refurbishing, this car was driven a lot and hard in its previous life... Got the seat frames back from the powder coating place today. Turned out nice, good price, $160 to do the full front buckets and rear seat frames. Also spent some time refurbishing the window cranks, difficult to find nice originals today. Glad I did work on them, as they shine up real nice with some elbow grease. Before and after pic included.

1119958724_Bucketseatspowdercoated.jpg.3938afd274b37943b0844eff70a6c2ee.jpg

1115351785_Windowcranksrestoration.jpg.943d361e9ea21f499da16d9a3d5b4cdd.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

seat frames came out nice. That is a great price on the powder coating.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice day here in NJ was able to paint my interior parts outside. The white looks must better, in my opinion than the avacaldo and the dash & package shelf in sem trim black.  

Another step towards getting the glass back in ......

 

228x170https://preview.ibb.co/ciMn3v/IMG_4799.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

White does look better.

Thanks

 

Tim

Tucson, Az

1973 SportsRoof

351C bored .040

Crank .020  and Stock cam

Flattop pistons

Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE

Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold

 

NewPrimedHood_zpsw2jaj0cu.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the heads mounted and the valve train components in and adjusted properly.

IMG_2642.jpg

 

IMG_2643.jpg

 

how to upload photos from

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Schweet ::thumb::

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally finished the floor replacement and got it in primer today.

I used Bill Hirsch's Miracle paint where there was surface rust and along the welded areas then primed with Interguard 269 Epoxy Primer

P1020916.thumb.jpg.71b1993d6c9fea3bde2e41cc0c476a87.jpg

P1020921.thumb.jpg.d774bcd115e6e3e5213a83330bccca57.jpg

P1020923.thumb.jpg.594db01f3e980657e3e00dc55e03d579.jpg

P1030238.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's in the upholstery shop for a new top! Cloth with a glass back window... ;-)

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jay,

 

Hope the parts turned out OK.

 

Now that's what i call painting in the wild frontier! :D :D :D :D

 

A man, his gun , and the great outdoors. :P

 

 

Greg. :P

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got some more work done on the motor. Starting test fitting the new belts and pulleys from CVF. Nice stuff. Getting closer. Also should have my steering box back from powersteering.com from the rebuild and conversion to quick ratio next week. Gotta get this done so I can get back out and enjoy the season!!!

engine_2.jpg

 

html photo hosting

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the wiring all pulled and bagged up so I can steam clean the engine bay tomorrow.

IMG_2700.jpg

 

IMG_2701.jpg

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bought a vacuum bleeder. Started with the rear left brake and bubbles never stopped coming out. Then I thought that air may be getting in through the bleeder screw threads appearing to be in the system. Also, air can go in between the hose and bleeder. Daahhh.... I thought it was going to be a slam and dunk process, but not! I wonder how do you know when the "system" air is gone. I may not be understanding the vacuum bleeding process, but it seems to me that I wasted my money. I ended up vacuum bleeding some more fluid and then did the old true method of depressing the pedal. Since I don't have a 2nd person, I used the stick between the seat and pedal trick.

20210826_100810-mod-s.jpg.52aeaedc03b0419348700fb9c465e338.jpg

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Started measuring my crank for bearings. Anyone here an oil clearance guru? I am going to measure again tomorrow when I am a little more awake but my clearances are .0009-.0014 assuming a stock main to be 2.7490 and a rod to be 2.3110. I have cheap micrometers and the 2" gauge measures 2.0002 for me, I just ordered a bore gauge to double check but I would like to be sure of my numbers. The ideal range is .0010-.0020, with acceptable being .0010-.0030 right? 

IxF1Ccjl.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bought a vacuum bleeder. Started with the rear left brake and bubbles never stopped coming out. Then I thought that air may be getting in through the bleeder screw threads appearing to be in the system. Also, air can go in between the hose and bleeder. Daahhh.... I thought it was going to be a slam and dunk process, but not! I wonder how do you know when the "system" air is gone. I may not be understanding the vacuum bleeding process, but it seems to me that I wasted my money. I ended up vacuum bleeding some more fluid and then did the old true method of depressing the pedal. Since I don't have a 2nd person, I used the stick between the seat and pedal trick.

 

You need to get rid of the stick and find a friend! lollerz

But seriously, I have always had better luck bleeding them manually with someone pumping the brake pedal for me.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I picked the car up Friday from the upholsterer, a brand new sta-fast cloth top! I'll post a pic when I can.

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the engine bay degreased, cleaned, scrubbed, cleaned again, prepped and in primer/sealer. Will lay down paint tonight (going with Semi-gloss black) and start the process of cleaning up and re-wrapping the wiring harness parts that I completely removed form the car.

 

 

 

enginebay_primer.jpg

 

gif hosting

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"officially" started my engine build expecting to measure bearing clearances with my new bore gauge but ended up just cleaning the garage and engine parts thoroughly. 

 

Can I remove surface rust from the main journals with a scotch brite pad or should I just leave it? It is very minor, so much so that I couldn't get a picture of it. It almost looks like a few tiny raindrops, very small spots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had taken out the antenna later last year to work in the engine bay. Today i screwed it back in and for some reason i hate it how it looked. Took it out again. I dont feel i want to remove the base so i just have to find a way to nicely plug the hole of the base.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

20210826_100810-mod-s.jpg.52aeaedc03b0419348700fb9c465e338.jpg

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Checked my main bearing oil clearance. Set my micrometer to the average of all the readings I took from the crank and zero'd the bore gauge. Read the difference and compared the min/max to the average. Looks like the crank is in great shape since my clearance is 0.0012-0.0015. I have one looser bearing which will go to the highest average measuring crank journal. I'm going to do the rod bearings next and if they check out I will gap the rings and assemble the bottom end over the weekend. 

5wDOV7Sl.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh joy. Please allow me to vent my frustration. I only wanted to finally change the oil today and then hopefully take it out for its first spin of the year and find out if everything I've done during the winter (which isn't that much really, but still) is working.

 

So I get it up on my hydraulic ramps and let the oil out. To get it all out I wanted to lower the car but forgot I had the safeties still on the ramps. The left ramp started vomitting all it's hydraulic fluid and is now stuck.

 

Fan -%#$&ˆ@- tastic.

 

Spend the rest of my time making sure this contraption won't collapse while I'm away. Tomorrow my garage-neighbour is going to help me to get the car down again after which I can hopefully complete the oil change and still go for a wee drive.

 

Oh, and I bloody well hope I can find the receipt of that damn ramp!

 

PS: Lifting the oil pressure with the safeties on is supposed to work. I believe it is actually recommended to get the safeties in a locked position while working under the car.

 

IMG_4774.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear that. I dont think it should have spill the oil that way. Sounds like a bad seal or pressure regulator or similar.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

20210826_100810-mod-s.jpg.52aeaedc03b0419348700fb9c465e338.jpg

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...