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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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OK. My neighbour helped me out this morning and we got it down pretty quick. That was quite a relief.

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Bought a vacuum bleeder. Started with the rear left brake and bubbles never stopped coming out. Then I thought that air may be getting in through the bleeder screw threads appearing to be in the system. Also, air can go in between the hose and bleeder. Daahhh.... I thought it was going to be a slam and dunk process, but not! I wonder how do you know when the "system" air is gone. I may not be understanding the vacuum bleeding process, but it seems to me that I wasted my money. I ended up vacuum bleeding some more fluid and then did the old true method of depressing the pedal. Since I don't have a 2nd person, I used the stick between the seat and pedal trick.

 

You need to get rid of the stick and find a friend! lollerz

But seriously, I have always had better luck bleeding them manually with someone pumping the brake pedal for me.

 

I finally bought some 'speed bleeders'.  They are like the normal bleeding valves but they include a check valve and ball.  So much easier.  I won't ever go back. ;)

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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I fired up the Mustang today. It is at my mom's house and hasn't been started in about 2 months. A bit of starting fluid and the girl fired right up. I didn't get to drive it much this winter (best time in Phoenix) because I was driving the Jeep and trying to get out 'wheeling'. I need a 4 car garage!

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

cc'ed my Aussie heads.. To my (pleasant) suprise I came up with 62-63cc on every chamber. It looks like my local speed shop used a dished valve to add a little more chamber volume. This puts me at a very streetable static compression ratio (still didn't measure deck height, but should be 10-10.5:1).

 

GpQRmbcl.jpg

 I also bought a cam bearing tool, and am sweating installing the cam bearings but that's the next project. After that I will paint the engine (going to try POR15 brush on gold color) and assemble the rotator, which will allow me to measure deck clearance and pick out my cam.

 

 I am still unsure about the direction I am going for fuel, the fitech setup is nice but I am leaning towards keeping my megasquirt setup but upgrading to an MS3 computer since it would allow me to keep multi point injection and run 2 o2 sensors.

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Decided to just give the cam bearings a shot before going out for Mother's day. Seemed uneventful, which was relieving since it was my first time doing them. Only problem is I don't have a cam, so I can't test fit anything. I guess at this point I am committing to a 10.2:1 static compression ratio and will play with the gasket thickness depending on what I measure the deck clearance to be. I'm going to talk to my local speed shop about the cam but I am estimating something like a 280º advertised duration solid roller with a 110º LSA. It will probably be a custom grind Comp, that seems to be the way the they said to go. Can't wait to start getting nickel and dimed by the stupid guide plates, studs and lifters  ::thumb:: (and $400 rockers that I "need") . I think it will be worth it in the end. 

wjh8NEDl.jpg

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Took the family for a ride in the Mustang. I loaded everyone in the garage and when i backed up i was hitting the lift underneath the car. I never had that problem before. So i am thinking what's different. Did the suspension drop, did an engine mount fail, did the tires lose air? So i am thinking for a while and then the light bulb when off. My wife is in the car. More weight brings the car down. She didn't appreciate that one.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Today finally got some color on it. Luckily the weather held out. Came out pretty good and will do the rad support and chassis rails in black tomorrow hopefully.

 

Looks like you missed a piece mate ;-)

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I cursed and swore at it and bled on it. But I got the passenger side of the front suspension completely rebuilt. Hoping the driver's side goes easier for two reasons. I've done one side already and that is the side the engine was leaking oil on so everything should be well lubed up.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Finally finished the floor replacement and got it in primer today.

I used Bill Hirsch's Miracle paint where there was surface rust and along the welded areas then primed with Interguard 269 Epoxy Primer

 

So RHD did you convert? Air conditioner would be tough to find here in US but not there I guess.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Cursed and bled on it some more last night. Got the drivers side done. Hoping the steering coupler and idler arm I ordered that are coming today fit better than the ones I ordered previously. If so I will get everything back together tonight. The Moog idler arm sucks something fierce. I was able to find a Proforged 102-10076 Idler Arm on Amazon which has been discontinued for quite some time but I have heard from several that it fits properly. I am now trying a Lars 201 steering coupler from Rock Auto, the Scott Drake one I purchased is completely wrong, nubs are too short and it would not even go on my steering gear box.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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My son, home from his first year of university, and I dropped the front wheels and adjusted the coilovers to raise the front to solve some interference problems with the sway bar. This also leveled the car out nicely. On the wheels it appears all is good with a minor shortening of the sway bar LCA links needed. Tomorrow we will confirm and tweak the links as necessary then perform a full interference check. We also need to run the steering lock to lock to confirm break lines are OK. Once determined all is OK we will align it, reconfirm interference and then give it a run. Throw it up on the lift re-confirm all is OK once more, re-torque everything and be done with what has been somewhat of a PITA installation. Hoping to be finished in a couple of days.

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Today finally got some color on it. Luckily the weather held out. Came out pretty good and will do the rad support and chassis rails in black tomorrow hopefully.

 

Looks like you missed a piece mate ;-)

 

Nope just had to wait until next day to chassis black the rest, got it done but the rain came 5 minutes after last coat, no big deal just a few water marks on the rad support

P1030238.jpg
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Finally finished the floor replacement and got it in primer today.

I used Bill Hirsch's Miracle paint where there was surface rust and along the welded areas then primed with Interguard 269 Epoxy Primer

 

So RHD did you convert? Air conditioner would be tough to find here in US but not there I guess.

 

Many owners ago they started the conversion, I've had to fix all their problems as they made a mess of it, they used Aussie Falcon steering but spaced the box incorrectly and didn't do the chassis rail/firewall mods well so rather than try to correct it and probably still have geometry issues i decided to go for a RRS power rack & pinion set up for RHD, expensive but will solve the problem and give improved steering. As for air con I have purchased an Old Air complete kit which has been set up for RHD and will use my original a/c dash control etc. Yet to install it so can't report yet but will post in my build thread. When I purchased the car it was missing some parts but thanks to some forum members parts are easy to get and not expensive except for the shipping charges which are sometimes more than what the part is worth. That's what I get for living near one of the world's most remote cities!

P1030238.jpg
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Installed the A/C compressor, heat exchanger, dryer and lines in the 73 convertible... what a pain getting at all the bracket bolts!

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

DSC_0266xsm.jpg

satellite.png Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

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Painted my block and I think it is just what I was looking for. The car is OD green, and I wanted a copper engine paint but also wanted a brush on, so I compromised with POR15 Olds gold. I really think it's going to look good with black valve covers, aluminum intake and a fresh satin black engine bay. 

ip6GVcWl.jpg

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For those of you who grew tired of my wheels threads here's a small update. Over the weekend I put some rings on my bastardized Magnum 500- dog dish rims and I really like what see. Let's see how long that'll last. :)

 

attachment.php?aid=45087attachment.php?aid=45086

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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For those of you who grew tired of my wheels threads here's a small update. Over the weekend I put some rings on my bastardized Magnum 500- dog dish rims and I really like what see. Let's see how long that'll last. :)

 

attachment.php?aid=45087attachment.php?aid=45086

 

That looks better, lets see what you can come up with next time

P1030238.jpg
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Got the bitch back in. Motor and trans as one unit. Me and my one armed buddy.

IMG_2786.jpg

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Got the bitch back in. Motor and trans as one unit. Me and my one armed buddy.

 

Awesome. Did you leave the headers on, or in the engine bay, or off?

Did you install the fan later or in with the engine?

I see you used the carb plate. Did that work well with engine and trans?

 

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Installed less headers. Fan was on the car. Wasn't too bad.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Trying to decide which filter to keep, the RAM Air or the offset one. I had to modify the RAM Air to fit under the hood because I am using a 1" spacer between the EFI and manifold (I didn't modify the original one, but one that I found used). Thoughts? Obviously the "RAM" effect would be limited with the simple filter.

 

Modified RAM Air filter w/o snorkel:

20170523_235115.jpg

 

Offset simple filter:

20170520_231232.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Technically nothing.. but also technically alot. Dropped of a deposit on my solid roller cam (unknown specs at the moment) and all the things to make it work today. My local engine builder couldn't find anything in the comp book he liked so he will let me know when he finds something on Tuesday (Monday is a holiday). I really just need to figure out my fuel system at this point but I'm leaning towards megasquirt 3 so I can keep all the custom injection stuff I already have and run 2 o2 sensors. Here's a pic for no raisin:

y8sR0FLl.jpg

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