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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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Update, block sanded again and trimmed up rear tail light area, set trunk lid and fit quarter end caps.

It will be all green sooooon !!!! 

Thanks , Jay 

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Checked the front wheel bearings for a noise. Didn't find anything so repacked them and put them back in. Noise is much better now so I guess I did find something without noticing it. :)

 

Did you actually torque the nut on the spindle? I cannot remember off my head would have to look it up. Seems like XX foot lbs. and back off SS amount on the nut, lol. Check might just be a little loose. Sorry I do not remember the amounts.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Front break caliper overhaul as they were rattling like crazy. 

After that I still had some rattling that was caused by the exhaust rattling against the convertible floor reinforcement plate. 

I took care of that by removing the plate and putting a nice dent into the exhaust tube with a hammer so that it clears the reinstalled plate. That's the kind of workmanship I'm really good at. :)

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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It's Green, finally !!!! 

 

 

 

Me likey ::thumb::

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Installed MSD's Street Fire CDI ignition box. A lot of wires. Tried to hide them as much as possible. And yes, the box is installed at an angle. I tried different orientations and this is the one I liked the most.

 

20170713_232219.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Checked the front wheel bearings for a noise. Didn't find anything so repacked them and put them back in. Noise is much better now so I guess I did find something without noticing it. :)

 

Did you actually torque the nut on the spindle? I cannot remember off my head would have to look it up. Seems like XX foot lbs. and back off SS amount on the nut, lol. Check might just be a little loose. Sorry I do not remember the amounts.

 

Yup. Torque to 20, release a half turn and torque again to 17 while the wheel is spinning. I think it might have been a little low on grease.

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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Installed MSD's Street Fire CDI ignition box. A lot of wires. Tried to hide them as much as possible. And yes, the box is installed at an angle. I tried different orientations and this is the one I liked the most.

 

20170713_232219.jpg

 

So today was the first time I drive the car since I installed the Street Fire CDI box. The car's idle was noticeably improved. However, the car got really hot. I am running EFI so I can see the actual temperature on the LCD screen. The temp got up to 220 in idle and car stopped. I don't know if it would have gone higher, but it was creeping higher from 190, which is the normal. I left the engine on in idle for a long time to test if it kept going up. At 220 I revved the engine, and it quickly went down to 205 before I shut it off. It may be completely unrelated to the CDI box, but it has never gotten that hot before. Will there be any relationship between temperature and CDI ignition? Or is it just coincidence and something else is at issue?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I don't think that the CDI box will cause the higher temps. I am using the 6AL and have not run into that problem, what size radiator do you have?

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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I don't think that the CDI box will cause the higher temps.  I am using the 6AL and have not run into that problem, what size radiator do you have?

 

After it cooled down I look in the radiator and it was fairly low in water - I think that may have been the reason :shootself: . My oil looks good, I don't see white smoke coming out the tail pipe and I don't see any obvious leaks. I will refill and monitor.

I am not too worry about radiator size, or a leak, or a flush. I will be taking the motor out at the end of the season to install a 408 kit. The block will get checked and clean at that time. I will also install a new radiator to handle the extra heat at that time.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I agree with John, the CDI box shouldn't effect the temperatures. If filling the radiator doesn't solve it I would check timing and air/fuel ratios. How about your fan? Does it have a clutch?

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Over the weekend, Saturday I pulled the engine and transmission. Sunday I separated them and put the transmission on the transmission jack so it would be easy to move around, and the engine went on the engine stand.

 

Today I am repairing my recliner chair, one of the metal sections broke, I guess it's time for a diet. I welded it and added a section of steel strap. Seems like something always gets in the way of working on the car.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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I agree with John, the CDI box shouldn't effect the temperatures. If filling the radiator doesn't solve it I would check timing and air/fuel ratios. How about your fan? Does it have a clutch?

 

My fan has a clutch and it was turning. Are these fan clutches dual speed? :chin:

 

AF ratio is controlled by the EFI and timing was right at 10 deg as it has been for a while. Since the engine has run well for a long time until just now, I am confident it was a lack of coolant :shootself: . I will have to check the coolant level often until I figure out if there is a leak.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Over the weekend, Saturday I pulled the engine and transmission. Sunday I separated them and put the transmission on the transmission jack so it would be easy to move around, and the engine went on the engine stand.

 

Today I am repairing my recliner chair, one of the metal sections broke, I guess it's time for a diet. I welded it and added a section of steel strap. Seems like something always gets in the way of working on the car.

 

 

I assume you pulled the engine and transmission coupled. Do you typically have to raise the car? How low does the rear of the transmission tips down? I am curious because I have a scissors lift installed under the car which leaves a smaller spacing between the trans and floor than normal. If in the way I could pull the lift back if needed, but it will be nice to know beforehand.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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When I pulled mine coupled together I jacked up the back of the car and put on jack stands. This allows a better angle to get them out and lowers the front rad support to be easier to clear. I was able to get it out fairly easy using a carb plate to lift from and without removing the shifter stub on the T5, but you do have to angle it quite a bit. Once everything was unhooked and labeled it only took about 20 min to pull it.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Today I left my old garage:

 

55026c3d32963c0a3b8c09d8f8087e85.jpg

 

... and drove to the new one. Fits fine:

 

b6bd9ede85a764df1d2052a3adc51cc2.jpg

 

Should be getting main power tomorrow, got a free weekend ahead. Time to arrange my own little shop and figure out what to do with it exactly :-)

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Sweet. So clean looking!

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Today I left my old garage:

 

55026c3d32963c0a3b8c09d8f8087e85.jpg

 

... and drove to the new one. Fits fine:

 

b6bd9ede85a764df1d2052a3adc51cc2.jpg

 

Should be getting main power tomorrow, got a free weekend ahead. Time to arrange my own little shop and figure out what to do with it exactly :-)

Awesome..... car looks beautiful

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Over the weekend, Saturday I pulled the engine and transmission. Sunday I separated them and put the transmission on the transmission jack so it would be easy to move around, and the engine went on the engine stand.

 

Today I am repairing my recliner chair, one of the metal sections broke, I guess it's time for a diet. I welded it and added a section of steel strap. Seems like something always gets in the way of working on the car.

 

 

I assume you pulled the engine and transmission coupled. Do you typically have to raise the car? How low does the rear of the transmission tips down? I am curious because I have a scissors lift installed under the car which leaves a smaller spacing between the trans and floor than normal. If in the way I could pull the lift back if needed, but it will be nice to know beforehand.

 

Yes, I pulled them connected, 351C and C6. I have the car sitting on wheel dollies, so it's about 2 or 3 inches higher than normal. I believe you could probably pull them with the car sitting on the floor. As you begin pulling the engine forward and the bell housing starts clearing the firewall you begin raising them and start tipping the transmission down right before you get to the the radiator support and continue raising them while tipping the transmission down. You just need to make sure everything is disconnected.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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It's sounds like it could be running a bit lean at idle, maybe pull a spark plug at see how it looks for chitz and giggles. The car and engine look great.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I agree with John, the CDI box shouldn't effect the temperatures. If filling the radiator doesn't solve it I would check timing and air/fuel ratios. How about your fan? Does it have a clutch?

 

My fan has a clutch and it was turning. Are these fan clutches dual speed? :chin:

 

AF ratio is controlled by the EFI and timing was right at 10 deg as it has been for a while. Since the engine has run well for a long time until just now, I am confident it was a lack of coolant :shootself: . I will have to check the coolant level often until I figure out if there is a leak.

 

The fans are kind of variable speed. As the clutch gets hotter it locks up more. When the temperature of the air coming through the radiator gets to the 190° - 200° range the clutch sould be pretty much locked up and turning at the pulley speed. So, when it is hot (and the engine shut off) you shouldn't be able to easily turn it by hand. When cool it should be easy to turn the fan by hand. Some clutches are also speed dependant and when the pulley reaches a certain RPM the clutch locks up.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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-Adjusted kick down rod on FMX now downshifts properly

- replaced hood springs! It stays up now!

 

Cheers,

 

Brad

My Original (from High School!) 1972 Mach 1 / 2014 F150 / 2018 Porsche Panamera

 

 

 

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