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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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Got the second to last coat of paint on the engine bay. Used POR15 top coat. It looks perfect sheen wise to me, I just need to touch up a few spots.

WmsJvGfl.jpg

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Put in a piston to measure my deck clearance and it was way more than I expected. I measured .035" and even double checked with a feeler gage. I was planning on 10.2:1 compression and this will put me at 9.9, which kind of puts my cam out of optimal range. It will work fine on pump gas though, and should sound good. Just ordered head gaskets and a timing chain so I can get it back together. Engine bay is painted to a point I'm happy with it. It should come together in the next month or so.

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I pulled out the lifters and cam, was hoping to be able to use the same cam bearings. The first bearing has quite a bit of pitting, is beyond service specs, and the second one has one small pit. Oh well, I was thinking about installing the TMeyer cam bearings, anyway.

 

I'm glad I finally get around to doing it, a couple of lifters had some minor pitting, the distributor gear was missing about 1/4-inch of one of the teeth, and I could see some wear patterns in a few of the lobes I didn't like. It doesn't have that many miles on it, still got hone marks on the cylinder walls, but you never know just what previous owners did. The roller cam will be a nice improvement.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Got bored and decided the background of my Cragar center caps needed to be body color.  

 

20170726_191207.jpg

 

That looks pretty cool. 

I would have tried to paint the whole recessed area so that it looked like a round insert but maybe that woulda been too much.... I'm wondering.

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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I changed the master cylinder in the 71. It was being a little bitch, but I got it. The damn firewall bolt came out no problem but wouldn't go back in for nothing. So I ran a tap thru it and that took care of that problem. Amazingly enough tg he pedal was rock hard before I did any bleeding. Then we bled all the old fluid out on the lines and took it for a test drive. Now I can jam the brakes and all 4 wheels lock up like they are supposed to. Car tracks straight thru the skid. Got great marks on the pavement showing all 4 tires locked. With the old master it wouldn't lock up no matter how hard you push.

 

It's really nice to have brakes again.

"I drank what?" - Socrates

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Got bored and decided the background of my Cragar center caps needed to be body color.  

 

20170726_191207.jpg

 

That looks pretty cool. 

I would have tried to paint the whole recessed area so that it looked like a round insert but maybe that woulda been too much.... I'm wondering.

Yeah, I'm still taking baby steps with my customizations. Lol. Just trying to change the background color from blue to green.43d4b7f8b609434e076adc0b635916c4.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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Ordered a new battery tie-down kit, and a plug & chug for the coupe. Little things, but I gotta have 'em!

-Trenton C.

 

'71 Coupe - Never ending project

'98 GT - Daily/Never ending project #2

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Assembled the bottom end again. I took it apart because I wasn't happy with the way I installed the rear main seal and I'm glad I did. I got silicone all over the crank and it wasn't spinning nicely. This time I only put a tiny bit of silicone where the halves meet. I didn't put any under the main cap this time though, so I may take it apart yet again and do that. 

 

I can re-torque the crank without pulling out all the pistons, right? 

 

i1gXvUfl.jpg

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Removed the three bolts securing the front license plate holder, and replaced the bolts without the License plate holder itself. I thought that looked better than empty holes. Front plates are generally not required where I live, and I sure think it cleans up the front of the car!

My Original (from High School!) 1972 Mach 1 / 2014 F150 / 2018 Porsche Panamera

 

 

 

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Assembled the bottom end again. I took it apart because I wasn't happy with the way I installed the rear main seal and I'm glad I did. I got silicone all over the crank and it wasn't spinning nicely. This time I only put a tiny bit of silicone where the halves meet. I didn't put any under the main cap this time though, so I may take it apart yet again and do that. 

 

I can re-torque the crank without pulling out all the pistons, right? 

 

I would use a thin coat blue thread sealant (Locktite) at the rear of the main bearing cap. It's an anaerobic and it won't cure until after the cap is bolted down.  All excess will squeeze out and there is no chance of it messing with bearing clearance as is possible with RTV. 

 

Yes, you can remove and replace main bearing cap without removing pistons.

 

Did you set the thrust bearing cap correctly?

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Vehicle being stationary for a few years when I removed the fuel tank it was a bit rusty inside so I refurbished it with a KBS fuel tank repair kit, similar to POR15 but without the price tag.

P1030238.jpg
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Assembled the bottom end again. I took it apart because I wasn't happy with the way I installed the rear main seal and I'm glad I did. I got silicone all over the crank and it wasn't spinning nicely. This time I only put a tiny bit of silicone where the halves meet. I didn't put any under the main cap this time though, so I may take it apart yet again and do that. 

 

I can re-torque the crank without pulling out all the pistons, right? 

 

I would use a thin coat blue thread sealant (Locktite) at the rear of the main bearing cap. It's an anaerobic and it won't cure until after the cap is bolted down.  All excess will squeeze out and there is no chance of it messing with bearing clearance as is possible with RTV. 

 

Yes, you can remove and replace main bearing cap without removing pistons.

 

Did you set the thrust bearing cap correctly?

 

Thanks, I will do that. I will also align the thrust bearing as outlined in my shop manual.

 

edit- DONE, thanks again Don you're definitely a guru. Now I'm just waiting on the timing cover seals and a degree wheel. I plan on degreeing the cam on the lifter before I put the heads on. I don't really want to mess around with removing valve springs and all that.

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I'm finally home from my 3.5 year assignment in China and was able to take my 71 Mach 1 out for it's first ride today.  Overall I am VERY pleased with the car but I have a few things I need to work on.

 

- Pedal slowly goes to the floor at the stop light followed by the "BRAKE" light going on.  A quick pump turns it off.  I'm guessing the brake booster needs to be replaced.  Not surprising for a 50 year old car.

 

- Sounds like there is an exhaust leak on the drivers side front.  Can't see where it's coming from but looking at the exhaust I'd say it's at least 20 years old.  Might be time to replace it.

 

- Boy those dash lights are dim!!!  I have the LED's on order and will be installing them this weekend.

 

For a 46 year old unrestored car I'm pretty pleased.  I have 3 weeks until the Woodward Dream cruise and I'm hoping to get at least the exhaust and lights fixed by then.  I can deal with manual brakes so they will probably be the last thing to fix.

 

I was utterly shocked at the number of looks, thumbs up and positive comments I received while driving this car.  More attention that a Ford GT! :cool:

Mark

71 Mach 1 J code - Japanese export

72 Convertible f code - first car

Numerous other Fords

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Your brake problem is typical of an internal leak in the master cylinder.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Installed rolling spring perches from DazeCars (http://www.dazecars.com/dazed/Testroller.html).

 

Like everything, the first side I tackled took me about 6 hours, while the second took me less than 2 hours. The first time I had issues compressing the spring and installing the bottom end shock. The issue with the spring is that I was not compressing the spring evenly at the bottom coil so it will tilt after removal of the perch, which made it a challenge to install on the new perch. It is a bit nerve racking to work with a compressed spring so I had to be careful. I ended up using a ratchet strap and a bar to move it into location. For the second wheel, I made sure I hooked the bottom of the spring evenly which required unscrewing one of the hooks of the compressor and installing it from below, easy peasy..... :-/  The second issue is that with these spring perches there is very little room to install the washer and bushing on the bottom studs of the shock. I struggled and spent a lot of time with the first one bolting those suckers.... The lesson learned for the second one was to screw the side facing the engine first, and to insert the shock studs into the perch holes while holding the washers underneath - used three hands. Also, I ended up trimming one side of the washer to make it fit. Off course, once I was done, while cleaning up, I saw the instructions sheet, which suggested this same procedure... dahhhh! :shootself:

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Degreed the cam. I did the whole process 3 times. I think I did it right, but am attributing the error I am seeing to my indicator and setup. I'm going to say it is OK..

I found true TDC, found the intake centerline then found the open/close at .015 and .050. The intake centerline was within 1/2 degree, but the others were a few degrees off. 

 

Measured Intake CL= 107.25-107.5º // From Cam Card = 107º [Fine to me]

Measured open / close @ .015 = 39-40º BTDC / 72.5-73º ABDC // From Cam Card = 37º / 71º

Measured open / close @ .050 = 15º BTDC / 44-44.5º ABDC // From Cam Card = 12º / 46º

 

I think it's close enough for me, I'm just gonna send it.

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I started it for the first time in a few months. It ran like crap. Didn't want to idle. So I keep it at about 2000 RPM for a couple of minutes and then shut it down. It did this one time before when I let it sit for a very long time without starting and the next time I tried it ran fine. I am hoping for a repeat... The weather is going to get nice again in a about 8 weeks. I am looking forward to some seat time.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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I started it for the first time in a few months.  It ran like crap.  Didn't want to idle.  So I keep it at about 2000 RPM for a couple of minutes and then shut it down.  It did this one time before when I let it sit for a very long time without starting and the next time I tried it ran fine.  I am hoping for a repeat...  The weather is going to get nice again in a about 8 weeks. I am looking forward to some seat time.

 

Everything is probably gunked up in the carb / fuel system. I'm dealing with the same thing in an outboard boat.

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