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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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I was having repeatability issues with my dial indicator setup degreeing the cam. I got it to the point where I could go through the cam's full cycle  and it would read zero before it opened the valve and after it closed. The cam was 2º advanced so I retarded it 2º and got the numbers on the cam card within a degree so I am ready to go. I took off friday and the tuesday after labor day so I plan on getting the engine together and possibly in (wishful thinking) in the next week. 

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Started playing with pushrod length.. I started with 8.425 and it was bottoming out the poly lock with 0.030 free play between the rocker and the pushrod so I got 8.500 and 8.550's to check them. The 8.500 seems to give me proper geometry but I figure I'll post the wear pattern in case it is wrong. It looks close enough to the center to me:

Intake:

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Exhaust:

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Also, is it normal for the set screw to stick out of the poly locks this much?

D6ZZGGhl.jpg

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My neighbor came over and wanted to see the 73 Vert so we went to the garage and I started it. Fired right up and he was impressed, lol. He saw the car when I got it with holes in the top and not cleaned up. Detailing goes a long ways.

It was weird no local car shows on Labor Day here. Got a cruse in or two but no real shows.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Finally got my brakes including hand brake operational, new braided hoses, made up all new pipes and vacuum bled it and after a few adjustments have a great pedal.

Now just need to put the rest of the car together.

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Friday myself and my lovely bride drove about 250 miles to the Finger Lakes Wine Country near Watkins Glen NY to visit my dad who is up from Florida.  The drive was great coming up and car ran perfectly. Now today when we have to leave, it is going to be raining for the return trip home, oh well it will be a good test for all the new rubbers and weather stripping !!! 

 

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Finally got my brakes including hand brake operational, new braided hoses, made up all new pipes and vacuum bled it and after a few adjustments have a great pedal.

Now just need to put the rest of the car together.

Awesome. What type of steering system do you have?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Finally got my brakes including hand brake operational, new braided hoses, made up all new pipes and vacuum bled it and after a few adjustments have a great pedal.

Now just need to put the rest of the car together.

Awesome. What type of steering system do you have?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

I have an Aussie made RRS power rack & pinion for RHD conversion. They make LHD as well. Will be a long time before I can report how well it works but the fitment was easy.

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Great work. I like how it looks.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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...added LED headlights. Wow. 

 

They look totally cool... and did I say Wow?  The lumens are incredible 2800 lumens on low beam and 4450 lumens on high beam. What's cool is because they're LEDs they only pull 30W or 48W (per bulb) respectively, so absolutely no upgrades or relays are needed to be added your wiring. They are incredibly different than stock and since they are not reflector bulbs you can get them with the rear of the bulb in black, if you like that black out look.  Definitely cool upgrade.   ::thumb::

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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...added LED headlights. Wow. 

 

They look totally cool... and did I say Wow?  The lumens are incredible 2800 lumens on low beam and 4450 lumens on high beam. What's cool is because they're LEDs they only pull 30W or 48W (per bulb) respectively, so absolutely no upgrades or relays are needed to be added your wiring. They are incredibly different than stock and since they are not reflector bulbs you can get them with the rear of the bulb in black, if you like that black out look.  Definitely cool upgrade.   ::thumb::

 

Please post a link to the headlights you bought. Thanks

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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1504540694150_1239450683.jpg

 

 

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I'm at a Labor Day car show / picnic today but I'll send you the link tonight or tomorrow. I bought a pair of reconditioned headlights buckets in case I needed to do modifications but the LED headlights fit perfectly without any modifications.

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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Nice, Does it just get held in by the standard metal frame that holds the original in ? Did you use the amber turn signal option? I don't really need / want that, I wonder if there is a version without it.

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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Nice, Does it just get held in by the standard metal frame that holds the original in ?  Did you use the amber turn signal option?  I don't really need / want that, I wonder if there is a version without it.

 

 

 

The cast aluminum housing of the LED bulb has 3 square protrusions on the rear of the outer periphery. I was shocked to find that they engage 3 square recesses in the cup of the stock headlight bucket and when oriented correctly it is rotationally aligned perfectly. The square recesses in the stock headlight bucket cups @ 2, 7 & 11 o'clock must be some standard, even from the 1970's. The standard stainless trim rings hold the bulbs correctly. (I painted mine satin black)  Once you cinch down the 3 screws holding the ring and the bulb to the cup, it's installed.  There is plenty of room behind the bulb for the supplied pigtail to exit the hole at the rear of the cup.

 

The halos come with male spade connectors on the wires. I tapped in a whip line (with a shielded female spade) from the side marker to the headlight bucket area and a whip line (with a shielded female spade) from the turn signal to the headlight bucket area. Wired this way, I can use the white/amber halos any way I want and change which way they're used in about 15 secs.  I think I'll give them a switched hot also, as a way to turn the halos on for shows. With the LEDs you could have your halos on for hours, at a show, and not kill your battery much at all.

 

As far as not using them at all, that's personal preference...I find that they make the innards of the LED glow which looks Terminatorish, which is cool to me.  I like that they're NOT full halos as everyone and their mother is trying to duplicate that look and I'm not much of a follower. You'll have state of the art headlights and not look like everyone else.

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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1504540694150_1239450683.jpg

 

I'm at a Labor Day car show / picnic today but I'll send you the link tonight or tomorrow. I bought a pair of reconditioned headlights buckets in case I needed to do modifications but the LED headlights fit perfectly without any modifications.

 

Very cool! I like those.

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Finally felt comfortable with my rocker geometry. Ended up using the 90º at half lift method.

I marked a line connecting the centerlines of the rocker trunion and roller shaft and aligned it to the parallel with the valve retainer. 

I then screwed the poly lock in by 1/2 of my gross lift (.606 lift /2 = .303) 

The rocker stud is 20 TPI so each revolution would be .050, so I went 6 turns plus a hair to get .303.

I did this with an 8.425" long pushrod which was not contacting the rocker at this point. I used a dial indicator to measure the slack between the rocker arm and the tip of the pushrod and came up with .125". I happened to have a 8.550 long pushrod and repeated the process with that one. I put my dial indicator on the valve retainer and rotated the engine to 1/2 lift with everything installed. I took a picture and drew a line in my CAD program and it is only 1º off from perfect which is close enough for me. Ordered the pushrods and will get them Wednesday. 

There's not left much to do besides install the oil pan and intake manifold at this point. 

This picture is my rocker geometry at half lift ::thumb:: :

R49Hi09l.png

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Winning the battle against brake lines.

 

Made up a mount to bolt in place of the stock combo valve.

 

IMG_3632.jpgIMG_3633.png

 

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I don't mean to be negative, but when bending brake lines, you will usually see a coil shape bent into the lines to absorb vibration.  Without that coil shaped bends, the lines could fail from vibration issues.  Probably won't happen and if it does it may be years from now, but what I was taught makes sense and I felt the need to share.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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75 and sunny today. So stopped home at lunch and got the stang out. Took a drive out to the new house to see how construction was going. Car ran fantastic. Drove it like I stole it. It was a good day other than when I got back to the office and having to look out my window at it just siting in the parking lot.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Winning the battle against brake lines.

 

Made up a mount to bolt in place of the stock combo valve.

 

IMG_3632.jpgIMG_3633.png

 

IMG_3633.png

I don't mean to be negative, but when bending brake lines, you will usually see a coil shape bent into the lines to absorb vibration.  Without that coil shaped bends, the lines could fail from vibration issues.  Probably won't happen and if it does it may be years from now, but what I was taught makes sense and I felt the need to share.

 

 

I just copied the original tube layout, but swapped the combo valve for a tee and an adjustable prop valve.  When I make up the lines to the master cyl I plan on flex loops.

 

 

IMG_3740.png

 

bbcode link image

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