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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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Well, it finally got warm enough and dry enough to get the Mach 1 fired up and out the garage. Still only 38 degs, but the sun felt a lot warmer. I drove about 15 miles before I decided to head for the gas station. Now here's the fun part. In Ontario and across Canada, the price of gas has got stupid, not sure what you guys in the US are paying, but I just put in 50 bucks Cdn, about $38 US at the current rate of rip off and that got me 8.87 US gallons or 33.58 liters of Shell premium non-ethanol gas.

So, that's enough for about 135 miles of wonderful driving at 15 mpg. Hey, it's my toy, so I guess it's grin and bare it.

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Changed the oil. Went through all the fluids.  Then gave it a quick bath. Ready to go cruising if it will ever quit snowing here in PA!!! :shootself:

 

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Got the car out of storage today. Took my girls for a ride. They had a blast. So did I.

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73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

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Another part nobody cares about needed attention. While changing door hinges pins, noticed the lower hinge plate on driver side was missing a bolt

or as it turns out, it was a broken bolt. Rust gone, old broken bolt out, painted and new bolts it went back in (very easy to type this, bit tedious to get it back in place properly). Protected the inside of the pilar as well with wax while at it, surprisingly as new.

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and returned to sorting/finding parts for my 429 engine... most sets of bolts "kinda" complete and in oil. Missing few and still have to find the valves studs, springs and retainers. Where the hell are they? raaaaaa. There's a good side tho, my small garage becomes cleaner and organised by the day! Amazing what I've kept in there in 3 decades. Even found back some spare parts of my old Yamaha RD 50cc when I was 15 :)

rediscovered parts I totally forgot about, like a spare rear window for the coupe with defrost grid, a side window for a fastback.

One more dark and dusty place to explore in the garage attic next weekend...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Well, it finally got warm enough and dry enough to get the Mach 1 fired up and out the garage. Still only 38 degs, but the sun felt a lot warmer. I drove about 15 miles before I decided to head for the gas station. Now here's the fun part. In Ontario and across Canada, the price of gas has got stupid, not sure what you guys in the US are paying, but I just put in 50 bucks Cdn, about $38 US at the current rate of rip off and that got me 8.87 US gallons or 33.58 liters of Shell premium non-ethanol gas.

So, that's enough for about 135 miles of wonderful driving at 15 mpg. Hey, it's my toy, so I guess it's grin and bare it.

Geoff.

 

Oh man, you don't realise how lucky you are with petrol prizes hahaha.

 

For me, 33,58 liters of non ethanol unleaded 98 (BP) would cost: 33,58x1,8(euro)=60 euro which is about 73 USD.

 

Cheers,

Vincent.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I wanted to something for patriotic holidays. Got these Sprint esque magnetic decals

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Hi members,  trans fixed and new drip stick seal.  Replace old standard coil with super coil for instant starts.  Replace leaking tank sender seal and another new battery.

Drove more miles this weekend then in the last 2yrs.   I wish I could get use to horns sounding at me.  Scares the heck out of me with our poor visibility. lollerz

 

 

Now need to fix dash lights,  heater fan, and washer pump.  Just glad to be back on the road.

 

Alan L

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Alan L

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I have two hobby cars. The Mustang and the Jeep.  Here is the Jeep:

 

erRXBDJ.jpgHere in Arizona the winter time is the season to work on cars, drive cars, wheel jeeps.  It's too hot in the summer.

Unfortunately I spent pretty much the entire winter with the Jeep. I did a lot of upgrades and a bunch of trail rides.  I just enjoyed being out away from town. 

 

So the Mustang, the Mustang I have owned for 34 years, didn't get much love.  

 

It's at my parents house. I barely drove it and only started it a few times.

 

Today, mother's day, I was at my parents house and after the celebration, I went out to fire up the Mustang.

 

The Mustang was hesitant at first.  I used  a bit of starter fluid to get the Mustang going. It was a very rough idle for the first few minutes.   I think one of the three carbs was dry and had issues with being fueled up.  The gas in the tank is from last year.  Sad.

 

So after a few minutes with rough idle and with me touching the gas, I shut it down.

 

After about 10 minutes I gave it another shot.  No need for starter fluid.  The bowls were primed and ready.  It was still a bit rough but not as finicky as before. I let it run for about two minutes.

 

Another 10 minutes or so later I tried again.  No need to pump the gas.  The Mustang fired up with a turn of the key.   The idle was still a bit rough but I think all was forgiven.   I put the transmission through the different positions.  I can feel this Mustang wants to run.

 

Next Friday I have to pull it out of my parents garage so they can get some work done.  After sitting with it idling today I can tell you I am really looking forward to driving the Mustang around for a bit.   In a couple of weeks I will swap it out for the Jeep.  Both have a long list of things to be done.  But my heart is with the Mustang, we have been together for a long time.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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So, follow on to my last post. Today is the Friday after mothers day and I had to pull It out of the garage. A quick turn of the key and it fired right up. My mother could not believe it. So I drove it around a bit. Took it to the car wash. I put about 50 miles on it and it ran really well. I was a bit easy on it since the gas in the tank is from last year. How fun it Is to drive. Got a few waves and 'thumbs up'.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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Well it's wonders what correct parts will do to performance.  Have always had a hard long crank hard to start problem till now.  Overhauled new carb to correct float bowl draining, hotter plugs, adjust choke setting and high torque mini starter to fix hot soak starts.   Seatbelt on gas in the tank and off we go.  Not many 71/73 's in my area, and I stopped for a soda to cool off.  Two customers getting gas asked to take a picture, and a girl started to cry saying "I had one of those from my dad , but my husband made me sell it to by a vette".  :@ ALMOST FORGOT THE JOY OF JUST CRUISING.  Only wish I had a/c.

 

 

Alan L.

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Alan L

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That's great Alan! It's fun when folks like the car, make comments and want to take pictures.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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I got to know, but let me guess first :

 

the knob is for a manual choke, and the switch is for the reverse lights ?

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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It sort of fits.......

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I think it turned out pretty nice! It's hard to work with our old form factors.   Really good job!

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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I got to know, but let me guess first :

 

the knob is for a manual choke, and the switch is for the reverse lights ?

 

 

Good guesses. Correct on the choke, but the switch is for a power antenna. I like manual:)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Good guesses. Correct on the choke, but the switch is for a power antenna. I like manual:)

 

 

 

I thought for sure when you put the 5 speed in, you never got around to figuring out the back up lights  ::thumb:: , 

 

I have one for my antenna also, my old radio actually was kinda cool because it had a circuit that only closed when the unit was in tuner mode, so that the antenna would only go up then. Not cool was if you were toggling through aux, cd, usb, etc, every time it got to the tuner am & fm, the antenna would start to go up and then come down.

 

my new head unit doesn't have the feature so I put in the switch. although mine is still dangling from the wires  :-/

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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I had taken my CC 351 4-V heads to shop to be cleaned and checked for cracks. I dropped back in today and hurray no cracks, even guides are good. They look like new and after talking with the engine builder I will do the machine work on them to install the big screw in rocker studs and guide plates. I stretch wrapped them and they will sit for at least a year until I get the body done. No need to build an engine and let it sit for a year or more. I got the heads for $150 and it was $50.00 for the cleaning and Magnaflux checks. So now I have a date code correct 72 4 bolt main block that is standard bore and a crank that

has not been cut for the build. I will look for deals on the components. We do have a local race shop here that grinds cams for the NASCAR boys. I am going by to see if they have something of interest for the 351. Going to keep the compression up pretty high will only drive to shows and do some autocross and 1/4 mile runs with it. Going in my 72 Q code Gold Glow vert one of 330 built. It is a one of one due to having an AM / 8 Track player, lol. Came with a ram air package, and PO put a Detroit locker 9" 31 spline rear in it. It has comp. suspension, tilt, gauges, rim blow, console, ram air, bumper guards, black top, ginger interior, tinted windows. I have an air system but not going to add I also have power windows but think I will leave manual.

Will look at a 6 point roll bar so I can do some track time but will need to get the Detroit lock out of there for that.

I got the filler panel cut out from between trunk and rear window, PO had not repaired the rust just hid it. I cut a rust free panel out of a parts car and ran through my molasses and poured POR inside so all the cracks and back side of metal is sealed and coated. Will maybe get welded in this week.

Then I will cut the quarters back off and do them correct as the PO did lap joints not butt joints.

Also going to cut floor out and put in a full floor instead of the sorry looking patch panels the PO did.

Lots of grinder grit in my future for sure.

BTW the heads were baked then steel shot blasted never glass bead any engine components you will never get all the glass beads out. Ground glass was what they poured into the Cash for Clunkers cars a few years ago to seize the engines in seconds in some cases.

Cheers,

David

 

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Put the finishing touches on the interior swap over the winter/spring.  New sound barrier, carpet, seats, console, door cards, 3 point seat belts, etc.  Lots of fitment issues along the way, but somehow got it all done.  Took the first drive of the year today to boot.

 

Scott

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Finished it.

 

 

 

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very cool! its pretty hard to integrate modern tech into this classic console. What kind of connections do you have behind for this? Similar to a regular radio/tape/cd unit? Extra connectors for additional camera(s) feed?

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Put the finishing touches on the interior swap over the winter/spring.  New sound barrier, carpet, seats, console, door cards, 3 point seat belts, etc.  Lots of fitment issues along the way, but somehow got it all done.  Took the first drive of the year today to boot.

 

Scott

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The turned out really nice!

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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Really nice interior mods..... enjoy the car!

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Ongoing efforts to fit a 14 inch aftermarket air cleaner with filtered top into 15 inch opening in Ram Air plenum. I have a 460 with Weiand Stealth high-rise intake, so there isn't enough room for stock type air cleaner.  Removed about 3/8 inch of laminated alternating aluminum spacers and gaskets under carb to increase total vertical space available.

 

Now dropped air cleaner base sits flush on reinforcement bar between shock towers (expected that..). Ordered 1/4" and 1/2" aluminum air cleaner base spacers because underside of filtered air cleaner top also hits Holley 750 air horns and can't have base sitting on shock tower cross brace either.

 

Obviously using either of those base spacers will reduce vertical space available again, so can't use 14 x 3 inch filter and trying to fit 14x2 filter instead (which is why the dropped base results in carb top interference with filtered top steel underside).

 

Have a Performer 460 intake still in the box too and I am sure that would simplify vertical space issues, but really want to keep the Weiand on it.  So, not giving up on adapting to that intake yet.

 

Standard aftermarket air cleaner top appears that it would fit better than filtered (thicker) top on both carb top clearance and underside of hood structure, but not sure that the 14 x 2 inch side filter can draw enough air under higher RPM (probably not over 4500-5000).  Forgot what cam is in the motor, but think it was Lunati 268H.  Trans is CJ big spline Toploader and rear is 3.55:1.

 

Any air flow guru's have any ideas about whether I would have sufficient air flow with 14 x 2 inch filter and a solid air cleaner top, as opposed to the filtered top that would seem to alleviate any potential restricted air flow issues (but is considerably more difficult to squeeze into the limited space) ?

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