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Ongoing efforts to fit a 14 inch aftermarket air cleaner with filtered top into 15 inch opening in Ram Air plenum. I have a 460 with Weiand Stealth high-rise intake, so there isn't enough room for stock type air cleaner.  Removed about 3/8 inch of laminated alternating aluminum spacers and gaskets under carb to increase total vertical space available.

 

Now dropped air cleaner base sits flush on reinforcement bar between shock towers (expected that..). Ordered 1/4" and 1/2" aluminum air cleaner base spacers because underside of filtered air cleaner top also hits Holley 750 air horns and can't have base sitting on shock tower cross brace either.

 

Obviously using either of those base spacers will reduce vertical space available again, so can't use 14 x 3 inch filter and trying to fit 14x2 filter instead (which is why the dropped base results in carb top interference with filtered top steel underside).

 

Have a Performer 460 intake still in the box too and I am sure that would simplify vertical space issues, but really want to keep the Weiand on it.  So, not giving up on adapting to that intake yet.

 

Standard aftermarket air cleaner top appears that it would fit better than filtered (thicker) top on both carb top clearance and underside of hood structure, but not sure that the 14 x 2 inch side filter can draw enough air under higher RPM (probably not over 4500-5000).  Forgot what cam is in the motor, but think it was Lunati 268H.  Trans is CJ big spline Toploader and rear is 3.55:1.

 

Any air flow guru's have any ideas about whether I would have sufficient air flow with 14 x 2 inch filter and a solid air cleaner top, as opposed to the filtered top that would seem to alleviate any potential restricted air flow issues (but is considerably more difficult to squeeze into the limited space) ?

 

Maybe trying an offset base will help with clearance. You may not need the spacers. If I understand correctly this idea may help.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-4768-Offset-Cleaner/dp/B004AJ6FD8

 

Check this picture of my engine. The lower picture is with a 14" filter, a 1" carb spacer, the stock cover and the offset Spectre base.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-what-did-you-do-to-your-car-today?pid=298694#pid298694

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Any air flow guru's have any ideas about whether I would have sufficient air flow with 14 x 2 inch filter and a solid air cleaner top, as opposed to the filtered top that would seem to alleviate any potential restricted air flow issues (but is considerably more difficult to squeeze into the limited space) ?

 

Here's what K&N has to say about it. Scroll down to Air Filter Selection.

https://www.knfilters.com/filter_facts.htm#SELECT

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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I looked at those offset bases, but it looks like I would have to offset at least two inches to the rear to clear shock tower brace and that would put the 14" filter 1 1/2 inches past the rear of the ram air plenum opening and even the 2" filter needs to go up inside the plenum, at least partially.

 

A smaller 12" diameter filter could clear the tower brace too, but a 2 inch high filter in 12 inch diameter (if even available) would flow even less, so trying to stay with 14" diameter being it fits fairly well in plenum opening.

 

Like you said when you were trying to decide which way to go with yours, I am hoping to keep at least some function of Ram Air (even though they aren't exactly all that airtight to begin with, even in stock form).

 

If I can get the right height, I will still have roughly a 1/2 inch gap between and all around air filter outside diameter and plenum opening (I think...), but figure I can reduce that gap further by using some of the soft foam gasket material, similar to what is used on stock setups, but perhaps attach it to plenum instead of air cleaner.

 

Another possibility might be using some of that pinch weld push-on plastic trim material around the inside of plenum hole to reduce the gap between it and air cleaner, but still allow for a little engine moment.

 

Even if a small gap still exists though, I would think it would still create some outside air pressure right around the filter sides and result in cooler air ingestion than without the ram air functioning at all with just an under hood filter ingesting under hood air heated by the engine, as it has been until now.

 

Can't see inside there when hood is shut either, so mocking up aluminum foil pieces and shutting hood to see where clearance issues are. But, I am not actually certain that the air cleaner is dead center in the plenum opening and haven't figured out how to mock up that blind exact clearance without getting the air cleaner height problems tackled first.

 

 

Piling up a lot of air cleaner parts in this process, but I have lots of other project cars that I can probably use them on if they prove not to be needed on this one.

 

Thanks, Mike

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Any air flow guru's have any ideas about whether I would have sufficient air flow with 14 x 2 inch filter and a solid air cleaner top, as opposed to the filtered top that would seem to alleviate any potential restricted air flow issues (but is considerably more difficult to squeeze into the limited space) ?

 

Here's what K&N has to say about it. Scroll down to Air Filter Selection.

https://www.knfilters.com/filter_facts.htm#SELECT

 Thanks for the link Don.  Crunching my numbers with K&N formulas indicates that with a 14x2 filter and solid top, I would be good at 2000 RPM, short by half an inch at 3500 RPM and short by 1.29 inches at 5000 RPM. (Based on 466 CI..)

 

That confirms my guess that the 2" filter with solid top is inadequate beyond roughly 2500 RPM, and the filtered top plate would be necessary to overcome the airflow shortfall. A 3" filter with solid top would probably suffice up to about 4500 RPM, but doubt I can squeeze that in there.

 

So, it looks like the filtered top has to be used if I go with the 2" filter, but the filtered top being 5/8" thicker than the solid top results in only about 3/8" total height difference between the two filter heights.

 

I have a 3" filter on the way too, so when the additional parts get here I will test fit them both. Have also looked at 2.5" height filters, but the airflow should be adequate with the 2" using the filtered top and the filtered top would still be necessary even with a 2.5" filter as well and fit even tighter.  

 

As a last resort, if neither of those prospects work out, looks like I could also remove my shock tower brace and modify (cut and re-weld) it so allows the air cleaner base to sit lower and possibly remove a 1/4" to 1/2" of the lip on the air cleaner base and maybe squeeze in the 3" filter... 

 

Hope it doesn't come to that, as I just put the tower brace back on after front suspension rebuild. Ram Air and filter-fitting nonsense is taking as long as whole front suspension and brake rebuild took..

:thankyouyellow:

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Ongoing efforts to fit a 14 inch aftermarket air cleaner with filtered top into 15 inch opening in Ram Air plenum. I have a 460 with Weiand Stealth high-rise intake, so there isn't enough room for stock type air cleaner.  Removed about 3/8 inch of laminated alternating aluminum spacers and gaskets under carb to increase total vertical space available.

 

Now dropped air cleaner base sits flush on reinforcement bar between shock towers (expected that..). Ordered 1/4" and 1/2" aluminum air cleaner base spacers because underside of filtered air cleaner top also hits Holley 750 air horns and can't have base sitting on shock tower cross brace either.

 

Obviously using either of those base spacers will reduce vertical space available again, so can't use 14 x 3 inch filter and trying to fit 14x2 filter instead (which is why the dropped base results in carb top interference with filtered top steel underside).

 

Have a Performer 460 intake still in the box too and I am sure that would simplify vertical space issues, but really want to keep the Weiand on it.  So, not giving up on adapting to that intake yet.

 

Standard aftermarket air cleaner top appears that it would fit better than filtered (thicker) top on both carb top clearance and underside of hood structure, but not sure that the 14 x 2 inch side filter can draw enough air under higher RPM (probably not over 4500-5000).  Forgot what cam is in the motor, but think it was Lunati 268H.  Trans is CJ big spline Toploader and rear is 3.55:1.

 

Any air flow guru's have any ideas about whether I would have sufficient air flow with 14 x 2 inch filter and a solid air cleaner top, as opposed to the filtered top that would seem to alleviate any potential restricted air flow issues (but is considerably more difficult to squeeze into the limited space) ?

 

There was a good video from engine masters* on air cleaner theory.. The filter top seems to be great because the air is already traveling at a high velocity in the direction it needs to go (down into the carb throat). They ran a literal salad bowl with just a filter top and it was at the top of the performance spectrum of their comparison.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkpsydS8JXI

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Got the Mike Maier Inc Panhard setup tacked in

 

 

 

 

Awesome. Interested to hear if you feel any difference. I also read that you can't install it with staggered shocks so it may not be for me but I am curious.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I looked at those offset bases, but it looks like I would have to offset at least two inches to the rear to clear shock tower brace and that would put the 14" filter 1 1/2 inches past the rear of the ram air plenum opening and even the 2"  filter needs to go up inside the plenum, at least partially.

 

A smaller 12"  diameter filter could clear the tower brace too, but a 2 inch high filter in 12 inch diameter (if even available)  would flow even less, so trying to stay with 14" diameter being it fits fairly well in plenum opening.

 

Like you said when you were trying to decide which way to go with yours, I am hoping to keep at least some function of Ram Air (even though they aren't exactly all that airtight to begin with, even in stock form).  

 

If I can get the right height, I will still have roughly a 1/2 inch gap between and all around air filter outside diameter and plenum opening  (I think...), but figure I can reduce that gap further by using some of the soft foam gasket material, similar to what is used on stock setups, but perhaps attach it to plenum instead of air cleaner.

 

Another possibility might be using some of that pinch weld push-on plastic trim material around the inside of plenum hole to reduce the gap between it and air cleaner, but still allow for a little engine moment.

 

Even if a small gap still exists though, I would think it would still create some outside air pressure right around the filter sides and result in cooler air ingestion than without the ram air functioning at all with just an under hood filter ingesting under hood air heated by the engine, as it has been until now.

 

Can't see inside there when hood is shut either, so mocking up aluminum foil pieces and shutting hood to see where clearance issues are.  But,  I am not actually certain that the air cleaner is dead center in the plenum opening and haven't figured out how to mock up that blind exact clearance without getting the air cleaner height problems tackled first.

 

 

Piling up a lot of air cleaner parts in this process, but I have lots of other project cars that I can probably use them on if they prove not to be needed on this one.

 

Thanks, Mike

 

Mike, I am confused because the picture that you see of my engine bay is with a 3" air cleaner, a 1" carb spacer, and the offset air cleaner base. With all these, I had no clearance issues. The whole filter fitted nicely inside the air ram cavity with space to spare.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Ongoing efforts to fit a 14 inch aftermarket air cleaner with filtered top into 15 inch opening in Ram Air plenum. I have a 460 with Weiand Stealth high-rise intake, so there isn't enough room for stock type air cleaner.  Removed about 3/8 inch of laminated alternating aluminum spacers and gaskets under carb to increase total vertical space available.

 

Now dropped air cleaner base sits flush on reinforcement bar between shock towers (expected that..). Ordered 1/4" and 1/2" aluminum air cleaner base spacers because underside of filtered air cleaner top also hits Holley 750 air horns and can't have base sitting on shock tower cross brace either.

 

Obviously using either of those base spacers will reduce vertical space available again, so can't use 14 x 3 inch filter and trying to fit 14x2 filter instead (which is why the dropped base results in carb top interference with filtered top steel underside).

 

Have a Performer 460 intake still in the box too and I am sure that would simplify vertical space issues, but really want to keep the Weiand on it.  So, not giving up on adapting to that intake yet.

 

Standard aftermarket air cleaner top appears that it would fit better than filtered (thicker) top on both carb top clearance and underside of hood structure, but not sure that the 14 x 2 inch side filter can draw enough air under higher RPM (probably not over 4500-5000).  Forgot what cam is in the motor, but think it was Lunati 268H.  Trans is CJ big spline Toploader and rear is 3.55:1.

 

Any air flow guru's have any ideas about whether I would have sufficient air flow with 14 x 2 inch filter and a solid air cleaner top, as opposed to the filtered top that would seem to alleviate any potential restricted air flow issues (but is considerably more difficult to squeeze into the limited space) ?

 

The Stealth is not a very good street intake despite the fact it is a dual plane. Depending on cam specs you are probably better off with a regular performer with a super sucker or 3 hole spacer or the performer rpm intake. I have run both with a Lunati 227/233 @.050 cam and the regular performer makes a noticeable difference down low where as the performer rpm pulls harder and longer at the top.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.

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Took my daughter to T-Ball practice in the Mustang. She had a blast. I think the jersey they gave her might be a little big.

DAFA5764_E135_4388_847_C_44546_F2_A4_D2_C.jpg

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I replaced the temporary fuse with a proper 14A fuse and the car ran well with it (just around the block).

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Ongoing efforts to fit a 14 inch aftermarket air cleaner with filtered top into 15 inch opening in Ram Air plenum. I have a 460 with Weiand Stealth high-rise intake, so there isn't enough room for stock type air cleaner.  Removed about 3/8 inch of laminated alternating aluminum spacers and gaskets under carb to increase total vertical space available.

 

Now dropped air cleaner base sits flush on reinforcement bar between shock towers (expected that..). Ordered 1/4" and 1/2" aluminum air cleaner base spacers because underside of filtered air cleaner top also hits Holley 750 air horns and can't have base sitting on shock tower cross brace either.

 

Obviously using either of those base spacers will reduce vertical space available again, so can't use 14 x 3 inch filter and trying to fit 14x2 filter instead (which is why the dropped base results in carb top interference with filtered top steel underside).

 

Have a Performer 460 intake still in the box too and I am sure that would simplify vertical space issues, but really want to keep the Weiand on it.  So, not giving up on adapting to that intake yet.

 

Standard aftermarket air cleaner top appears that it would fit better than filtered (thicker) top on both carb top clearance and underside of hood structure, but not sure that the 14 x 2 inch side filter can draw enough air under higher RPM (probably not over 4500-5000).  Forgot what cam is in the motor, but think it was Lunati 268H.  Trans is CJ big spline Toploader and rear is 3.55:1.

 

Any air flow guru's have any ideas about whether I would have sufficient air flow with 14 x 2 inch filter and a solid air cleaner top, as opposed to the filtered top that would seem to alleviate any potential restricted air flow issues (but is considerably more difficult to squeeze into the limited space) ?

 

There was a good video from engine masters* on air cleaner theory.. The filter top seems to be great because the air is already traveling at a high velocity in the direction it needs to go (down into the carb throat). They ran a literal salad bowl with just a filter top and it was at the top of the performance spectrum of their comparison.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkpsydS8JXI

 

I looked at those offset bases, but it looks like I would have to offset at least two inches to the rear to clear shock tower brace and that would put the 14" filter 1 1/2 inches past the rear of the ram air plenum opening and even the 2"  filter needs to go up inside the plenum, at least partially.

 

A smaller 12"  diameter filter could clear the tower brace too, but a 2 inch high filter in 12 inch diameter (if even available)  would flow even less, so trying to stay with 14" diameter being it fits fairly well in plenum opening.

 

Like you said when you were trying to decide which way to go with yours, I am hoping to keep at least some function of Ram Air (even though they aren't exactly all that airtight to begin with, even in stock form).  

 

If I can get the right height, I will still have roughly a 1/2 inch gap between and all around air filter outside diameter and plenum opening  (I think...), but figure I can reduce that gap further by using some of the soft foam gasket material, similar to what is used on stock setups, but perhaps attach it to plenum instead of air cleaner.

 

Another possibility might be using some of that pinch weld push-on plastic trim material around the inside of plenum hole to reduce the gap between it and air cleaner, but still allow for a little engine moment.

 

Even if a small gap still exists though, I would think it would still create some outside air pressure right around the filter sides and result in cooler air ingestion than without the ram air functioning at all with just an under hood filter ingesting under hood air heated by the engine, as it has been until now.

 

Can't see inside there when hood is shut either, so mocking up aluminum foil pieces and shutting hood to see where clearance issues are.  But,  I am not actually certain that the air cleaner is dead center in the plenum opening and haven't figured out how to mock up that blind exact clearance without getting the air cleaner height problems tackled first.

 

 

Piling up a lot of air cleaner parts in this process, but I have lots of other project cars that I can probably use them on if they prove not to be needed on this one.

 

Thanks, Mike

 

Mike, I am confused because the picture that you see of my engine bay is with a 3" air cleaner, a 1" carb spacer, and the offset air cleaner base. With all these, I had no clearance issues. The whole filter fitted nicely inside the air ram cavity with space to spare.

IDK, probably the 6" height of the Stealth intake... What intake do you have? I removed all carb spacers, except two gaskets and one aluminum plate that is only .062 thick and still air cleaner top hits hood inner structure with dropped air cleaner base. Only other thing I can think of is my motor mounts being taller?

 

Put this motor in about 2003 and was scouring EBay daily for parts off junked 429 Mach's so would guess that is what lower mounts are from, but can't remember for sure. Do know they aren't the 351c frame mounts because those are hanging on the Cleveland which is still on a stand in my back garage..

 

What was the interference point before using the offset base and how much offset is the base?

Air cleaner is 14" diameter ?

 

Thanks, Mike

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Looks like intake will indeed have to be changed for a lower height one. No combination of bases spacers and tops fit vertically with either the 2" or 3" filter. Compared intake heights on Summit site and Stealth is 6" where Performer is only 4.12. Glad I have one on the shelf already as they are $300 now.  Think when I bought it they were ~$235..

 

Cam is a Lunati HI268 I believe (which Summit still sells after all these years...), so Performer should be adequate for that cam (both are rated 5500 at the top of their operating range). I also have Dove heads and forged pistons which machinist took tops down a little to give me a 9.25 CR. He had ordered the Pistons for it thinking I had the later larger chamber heads..

 

I recall being in a quandary about whether to use the tin baffle gasket under intake, but ended up just using the fiber gaskets, thinking that carb had plenty of distance anyway on tall intake to reduce likelihood of it getting too hot (vapor lock, etc..). 1971 Lincoln Mark radiator from the same donor car as the motor fit nice in the Mustang which surprised me.

 

Anybody using the tin baffle and side gaskets with aluminum manifolds, or just the composition side gaskets? I probably have side gaskets here already, but don't want to take apart until sure I have any parts needed..

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Only replaced the knob. Had a bugger of a time taking it out with pushing the little button in on the switch, I guess it was just sticky, and didn't wnat to put too much stress on and break something.

 

DSC_9265.jpg

DSC_9268.jpg

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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Ongoing efforts to fit a 14 inch aftermarket air cleaner with filtered top into 15 inch opening in Ram Air plenum. I have a 460 with Weiand Stealth high-rise intake, so there isn't enough room for stock type air cleaner.  Removed about 3/8 inch of laminated alternating aluminum spacers and gaskets under carb to increase total vertical space available.

 

Now dropped air cleaner base sits flush on reinforcement bar between shock towers (expected that..). Ordered 1/4" and 1/2" aluminum air cleaner base spacers because underside of filtered air cleaner top also hits Holley 750 air horns and can't have base sitting on shock tower cross brace either.

 

Obviously using either of those base spacers will reduce vertical space available again, so can't use 14 x 3 inch filter and trying to fit 14x2 filter instead (which is why the dropped base results in carb top interference with filtered top steel underside).

 

Have a Performer 460 intake still in the box too and I am sure that would simplify vertical space issues, but really want to keep the Weiand on it.  So, not giving up on adapting to that intake yet.

 

Standard aftermarket air cleaner top appears that it would fit better than filtered (thicker) top on both carb top clearance and underside of hood structure, but not sure that the 14 x 2 inch side filter can draw enough air under higher RPM (probably not over 4500-5000).  Forgot what cam is in the motor, but think it was Lunati 268H.  Trans is CJ big spline Toploader and rear is 3.55:1.

 

Any air flow guru's have any ideas about whether I would have sufficient air flow with 14 x 2 inch filter and a solid air cleaner top, as opposed to the filtered top that would seem to alleviate any potential restricted air flow issues (but is considerably more difficult to squeeze into the limited space) ?

 

There was a good video from engine masters* on air cleaner theory.. The filter top seems to be great because the air is already traveling at a high velocity in the direction it needs to go (down into the carb throat). They ran a literal salad bowl with just a filter top and it was at the top of the performance spectrum of their comparison.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkpsydS8JXI

 

I looked at those offset bases, but it looks like I would have to offset at least two inches to the rear to clear shock tower brace and that would put the 14" filter 1 1/2 inches past the rear of the ram air plenum opening and even the 2"  filter needs to go up inside the plenum, at least partially.

 

A smaller 12"  diameter filter could clear the tower brace too, but a 2 inch high filter in 12 inch diameter (if even available)  would flow even less, so trying to stay with 14" diameter being it fits fairly well in plenum opening.

 

Like you said when you were trying to decide which way to go with yours, I am hoping to keep at least some function of Ram Air (even though they aren't exactly all that airtight to begin with, even in stock form).  

 

If I can get the right height, I will still have roughly a 1/2 inch gap between and all around air filter outside diameter and plenum opening  (I think...), but figure I can reduce that gap further by using some of the soft foam gasket material, similar to what is used on stock setups, but perhaps attach it to plenum instead of air cleaner.

 

Another possibility might be using some of that pinch weld push-on plastic trim material around the inside of plenum hole to reduce the gap between it and air cleaner, but still allow for a little engine moment.

 

Even if a small gap still exists though, I would think it would still create some outside air pressure right around the filter sides and result in cooler air ingestion than without the ram air functioning at all with just an under hood filter ingesting under hood air heated by the engine, as it has been until now.

 

Can't see inside there when hood is shut either, so mocking up aluminum foil pieces and shutting hood to see where clearance issues are.  But,  I am not actually certain that the air cleaner is dead center in the plenum opening and haven't figured out how to mock up that blind exact clearance without getting the air cleaner height problems tackled first.

 

 

Piling up a lot of air cleaner parts in this process, but I have lots of other project cars that I can probably use them on if they prove not to be needed on this one.

 

Thanks, Mike

 

Mike, I am confused because the picture that you see of my engine bay is with a 3" air cleaner, a 1" carb spacer, and the offset air cleaner base. With all these, I had no clearance issues. The whole filter fitted nicely inside the air ram cavity with space to spare.

IDK, probably the 6" height of the Stealth intake... What intake do you have? I removed all carb spacers, except two gaskets and one aluminum plate that is only .062 thick and still air cleaner top hits hood inner structure with dropped air cleaner base. Only other thing I can think of is my motor mounts being taller?

 

Put this motor in about 2003 and was scouring EBay daily for parts off junked 429 Mach's so would guess that is what lower mounts are from, but can't remember for sure. Do know they aren't the 351c frame mounts because those are hanging on the Cleveland which is still on a stand in my back garage..

 

What was the interference point before using the offset base and how much offset is the base?

Air cleaner is 14" diameter ?

 

Thanks, Mike

Okay, now I get it. In that picture I had a Performer, which I will be selling soon after I install the Blue Thunder, but without spacer.

I never used it without the offset. The offset is about 1 3/8".

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Yeah, Performer should fit vertically with 3" it looks like. Will find out if offset is required soon on mine I guess. Found paperwork from Jeg's (2002) and I paid $168.99 for the new 460 Performer intake back then. Lists for $303 on Summit today.... So, if you had the Performer a while you will probably be able to get your full purchase price back. Inflation much?

 

Just pulled the Stealth intake and cleaning up gasket residue to ready for the Performer.

 

I've heard only good things about the Blue Thunder and considered buying one for a 390 TBird motor I built last year, but already had a vintage F427 and a Performer for that engine too (paid around $120 apiece for those off EBay sometime back around Y2k).

 

Bought FPA ceramic coated headers for that 390 too which I think ran over a grand alone, so buying a 3rd intake seemed foolish. So, I have the F427 intake sitting on it and probably use some of my air cleaner extra parts for that one anyway. Or maybe only bolt it on temporarily to make sure it clears the hood on TBird before installing it permanently, to avoid possibly going through all this rigamorole again...

 

Do you recall where your point of interference was that required you to use the offset base? Mine (so far) only showed vertical clearance issues, but maybe that will change with intake change..

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Yeah, Performer should fit vertically with 3" it looks like.  Will find out if offset is required soon on mine I guess. Found paperwork from Jeg's (2002) and I paid $168.99 for the new 460 Performer  intake back then. Lists for $303 on Summit today....  So, if you had the Performer a while you will probably be able to get your full purchase price back.  Inflation much?

 

Just pulled the Stealth intake and cleaning up gasket residue to ready for the Performer.  

 

I've heard only good things about the Blue Thunder and considered buying one for a 390 TBird motor I built last year, but already had a vintage F427 and a Performer for that engine too (paid around $120 apiece for those off EBay sometime back around Y2k).

 

Bought FPA ceramic coated headers for that 390 too which I think ran over a grand alone, so buying a 3rd intake seemed foolish.  So, I have the F427 intake sitting on it and probably use some of my air cleaner extra parts for that one anyway. Or maybe only bolt it on temporarily to make sure it clears the hood on TBird before installing it permanently, to avoid possibly going through all this rigamorole again...

 

Do you recall where your point of interference was that required you to use the offset base? Mine (so far) only showed vertical clearance issues, but maybe that will change with intake change..

 

To be honest, I just went directly to offset. I know I had interference, so never checked where was it. At the end, I am still using the factory ram air filter base. I have the offset in case I want to change the look.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today, was steering and front suspension. This morning I replaced the idler arm bushing. Next set preload in the steering box and centered the steering wheel. All this week before work this morning.

 

At lunch the alignment rack was open, so I pulled the Mach1 in and believe it or not, every thing came loose with a little help. It aligned with no issues.

 

Next up is keeping progress on painting the underside of the body.

 

No pictures today...

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Big day on the car today, first off we purchased this car in pieces, never was assembled. I really need to get this car on the road for some test drives to see what I have to work with. Stopped by the police station to ask, how much needs to be assembled to avoid citations, they said bumpers and brake lights. I did not think that would be hard as I had the bumpers on the car.

 

So I headed to work, started mounting the rear bumper, not a big deal, looked for the tail lamp wires, they could not be found along with the tail lamps themselves. Bummer. Off to the front, found one headlamp assembly, said what the heck, put it in and it actually worked! Very rare does anything just work on this car. Proceeded to mount the front bumper, found front marker lamps, installed them, new bulbs and again, seem to be on a roll.

 

Ran out of parts, made a trip home to locate tail lamp assemblies, found one in the garage, other was hurried under the basement stairs, with you guessed it more mach1 parts...

 

Loaded tail lamps, grill, front and rear valance panels and back to work I went. Spent a few hours, got all that stuff assembled, lights working except RF turn, brake lamps (the main reason working on the car today) reverse lamps and grill lamps. Stopped by the auto parts store for bulbs as nd tomorrow is a new day.

 

 

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Finally got the car out and cleaned up from it's long winter's rest. Washed, waxed, vacuumed and cleaned the interior. Went for some fresh gas and drove about fifteen miles. I really need to install the new shocks - thees ancient Gas a Justs are simply horrible. Installed a headlight relay kit and a set of Cibie headlight housings - what a difference! The headlights are like driving a newer car. Will probably do a write up on the parts I used in one of the tech sections.

 

 

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Broke my shifter :whistling: , Well it just broke on itself, It was getting sloppier and sloppier, and sometimes the car wouldn't start without playing with the shifter , I'm guessing so the neutral safety switch wasn't sensing the correct location. Now it is REALLY sloppy so time to fix.

 

Ordered some shifter bushings from CJ and watched a couple YouTube videos on how to replace.

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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Drove to the AACI (American Auto Club International) today. It was good to be amongst fellow enthusiasts. My intention was to just park up but i was directed to where others were showing their cars. So mine neded up being part of the show

Steve

1971 Grande

 

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Didn’t do squat,

But I did spy this nice Mach that had a boatload tied up into Total Control coilovers on all 4. The owner was gone at church so I didn’t get to chat. A nice mix of cars at the local car show and fantastic weather ... minus a few raindrops.

E4118_D73_4458_4849_A59_F_3473_D1573_DAD.jpg

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