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What did you do to your car today?


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Had been blocking on the 72 Q vert but neck is telling me to stop even with it on rotisserie. So I got back on the work bench and decided to get back on the ram air cleaner. I had stripped it and took the rust off in the molasses. I primed and sprayed it with Duplicolor Ford Corporate Blue. It was way too dark. Must have got a missed batch of paint had matched great in the past. So in order to paint again I had let it set for couple weeks to dry out. So got out some 500 grit and a scotch brite pad. Music on and start sanding. About 4 hours later ready to spray again. Will see what is out there. I have not tried the POR engine paint might look at them.
Had a guy visit and look at cars. He is very interested in 1956 Club Sedan, 292 4-V with three speed overdrive. It was a one owner that I drove it into the barn in 1978 been there since. Never painted so nothing hidden. Not taken apart a complete car. Red and White so will be a good looking car. He also likes the 1959 Galaxie, Fairlane 500 Victoria Club Coupe. Since it has no rust, New Mexico car, he could turn it around really fast. It is also a FE car not a Y block and I have the 332 and extra 352 that goes with it. Was also a three speed overdrive car.
He loves the 73 Mach 1 he had to sit in it a couple times and kept going back to look.
He is another of those that thought they made Mach 1 convertibles. He thought the 73 vert with decor group was a Mach 1 vert, lol. He was interested in it also, I told him $21,000 without the forged aluminum wheels and new tires.
While he was here I got him to help me get the hood for the 72 Q vert out of the stack in the corner. I had noticed that the PO had sprayed the back side of the hood with some kind of undercoating. Lacquer thinner had no affect on it. Now I have to figure out how to remove or use another NASA hood. This one did not have hood locks was going to do one with locks and one without locks. I have a couple more will have to get help to move.
So deer season opens again for rifle this week so I will be looking out the work room window often to check for deer. Bear season closes for a while today and opens again in December.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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That is one fat wheel now. They are skinny even the factory leather wrapped is skinny. It was an option pulled over from the Pinto in 1973.

 

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I got the hood off and am continuing the disassembly. Gonna work on pulling the remainder of the dash to get at the wiring. 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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On 11/26/2020 at 6:36 PM, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

That is one fat wheel now. They are skinny even the factory leather wrapped is skinny. It was an option pulled over from the Pinto in 1973.

 

DSC_1258.JPG

Ya mine was the skinny wheel, I was never a fan of it. But I wanted to keep it somewhat original. It feels so much more sporty now! 

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11 hours ago, c9zx said:

Looking good! What are the build details? Chuck

Basically a hot stock-ish build. TRW L2379F zero decked, stock crank, stock rods w/ARP2000 hardware. McLeod steel flywheel, Romac damper. Heads are 71 D1AE-GA w/Ferrea 5000 valves, studs and guides, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum rockers, Cam Research solid flat tappet cam 230/235 .560/.560 lift. Will start with a Torker 351 intake and see where it takes me. Compression looks to be 10.5:1 using 66cc chambers, but heads still need to be CCed for real numbers. Should be on the dyno in a couple weeks at most. 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Hemikiller said:

Basically a hot stock-ish build. TRW L2379F zero decked, stock crank, stock rods w/ARP2000 hardware. McLeod steel flywheel, Romac damper. Heads are 71 D1AE-GA w/Ferrea 5000 valves, studs and guides, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum rockers, Cam Research solid flat tappet cam 230/235 .560/.560 lift. Will start with a Torker 351 intake and see where it takes me. Compression looks to be 10.5:1 using 66cc chambers, but heads still need to be CCed for real numbers. Should be on the dyno in a couple weeks at most. 

Damn that looks very clean, I just finished the crank and rod bearings and piston rings on mine after a few weeks of soaking the pistons to remove carbon. I need to get my head gasket surfaces clean like that. Can't wait to see your dyno as I am still waiting on my damn cam kit myself

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13 hours ago, Hemikiller said:

Basically a hot stock-ish build. TRW L2379F zero decked, stock crank, stock rods w/ARP2000 hardware. McLeod steel flywheel, Romac damper. Heads are 71 D1AE-GA w/Ferrea 5000 valves, studs and guides, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum rockers, Cam Research solid flat tappet cam 230/235 .560/.560 lift. Will start with a Torker 351 intake and see where it takes me. Compression looks to be 10.5:1 using 66cc chambers, but heads still need to be CCed for real numbers. Should be on the dyno in a couple weeks at most. 

It should make some good numbers. I agree with using the solid flat tappet cam. Keep us updated. Chuck

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On 11/29/2020 at 8:46 PM, Hemikiller said:

Basically a hot stock-ish build. TRW L2379F zero decked, stock crank, stock rods w/ARP2000 hardware. McLeod steel flywheel, Romac damper. Heads are 71 D1AE-GA w/Ferrea 5000 valves, studs and guides, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum rockers, Cam Research solid flat tappet cam 230/235 .560/.560 lift. Will start with a Torker 351 intake and see where it takes me. Compression looks to be 10.5:1 using 66cc chambers, but heads still need to be CCed for real numbers. Should be on the dyno in a couple weeks at most. 

What are your expectations? I say 410 at 5,900

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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On 11/30/2020 at 10:45 PM, tony-muscle said:

What are your expectations? I say 410 at 5,900

I'd be happy with that, obviously more is better  ;D

Heads are on, pushrods on order. 

 

 

IMG_20201204_001356.jpg

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Started color on the body. My neighbor owns a body shop and is showing me how to paint. Got some dust in the Clear. Not sanded or buffed yet. Hood is next

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Edited by cwalker509
typo
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Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.

1971 convertible, H-code, Ram Air

1971 Mach I, M-code, Ram Air

1972 Mexican GT-351

1988 Bronco II

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I finally took the time to get the engine out. The clutch looks real good for almost 10 years and about 50k miles. I've got a bit of cleaning and re-sealing to do on the engine. 

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[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Finally got her back from all the dodgy "specialists" , went off to my paint guy who did an amazing job on it and the suspension is now sorted. 

 

Put my door panels in today , got them from Mustang garage or something, will find the name . Best quality I have seen . sorted out the brake lights which were not working , hooked up the vacume advance on the dizzy and put the grill straight , still need to sort the dizzy out , yesterday the rear view mirror went in and I have no idea why the fuel gauge is not happy , pulled it out twice , measures fine on the bench , bridge wires and it shoots to full , so might need to do that again. 

 

1943489279_WhatsAppImage2020-12-24at19_43.28(1).thumb.jpeg.17a8532594c06518070691166cdaf010.jpeg1066979816_WhatsAppImage2020-12-24at14_37_53.thumb.jpeg.d13d1d596e90bf6ab402e9002df1a362.jpeg408123022_WhatsAppImage2020-12-24at19_43_28.thumb.jpeg.373a331176338e3773a6b3191aaa7410.jpeg

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Your gas gauge problems might be coming from the rear of the car, fuel sending unit or gas tank grounding, electrical connections.

Your door panels do look good.

Edited by Don C
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“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Fitted up some electric fans on mine and got around to changing out one of the rear side marker lights since they back had broken where the light screws in. Pretty happy with the fans, now just need to tackle wiring them in to the Holley Sniper EFI. Still have to find a place to mount the new Sniper ignition box as well. If anyone has any suggestions on someplace that is kinda inconspicuous that would be awesome. 

 

20201223_163349.jpg

20201223_163358.jpg

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13 hours ago, Don C said:

Your gas gauge problems might be coming from the rear of the car, fuel sending unit or gas tank grounding, electrical connections.

Your door panels do look good.

Thanks Don , I suspect its the sending unit , the ground and connectors all test our good, with me bridging them , I took a different path on the doors with the centres in brushed Alu vinyl as opposed to the wood grain. 

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Gas Gauge sorted, seems you need more then 5liters to register on the gauge and the contacts in the sender unit were not making contact. 

Speedo cable installed so thats working now as well.

 

Tomorrow we trace the horns and figure out why they not working . Then Drain the oil , I suspect there is abut 2 liters too much in the motor and about 3 liters too much in the transmission. 

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Have you tried jumping the horns directly from the battery? Pretty common for 50 year old horns to give it up. Also, check the voltage at the horn connectors when someone is pushing the horn.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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If you have correct power at the horn? Turn the screw at the back of the horn 1 turn forward then 1 turn back. This screw sets the vibratory action of the horn. Often it becomes stuck or sticky not allowing the horn to work. If you hear the honk start to work? adjust the screw until you get a good tone.

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On 12/24/2020 at 12:52 PM, shaheenk said:

Finally got her back from all the dodgy "specialists" , went off to my paint guy who did an amazing job on it and the suspension is now sorted. 

 

Put my door panels in today , got them from Mustang garage or something, will find the name . Best quality I have seen . sorted out the brake lights which were not working , hooked up the vacume advance on the dizzy and put the grill straight , still need to sort the dizzy out , yesterday the rear view mirror went in and I have no idea why the fuel gauge is not happy , pulled it out twice , measures fine on the bench , bridge wires and it shoots to full , so might need to do that again. 

 

1066979816_WhatsAppImage2020-12-24at14_37_53.thumb.jpeg.d13d1d596e90bf6ab402e9002df1a362.jpeg

Can you show us a picture of your wheels?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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