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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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Finally pulled the rear end out, pulled the axles, out, and started cleaning it for repainting. Started draining the gas tank to drop it next. I just realized I should pull the exhaust first. I guess I'll do that next. I'm almost done tearing things apart, though!

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Jake

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I looked at the Mach 1 today but had to come up with a solution for all the mud that rain has washed over the gravel in my driveway to shop. I hooked up my little trailer and headed to the quarry. Got 3,240 lbs. in the first load a single axle trailer. Went home and spread on drive and was back to the quarry in 2 hr. 5 min.. Got 3,560 lbs. this trip and just finished putting it down. Now if the rain will hold off might make it to the show on Thursday.
I have had half a dozen people come look and all of them wanted thousands to fix the drive.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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On 3/16/2021 at 7:55 AM, Galucha said:

Today I got the StreetorTrack coilover conversion kit bolted up. The fit and finish is fantastic, so everything went together pretty smoothly. Also got the Baer bump steer kit for the outer tie rods and SoT's camber kit.

The old suspension was CRUSTY... It was a bit overdue for replacing.

Just have a few more minor things to check off the todo list, then should be good to go for a test drive before getting to the alignment shop.

 

 

Nice! Two questions.

What does the bump steer kit does? It seems to lift the rod connection. Do you have a pic?

Did you have any issues with binding between the strut rod and the sway bar? What diameter is the sway bar?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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16 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

Nice! Two questions.

What does the bump steer kit does? It seems to lift the rod connection. Do you have a pic?

Did you have any issues with binding between the strut rod and the sway bar? What diameter is the sway bar?

 

Yeah, so the idea behind the bump steer kit is to prevent any unwanted drift or uncertainty in the steering when encountering bumps or potholes in the road. As the suspension compresses up/down, there is a change in toe. Generally, the more you lower the car, the more bumpsteer you are gonna encounter as the suspension geometry changes from the factory setup. The idea behind the bumpsteer kit, is to use spacers to relocate the tie rods so that they intersect with the car's instant center - if you draw an imaginary line from the upper control arm and from the lower control arm, the instant center would be where they intersect. I'm having my alignment shop use a bump steer gauge to dial in the correct number of spacers so that the bump steer is minimized.

 

No issues whatsoever with the strut rod and sway bar clearance. I'm running the factory sway bar right now, but I'll be getting streetortrack's 1 1/8" sway bar to replace it.

PSX_20210323_100410.jpg

PSX_20210323_100459.jpg

Edited by Galucha

Plain Jane | 1971 F Code Coupe 302/C4 Automatic

Goin' to Town Rig | 1971 F100 Ranger XLT LWB 390FE/C6 Automatic

Commuter | 2018 Tesla Model 3 Midrange RWD

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4 hours ago, Galucha said:

 

Yeah, so the idea behind the bump steer kit is to prevent any unwanted drift or uncertainty in the steering when encountering bumps or potholes in the road. As the suspension compresses up/down, there is a change in toe. Generally, the more you lower the car, the more bumpsteer you are gonna encounter as the suspension geometry changes from the factory setup. The idea behind the bumpsteer kit, is to use spacers to relocate the tie rods so that they intersect with the car's instant center - if you draw an imaginary line from the upper control arm and from the lower control arm, the instant center would be where they intersect. I'm having my alignment shop use a bump steer gauge to dial in the correct number of spacers so that the bump steer is minimized.

 

No issues whatsoever with the strut rod and sway bar clearance. I'm running the factory sway bar right now, but I'll be getting streetortrack's 1 1/8" sway bar to replace it.

 

 

Thank you. I was reading the instructions as well, and with what you are saying, the hardest part may be to find a shop that knows how to setup for bump steer.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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5 hours ago, Galucha said:

 

Yeah, so the idea behind the bump steer kit is to prevent any unwanted drift or uncertainty in the steering when encountering bumps or potholes in the road. As the suspension compresses up/down, there is a change in toe. Generally, the more you lower the car, the more bumpsteer you are gonna encounter as the suspension geometry changes from the factory setup. The idea behind the bumpsteer kit, is to use spacers to relocate the tie rods so that they intersect with the car's instant center - if you draw an imaginary line from the upper control arm and from the lower control arm, the instant center would be where they intersect. I'm having my alignment shop use a bump steer gauge to dial in the correct number of spacers so that the bump steer is minimized.

 

No issues whatsoever with the strut rod and sway bar clearance. I'm running the factory sway bar right now, but I'll be getting streetortrack's 1 1/8" sway bar to replace it.

 

 

@Galucha What spring rate did you go with for your coilovers?

Edited by tony-muscle

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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2 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

@Galucha What spring rate did you go with for your coilovers?

Good question, I didn't actually see a spring rate listed on their site, but I went with the sport profile with small block selected, so I'm pretty sure it's a lighter spring. Rides about how I expected - definitely absorbs bumps in the road better than the stock setup, but not as harsh as a lot of other modern sport cars I've driven. Overall they're a massive improvement over the stock coil springs in terms of how fast they're able to react.

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Plain Jane | 1971 F Code Coupe 302/C4 Automatic

Goin' to Town Rig | 1971 F100 Ranger XLT LWB 390FE/C6 Automatic

Commuter | 2018 Tesla Model 3 Midrange RWD

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Well after shoveling the over 3 tons of gravel yesterday I did get back to the car today. I only have one more day and Thursday have to head to Pigeon Forge, Tenn. for the P.I.T.S. show.
Today I had the car on the 2 post lift and pulled the tires off and scrubbed the show ones good and also the rollers. Will drive the car into trailer and to show inside with the rollers and put the new Goodyear RWL on in the show floor.
I got all the crap off from when I got the car out last had mud at the garage as usual. If I ever win the lottery pave the drive is first on the list.
Have all my original paperwork on a board for display do not know what they will allow. Some shows want you to keep it simple so people move on and do not spend too much time. Crazy I know but have been told that in the past. Also have the Elite Marti and an original 1973 Mustang showroom banner that I got from Daniel Carpenter out of his private collection.
So looking cloudy hope it does not rain. Have not had TV for months so never see the weather. Something happened to my weather ap on the phone also. Will have to check.
So tomorrow will try to start it has not been started in about 16 months I think. I did charge the battery but said was 71% when I hooked up the charger. Was going to pump the old fuel out and put in fresh but it has stabil and Lucas gas additive so will see how it goes.
This is killing the old man. Next week I talk to surgeon on when he can put the plates and screws in my neck so I can function again.
It looks like the Mustang Day celebration at the Mustang Owner's Museum if dead. North Carolina not relaxing the Covid restrictions on gatherings.
BTW the 2 post makes it handy when wiping down the car you put it where you have the least pain and go for it.
Any other members going to the P.I.T.S.? I will be part of the inside 58. At least I will not get wet or snowed on.
Something else I did today I got insurance on the car for first time since 1982. I am not a believer in insurance if they make billions must be cheaper not to have it. I have to show proof of insurance so I got on line filled out the Hagerty form but it did not have the option for just a show car no driving so I called. It was like$440 for $50,000 with limited driving. When I called just for a show car covered while in transport and load and unload and at the show was $276 for $50,000 and if I wanted the option if it were totaled to keep the car and also get the pay out was $318 so I went with that. I do not insure my home or my garage never seen the need if you are safe. No insurance on me either, LOL.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I worked on my car today trouble shooting my climate control system. I took the car out of park so I could get the radio bezel off.  I have a B&M Quicksilver shifter that sits right up against the center stack when in park. When I was done I forgot to put the car back in park.  I went to start it up and was pumping the gas when the engine fired up.  I got it stopped about 2 inches from my workbench.   Talk about puckering up the old sphincter muscle and dam near having a heart attack.   My neutral safety switch was working after my rebuild.  I had added a a/f gauge to the side of the shifter cover a few weeks ago and I must have moved or bent the switch when I had the cover off running the wires. I will definitely be fixing it tomorrow.

   

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Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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11 hours ago, Kilgon said:

  I got it stopped about 2 inches from my workbench.   Talk about puckering up the old sphincter

   

Hi Kilgon -- when I read this, even I puckered up just now 5500 miles away ... did you have a glass of scotch afterward to control the old nerve endings? 

When I first got my beautiful green Sportsroof , A van with no tail lights parked in the middle of the road for what looked like no reason ... I had the horrible Mickey Thompsons on at the time .... I rammed my panicking foot onto the brakes and left a big 11 down the road .... geez that was embarrassing --  I drove the rest of the way home with my eyes out on stalks. 

Edited by 1sostatic
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Enjoy's searching out 71-73 history

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17 hours ago, Kilgon said:

I worked on my car today trouble shooting my climate control system. I took the car out of park so I could get the radio bezel off.  I have a B&M Quicksilver shifter that sits right up against the center stack when in park. When I was done I forgot to put the car back in park.  I went to start it up and was pumping the gas when the engine fired up.  I got it stopped about 2 inches from my workbench.   Talk about puckering up the old sphincter muscle and dam near having a heart attack.   My neutral safety switch was working after my rebuild.  I had added a a/f gauge to the side of the shifter cover a few weeks ago and I must have moved or bent the switch when I had the cover off running the wires. I will definitely be fixing it tomorrow.

   

So.......today is a new day, you made it 24 hours. Have you had a bowl movement yet?  

Happy to here you stopped short of disaster.

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Well the 1973 Mach 1 did start today after sitting for 16 months I think it was. Blew lots of rust out the exhaust. Was watching it idle, which is way too fast, and gas line was leaking at the carburetor connection. The super expensive stuff from Marti. The I.D. of the hose is way too big for the fitting so I put two clamps on. Of course it had rained early this morning but neighbor let me use their paved driveway to load into the trailer.
Trailer needs to be about a foot wider but 8'6" is a big as they go for car hauler. Tough for a 73 year old to climb out the window.
So off to the P.I.T.S. show tomorrow hope the old truck can make the trip.
Got to round up a few tools to take just in case.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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4 hours ago, machattack said:

So.......today is a new day, you made it 24 hours. Have you had a bowl movement yet?  

Happy to here you stopped short of disaster.

It took about that long for it to loosen back up. :biggrin:   I did get my switch fixed today.  It's a micro switch and the way it is mounted makes is easy to knock it out of adjustment if you are working around the shifter with the cover off.  Will have to check it from now on anytime I have the cover off. 

Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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Started the car in the garage for 5 minutes, but not driving since it has no suspension. First time since early November. Started right away but sounding a bit rough.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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So I broke down and ordered the replacement panels for my left rear fender. Now I just need to learn how to weld sheet metal. I think I'll start tearing apart my old rusty charcoal grille that nobody wants to pay $20 for, and weld it back together a dozen times until I get it right. My friend will lend me his MIG, but I will need to get wire and gas. This will be fun... Any advice on what to put on the metal after welding? Should I slap on some POR-15 and then high-build primer?

Jake

Zelda_small.jpg.6c1a098be729b393fbabf9eb641aee82.jpg

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2 hours ago, jakosaur said:

So I broke down and ordered the replacement panels for my left rear fender. Now I just need to learn how to weld sheet metal. I think I'll start tearing apart my old rusty charcoal grille that nobody wants to pay $20 for, and weld it back together a dozen times until I get it right. My friend will lend me his MIG, but I will need to get wire and gas. This will be fun... Any advice on what to put on the metal after welding? Should I slap on some POR-15 and then high-build primer?

If you're welding in a new quarter panel, then you don't want to use por 15 on the outside. Under the wheel housing or inner fender is fine but not on the outside. I always seal everything up with epoxy primer.   I do my metal work, then my mud work, then epoxy primer, then high build primer. Re shoot the high build any where you sand through when blocking till you get it nice and straight. Then shoot a sealer/ epoxy primer, then base coat, then clear coat.  Tons of steps for a nice paint job. 

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Well, today the conversion 3 point seat belts finally arrived from Wesco Performance..........or so I thought. I ordered from Wesco's website, which is not the best as finding the options I wanted were not clear, to me anyways! After many emails back and forth, I got the order sorted. What I ordered was the 3 point retractable seat belt with long 8" sash guide, the long "C" bracket that bolts behind the retractor and the 11" sleeved buckle with starburst buckle as an extra cost item. 

Then I got a phone call from UPS at 8 in the morning a couple of days ago, (Who the heck is up at 8 am when retired!!) wanting money for brokerage fees and taxes. Now, this is where it got interesting, The shipment was not coming from Wesco in California at all, but Seatbelt Solutions in Florida. Not only that, they had it addressed to me c/o Wesco Performance, WTF!

To pay the bill to UPS (on top of the shipping already charged), I had to "sign up" with a UPS account. I could not do it the simple way and just pay through PayPal. 

Anyway, long story short, I got the belts today and as it was unusually warm for March, I decided to get them fitted. The retractor and the C bracket along with the upper long sash guide, literally took minutes. Trying to get the center sleeved belts in was another issue. The curvature is totally wrong for our Mustangs and as the sleeves are blow molded, no way to reshape them. Trust me, I tried and I have 35 years experience working with plastics. In the end, I dumped using the sleeves except for about 3" to cover the bolt anchor to the tunnel. The result is really good as now, the shoulder belt does not cut across my neck as before. There is no twist on the shoulder belt, not like a previous set I bought that did not fit to my satisfaction. I do find it a bit harder to locate the belt to pull it across and buckle up, but some of this is due to bad shoulders and the need to get used to them. (The belts that is)

In conclusion, the long sash guide is a really good idea especially for us shorter people. The center buckle part, I would like to see about 3" longer, but it is acceptable as is without the sleeve. Another little mod I needed to do was to trim the top sash cover because it would not stay in place. Oh well it's not "concours" so who cares.

Pictures to come in an edit. Supper time!

IMG_1712.JPG

IMG_1720.JPG

Edited by Stanglover

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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1 hour ago, Stanglover said:

Well, today the conversion 3 point seat belts finally arrived from Wesco Performance..........or so I thought. I ordered from Wesco's website, which is not the best as finding the options I wanted were not clear, to me anyways! After many emails back and forth, I got the order sorted. What I ordered was the 3 point retractable seat belt with long 8" sash guide, the long "C" bracket that bolts behind the retractor and the 11" sleeved buckle with starburst buckle as an extra cost item. 

Then I got a phone call from UPS at 8 in the morning a couple of days ago, (Who the heck is up at 8 am when retired!!) wanting money for brokerage fees and taxes. Now, this is where it got interesting, The shipment was not coming from Wesco in California at all, but Seatbelt Solutions in Florida. Not only that, they had it addressed to me c/o Wesco Performance, WTF!

To pay the bill to UPS (on top of the shipping already charged), I had to "sign up" with a UPS account. I could not do it the simple way and just pay through PayPal. 

Anyway, long story short, I got the belts today and as it was unusually warm for March, I decided to get them fitted. The retractor and the C bracket along with the upper long sash guide, literally took minutes. Trying to get the center sleeved belts in was another issue. The curvature is totally wrong for our Mustangs and as the sleeves are blow molded, no way to reshape them. Trust me, I tried and I have 35 years experience working with plastics. In the end, I dumped using the sleeves except for about 3" to cover the bolt anchor to the tunnel. The result is really good as now, the shoulder belt does not cut across my neck as before. There is no twist on the shoulder belt, not like a previous set I bought that did not fit to my satisfaction. I do find it a bit harder to locate the belt to pull it across and buckle up, but some of this is due to bad shoulders and the need to get used to them.

In conclusion, the long sash guide is a really good idea especially for us shorter people. The center buckle part, I would like to see about 3" longer, but it is acceptable as is without the sleeve. Another little mod I needed to do was to trim the top sash cover because it would not stay in place. Oh well it's not "concours" so who cares.

Pictures to come in an edit. Supper time!

Interesting. I wonder what kind of sleeve cover you got because mine fit very well. I am curious about what you are saying that there is no twist. I just got mine as well but the belt coming out of the sash extension needs to twist half a turn. We may need to post pictures. BTW, mine is also not that easy to pull out since it locks as you pull. This dis not happen w/o the sash.

This is not the best picture, but this is my center buckle:

20210225_001307.thumb.jpg.7e811add5b3823382a4e057f0553827d.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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4 minutes ago, tony-muscle said:

Interesting. I wonder what kind of sleeve cover you got because mine fit very well. I am curious about what you are saying that there is no twist. I just got mine as well but the belt coming out of the sash extension needs to twist half a turn. We may need to post pictures. BTW, mine is also not that easy to pull out since it locks as you pull. This dis not happen w/o the sash.

This is not the best picture, but this is my center buckle:

20210225_001307.thumb.jpg.7e811add5b3823382a4e057f0553827d.jpg

That looks to be a different sleeve, Tony. The one I have holds the buckle away from the seat. I looked at installing it backwards, but no go there either. In short, these sleeves have too much curve to them. A bit annoying. 

As for the belt through the sash, I had to reverse the passenger side one, then it was correct. It may just have been assembled that way OR they are all made as driver side belts if you get what I'm saying.

IMG_1714.JPG

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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14 hours ago, Stanglover said:

That looks to be a different sleeve, Tony. The one I have holds the buckle away from the seat. I looked at installing it backwards, but no go there either. In short, these sleeves have too much curve to them. A bit annoying. 

As for the belt through the sash, I had to reverse the passenger side one, then it was correct. It may just have been assembled that way OR they are all made as driver side belts if you get what I'm saying.

IMG_1714.JPG

I see. I can't remember if mine were straight. I agree that it will fit our seats if they were 2-3" longer, but not a huge deal.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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14 hours ago, Stanglover said:

That looks to be a different sleeve, Tony. The one I have holds the buckle away from the seat. I looked at installing it backwards, but no go there either. In short, these sleeves have too much curve to them. A bit annoying. 

As for the belt through the sash, I had to reverse the passenger side one, then it was correct. It may just have been assembled that way OR they are all made as driver side belts if you get what I'm saying.

IMG_1714.JPG

I found an older picture of mine. They were curved the other way. 

 

20160825_004811.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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14 hours ago, Stanglover said:

A couple more pics.

I trimmed the old caps to fit better. 

IMG_1719 (2)_LI.jpg

IMG_1710 (2).JPG

My sash has a plastic sleeve. The belt has to twist about 90 degrees to go over the shoulder. In your case I assume the sash will take some of the twist. Can you post a picture of it over your shoulder while you are sitting?

Edited by tony-muscle

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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1 hour ago, tony-muscle said:

My sash has a plastic sleeve. The belt has to twist about 90 degrees to go over the shoulder. In your case I assume the sash will take some of the twist. Can you post a picture of it over your shoulder while you are sitting?

Tony, yes, I was planning on doing that pic, but continuing in the original post. 

I thought from the pictures on Wesco, that there was a cover over the sash, but when I looked closer, it didn't. I was not able to find the set you got. Who did you buy from?

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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