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What did you do to your car today?


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1 hour ago, droptop73 said:

It's worse when you have big ham hands like I do... 

Its the ham that caused the hands..................................

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I see more and more various people getting the johnson and johnson vaccine. This touches close to home for my family. My oldest daughter works for Grand River Aseptic in Michigan. Her job is basically

Today, I took Frank out to get his annual inspection for registration, and decided that since it was such a nice day, I’d stretch the ride home out a bit and swung by the Vietnam Memorial at the airpo

now with bumper tuck on the rear and some shots in the sun      WhatsApp Video 2021-03-03 at 13.38.36.mp4

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17 hours ago, computercarguy said:

Step 1 of E.F.I. swap) Installed the intank fuel pump.

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Did this come with a crash cut off switch ?

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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On 72 I replaced carpet and dash pad. Installed new speaker and got it mostly put back together. I am going to send ammeter out to be converted to voltmeter. Found more evidence that car sat for quite a while.....dessicated baby mice and nest under back seat. Also found some money including more Mexican coins. Car still has the paper sill plate things. Replaced seat tracks on drivers seat. Very close to taking it for an inspection.  Added the seat belts. Someone had replaced the carpet recently but used very cheap carpet and did not put the belts back in. Luckily I had a set. I could not find the holes for rear belts so I left those out. When I get the car on the lift I will try to remember to look for them. Rim blow switch is on order for wheel refresh

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Edited by cwalker509
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Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.

1971 convertible, H-code, Ram Air

1971 Mach I, M-code, Ram Air

1972 Mexican GT-351

1988 Bronco II

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23 hours ago, mudbilly said:

Did this come with a crash cut off switch ?

I'm going to have to supply an inertia switch. I have one from a Bronco II parts vehicle. Trying to decide where I want to put it.  The Holley Sniper controls the fuel pump relay.

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Well, today was the FIRST day at work on my 1972 Mach 1 from High School. (Great story, I will post up in another area on this site later.)

Today I removed front and rear spoilers. I don't like them any more, and I prefer the cleaner lines (available for $250 for all to local DFW folks for pick-up!) I also removed an after market console (functional but ugly), the spare tire and jack from the trunk, and installed some new 215/70-14's in the front and 225/70-14's in the rear.....That helped vs the old 235/60-14's that were in place on the Magnums. Turned the letters in. That helped some more :) New Brakes, shocks, springs are next, in addition to lots of little things. Great looking car IMHO.  Car is sitting lower in right than left in the rear by an inch. I am hoping springs cure a portion of this differential.

AFTER picture is first, BEFORE picture is second.

 

 

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My Original (from High School!) 1972 Mach 1 / 2014 F150 / 2018 Porsche Panamera

 

 

 

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Took out A/C heater box, few engine bay components, removed the hood, removed RH quarter window + mechanism, checked out my floor and cowl. Managed to poke holes in cowl with screwdriver. Not yet sure on how to proceed, will post elsewhere about that. Current state:

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Good times!

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Got temporary wheel installed on 72 GT-351 and posted a walk around. Replaced dash pad on 71 Mach 1. Almost got dash out of parts car. Taking my time. Old plastic is fragile. Washed both of those cars as well (not the parts car lol)

Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.

1971 convertible, H-code, Ram Air

1971 Mach I, M-code, Ram Air

1972 Mexican GT-351

1988 Bronco II

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I finished routing the front wiring harness and started making connections. I went from the frame rail to the boxed section of the radiator support then up through the bottom of the plates below the headlights.

The Painless Performance kit has plenty of wire length to make the multiple connections to the marker lights, turn signals and running lights... It's gonna look like a CHRISTmas tree out front. LOL!

I'm using the 71-72 turn signals below the bumper and the 73 grille lights as running lights. I'm deciding whether to make the side markers flash with the turn signals. It's a rather simple change in the harness. 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Last Friday, I removed all the remaining things under the back of the car. I had to remove the rear bumper and valence in order to get the gas tank out. Took about 4 hours to get the tank out, and what should I find but perfect paint. It didn't need to be removed after all. Now I'm spending a hundred bucks replacing all the hardware and software from the tank, bumper, and valence for no reason. Oh well. The last thing to take out of the underside of the car is the transmission, which I've removed all hardware from, and it won't budge. I'm not sure what's holding it in, but it's stuck to the engine. I think I might lift it up tomorrow and start trying to wiggle it in the up position rather than down. All I can think of anyway. After that, it'll be a very long slog of removing the rust, cleaning, and painting the underside. Wish me luck!

Jake

Zelda_small.jpg.6c1a098be729b393fbabf9eb641aee82.jpg

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On 3/22/2021 at 6:00 PM, tony-muscle said:

Nice! Two questions.

What does the bump steer kit does? It seems to lift the rod connection. Do you have a pic?

Did you have any issues with binding between the strut rod and the sway bar? What diameter is the sway bar?

So the 1 1/8" front sway bar I ordered came in yesterday, and after checking clearance between it and the strut rod, I can say it's tight! But fortunately no binding issues. I tested the clearance at several compression levels throughout the suspension travel, and the closest it came was 1/4" from the strut rod.

 

Took the car for an hour long test drive through the mountains and it was phenomenal. Virtually no body roll and incredible grip, but I could feel that my BFG radials were about at their limit, so it's probably time to start looking for some higher performance wheels & tires.

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Plain Jane | 1971 F Code Coupe 302/C4 Automatic

Goin' to Town Rig | 1971 F100 Ranger XLT LWB 390FE/C6 Automatic

Commuter | 2018 Tesla Model 3 Midrange RWD

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2 hours ago, Galucha said:

So the 1 1/8" front sway bar I ordered came in yesterday, and after checking clearance between it and the strut rod, I can say it's tight! But fortunately no binding issues. I tested the clearance at several compression levels throughout the suspension travel, and the closest it came was 1/4" from the strut rod.

 

Took the car for an hour long test drive through the mountains and it was phenomenal. Virtually no body roll and incredible grip, but I could feel that my BFG radials were about at their limit, so it's probably time to start looking for some higher performance wheels & tires.

 

 

Which brand of sway bar are you using?

A 1/4" gap is better than what I have. With a 1 1/8" sway bar and Maier's suspension I am getting a hair of a gap. I still have not driven the car and needs to be aligned. I will approximate camber with an inclinometer and toe-in by eye before taking it for alignment. The suspension has adjustable coil overs. For now I will have it sit at 1" below stock. Hopefully this weekend I will know if I have binding on the road.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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1 hour ago, tony-muscle said:

Which brand of sway bar are you using?

A 1/4" gap is better than what I have. With a 1 1/8" sway bar and Maier's suspension I am getting a hair of a gap. I still have not driven the car and needs to be aligned. I will approximate camber with an inclinometer and toe-in by eye before taking it for alignment. The suspension has adjustable coil overs. For now I will have it sit at 1" below stock. Hopefully this weekend I will know if I have binding on the road.

I'm using scott drake's sway bar. Normally I try to avoid their products, but this one seems to be decent quality. I was leaning towards an Addco sway bar, but my coilover manufacturer recommended scott drake's bar due to potential clearance issues with other brands. 

 

Hopefully the alignment gets you some more clearance. I would imagine the caster angle would have a pretty big impact on it. I'm also running about a 1 inch drop vs stock ride height.

Plain Jane | 1971 F Code Coupe 302/C4 Automatic

Goin' to Town Rig | 1971 F100 Ranger XLT LWB 390FE/C6 Automatic

Commuter | 2018 Tesla Model 3 Midrange RWD

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1 hour ago, Galucha said:

I'm using scott drake's sway bar. Normally I try to avoid their products, but this one seems to be decent quality. I was leaning towards an Addco sway bar, but my coilover manufacturer recommended scott drake's bar due to potential clearance issues with other brands. 

 

Hopefully the alignment gets you some more clearance. I would imagine the caster angle would have a pretty big impact on it. I'm also running about a 1 inch drop vs stock ride height.

Which coilover are you using?

 

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Of course fitment is important! however the steel used is more critical.

If a person wanted to check just how good is the sway bar material used (most important) ? take it to a tool and die shop  or a large machine shop. They can rockwell test the bar for hardness of the material used. If they used a non carbon steel? your going to have issues down the road. 

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40 minutes ago, tony-muscle said:

Which coilover are you using?

 

StreetorTrack's full coilover conversion.

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Plain Jane | 1971 F Code Coupe 302/C4 Automatic

Goin' to Town Rig | 1971 F100 Ranger XLT LWB 390FE/C6 Automatic

Commuter | 2018 Tesla Model 3 Midrange RWD

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41 minutes ago, machattack said:

Of course fitment is important! however the steel used is more critical.

If a person wanted to check just how good is the sway bar material used (most important) ? take it to a tool and die shop  or a large machine shop. They can rockwell test the bar for hardness of the material used. If they used a non carbon steel? your going to have issues down the road. 

Very true. I couldn't find much info on this specific sway bar's material other than the manufacturer saying it's a "high carbon steel with forged ends", so that leads me to believe it's some proprietary blend of 11 herbs & spices.

Plain Jane | 1971 F Code Coupe 302/C4 Automatic

Goin' to Town Rig | 1971 F100 Ranger XLT LWB 390FE/C6 Automatic

Commuter | 2018 Tesla Model 3 Midrange RWD

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45 minutes ago, Galucha said:

Very true. I couldn't find much info on this specific sway bar's material other than the manufacturer saying it's a "high carbon steel with forged ends", so that leads me to believe it's some proprietary blend of 11 herbs & spices.

These days they may add a little bit of COVID to make the sway bars stiffer.

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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Stick Gator was toast... all perished away 

So wanted to make a hairy version like the Jagwaar XJS has ( I had one years ago - V12)

So what you need to do to start - is get inspiration from thinking about your stick coming through something hairy.  However you want to do this is up to you. :biggrin:

see pics for the process of getting a hairy stick. :classic_tongue:

Before ...

 

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the gator had gone and only the retainer left over 

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I bent my stiff bits to the right curve --- then trimmed my pubes to the right length with a little interlacing between partners. 

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Mounted them and epoxy was used to make sure they stayed put. 

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Now I have my stick protruding through hair/pubes :classic_biggrin::thumb:  ...nothing like having a hairy stick :classic_laugh:

 

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Edited by 1sostatic
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Enjoy's searching out 71-73 history

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I put the steering box and linkage back in the car but not much else. Kinda disappointed on what I did on the car but I did get some yard work done. 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Body shop was not happy with the way the bonnet looked. Felt it needed something extra so put some inserts on 

 

 

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On your 8-Track. I have several in car and in home. One thing that people do not think much about are the tapes. There is a place on the net that sells new rubber wheels and one thing that goes bad is the foam pad behind the tape. Will cause the player to eat the tape. Be sure can clean the head and the drive on the side that pulls the tape across. If it gets dirty tape will surely stick and make a mess. You can get them to wind back up sometimes by pulling on the tape fast and it will rewind sometimes. It is tricky getting the cases apart you have to pry the hooked pins to the side and spread the case open. I might have 50 or so tapes.
So go search the net and find the repair parts for the tapes so you do not eat them all up.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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