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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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I did this a few weeks ago, but I thought I'd get up to date. I ground the rust and gunk off the underbody and put POR-15 on everything. It looks about 100% better under there. I need to put a coat of the rubber undercoating over the POR-15 now that it's dry, and then it's time to repair the rust holes in the body, then I finally get to start putting it all back together again! I just need the time, which has been hard to find lately.

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Jake

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I've put a Fitech Fuel Injection System on my 72 Mach 1.

I would advise anyone considering fuel injection not consider fitech. I've had nothing but trouble with mine.

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2 hours ago, eddyk said:

I've put a Fitech Fuel Injection System on my 72 Mach 1.

I would advise anyone considering fuel injection not consider fitech. I've had nothing but trouble with mine.

I have a Fitech system and I am 90% happy with it. I hear horror stories from the Holley Sniper camp as well. This are my thoughts. Don't purchase either of these systems if you believe they will be truly bolt-on. If you are going after maximum tuning flexibility and high end use, go with a higher end system, but you will need to open your wallet a lot more.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Tony, I have heard the same thing from several friends. A couple gave up and went back to a carb. Chuck

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On 8/9/2021 at 8:21 PM, Idaho Chris said:

Wow, what a day.  This morning I finished up a few odds and ends on the Mach 1; filled the power steering pump, installed spark plugs, and a final brake bleed all four corners.  I installed a couple of temporary exhaust turn downs on the mufflers as I will need a muffler shop to install the tail pipes.  Some adjustment will be necessary to get the chrome tips to properly line up with the rear valence cutouts.

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Next I pushed my old girl out of the shop in preparation for the first engine start in almost 30 years.  I truly did not know what to expect.  I have done a bunch of work on the car over the past months.  So many changes all at once including a transmission swap means there are so many things that could go wrong.

After dumping 5 gallons of non-ethanol premium in the tank, I disconnected the coil and cranked the engine to prime the fuel bowls and circulate the oil.  I re-connected the coil and pulled a plug wire to confirm I had spark.  You never know after installing a new engine wiring harness, new distributor, new plug wires and a new coil, but good news… I had spark.

Well, time for the moment of truth.

With a remote starter switch hooked up to the solenoid and a fire extinguisher close at hand I pushed the button…

Bam! She fired right up on the first crank without a stumble or a missed beat.  I’m not sure the crankshaft even made a full rotation before firing off!  Idle was a little high, but otherwise smooth as silk.

The first video below was taken 30 seconds after firing off. I looked for leaks and walked around the back to smell/listen to the exhaust and shot the video.

Unbelievable.  The car started and ran as if she had been my daily driver.  I quite literally had tears in my eyes.  Here she was…my first car…alive again after all these years!!

Back to the front of the car…a little fiddling with the idle screw… watching for leaks/smoke…I let her warm up and goosed the throttle a couple times.  Electric choke needed no adjustment and the now warm engine settled down to a smooth idle of around 1000 rpm (tach works!).

I shot the next video. 

As you can see/hear, she’s clearly running smoothly on all eight.

After a quick adjustment of the timing and adjusting the idle to around 750 rpm I shut her down and just stood there smiling and laughing…

Well…WTF…I don’t need no stinkin’ registration or insurance…I installed the air cleaner, grabbed my wallet and jumped it.  She fired right up again and I drove into town 15 miles round trip and topped off the tank.

Clutch worked smoothly, transmission shifted like butter, no noise from the new Eaton rear end, power brakes worked, power steering made no noise, hell, even the “eyeball” front end alignment wasn’t bad!

I am so happy I am giddy.  I have been sitting staring at the old girl all afternoon re-living my youth.

Life is good indeed!

 

 

That is great. When you watch what you are doing and do it right it will come out right. Dr's. are only ones that bury their mistakes.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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There is an exception to docs.

Body men bury there mistakes. Some bury worse mistakes than others.

Edited by machattack
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3 hours ago, droptop73 said:

Just getting the car ready for Power Tour. Mechanically it's as good as it's gonna get. Brakes are bled and it's stopping good, gas gauge is working, I want to re-wire the tach and get a couple of power ports working. Beside that it's just clean it up, pack some tools and gear then pick up my dad and hit the road. 

Looking forward to meeting you in the HRPT. My car is ready as well. I am bringing a trunk full of tools and parts so there will be a lot of help if needed.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Pulled the dash out and then the heater box so that I can clean everything and replace the heater core. I have new switches and a harness that was repaired by Midlife going back in. So close to getting this car on the road, the suspense is killing me! Another good thing is that my cowl was in great shape when I pulled the heater box out. Made me smile a little. 

Tom

 

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On 8/17/2021 at 11:22 AM, tony-muscle said:

Looking forward to meeting you in the HRPT. My car is ready as well. I am bringing a trunk full of tools and parts so there will be a lot of help if needed.

I pack a decent array of tools along with a small floor jack and a folding jack stand a small pop-up and the necessities. You know, a cooler with snacks and beverages... 

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[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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I put on my new plates that finally arrived in the mail today…was tough to come up with a custom plate that wasn’t already taken. I still prefer my original 1971-1973 Minnesota plates, but at least I’m legal now. 6338732D-1A24-47AB-B4DD-F1363D99FE04.thumb.jpeg.71df290e22bd5041f200c49558232c9e.jpeg

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Jason
1973 Mach1 Q-code

My carbon footprint is exceptionally large.

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I noticed last weekend that the front right brake is getting warmer than the left, and that the pony is pulling lightly to the right when braking. 
After disassembling the brake drum I found the cause. The lower sliding points for the brake shoes have deep grooves and therefore the brake can no longer open completely. 

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Does anyone here have two of these brake anchor plates, a left and a right one, in good condition left and would send me across the big pond to Germany?

Cheers Frank

1972 Mach 1, 351C-2V, wimbledon white, blue all vinyl luxury

born in Dearborn, grown in the district of San José, spent a lifetime in California, moved to Germany in 2010

Mustang_Mach1_wallpaper_300_150.jpg proud member of clublogozusammen.JPG.59fb4a10d15cfff9ec756235059135b8.JPG

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4 hours ago, Hemikiller said:

 

Weld up the grooves and grind them flat, easy repair and no need to replace. 

Ok. Will try it this way. I'm not a trained welder but as the saying goes: you grow with your tasks. :whistling: 

1972 Mach 1, 351C-2V, wimbledon white, blue all vinyl luxury

born in Dearborn, grown in the district of San José, spent a lifetime in California, moved to Germany in 2010

Mustang_Mach1_wallpaper_300_150.jpg proud member of clublogozusammen.JPG.59fb4a10d15cfff9ec756235059135b8.JPG

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Front drums eh! Why not look at doing a simple front disc brake conversion. You don't need to spend tons of money or buy a fancy disc set-up. I'm not sure if they're still available as SSBC were bought out I believe, but I put the SSBC 4 piston Kelsey-Hayes style front conversion that bolts on to drum spindles. The kit I bought had the master cylinder and rear bias valve. It's really not hard to do and well worth it. At first I drove the car without a power booster and really, I could have left it that way. 

Just a thought to help you spend your money! If not, do as Hemi suggests. 

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Continued my battle against leaks.  Gave up on the aluminum Cleveland timing cover and went back to a steel one.  I am convinced the aluminum ones are too flexible.  After it leaked twice I decided to round bin it.  Also took out the thermostat since I was running one of those “Pantera” style restrictors that allow the use of non-Cleveland thermostats.  Getting the old restrictor out involved use of force.  Slide hammer, drill and body saw.
 

Now ready for a TMeyer Cleveland and restrictor to show up in the mail.  I’m going back to the OEM style with the hat on the thermostat.  

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Made a new glove box out of 1/8" ABS sheeting.

 

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It was fairly easy to do, pulled the staples out of the old cardboard box, spread it out and traced it onto the ABS sheet and cut it out. The hardest part was getting the bends right using a heat gun, practiced with some scraps, first. Used ABS cement to connect the sides to the back piece. Used the old plastic trim. A test fit was good.

I'm going to try a spray on flocking on the inside, or maybe line it with felt, I haven't used to flock stuff before, don't know if it is durable.

Edited by Don C
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“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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