Edelbrock Electric Choke Wiring

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Aug 19, 2011
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Location
Houston, TX
My Car
2010 Ford F150 Screw
2010 Buick Lacrosse
2002 Triumph Trophy
1972 Mustang Grande
1954 Ford F100
Can anyone give a good location to where I should land these 2 wires. One is red and one is black. Where should I put them to enable the electric choke. Best conditions please.

 
Edelbrock tells you this http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/1000/1400.pdf and it will work. Starting sometime around February or March 1972 Ford started transitioning to electric chokes. The ground was picked up through the 3 retaining screws on the choke element. Switched 12v (on when in RUN, off when not) was supplied from the STA (stator) post on the alternator through a single wire connector near the regulator. If the car came with electric choke the wire should be white with a black stripe. So, any good ground and a connection to the STA post on the alternator will work. Chuck

 
Does your car have the existing single wire connector near the regulator? If so, do you know the build date, always gathering production change data.

Thanks, Chuck

 
Well I got the new spark plugs on and I put the new wires on and hooked up the electric choke. Hooked up all of the hoses and started the car. It will not idle for crap. I have to increase the idle and it sounds rough. Sounds like a harley running which is pretty much how it has sounded since I installed the new carb a year ago. I adjusted the timing and made sure all of the hoses were good and it still runs rough. It has to be the carb or the intake but I have no idea how to figure out what the problem is. I think I will be contacting the local mustang guys for help. New filter, new fuel pump, new fuel hoses, new electronic ignition, edelbrock intake and carb, e3 spark plugs and tayler racing wires and it still runs like crap. I give up.

 
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Do any of you live close to Houston and have a spare carb. I want to find out whether its the carb or the intake thats my problem. 4bbl is what I need. Or if you know anyone locally that will let me use it for a day. Thanks

 
Have you checked for a vacuum leak? Pretty common when replacing a carb and getting a defective gasket, not tightening the bolts properly (too much can warp the base), etc.. I would start there then start looking at everything else.

 
The problem is that I have all new hoses and have plugged every nipple on the intake manifold looking for a leak. Its either the intake seal to the heads or block or its something with the carb and I do not know how to determine which one so I need a fairly good 4bbl carb to verify its not the carb.

 
No but now that you mentioned it thats a great idea. I suspect you mean something like starter fluid around the intake manifold seals or around the base of the carb. Great idea. I assume that the engine should start revving up if there is a leak, correct?

 
Turn the car on, have it idling. Using spray carb cleaner, spray around the base of the carb, that sort of thing. If the engine speed picks up or smooths out briefly as you spray an area, you've found your leak.

Also, with respect to hoses: are you sure they're all hooked up to the correct place on both ends?

 
Turn the car on, have it idling. Using spray carb cleaner, spray around the base of the carb, that sort of thing. If the engine speed picks up or smooths out briefly as you spray an area, you've found your leak.

Also, with respect to hoses: are you sure they're all hooked up to the correct place on both ends?
As for the hoses they are exactly where they were when I took of the original hoses. The carb has one going in on the left side and thats what the manual told me to do. Left side if you are in front of the car.

 
Turn the car on, have it idling. Using spray carb cleaner, spray around the base of the carb, that sort of thing. If the engine speed picks up or smooths out briefly as you spray an area, you've found your leak.

Also, with respect to hoses: are you sure they're all hooked up to the correct place on both ends?
Well you nailed it and you will never guess where the leak is. I sprayed the carb bottom and nothing. Sprayed all of the fittings on the carb and on the left side of the carb it started revving the engine up. So I then went all around the intake manifold and nothing. I sprayed all of the hoses from end to end and nothing. Then I sprayed on the left side of the intake and it started revving up again. I narrawed down the sprayer so that it only hit the left side of the carb and nothing. Then I focused on the intake in that area and nothing........ right. So then I sprayed around the cover that goes over the port where a thermal tube for a factory carb would be attached and the engine went nuts. I mean it revved up like I had my hand on the throttle cable. One of the best places I could have a leak and easy to fix. So tomorrow I will pull the carb and take that cover off and reseal it. I also noted that when I sprayed around the distributer vacuum advance module I got a bit of a rev too so it might be leaking as well. However the cover I mentioned has to be a serious bad leak. Thank you for the great idea and I will let you guys know tomorrow if the car is running great. BTW, this makes sense because I really really did a great job when installing the intake and the carb gaskets are all new. Wish me luck.

 
Turn the car on, have it idling. Using spray carb cleaner, spray around the base of the carb, that sort of thing. If the engine speed picks up or smooths out briefly as you spray an area, you've found your leak.

Also, with respect to hoses: are you sure they're all hooked up to the correct place on both ends?
Well you nailed it and you will never guess where the leak is. I sprayed the carb bottom and nothing. Sprayed all of the fittings on the carb and on the left side of the carb it started revving the engine up. So I then went all around the intake manifold and nothing. I sprayed all of the hoses from end to end and nothing. Then I sprayed on the left side of the intake and it started revving up again. I narrawed down the sprayer so that it only hit the left side of the carb and nothing. Then I focused on the intake in that area and nothing........ right. So then I sprayed around the cover that goes over the port where a thermal tube for a factory carb would be attached and the engine went nuts. I mean it revved up like I had my hand on the throttle cable. One of the best places I could have a leak and easy to fix. So tomorrow I will pull the carb and take that cover off and reseal it. I also noted that when I sprayed around the distributer vacuum advance module I got a bit of a rev too so it might be leaking as well. However the cover I mentioned has to be a serious bad leak. Thank you for the great idea and I will let you guys know tomorrow if the car is running great. BTW, this makes sense because I really really did a great job when installing the intake and the carb gaskets are all new. Wish me luck.
It sounds like the "thermal tube" is the factory choke heat tube that is heated by the exhaust cross over passage cast into the intake manifold. Did sealing it fix the problem? Chuck

 
No, it did not. In fact I used a very good gasket sealer and it still leaks there. Its a smaller leak but it still leaking there. I am able to get a lower idle speed now so I was able to adjust the carb a bit. However I still have to pull the carb again and try to seal it one more time. Any chance the leak could be around those bolt holes on the cover? Also I still get a small rev and a popping sound when I spray on the distributer vacuum advance. Any ideas?

 

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