351C -2V Header and Transmission Fitment

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rhazbun

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2011
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Location
San Francisco, CA
My Car
1973 Mustang Mach I
Hi Everyone! I'm a first time poster but long time reader.

I've just kicked my 73 Mach I project into high gear. I'm about to purchase a TKO-600 to mate to the 351C-2V which is currently on an engine stand. I also need to purchase headers. A mustang monthly article where they describe the installation of the TKO-600 into a 71, and mentions that the header needed to be dented to clear the belhousing. Specifically, the bellhousing has an 'ear' for mounting the clutch cable, and this butts right up against one of the header tubes on the driver side.

I'm wondering if anyone has first hand experience with this, and / or, if they can make recommendations on headers or a bellhousing that doesn't have the problem.

My goal is to sort out any issues with fitment before dropping the engine and transmission into the engine well.

Thanks in advance!

 
not sur on this tranny but my top loader will not clear the headers attatched to the tranny. iT HAS TO GO ON FIRST THE THE TRANNY
Click to expand...
Thanks Tnfastbk. I'm building the engine / transmission combo on a stand so I'll be able to see any interference right away. I just want to choose the correct parts before buying them.

Here's a link to the mustang monthly article I was referring to:

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_1010_how_to_install_a_five_speed_in_a_1971_to_1973_mustang/index.html

I spoke with Wayne at Restomods plus for details. This was a 351C with 4V heads and Patriot headers with 2 1/8" primary tubes. Since I have a 351C -2V, he suggested I stay conservative and use headers with either 1 3/4" or 1 5/8" primary tubes to ensure the maximum amount of clearance.

 
I've been looking into headers too with a similar setup (except I have 4V heads, P/S, cable clutch linkage, McLeod scattershield and TKO-500, which has same case as your tko-600).

I read in many posts that the major interference is the clutch linkage and power steering, you didn't mention your setup for those items.

Shorty headers (like Sandreson) might be the the only way to go, at least for my configuration. Ground clearence with long tubes is a concideration too.

 
I've been looking into headers too with a similar setup (except I have 4V heads, P/S, cable clutch linkage, McLeod scattershield and TKO-500, which has same case as your tko-600).

I read in many posts that the major interference is the clutch linkage and power steering, you didn't mention your setup for those items.

Shorty headers (like Sandreson) might be the the only way to go, at least for my configuration. Ground clearence with long tubes is a concideration too.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. I do have Power Steering. Since the was originally an automatic with an FMX, I'll have to figure out how to install the clutch linkage / pedals. I understand that the way to go is using the modern driveline mechanical clutch kit and getting an original clutch pedal kit / bracket from perogie enterprises.

I had completely forgotten about Sanderson headers. I think you might be right that the best way to avoid problems is using shorty's and just bending the exhaust to fit the car once the engine and transmission are in.

I've seen so many pictures of people with 71-73 mustangs on this forum who have TKO's and long tube headers. I'd love to hear their stories of how they got everything to fit.

 
With long tubes you need a drop down bracket, not needed with Sanderson shortys.

I don't have first hand experience but I've read that the bracket can be problematic.

Maybe someone has built a better bracket?

I also read that hydraulic clutch linkage fits better than a cable, with long tubes.

You can now buy a new repro clutch pedal from Modern. I had to find a used one, which was

almost a deal breaker because manuals are rare in these cars.

You DON"T need to change the pedal bracket or even take out the brake pedal. Just trim the brake pedal to match a new smaller brake pedal pad. The origional mounting bracket is the same for auto/manual.

I would also like to hear from someone if shortys have any noticable power increase over the stock manifolds.

Everybody says long tubes definatly do but nobody has any feedback on the shortys.

Some of the LT guys said that shortys don't give the power increase like LTs, but

Sanderson says that their's actually do better on the street (ie, better low-end).

 
Last edited by a moderator:
With long tubes you need a drop down bracket, not needed with Sanderson shortys.

I don't have first hand experience but I've read that the bracket can be problematic.

Maybe someone has built a better bracket?

I also read that hydraulic clutch linkage fits better than a cable, with long tubes.

You can now buy a new repro clutch pedal from Modern. I had to find a used one, which was

almost a deal breaker because manuals are rare in these cars.

You DON"T need to change the pedal bracket or even take out the brake pedal. Just trim the brake pedal to match a new smaller brake pedal pad. The origional mounting bracket is the same for auto/manual.

I would also like to hear from someone if shortys have any noticable power increase over the stock manifolds.

Everybody says long tubes definatly do but nobody has any feedback on the shortys.

Some of the LT guys said that shortys don't give the power increase like LTs, but

Sanderson says that their's actually do better on the street (ie, better low-end).
Click to expand...

When I spoke with Wayne at Restomod's plus in Florida, he suggested that the stock 4V manifold was already pretty good and that unless you have a heavily modified engine, you aren't going to see much of a performance increase. Apparently, he spent alot of time running 'tests' on the various manifolds and headers. He said the same is not true for the 2V manifold. Thanks for the info on the clutch pedal setup.

On a slightly different note, how much did you have to cut the body to get the TKO to fit? Who did you buy the TKO from? What crossmember did you use?

 
I answered the fitment on your other thread, in short: no cutting at all.

Shop around for the Tko, I bought mine about 4 years ago so now you might find

a better deal somewhere else.

Thanks for the info about 4v manifolds vs shortys, it's sort-of what I suspected. The 4v intake is good too, other than being alittle heavy. It flows about the same as an Edel Performer.

Maybe I'll just put on a 2.5" exhaust instead.

Leaky headers is no fun. The good ones that don't leak (as much) are expensive. Plus then there's the heat problem. The engine compartment gets really hot with headers. Get them ceramic coated to cut down some of the heat.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I've been looking into headers too with a similar setup (except I have 4V heads, P/S, cable clutch linkage, McLeod scattershield and TKO-500, which has same case as your tko-600).

I read in many posts that the major interference is the clutch linkage and power steering, you didn't mention your setup for those items.

Shorty headers (like Sandreson) might be the the only way to go, at least for my configuration. Ground clearence with long tubes is a concideration too.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. I do have Power Steering. Since the was originally an automatic with an FMX, I'll have to figure out how to install the clutch linkage / pedals. I understand that the way to go is using the modern driveline mechanical clutch kit and getting an original clutch pedal kit / bracket from perogie enterprises.

I had completely forgotten about Sanderson headers. I think you might be right that the best way to avoid problems is using shorty's and just bending the exhaust to fit the car once the engine and transmission are in.

I've seen so many pictures of people with 71-73 mustangs on this forum who have TKO's and long tube headers. I'd love to hear their stories of how they got everything to fit.
Click to expand...
Check out my thread on the America Powertrain hydraulic setup. I like it as I had none of the z bar and associated parts

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-zbar-info-help

 
I have sanderson shortys and the only thing I had to do was cut off a corner with the rivit on the left motor mount and wire weld the the metal back together, kinda rounded out the corner. Have a toploader in my car so muffler shop was able to route the system so no problem with linkage. My car too started off with a FMX

 

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