351w build suggestions

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73 Mach 1 Mustang (project)
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Some of you may know I have been working on my brother's ford f350 dump truck. I took the motor and trans out so I can go through them because the truck had been sitting for at least 6 years. I'm just planning on doing gaskets and seals but would like any suggestions to make the motor more dependable and powerful. It is a 84 351w 2 bolt main :dodgy: with a 2 barrel carb. I was thinking of getting an aluminum intake with a 4 barrel and some headers. Also, I was going to get rid of the emissions stuff. Any suggestions to get more torque out of the motor?

here's a few pics of the motor

100_4695.jpg


100_4707.jpg


100_4705.jpg


Thanks for looking.

 
I would investigate maybe stroking it... I know it's popular with Clevelands, but not sure about Windsor... Check out the 351 Cleveland site, there is also a section for the 400M that was a popular truck motor. Guy Meyer up there in MN has done some good work and has a nice website...

http://www.tmeyerinc.com/400ford.html

 
Stroking it will be a great way to get some torque, you can easily go over 400 cubes. That with a good dual plane manifold and an RV/towing cam should give you all kinds of power. Summit lists several combinations and brands of stroker kits.

 
Thanks guys for the stroker idea, I guess we'll have to see if there are any surprises when we take the motor apart because we are on a tight budget.

 
You will probably want to replace the rings too, but I would say the 4 barrel and headers would be a good idea and maybe an RV cam and new lifters depending budget. Be sure to check the rod and main bearings as well.

 
You might consider a cam like this. http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2464

Or a less expensive one like this. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K4400/ This is basically the Ford Marine engine cam from the 70s. If you use anything close to the specs of these cams set initial timing at 12-14 degrees advance.

Both would work well using exhaust manifolds to save some money.

Find a used Edelbrock performer intake manifold. To save some money you could use the Ford 2V carb with an adapter plate and still benefit from the improved flow and better fuel distribution of the intake. You can always upgrade to a 4V later if you felt the need to do so. Good Luck, Chuck

 
You might consider a cam like this. http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2464

Or a less expensive one like this. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K4400/ This is basically the Ford Marine engine cam from the 70s. If you use anything close to the specs of these cams set initial timing at 12-14 degrees advance.

Both would work well using exhaust manifolds to save some money.

Find a used Edelbrock performer intake manifold. To save some money you could use the Ford 2V carb with an adapter plate and still benefit from the improved flow and better fuel distribution of the intake. You can always upgrade to a 4V later if you felt the need to do so. Good Luck, Chuck
Thanks for the cam suggestion. The stock manifolds are cracked and warped so I'm gonna have to get new ones which aren't that much cheaper than headers, unless I can find some good used ones. I'll have to look into a carb adapter plate. Is there a way to convert a heat activated choke to a manual choke?

 
Other than the Holley kit for a Holley carb most the kits I've seen are "universal" kits. In this case universal means it doesn't work well universally. They bind, bend, and break. An electric conversion may be a better option. Count on adjusting it a bit with seasonal temperature changes. You might find a factory choke setup from a early to late 60s V-8 Ford pickup truck but it will take some looking to find it. Chuck

 
The autolite 4100 is a good carb, especially for this application. They have annular venturi boosters that enhance low to mid-range torque. The only cars (that I can remember) that came with a 4100 with a manual choke were those powered by HiPo 289s. If you find one of those sell it and pay for the rebuild and another carb with the proceeds. Many other FoMoCo cars from 1957 through 1969 had 4100s but all had "automatic" chokes. Many F series truck used 4100s but I'm at a loss to tell you which ones, if any, had 4100s with manual chokes. Many trucks used 2100s with manual choke and it is likely that the manual choke from a 2100 can be directly swapped to a 4100. I wish I could be more specific but, I just don't have the data. The listing attached shows engine size, carb type, and year. It may help. Hopefully an F series specialist will jump in to help. Chuck

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kford.htm

 
Thanks Chuck for all of you responses. What would a good cfm rating be if I come across a used holley? 600cfm?

 
Thanks Chuck for all of you responses. What would a good cfm rating be if I come across a used holley? 600cfm?
A 600 would work fine. In this application, high low speed torque, even a 450 cfm such as 1848-1 would work. You may have to do some calibration to suit your needs (jets, PV, discharge nozzles, secondary spring, etc.) Chuck

 
Sorry to bring up an oldish thread but I'm looking at getting a different distributor. I believe it has a duraspark II setup. I want to convert it so I don't have to run a control module. Any suggestions?

The current distributor tag reads:

4E 30

E2TE

12127

UA

 
It does look like you have the Duraspark II.

I went from a breaker point distributor to a Duraspark II and I have found it to be very reliable. What is driving your decision to get rid of the module?

Two alternatives for distributor:

1. breaker point distributor, price $

2. after market distributor or solid state kit, price $$$,

e.g., Mallory or PerTronix

Chris

Sorry to bring up an oldish thread but I'm looking at getting a different distributor. I believe it has a duraspark II setup. I want to convert it so I don't have to run a control module. Any suggestions?

The current distributor tag reads:

4E 30

E2TE

12127

UA

 
I'm just thinking of simplifying things cause it is going in a work truck and I want make it as reliable as possible. Also was just looking for some options. What coil would you recommend running with a duraspark system?

Thanks.

 
Hi Jayson,

I used the same coil I used with my breaker point system.

I tried to keep the stock look, never used any bulky aftermarket coils. I believe I got my last coil at a local auto parts store -- I might have opted for a replacement coil that produced more secondary voltage if available -- but looked similar to original. I am certain that I have read advertisements from coil manufacturers showing all the research they performed (oh yeah Jacobs electronics), but they are usually priced higher than I wanted to spend at the time. My car runs fine so I am not hard pressed to spend dollars on an ignition coil. I guess the point I wanted to make was that you don't have to spend a lot of money on ignition components. I found my breaker point to be high maintenance (replacing condensor or points) -- could have been due to high mileage on car; but after I rebuilt it and switch to Duraspark I have never had a problem with it.

Chris

 
As far as a trigger goes, nothing is more reliable than a Duraspark II (look inside a MSD dist.). The modules are another story. The early production modules were known for quitting when hot. You could just buy a "lifetime" replacement module and keep the receipt. I've had good luck running a duraspark and just about any amplifier box. If you want to get rid of the module, and do it cheap, dig out the old points dist. and put a pertronix I or II in it (or you could just run the points). This is not something I'd recommend for high performance but, that is not what you specified. Just about any coil will work in this application or the duraspark system. I have a pertronix II for a single point OEM Ford dist. I took out because it was erratic triggering above 5750 RPM (I've seen 3 fluctuate on Ford and Chevrolet above this rpm). If you can use it, I'l take $50.00 for it and return you money if you are not happy with it. I also have a NIB pertronix flame thrower II .6 ohm coil (PN 45011) for $20.00 for use with Pertronix II or CDI. I hate stuff gathering dust in my shop. I'm getting ready to clean several engine related items out. Chuck

 
As far as a trigger goes, nothing is more reliable than a Duraspark II (look inside a MSD dist.). The modules are another story. The early production modules were known for quitting when hot. You could just buy a "lifetime" replacement module and keep the receipt. I've had good luck running a duraspark and just about any amplifier box. If you want to get rid of the module, and do it cheap, dig out the old points dist. and put a pertronix I or II in it (or you could just run the points). This is not something I'd recommend for high performance but, that is not what you specified. Just about any coil will work in this application or the duraspark system. I have a pertronix II for a single point OEM Ford dist. I took out because it was erratic triggering above 5750 RPM (I've seen 3 fluctuate on Ford and Chevrolet above this rpm). If you can use it, I'l take $50.00 for it and return you money if you are not happy with it. I also have a NIB pertronix flame thrower II .6 ohm coil (PN 45011) for $20.00 for use with Pertronix II or CDI. I hate stuff gathering dust in my shop. I'm getting ready to clean several engine related items out. Chuck
What's an amplifier, an example would be appreciated? What would the most durable set up with the duraspark?

Thanks guys for the info I am clueless about this duraspark system.

 
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