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I'M HOME FROM YET ANOTHER DEPLOYMENT


Guest BigPinoyHunk
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Guest BigPinoyHunk

i am home yet from another deployment and i didn't waste any time to work on the car. i came home on the 6th of february and i it only took me 12 days to get the mustang back on the drag strip.

 

2 weeks before leaving, i ordered myself some CALVERT mono leaf springs, CALVERT traction bars, new WAVETRAC 35 spline nodular case differential with 3.70 gears, 35 spline MOSER AXLES, and a MSD 6AL2 ignition module. i also was able to get rid of the 1330 to 1350 conversion u joint so now i have an all 1350 set up for u joints.

 

one of the members here got lucky and pounced on my 3.50 nodular case posi 3rd member with the axles for a cheap price shipped (tracy). now i just gotta get rid of the slapper bars.

 

i don't have many videos cuz my video man was too busy hitting on too many girls at the track. but here is a time slip:

 

Marias123ETrunslip.jpg

 

i was launching the car at first at 4200rpms and i was getting some wheel spin. i readjusted the caltrac's to zero preload and down the pressure in the tires and i improved the ET. i also dropped the launch rpm to 3800rpms and it improved the 60 foot slightly.

 

i had to keep getting use to that my line lock and my 2 step rpm rev limter is wired together so its hard to remember to let go of the button on launch. there was times when i launched the car and my finger was still on the botton so i was dragging my front brakes and my rpms was limited to 3800-4200rpms. its going to need to be a clutch and right thumb coordination.


a pic with maria on the trailer still and some friends cars. i let my buddy use my drag radial street tires on his 08 foose mustang.

426311_2678880178840_1461345407_31959252_883232714_n.jpg.ff9397cad3764ea1811e3609360707a3.jpg

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That's cool, glad to have you back. Is there anyway to get a clutch switch and connect the 2-step to that? That's what a friend of mine did to his integra but it had a clutch safety switch.

Jayson

504x177https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36319488731_8f2a376549_z.jpg[/img]

73 Mach 1 Mustang

89 Dodge Shadow ES

94 Jeep Wrangler

 

 

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Hey Olie, glad to hear you got your car back together already!

 

Thanks again for your service!

1972 H-code Mach1

2010 GT Premium

2015 Hyundai Sonata Sport 2.0T

1995 F150- The "home depot" machine

2012 Harley Davidson Road Glide Ultra

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Welcome Home! Have fun on the strip and stay safe!

 

Doc

Doc

Project started 8-7-10

Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system

Current "mini-project": interior upgrade :-/

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=76]Doc's Garage[/button][button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-mustang-convertible-restoration-and-modification]Doc's Wiki[/button]

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Welcome back and thanks for serving. Sounds like you wasted no time in getting the Mach going.

Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony
Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06

20180127_082009.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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Guest BigPinoyHunk

it seems as if i fixed just about all the mechanical things that can break, however i for some reason have a super tilted reclined OEM seat.

 

with all those 3800-4200 rpm launches and my body getting thrown back fast with my 1.7 60ft times, i have broken my OEM seat. the brackets seem to be in tact but something with the seat is bent and won't let me fold it forward but it'll slide back and fourth.

 

time to do the seat part of the restoration of the interior a tad early. anybody have a recommendation for aftermarket seats for our stangs?

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it seems as if i fixed just about all the mechanical things that can break, however i for some reason have a super tilted reclined OEM seat.

 

with all those 3800-4200 rpm launches and my body getting thrown back fast with my 1.7 60ft times, i have broken my OEM seat. the brackets seem to be in tact but something with the seat is bent and won't let me fold it forward but it'll slide back and fourth.

 

time to do the seat part of the restoration of the interior a tad early. anybody have a recommendation for aftermarket seats for our stangs?

 

 

 

 

Those are some nice times that car is running, its funny I have the same exact drivers seat. Leans back, wont fold forward. Definetely broke from abuse.

I hope to start my seat restoration soon.

 

mustangnight010.jpg

1972 Mustang Convertible 351C 4V

1966 Ford Galaxie 7 litre-4speed

 

Jorge

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Welcome back Olie.

 

We use an industrial type micro switch mounted to the clutch pedal for the 2 step. As soon as the pedal comes off the floor it allows full rpm.

 

As for the seat backs, it is likely the frame cracked and failed at the rear corner where the bumpers contact each other. Mine did that and I repaired it by removing the sear bottom, cover and foam. There is a sheet metal piece at the back of the frame that cracked. The original metal needed to be put back in place and welded. I cut a piece of sheet metal and formed it to double the cracked area and welded it in place. It's been holding up for several years.

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Guest BigPinoyHunk

Welcome back Olie.

 

We use an industrial type micro switch mounted to the clutch pedal for the 2 step. As soon as the pedal comes off the floor it allows full rpm.

 

As for the seat backs, it is likely the frame cracked and failed at the rear corner where the bumpers contact each other. Mine did that and I repaired it by removing the sear bottom, cover and foam. There is a sheet metal piece at the back of the frame that cracked. The original metal needed to be put back in place and welded. I cut a piece of sheet metal and formed it to double the cracked area and welded it in place. It's been holding up for several years.

 

i keep on hearing people doing a safety switch or something kind of switch on the clutch pedal but i cannot invision on how you would wire it or position it. need help here.

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I wish I had pictures to help in describing it. You would take the wires that now run to your current 2 step switch and run them to a switch mounted either on the clutch pedal or the floor under the clutch pedal. When the clutch pedal moves from the floor on launch the 2 step goes to the higher RPM value. Just like you are doing with the current switch. The switch needs to be a good sturdy momentary contact switch, we are using a micro switch. http://www.mcmaster.com/#large-object-limit-switches/=gdqnfb

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Guest BigPinoyHunk

Welcome back & nice slip time!

 

i'm going to get real drag shocks from calvert and try out better tire pressure and i am hoping for a 12 flat or better with this mild 466. then strap on another 150hp/tq next month and hopefully see the 10's without the NOS.

 

i built the stroker motor to handle a 150hp shot of nos. maybe see a 9.99 pass? :D:D:D

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