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Seat belt update 72 Mustang


Graham Man
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Anybody swap out their front seat belts for something newer? I would like to stop attaching my shoulder belt every time I take my 72 for a ride. I was thinking something newer might just bolt in and work like the newer three point system, if I could find the right swap? I would like them to just bolt in so I can change it back.

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I went to a lot of trouble to keep my old buckles (strict Australian regulations in Victoria require that when replacing outdated seat belts, that you replace with "modern standards" equivalent buckles. I did not want to do this and eventually found a loophole where I sent my old belts/buckles to an aviation seat belt manufacturer (5,000km away!), who replaced the belting on my original buckles and also stitched in the australian certification label. So if I ever get asked, my response is: sorry, all that was on the car when I bought it. Since the car had a roadworthy and is now fully registered, how can they argue with my "selective ignorance".)...

 

It's all part of the original look and feel. But I do understand what you're saying also. It's a pain every time it unclips if I don't have the shoulder belt tight enough. Is there a trick to that or am I missing a clip or something... cheers to all.

 

Anybody swap out their front seat belts for something newer? I would like to stop attaching my shoulder belt every time I take my 72 for a ride. I was thinking something newer might just bolt in and work like the newer three point system, if I could find the right swap? I would like them to just bolt in so I can change it back.

 

 

Image3.png

Jim

 

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As Jim mentions above, Australian regulations specify "Australian Standards" belts. My car was registered for the fist time in Australia about two years ago and I needed an engineer's report on the car for it to be allowed to be registered. The engineer informed me that I needed new belts so I opted for a three-point retractable setup as per the pictures below.

 

The actual angle between the top and bottom mounting points is about 15° on a fastback, and it can be seen in the second picture that the retractor mechanism is mounted at an angle - this is so the belt will extend from the mechanism without rubbing occurring on the belt edges. A standard 0° retractor mechanism shouldn't be used as it can't be tilted to allow the belt to come out at an angle. A 9° biased retractor mechanism is what I used because when the belt is being extended and in use the belt actually pulls forward by about 5° on the roof-mounted drop-belt (so the 15° angle drops back to about 10° if that makes sense).

 

The setup works as well as any seatbelts in a modern car - and although the belts I bought are Australian made there is bound to be a range of US equivalents out there for sale.

 

seatbelt11.jpg

 

seatbelt9.jpg

 

seatbelt13.jpg

 

I also had to put 3 point belts in the back so I got a set of parcel tray retractable seat belts for there too. It doesn't look as neat as the standard belts but it's certainly a safer option for the back seat passengers.

 

seatbelt1.jpg

 

seatbelt5.jpg

 

seatbelt6.jpg

 

seatbelt7.jpg

 

seatbelt12.jpg

 

seatbelt1.jpg

 

seatbelt2.jpg

Brett

phonestang2.jpg

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It's all part of the original look and feel. But I do understand what you're saying also. It's a pain every time it unclips if I don't have the shoulder belt tight enough. Is there a trick to that or am I missing a clip or something... cheers to all.

 

 

There is a plastic grommet that keeps that from happening.

My passenger shoulder belt has one but the driver's side is worn

off. Have been trying to find a substitute, what we call a

MacGyver fix :cool: The little piece of plastic really snaps on tight and prevents any slipping. First picture is driver's side that slips.

 

mike

 

HPIM2900.thumb.JPG.50891b146392a5f901a74109ca78707f.JPG

HPIM2896.thumb.JPG.f746de48d2995d6cfb224fd2fb89b5ab.JPG

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  • 1 year later...

This is sort of a bump, but really a note to all on a very strong recommendation. If your shoulder belt rides too high and rubs against your neck, here's a solution. I had the same problem with my original seat belts and it only became more of a pain when I swapped out to an aftermarket model when the belts were fresh. Anyway, using this post I ordered seat belt drop links from the Australian Hemi-Performance site below. I just installed them and I'm incredibly pleased with the results. They cost $100 US for two of them but to me it's well worth it. These are black by the way, the pics on the website make them look grayish. Once again, I highly recommend.

 

http://www.hemiperformance.com.au/store2/p_2232_Seat-Belt-Drop-Link

IMG_20131026_113123.thumb.jpg.97aeadc1d3a6d5b78f252a3488a63535.jpg

-Former 70 & 72 Mustang Owner.

-69 Torino GT, Formal Roof, 351W, Edelbrock 600 cfm, Edelbrock 351W Performer RPM intake, headers, AOD trans, dual flowmasters w/H pipe, Pertronix II Billet, 3.5 TRACLOC g/r, 15" Magnum 500s, 100A alt, aluminum radiator, electric fan, Pro-car seats, mini-starter...owned since Dec 13.

-70 Mach 1, 351W, Edelbrock E-Street EFI, VHX instrument cluster, Hooker headers, dual flowmasters, Pertronix II, 15" Magnum 500s, 150A alt, aluminum radiator, dual electric fans, Pro-car seats, mini-starter

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  • 2 years later...

Hi Flatback72

 

I know its been a while since you posted this item regarding seltbelts but do you know the part numbers of the belts you used for the front. Being a kiwi we get the same belt suppliers (APV) as you. They can be easy sourced at Supercheap autos..Many thanks

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Hi Flatback72

 

I know its been a while since you posted this item regarding seltbelts but do you know the part numbers of the belts you used for the front. Being a kiwi we get the same belt suppliers (APV) as you. They can be easy sourced at Supercheap autos..Many thanks

 

Hi jimmypistol

 

My front belts are Hemco brand, their factory is in Ballarat, VIC.

 

http://www.hemco.com.au/seatbelt-division/

 

So not APV brand, but Supacheap may be able to do a special order for you perhaps?

 

Front seat belts are item number 1790001SP 99/90° (9 degree) Inertia L/S with 200mm Drop Link and item number 1765333 for the 300mm Stalks. You would need left and right hand belts of course.

 

This was seven or so years ago that I bought them, so I don't know if the part numbers are still active at Hemco.

 

Cheers

Brett

Brett

phonestang2.jpg

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On the shoulder belt coming undone from the buckle I can shed some light.

There was a factory recall in 1971 that involved several Ford models. I had a new 71 Maverick at the time. When I took the car in they simply put O-rings around the headed stud to prevent it coming off as easy. They had an inside diameter that fit the small diameter of the stud on the shoulder belt and you just stretched them to put on.

Hope this solves your issue it worked back then.

Those are some neat looking solutions to new belts and are much safer I am sure.

I think Ford first put belts in 1956 but not many sold. The first car I had with them was a 59 Ford. They did not buckle the belt slipped in between the buckle and when you pulled on it they would tighten. I would think that they would pinch the belt into on a hard crash. No real standards early on.

One of the few Inch bolts on a BMW use to be the seat belt anchors. I think 7/16-24 threads. They might have changed now. I was told all the testing had been done with that size and they just did not change.

David


I went out to the mighty web and found something on the recall for the shoulder harness. They said it did not affect the Maverick but I know they recalled my 71.

 

Oren09/Wikipedia

 

 

 

 

 

Slide 5 of 12

 

 

 

7. Ford (1972)

 

Vehicles affected: 4.1 million

 

Issue: Connecting part in seat belt breaking from wear

 

Components affected: seat belt webbing

 

In 1972, Ford Motor Co. F, -0.41% had to recall more than four million vehicles to fix a small component: a grommet that was part of the seat belt. This could break with repeated usage, making it impossible for the driver or passenger to lock in the shoulder harness. Each grommet cost only a few cents to make, according to a June 1972 Associated Press article. The recall affected most cars produced by Ford for its U.S. lines for the 1970 and 1971 model years, excluding only its Maverick and convertible models. The problem was easily corrected by replacing the original piece with another made of neoprene.

Here is the link to the biggest re-calls ever.

http://www.marketwatch.com/story/the-10-biggest-car-recalls-of-all-time-2013-02-16

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 1 year later...

 

It's all part of the original look and feel. But I do understand what you're saying also. It's a pain every time it unclips if I don't have the shoulder belt tight enough. Is there a trick to that or am I missing a clip or something... cheers to all.

 

 

There is a plastic grommet that keeps that from happening.

My passenger shoulder belt has one but the driver's side is worn

off.  Have been trying to find a substitute, what we call a

MacGyver fix :cool:  The little piece of plastic really snaps on tight and prevents any slipping.  First picture is driver's side that slips.

 

mike

 

 

 

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David, thanks for jogging my memory. That was a good post you did about a year ago explaining  how the plastic collar was cast and why they were coming apart. The Ford part # for the "O' rings is D1AZ-6560116-A. They show up on E-Bay occasionally. I keep some parts notes and I believe you gave the dimensions as .450" OD, .218" ID and rubber dia. of .100" in case anyone wanted to try their luck at the hardware store. My illustration shows the original Ford packaging.

IMG_0641.JPG.81a316729e0895bb799ad446b5ef3f15.JPG

Steve

 

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!

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David, thanks for jogging my memory. That was a good post you did about a year ago explaining  how the plastic collar was cast and why they were coming apart. The Ford part # for the "O' rings is D1AZ-6560116-A. They show up on E-Bay occasionally. I keep some parts notes and I believe you gave the dimensions as .450" OD, .218" ID and rubber dia. of .100" in case anyone wanted to try their luck at the hardware store. My illustration shows the original Ford packaging.

That would be them and yes you can get at any hardware or auto parts store that will work.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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