Zero to sixty in just under an hour

Or at least it seemed that way. I'm trying to get some numbers together so I can compare them before and after the power project. Actually, the 0 - 60 times were 18.91 seconds, 18.57 seconds, and 18.77 seconds.

Does anyone have numbers that I can use to compare with my 100% stock 351C 2V? Do those times seem about right for my engine, with no improvements except for new points and plugs and oil?

An old friend is coming for Thanksgiving, and I want to take him for a spin in the convertible, so I'm holding off on pulling the heads and such until after his visit.

Doc

Or at least it seemed that way. I'm trying to get some numbers together so I can compare them before and after the power project. Actually, the 0 - 60 times were 18.91 seconds, 18.57 seconds, and 18.77 seconds.

Does anyone have numbers that I can use to compare with my 100% stock 351C 2V? Do those times seem about right for my engine, with no improvements except for new points and plugs and oil?

An old friend is coming for Thanksgiving, and I want to take him for a spin in the convertible, so I'm holding off on pulling the heads and such until after his visit.

Doc

Click to expand...

Should be about 10 seconds faster.

Or at least it seemed that way. I'm trying to get some numbers together so I can compare them before and after the power project. Actually, the 0 - 60 times were 18.91 seconds, 18.57 seconds, and 18.77 seconds.

Does anyone have numbers that I can use to compare with my 100% stock 351C 2V? Do those times seem about right for my engine, with no improvements except for new points and plugs and oil?

An old friend is coming for Thanksgiving, and I want to take him for a spin in the convertible, so I'm holding off on pulling the heads and such until after his visit.

Doc

Click to expand...

Maybe this will help.

http://www.theautochannel.com/vehicles/muscle/mustang/f73mcont.frame

Or at least it seemed that way. I'm trying to get some numbers together so I can compare them before and after the power project. Actually, the 0 - 60 times were 18.91 seconds, 18.57 seconds, and 18.77 seconds.

Does anyone have numbers that I can use to compare with my 100% stock 351C 2V? Do those times seem about right for my engine, with no improvements except for new points and plugs and oil?

An old friend is coming for Thanksgiving, and I want to take him for a spin in the convertible, so I'm holding off on pulling the heads and such until after his visit.

Doc

Click to expand...

Sounds like a bad 1/4 mile time, not 0-60. I think a prius will beat you.

Those numbers are abysmal! My Mach 1 in all her lackoffunctionalbrakesandbadlytunedcarburetor puts 0-60 in well... pretty quick! Maybe I should actually get some times for you. But I want to say it is ~8 seconds or less.

Click to expand...

Oh sure... just rub it in.

Your 0-60 times mean problems.

is it hesitating or back firing at all, does it smell super rich when you stomp on it.

does it hesitant then start going or goes then hesitant then goes.

any black coming out the tail pipes.

did you do a compression check? what numbers did you get?

is the trans slipping?

is the EGR, PCV, clogged?

Clogged exhaust?

What vacuum reading are you getting off the engine.

something is holding back that motor a lot.

Sorry was just playin :angel:

Doc,

My first thought was that your speedometer might be off, especially considering your "speedometer bounce" issue. I would normally expect to see 0- 60 times for your application in the 8 - 10 second range.

I am also curious as to what was your procedure for making the determination for that time. Specifically, how did you time it?

BT

Something is definitely going on. May try having someone follow you and do it again and watch their speedo in the process. :huh:

Release the emergency brake and try again

These were my time when I was at Martin,Mi

60"et 2.013

1/8thet [email protected]

1000ft et [email protected]

1/4 [email protected]

Running a 351C 4 bbl heads, flat top pistons, 588 lift cam and roller rockers. I changed to a C6 trans. FMX would not hold up.

When I was running stock engine my 0-60 time was just over9 sec.

Coilwire

Thanks, everyone.

I used the only method we have available around here - I bought a stopwatch at WalMart and found a straight stretch of unused (mostly) road and stopped, floored it, and simultaneously starting the timer. I stopped it when the speedo arm touched the line at 60mph (yes, I KNOW that this is accuracy overkill, but I wanted to ensure that my times were EXACT).

I wouldn't even talk about the numbers if they hadn't been so darn close to each other. Statistics and standard deviations are not my forte, but I'm thinking that, like 72HCODE implied, the numbers show that the engine is a dog, with a capital "d". No smoke, compression within 10% or so, emergency brake off , wieird, huh?

More to come... and thanks again for both the sound advice, and the humor.

Doc

well something is dragging your car down, can you rotate the rear wheels with the trans in neutral easy?

when you say the compression is within 10% whats the lowest reading like 100psi?

if your going to change the exhaust maybe cut the muffler and see if the car picks up, that would mean the exhuast is clogged up. you could tell with a vac gauge also.

Even when my engine was totally worn out i had a major misfire and i got readings under 120 psi with my valves totally worn out i was getting 0-60 under 10 seconds. i was able to churp the tires a few times.

maybe your FMX isn't kicking down gears when you stomp on it? i know my car is EXTREMELY lethargic if i put the transmission in 2nd, try droping the trans in 1st and i wouldn't try going to 60mph but kick it to say 30-40mph and see if it feels a lot faster.

is the FMX going through all 3 gears? if you stomp on it can you feel it kick down into 1st.

is 1st holding or if you stomp on it you can feel it cycle out of 1st really fast then into 2nd really fast and then into 3rd before 30mph?

did you change the vacuum modulator? is it hooked up?

if your modulator is not working it will mess up the shift point and drop you through the gears way too fast under load.

example i did something stupid about 2 years ago i was fiddling with my engine vacuum and at the time i messed up the tune and was making like 10" vac so that effected the modulator, my trans was shifting way late. so i backed off the adjustment screw on the modualtor, and forgot about it.

2 years later i got the tune around 17" vac and when i would drive it my car cycled through the gears way too fast, i would stomp on it and almost instantly i felt it going through 1,2 right into 3rd before 35mph. i went back and tighten the modualtor adjustment screw and now i was holding off 3rd into 45-50mph. i may still fiddle with it i haven't had much time on the change since i did my rear end rebuild and the driving season ended.

I want more info on what your car is doing. because if that FMX is dumping into 3rd like instantly then the engine will bog big time before 60mph.

check the kickdown rod on the trans make sure its working, check the modualtor make sure its hooked up, try putting the shifter into 1st and then try a 0-35-45mph run and see if its faster.

I think you are definitely on to something, 72HCODE. When cruising at 35mph (or 45mph or 55mph for that matter) and I stomp on it, it doesn't kick down into 2nd. It just SLOWLY speeds up. The shift from 1st to 2nd from a stop is pretty snappy, but getting it to kick down is virtually impossible.

I'll follow your instructions and see if I come up with some more info. Thanks again for the advice.

Doc

with the car off and the air cleaner removed, take a look at the linkage for the fmx kickdown its the same as the C6. first see if you have a return spring that is attached to the throttle plate to a hole in the kickdown, that makes sure that the kickdown returns to the fully up position.

next manual push on the kickdown rod and use a flashlight and try to see the transmission or get under the drivers side and you should be able to reach up to the kickdown, and try to move it up and down and make sure its moving freely all the way until it stops. make sure nothing is loose down there.

now go back up to the carb and push the butterflys open all the way and see if the kickdown actually moves, its possible your kickdown linkage is not adjusted correctly or could be missing. if it moves but you can see not enough there should be an adjustment a screw head that you turn to set the kickdown timing.

when the throttle is fully open the kick down should be 100% engaged. you can play with this a little and get it to open early just before full throttle this will set the moment on the pedal when the trans should drop a gear down.

now if you go through this and when you drive the car the kick down still doesn't drop a gear down,, you may have something bad going on with the transmission valve body.

maybe its sticking or some body screwed up a shift kit installation ,, though its an FMX so there really isn't any aftermarket support.

its possible the valve body is gummed up and in need of TLC.

the gear ratios between the C6 and FMX are basically the same its just that the FMX weights a lot more since its mostly cast steel compared to the C6 made out of aluminum.

but first double check that kick down. next i would check the modulator, when in doubt replace it,, just be aware, if you pull the modualtor the transmission will start to dump its fluid in your face, so catch it in a bucket ASAP and get that new modulator installed asap, WATCH out for the little rod that goes into the modualtor DO not loose it and make sure its seated correctly.. the best is you have a partner under the car,, you pull the modulator and he jams his finger in the hole before the entire transmission dumps its fluid, that will give you time to setup the pin in the modualor and the new seal (if its a push in or a screw in type) then you can get the new on in and replace 1-2 quarts that you lost.. plus you get to see the condition of the fluid.

worst case is the trans kick down refuses to work, and you have to dump the trans pan and look inside, best case you rebuild the valve body worst case mechanical damage and a transmission rebuild.

Do you have a GPS with a relative speed application? You might try using that for another couple runs and compare to your speedometer to see if it's the 'dragging' bit.

Beyond that, it sounds like you're definitely onto some of the drive-train issues though if your kick-down isn't working. Ain't this place great?! [/align]