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Distributor and Ignition Info Thread


bkelley
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If you want your stock tach to work with the ready to run dizzy, you will have to buy the 8920 adapter. The gray tach out put from the dizzy will go to the 8920 adapter white wire. Then the adapter red wire will run to the tach. The violet wire from the adapter will not be used. One wire on the original tach will be hot with key if I remember right, and the other came from the + of the coil. You want to hook up the adapter red wire to the wire of the tach that was originally fed to the + of the coil. that should do it. or you can send out the tach to rcc and have it converted and just run the gray output wire directly to the new tach.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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omie01.

I have a new adapter that you can have if you want it. I converted my Tach from RCCI so I don't need it, let me know.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I know that there has been a lot of comments about how tall and wide the MSD distributors are and therefore have clearance issues with the Air Cleaner fitment. In my case I am using the MSD 8580 and had to modify the air base in order for it to fit. The 8580 is 9" tall and 5 3/8" wide. What I found out is that if you use a 8578 which is a comparable one for my application but for a 351W the dimensions are reduced to 7 7/8" tall and 4 3/4" wide. The shaft diameter is .531" for both distributors but with different teeth.

 

So if you have a MSD dizzy already but want to make it smaller you can take the gear off your old one out and put it onto the 351w one and it will work. If you buy the 351w dizzy you can also buy the correct gear and just swap them out and you will be good to go.

 

Bronze gear is PN #8581

Steel gear PN# 85812

Black Cap PN #84313 (If you want to keep the stock look)

 

71mach1Lady, If that spacer doesn't work for you then you could go this route and should give you the necessary clearance that you'll need. I forgot what dizzy you were using but if I remember correctly it's just shy of 9". It should give you about an extra inch clearance so you wouldn't have to do any more tweaks on your air cleaner.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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71mach1Lady, If that spacer doesn't work for you then you could go this route and should give you the necessary clearance that you'll need. I forgot what dizzy you were using but if I remember correctly it's just shy of 9". It should give you about an extra inch clearance so you wouldn't have to do any more tweaks on your air cleaner.

 

Thanks, great information and may be worth the cost to be done with clearance issues

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/ezgallery.php?action=myimages&u=3961]My Mach[/button] [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=3961]Check out My Garage[/button]

 

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

I've been looking at all sorts of different setups over the last two months. My car has misfired since I got it, and I want to start over to a degree on the electrical/ignition side and then tune the carb for our high elevation and thin air.

 

But is this a good place to start or a waste of money? If there is something better let me know! :) I'm also excited to fix the horribly dim interior and exterior lighting this month.

 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=200987066182

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An ignition upgrade is a good starting place. The most common cause of misfire is spark plugs, so change them at the same time.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Either Duraspark conversion or a Pertronix drop in.

Personally the huge gm distributor is out of place on any Ford and there are better, factory appearing systems available.

 

Edit: checked your link and their "hei" is a small cap unit.

Easy to do this if your distributor is worn out. If yours is fine and you want to keep the stock appearance, do the pertronix.

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That is one hard to read ad!

 

I have a traditional GM style HEI that was built by Performance Distributors. The extra size is problematic, but it works well.

 

I'd have to question the ebay seller as to whether the module is the same as GM HEI modules and interchangeable, and even then I'd wonder how he could sell me something CNC machined and warranted for three years so cheaply.

 

You don't always get everything you pay for, but you very rarely get more than you pay for.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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HI,

 

I have a 73 351 C which had the original coil and points. I went with the Pertronix breakerless ignition which is easy to install and goes into the stock distributor and cap so you can't tell it is there ... it works great. I also bought the 40K volt coil from Pertronix, it is black and looks stock. I used the same set up in a 74 Z28 I used to own and never had a problem with it.

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I think it should be a mandatory first mod to get rid of the points (unless you're a purist and insist on keeping it stock... then it's your hassle as part of the game). ;) :D

 

Pertronix, Duraspark, MSD, HEI, Mallory, et al., are all good solutions. Some of them fit into a stock replacement situation better than others... but everybody's had their good luck (as well as bad luck) with any and all of these different solutions. It just depends on what you want out of the deal.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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That is one hard to read ad!

+1, I thought he must be a little shady, but he has a 100% rating.

 

.

I'd have to question the ebay seller as to whether the module is the same as GM HEI modules and interchangeable, and even then I'd wonder how he could sell me something CNC machined and warranted for three years so cheaply.

 

You don't always get everything you pay for, but you very rarely get more than you pay for.

 

My thought, too. The cheapest distributors I could find are from Rock Auto, $48 from World Power Systems (??) or $64 for a Cardone reman. And, then, I don't think the HEI module will fit into a Ford distributor, let alone the magnet wheel. So, what is it? Maybe someone on the forum has tried one.

 

I agree with others, if the distributor is in good condition, put in a Pertronx.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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if your ignition system is in good shape a HEI conversion is a complete waste of money

 

that said you are having problems, i would diagnose the problem because you can waste money on replacement parts only to cover up what the original problem was or is..

 

the car is misfiring.

 

so first inspect the ignition system for loose wires, or wires that have the insulation damaged. is everything tight for the distributor cap.

 

inspect the cap and rotor, pull the wires and pull the plugs have a look at them, is there a mechanical issue, improper gapping?

 

if you are using points inspect the switch and possibly replace the condenser as a possible problem source.

 

some people have really worn out distributors and they are using points. there is a cam on the distributor that can be worn out and cause the points to fire differently on each cylinder that can lead to misfire, an electronic conversion would not use the cam for timing and that can solve a problem, changing to HEI would solve it as well but at a much higher cost.

 

possibly replace the coil with another one to see what effect it has.

 

aftermarket ignition wires can cause all kinds of misfire/crossfire and interference problems, OEM wires are great and work well even in most racing applications.

 

you can do a ignition system tune up if you want to rule out existing parts as the problem, replace the plugs, wires, rotor, cap, points, coil with new and see if the problem is still there.(it might point to another issue)

 

check to make sure the ignition wires are neat for cross fire and the firing order is correct.

 

you might have another problem and spending money on a HEI will not fix it. a petronixs conversion works great and keeps the stock look and parts.

 

we are looking at this from a ignition problem. but you could have a valve problem or head gasket leak or a few other things.

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I've been looking at all sorts of different setups over the last two months. My car has misfired since I got it...

 

...But is this a good place to start or a waste of money?

 

- What ignition is in it now? Points, Duraspark, or ?

- Have you positively identified the source of misfire? Bad plug(s), wires, cap/rotor, weak compression, burned valve, vacuum leak... lots to choose from...

 

If it's points equipped, it's probably a good idea to change to something more modern, but not really needed.

If your misfire is related to anything but distributor related, then yes it would be a waste, IMO. Especially for diagnosing a miss, just throwing a new dizzy at it might not solve anything but lighten the weight of your wallet.

 

It would kinda be like going to the doctor for a sore back, and he recommends getting a $225 haircut first. Ain't gonna fix yer problem, but you'll look better. :D

 

All IMO, of course.

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Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs

'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...

'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater - SOLD

'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor

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I hope it wasn't your car that I peed in the gas tank last week-sorry if it was. :D

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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I don't mean to over analyze here but the statement made about points wearing and causing your timing to advance is purely false. As your points close up due to wear, the timing will actually retard. Personally I would not purchase a product in which a error such as this is made. If they really know distributors I don't think they would make this mistake... That said, I recently converted my original stock point distributor to the pertronix ignitor 1. It starts faster, idles better, no longer backfires on deceleration, and is just generally BETTER. As a matter of fact it idles so much better, I had to turn the idle speed down slightly because it was trying to diesel when shutting it off hot. I did not change plugs, wires, gaps, or anything. I have installed several of these units in marine and street distributors over the years and I'm still wondering why I waited so long to do my own.

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I agree with everyone in that this ad seems a bit off. Also that the Pertronix is the way to go. I put in an ignitor 2 like 12 years ago with a 40k volt coil and it has done nothing but run great. This is on an original 302 as well. I have since changed the plugs a few times, but not due to anything with the setup. I would say 100% go with a pertronix drop in, well worth and much cheaper than this ad.


Links for you:

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor2/default.aspx

 

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx

 

Hope this helps!

 

A word of advice, don't go spend the extra money on fancy spark plugs, I have run autolite plugs in mine for years and they work great!

1_12_09_14_10_32_45.png

 

- Nik

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Well, we've pertronix I and II recommendations and now I'm giving the III's the thumbs up.

I bought it mainly for the easy adjustable weight springs among many other things.

Image3.png

Jim

 

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The distributor in that listing are based exactly off the Bosch type electronic ignition distributor used here in Australia from 79 (XD) until the end of production of the Cleveland here in Australia. There has been a fair bit of discussion about these distributors on different forums here in Australia, with different reviews, some good, some bad, but one thing that is often agreed on with these cheaper "Bosch" type distributors is that the module seems to be main problem with them. Again same thing, some good reviews saying had no problems and been drama free, then others saying nothing but problems with them, but have replaced the module with a proper Bosch one and has been trouble free. So the main consensus is that replacing the module with a Bosch one and these distributors seem to be fine. I personally bought one of these when my Pertronix gave up the ghost, I dropped it in and it ran fine and had no problems with it at all, until I put the Pertronix kit back in my old distributor again. I ran that distributor for a while until I could get the time to do the swap again. So your main problem may be getting a proper Bosch module for it over there in the U.S. if the one in this fails, but you could order one over the net from a supplier here in Australia if needs be. Hope this helps.

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Excellent advice and info from all. I'm amazed at the depth of knowledge and willingness to help out others. I'm going to rip into it tomorrow and figure out exactly what I have and then figure out where I'll go from there. It sounds like the pertronix of some sort is the most tested and trusted way to go. More info coming soon and then I'll pick what parts exactly to go with.

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