Has spraying cleaner into your carb every worked for you?

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My Car
73 Mustang Convertible
Born an I-6, spent the teenage, 20 and 30 years as a 302, but at 40 will reach full potential as a 351C.
I am really looking for some guidance here. I cannot say I have ever cured any automotive problem by spraying anything into my carburetor. I cannot say I have ever taken a carburetor apart(for the heck of it) and found any component clogged.

I was just wondering if anyone was ever able to cure a problem with their car by spraying your favorite product into your carburetor?

What problem did it cure? Do you have a before/after photo of what it did?

What EXACTLY are we trying to get clean, expecially since we have limited access to nothing but exposed parts?

I have searched for before and after photos to see exactly what a carb cleaner spray can do to critical components, and although the sides look much nicer, and the throttle plates are shinier, that isn't really the purpose, is it?

Shouldn't I look for those tiny orifices and see if they show signs of clogging, like my bathroom or kitchen faucet?

Wouldn't I be better off putting something directly into the fuel bowl and running it through?

 
The gunk that can build up on the throttle bores, throttle plates, and the bypass slots and air bleeds can affect low-speed driveability and idling. Cleaning with spray can help. I've seen carburetors gummed up inside after they set for too long and dry up. You can spray some carburetor cleaner into the bowl vents, if you're careful and think there might be some gunk in the bowls. Don't over do it, or you can melt some things in there, like the diaphragms and valve for the accelerator pump. Most of the plugging problems I've seen are from dirty fuel and no fuel filter.

 
YES! Every time i've done that it successfully causes me to remove the carb & rebuild it.
This is EXACTLY what I am talking about.



I've seen carburetors gummed up inside after they set for too long and dry up.
Agree with ones that have sat...In fact, I have one that has been sitting for about 12 months now. Can't wait to take it apart.

 
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Wolverine,

You can see where the gas enters the intake and what you are removing for the most part is varnish. Like most things people tend to over do. If you spray a whole can, get ready to rebuild your carb. If you stall the engine while spraying, get ready to rebuild your carb.

If you use the type you add to a full tank of gas you can realize how little it takes to get the job done. But some people expect immeadiate gratification QUICKLY!! :p

 
Wolverine,

You can see where the gas enters the intake and what you are removing for the most part is varnish.
By the way, I am not joking in regards to my lack of knowledge here....and I am trying to be short, but not disrespectful...

But as far as I can tell, there are 4 areas of concern regarding fuel flow(based on my cursory reading of this: http://c807991.r91.cf2.rackcdn.com/autolite_4100_manual.pdf):

1. In Fuel Bowl: Main Jet

2. In Housing(I think): Idle Air Jets

3. In Housing: Idle Fuel Mixture Screw

4. In Air Horn: Venturi

Of these, only the VENTURI can be touched by the spray. Seems kind of a waste to try to clean the Venturi because it appears to be the least vulnerable.

And, because I can't see the bottom, how am I supposed to KNOW that I have them clean?

Like most things people tend to over do. If you spray a whole can, get ready to rebuild your carb. If you stall the engine while spraying, get ready to rebuild your carb.
Why do they sell me a whole can if I only need 1/2? As a general rule, if the car doesn't stall out at least once, I figure I wasn't aggressive enough.

I AM NOT KIDDING...I am not disagreeing with you, I am just telling you how little I know.

If you use the type you add to a full tank of gas you can realize how little it takes to get the job done. But some people expect immediate gratification QUICKLY!!
When I have to spend $4 a quart for oil, and $10 for an air filter, do you know what I want to do to the store manager for forcing the sales clerk to say, "Sir, do you have a nice oil funnel? We are having a special today, only $3.99 if you purchase 6 quarts of oil." Then I respond politely, "No thank you. I have a nice funnel" and then I get the "We are also having a 2 for 1 special on our engine fuel cleaner. Only $4.99, it is really a great deal." Then I respond politely again, "No Thank You," and she says, "You don't want a dirty engine or poor gas mileage, do you sir." In the meantime, my life is flashing before my eyes(just like this post). (I would put a smiley being strangled here if they had one).

The main point is, over the course of my 500k miles of driving, I have never been able to cure an automotive issue with carb cleaner. I also refuse to put ANYTHING in my gas tank besides gasoline. If gas is so bad, I would really like someone to show me carburetor that is used daily that has something in need of carb cleaner from a can. If gas is so bad, I think we would see it on our valves when we rebuild our motors. If particles get into the carburetor, that is a filter issue.

Just my opinion...love you guys.

 
While fuel conditioners can help to clean the fuel system, the best reason to use them is for eliminating water (condensation) from the fuel tank and for conditioning the fuel so it doesn't turn to varnish in the tank, fuel lines, or carburetor. Most decent gasolines have some type of detergent in them, but not much in the way of fuel conditioners, or a way to get rid of the condensation. Keeping the tank full also helps to reduce condensation because of the reduced air volume in the tank. Ask a pilot why they fuel up when they return from a trip and why they drain a little fuel out of the tank during pre-flight. When water gets into a carburetor it tends to corrode things.

 
Is there still a question in there somewhere?
Yep...found one:

And, because I can't see the bottom, how am I supposed to KNOW that I have them clean?

I need to relax a little.

 
The problem with spraying carb cleaner all over and in your carb and then running it is that all that crap that you just loosened up, is now going to be moved through the internal parts of the carb and also through your engine. Which then usually results in the need for a rebuild to get the stuff out of the internal ports.

If you want to douse your carb with cleaner, I would recomend pulling it off the car first, spraying it liberally upside down so the gunk drains out, let it dry, do it again then out it back on. However, you still run the risk of lodging a little piece of something in some small port somewhere and clogging it up. Remember this is the lungs of your engine, you want them clean!

The best way, is to take it apart, soak it in carb clean, scrub it with a wire brush, make sure to make all the valleys, ports and faces shinny and clean, then spray it with carb clean, then put some glasses on and blow it out with compressed air thoroughly and re assemble with new gaskets.

Once a carb is rebuilt, then keeping up your fuel system will illiminate the accumaltion of any gunk. I do this by regular fuel filter changes, only using Super from Chevron or 76 and using a fuel cleaner regularly. I don't ever spray cleaner down the carb unless it's a car that is broke down, I am going to be rebuilding it, or I am checking for intake leaks.

Just keep in mind that you are forcing that junk that has built up, down through your valves and into yout engine.

The most important thing here is to be careful what you put in your tank and down your carb. Secondly, not all carb cleaners are the same and not all fuel additives are the same. Most fuel additives have some of octane boost in them. Good right? More octane = more go fast?

The other problem is octane boosters will taint your plugs, you can always tell an engine has had some sort octane additive by tan orange or red chalky color in them. This is not good. Many plugs loose most of their potency once they are compromised.

You have heard me say it before, so I apologize for my redundancy, but this is why I only use Redline SI-1 Complete Fuel System cleaner in my engines.

You can dump a little shot every tank full or so, or dump the whole thing in, the results are only positive, no tainting of plugs. Also no octane boost, but if you want that, you'd be better off buying 5 gal of race gas and putting a little in here and there. This also works as a good wake up for your engine and air freshner for the rest of us that love the smell of racegas in the morning!

 
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I have used carb cleaner many times, and never had to rebuild a carb due its use. I've seen a lot of varnishy build up in old carbs too...I never thought that I was trying to "fix" anything, I only thought it was a maintenance act to perform. Maybe it is only in my head, but the cars seem to have bit better throttle responce after I have done it...

The quality of fuel just isn't the same as it was 10 years ago, or more. Plus with the recent changes in mixtures, I have seen a lot more internal rubber parts fail, even after using "good" gas... Rebuild kits are still fairly inexpensive for a Holley, so I'll keep after them..

 
The problem with spraying carb cleaner ...

The best way, is to take it apart, soak it in carb clean, scrub it with a wire brush, make sure to make all the valleys, ports and faces shinny and clean, then spray it with carb clean, then put some glasses on and blow it out with compressed air thoroughly and re assemble with new gaskets.
Now, everything you said he makes perfect sense...

And, I think the bottom line is NO ONE has ever cured a bad running motor by spraying carb cleaner into their carb.

I have a Holley 1850 (650CFM) sitting on my 302 for over a year. I look forward to taking it apart and seeing what is gummed up.

For what it is worth, my HONDA engine engineer says Chevron is used for their EPA and performance tests, but is not recommended for every day usage because they find it a little corrosive(especially for fuel injection). Once a month is adequate for taking advantage of their cleaning additive.

 
The problem with spraying carb cleaner ...

The best way, is to take it apart, soak it in carb clean, scrub it with a wire brush, make sure to make all the valleys, ports and faces shinny and clean, then spray it with carb clean, then put some glasses on and blow it out with compressed air thoroughly and re assemble with new gaskets.
Now, everything you said he makes perfect sense...

And, I think the bottom line is NO ONE has ever cured a bad running motor by spraying carb cleaner into their carb.

I have a Holley 1850 (650CFM) sitting on my 302 for over a year. I look forward to taking it apart and seeing what is gummed up.

For what it is worth, my HONDA engine engineer says Chevron is used for their EPA and performance tests, but is not recommended for every day usage because they find it a little corrosive(especially for fuel injection). Once a month is adequate for taking advantage of their cleaning additive.
I wouldn't say no one, cuz it can help, especially with a sticky throttle linkage. But I'd say that it's not a cure, just a little band aid.

Yah, I hear you about corrosiveness, but again, that's what the additives combat. I just have had good luck with Chevron and 76. I think I have only had one bad gas episode with them. BP/Mobile probably 3 or 4, Circle k 2-3. I run Safeway or Costca gas in my truck(96F150) on and off and even after one tank full I can tell the difference in how it runs and it's a very good running truck. So I can only imagine if it was something less maintained.

Let me know when your ready rebuild your 1850, I can walk you through it, it's a piece of cake. That's a 600cfm btw..Or better yet, drive it up here and I'll walk you though it in person with a glass of scotch in hand!:D

 
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The only good use I've found for carb cleaner is for huffing or for cleaning the carb housing after rebuilding it.

 
I wouldn't say no one, cuz it can help, especially with a sticky throttle linkage.
For the record, I have never had a sticky throttle linkage...on my Mustang.

I just have had good luck with Chevron and 76.
This holley I am going to rebuild has seen probably 15000 gallons of Arco, and sitting dry for a year. I can't wait to take it apart.

Let me know when your ready rebuild your 1850, I can walk you through it, it's a piece of cake. That's a 600cfm btw..Or better yet, drive it up here and I'll walk you though it in person with a glass of scotch in hand!:D
I'll drive it up there WITH the carburetor on it, then we can swap it at your house for the drive back for a REAL LIFE COMPARISON.

Do you like WalScotch? I here it isn't bad after the first bottle.

 
I wouldn't say no one, cuz it can help, especially with a sticky throttle linkage.
For the record, I have never had a sticky throttle linkage...on my Mustang.

I just have had good luck with Chevron and 76.
This holley I am going to rebuild has seen probably 15000 gallons of Arco, and sitting dry for a year. I can't wait to take it apart.

Let me know when your ready rebuild your 1850, I can walk you through it, it's a piece of cake. That's a 600cfm btw..Or better yet, drive it up here and I'll walk you though it in person with a glass of scotch in hand!:D
I'll drive it up there WITH the carburetor on it, then we can swap it at your house for the drive back for a REAL LIFE COMPARISON.

Sounds like a plan!!

Do you like WalScotch? I here it isn't bad after the first bottle.
Yah, I heard the same thing about terpentine!!

 
I also refuse to put ANYTHING in my gas tank besides gasoline.
I'm a firm beliver in adding fuel stabizer to the gas tank if the vehicle is going to be sitting over the winter or a long period of time. I noticed a big difference when I started using it in my boat. Much smoother running engine in the spring. I use it in my lawnmower gas cans too.

 
I have never been a big fan of "Magic" in a can. I can say however that while I have always been skeptical, Sea Foam has worked well for me in some circumstances, specifically I bought a motorcycle once that had set for an extended period, and one of the carbs was not performing, and adding Sea Foam to the tank for a couple of tanks straightened it out. I knew that I might have to remove and clean the carbs anyway, so I figured what the .... and it worked.

 
reviving this thread to tell a story

In days of old when the world was young I was instructed that pistons in older engines would have heavy carbon build up upon the tops and that it was necessary to remove said build up to keep the engine running properly. With the car running and the throttle in hand my instructor began to pour into the carburetor a coca cola bottle full of water. As the engine began to sputter he slowed his pour and blipped the throttle repeatedly to keep the engine running until it smoothed back out. He then repeated his action again until the bottle was empty. He proudly announced afterwards that the water turns to steam and lifts the carbon off the piston tops and out it goes thru the exhaust.

so my point is there have been snake oil salesmen since before there was snake oil.

Carb cleaner in a few short bursts help to avoid visible varnish build up in the venturi and along the throttle plates, however with good gas this build up never seems to amount to anything. In small doses it might be mildly beneficial at best. In large doses is screws things up.

Gas formulations have not changed for the better, but gas quality most definitely has. 1970's gas may have been high octane, but station to station cleanliness and consistency wasn't what we are used to in the last 20+ years.

BTW the engine in question was a 250 CID inline 6 that survived abuse that would be considered torture testing, ran on the same set of points for 30,000 miles or more never had a new cap wires or coil or carb rebuild while we owned it during that time. It burned a little oil, it broke motor mounts, it put the fan thru the radiator and glowed red hot on the drive home and was cooled with a garden hose til it would stop without dieseling, and it still ran and ran as well as ever it finally trashed the C-4 transmission, but it always started and ran well for the 3 years we had it thru 2 teenagers, abuse, and misuse. The Maverick it inhabited was sold battle scars and all. The lesson I learned was not understood till much later. Not every component is as finicky as people would have you believe, sometimes the best care is leaving it the hell alone and just driving it.

 
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