Rear shock????????

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Tnfastbk

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My car has staggered rear shocks and a set of Caltracs installed. My question is, If the rear shocks are to stiff can the contribute to wheel hop? Mine has terrible hop on launch and have to finally let off to settle it down. I mean it even carries over into second gear and thats when I decided to ease up some.

 
It's a nice problem to have once you get it solved!

Too stiff will for sure get them hoppin'. You definetly want to have some travel in the back to allow the weight to transfer. Otherwise, it stops in the middle of the car instead of over the diff.

Your tire pressure will have an affect on that as well. Where are you at there? For hard launches, you probably want to be in the 25-30psi range. Not the best for daily driving, but good for traction.

You might try that first since it's easy and see what if it helps.

 
Stiff shocks are likely not contributing to wheel hop.

Weak rear springs or bad bushings

Wheel hop in a leaf spring car comes from the spring flexing as the axle tries to turn. the front half of the spring takes on an "s" shape momentarily then the spring strength pops the rear axle back into place causing the hop, the continued torque then repeats the process very quickly.

Check the front bushings on your springs, verify that the leaf spring perches are tight and if the springs are good and strong, try to add some -2degree shims to change the pinion angle a bit for better hook up.

What rear end ratio are you running and what tires?

 
Wheel hop is common in all the 60's and 70's Fords.

New wide sticky tires probably make it worse.

Traction bars are a cure

 
Traction bars don't fix the problem, what they do is make the spring behave as if it were shorter.

Frame connectors are always a good thing, but they won't fix wheel hop-they will however minimize some of the chassis damage it can cause.

The rear leaf spring rates are too low for the power level and the traction of the tires you have. It is about balancing the combo If you go to 200# 5 leaf springs, you can cut the bottom leaf behind the axle plate and get a decent ride and much better traction than 4 leaf 165 pound rate springs.

 
Stiff shocks are likely not contributing to wheel hop.

Weak rear springs or bad bushings

Wheel hop in a leaf spring car comes from the spring flexing as the axle tries to turn. the front half of the spring takes on an "s" shape momentarily then the spring strength pops the rear axle back into place causing the hop, the continued torque then repeats the process very quickly.

Check the front bushings on your springs, verify that the leaf spring perches are tight and if the springs are good and strong, try to add some -2degree shims to change the pinion angle a bit for better hook up.

What rear end ratio are you running and what tires?
All new everything and is tight. 3.90 ratio with 18's



Wheel hop is common in all the 60's and 70's Fords.

New wide sticky tires probably make it worse.

Traction bars are a cure
Hello, CalTracs installed

http://calvertracing.com/caltracs.php

 
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You can try clamping the front leaves together to test the weak spring theory. Calvert gives recommendations on shocks for their product to work as intended. The 18 inch wheels with thin sidewalls don't absorb any load when the suspension hits which probably doesn't help. Have you talked to Calvert?

 
How much preload do you have on the caltracs? Many run no preload on the streetfor ride quality and use IIRC 1 turn of preload on the track. Preload needs to be set with the driver in the car. How tight are the front shocks?

 
My car has staggered rear shocks and a set of Caltracs installed. My question is, If the rear shocks are to stiff can the contribute to wheel hop? Mine has terrible hop on launch and have to finally let off to settle it down. I mean it even carries over into second gear and thats when I decided to ease up some.
these adjustable shocks cured my wheel hop, I dont even have traction bars, but I did do some work to the leaf springs

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-caltracs?page=3&highlight=rancho

 
Another possible solution is to add an adjustable pinion snubber which will stop axle rotation and spring wind up to some degree. After that I think it is either go to a different tire and wheel size or a different rear suspension set up like ladder bar, 4 link etc. But in all honesty, I am not knowledgeable about those. I think leaf springs are better technology than they are given credit for and they usually can be made to work well.

I do think the very short sidewall is contributing to the issue. If you can run a smaller rear wheel, maybe you could try a different set of rear wheels and tires to determine if this would be a better solution. My 255-45-17's spin like crazy, but I get no wheel hop and I am not running traction bars-If I was closer I'd let you give them or even the 275-55-15's (I think) that are sitting in my basement, but they even spin worse

 
Another possible solution is to add an adjustable pinion snubber which will stop axle rotation and spring wind up to some degree. After that I think it is either go to a different tire and wheel size or a different rear suspension set up like ladder bar, 4 link etc. But in all honesty, I am not knowledgeable about those. I think leaf springs are better technology than they are given credit for and they usually can be made to work well.

I do think the very short sidewall is contributing to the issue. If you can run a smaller rear wheel, maybe you could try a different set of rear wheels and tires to determine if this would be a better solution. My 255-45-17's spin like crazy, but I get no wheel hop and I am not running traction bars-If I was closer I'd let you give them or even the 275-55-15's (I think) that are sitting in my basement, but they even spin worse

Thanks for the thoughts but changing the rear wheels is not an option I care to try at this time.

 
roy,

i run the calvert traction bars too and i had them set to a 0 preload. as soon as they touch the spring, i stop. however, i have zero wheel hopping on my set up. but, i got the mono leaf springs and their drag shocks calvert sells too. since both you and i use a stick for a transmission, i set the shocks to 8.

i would go with the a really stiff leaf (mono leaf would be better and there will be no front bushing of course) change to a drag shock that helps weight transfer.

in order for the calverts to work properly, you MUST have at least 5 inches of front suspension travel. if not, they won't work very well. if you are using original height springs in the front then you should be ok but if you are using 620 springs or something similar then they are super short and aren't giving you that 5 inches of suspension travel.

roy, just PM me if you want to discuss this further. i run the drag racing suspension set up but i'm more than comfortable driving on the street with the setup.

 
Roy are going for the spin like hell or squat and go? Definately determining factors!
Yes, just no wheel hop is what I'm looking for. I think I'm going to readjust the CalTracs and I have a couple other issues to worry about before the wheel hop issue will come into play.



roy,

i run the calvert traction bars too and i had them set to a 0 preload. as soon as they touch the spring, i stop. however, i have zero wheel hopping on my set up. but, i got the mono leaf springs and their drag shocks calvert sells too. since both you and i use a stick for a transmission, i set the shocks to 8.

i would go with the a really stiff leaf (mono leaf would be better and there will be no front bushing of course) change to a drag shock that helps weight transfer.

in order for the calverts to work properly, you MUST have at least 5 inches of front suspension travel. if not, they won't work very well. if you are using original height springs in the front then you should be ok but if you are using 620 springs or something similar then they are super short and aren't giving you that 5 inches of suspension travel.

roy, just PM me if you want to discuss this further. i run the drag racing suspension set up but i'm more than comfortable driving on the street with the setup.
Stock springs in front and rear, but it is all new.

 
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Roy are going for the spin like hell or squat and go? Definately determining factors!
Yes, just no wheel hop is what I'm looking for. I think I'm going to readjust the CalTracs and I have a couple other issues to worry about before the wheel hop issue will come into play.



roy,

i run the calvert traction bars too and i had them set to a 0 preload. as soon as they touch the spring, i stop. however, i have zero wheel hopping on my set up. but, i got the mono leaf springs and their drag shocks calvert sells too. since both you and i use a stick for a transmission, i set the shocks to 8.

i would go with the a really stiff leaf (mono leaf would be better and there will be no front bushing of course) change to a drag shock that helps weight transfer.

in order for the calverts to work properly, you MUST have at least 5 inches of front suspension travel. if not, they won't work very well. if you are using original height springs in the front then you should be ok but if you are using 620 springs or something similar then they are super short and aren't giving you that 5 inches of suspension travel.

roy, just PM me if you want to discuss this further. i run the drag racing suspension set up but i'm more than comfortable driving on the street with the setup.
Stock springs in front and rear, but it is all new.
you need a stiffer rear spring but the front mushy springs are good cuz they give you alot of suspension travel (and i'm speaking at least 10 inches and don't ask me how i know :D:p:cool:)

you also need weight transfering shocks, try the calvert stuff.

 
Roy are going for the spin like hell or squat and go? Definately determining factors!
Yes, just no wheel hop is what I'm looking for. I think I'm going to readjust the CalTracs and I have a couple other issues to worry about before the wheel hop issue will come into play.



roy,

i run the calvert traction bars too and i had them set to a 0 preload. as soon as they touch the spring, i stop. however, i have zero wheel hopping on my set up. but, i got the mono leaf springs and their drag shocks calvert sells too. since both you and i use a stick for a transmission, i set the shocks to 8.

i would go with the a really stiff leaf (mono leaf would be better and there will be no front bushing of course) change to a drag shock that helps weight transfer.

in order for the calverts to work properly, you MUST have at least 5 inches of front suspension travel. if not, they won't work very well. if you are using original height springs in the front then you should be ok but if you are using 620 springs or something similar then they are super short and aren't giving you that 5 inches of suspension travel.

roy, just PM me if you want to discuss this further. i run the drag racing suspension set up but i'm more than comfortable driving on the street with the setup.
Stock springs in front and rear, but it is all new.
you need a stiffer rear spring but the front mushy springs are good cuz they give you alot of suspension travel (and i'm speaking at least 10 inches and don't ask me how i know :D:p:cool:)

you also need weight transfering shocks, try the calvert stuff.
What I dont understand is this is the first one I have had to do this wheel hop thing. None of my others did, my uncles dont:huh:

 
What I dont understand is this is the first one I have had to do this wheel hop thing. None of my others did, my uncles dont:huh:
R..look at the simple things first..It's important to check your pinion angle..so start there.

http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/Universal_Joint_Alignment_Proc_111606.pdf

Here's my thoughts..I've done many suspension up grades on quite a few cars..Your NOT running a 1/4 mile car..Your running a street car WITH upgraded MODERN wheels & tires..Your combo of 18's in the rear & 17's in the front with MODERN STICKY LOW PROFILE TIRES doesn't require the caltracs..(I know just what you want to hear) You've replaced all the suspension with new components..So you can rule out the leafs,bushings, etc...As an experiment I would remove the caltracs & see what happens..I'm a firm believer that for a street car with a modern tire wheel setup & suspension components in good condition..slapper bars..caltracs..etc..are not required.. I've never installed them in any car I've upgraded with 18's & no problem EVER with wheel hop..If your goal is straight line 1/4 mile..then ditch the 18's & throw some 15's on there.. keep the caltracs..(I know thats not happening those 18's are the bomb !) JMHO

 
What I dont understand is this is the first one I have had to do this wheel hop thing. None of my others did, my uncles dont:huh:
R..look at the simple things first..It's important to check your pinion angle..so start there.

http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/Universal_Joint_Alignment_Proc_111606.pdf

Here's my thoughts..I've done many suspension up grades on quite a few cars..Your NOT running a 1/4 mile car..Your running a street car WITH upgraded MODERN wheels & tires..Your combo of 18's in the rear & 17's in the front with MODERN STICKY LOW PROFILE TIRES doesn't require the caltracs..(I know just what you want to hear) You've replaced all the suspension with new components..So you can rule out the leafs,bushings, etc...As an experiment I would remove the caltracs & see what happens..I'm a firm believer that for a street car with a modern tire wheel setup & suspension components in good condition..slapper bars..caltracs..etc..are not required.. I've never installed them in any car I've upgraded with 18's & no problem EVER with wheel hop..If your goal is straight line 1/4 mile..then ditch the 18's & throw some 15's on there.. keep the caltracs..(I know thats not happening those 18's are the bomb !) JMHO
17 inch wheels not giving good traction? i've pulled mini wheelie's with my 17 wheels and with nitto drag radials.

here is a pic with me in mid motion of my wheelie, but of course its with my small tire slicks.







regardless, i think you got too soft of a rear leaf spring. the caltracs could work but you still got a butt load of power and a soft spring to work with. hell, i got my old 5 leaf springs sitting in the yard you could try if you want. i'd be willing to ship them to you and sell for a cheap price if you like them.

 
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