Trunk Rehab

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Mister 4x4

Too Big to Sneak
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Location
San Angelo, Texas
My Car
1971 Mustang Mach 1
I've never actually seen a completed trunk, and I'm wondering how the trunk actually goes together. Currently, mine is just a piece of rusty sheet metal laying on top of the frame rails and gas tank, with nothing on the sides obstructing the view of the ground.

I know you can get the trunk floor pan and drop-down panels, but it just seems to me that there's more to the trunk than just those three pieces of sheet metal (otherwise, stuff would roll off the trunk pan and just fall out between the quarter panel skins and drop-down panels.

Anybody got some nice pictures of what a trunk should look like? The Body Assembly Manual doesn't cover the trunk very well at all.

Thanks in advance.

 
Stuff falling into the quarter panels is pretty much it.

Ford left the trunk area unfinished. From the factory they would spray the area about half way up the inside of the quarter panel with a grey splatter paint. That was it. They didnt even protect the drivers side quarter panel drop off with a card board cut out like on the 70s model.

There was no road noise insulation or trunk pad, some dealers offered a minimal trunk pad as an after thought to dress it up. But from the factory you got nothing.

Part of the reason was the optional fold down seats when you folded everything down and opened the trap door at the back it took up the entire floor of the trunk so you could not have carpet there because of the floor stoppers for the door.

Also all the models have very different trunk interiors. So they never had a nice finish for them.

From the factory you just got a splatter paint trunk bomb paint job.

On my car I bought an market trunk carpet from a converble, then trimmed it back for a better fit then the Mach 1 version, and modified a trunk drop down cover from a 1970 to fit the 72, so I could have extra mat on the left side and protect the wiring to the fuel sender

 
Fold down with space saver.

lz6.jpg


lz5.jpg


lz7.jpg


Non-fold down with space saver.

71trunkoriginal90.jpg


71trunkoriginal91.JPG


71trunkoriginal92.jpg


71trunkoriginal93.jpg


there was a difference between the space saver and a full size spare trunks. It seems some early cars got an extra bracket welded into the trunk to hold the inflation canister on the right side. While later cars got a bracket that would go inside the space saver, and got bolted through the spare tire holder. if you got the fold down seats you had to get a space saver if you wanted a spare tire, due to clearance.

if you had a non-fold down rear seat you had the option of a space saver tire.

my car always had a full size spare so no extra holder was installed in my car.

any cars that have a trunk mat are aftermarket. The cougar had a more finished trunk area with a mat.

i added road noise insulation and a full mat with spare cover for my car, i also installed insulation behind the rear seat for extra noise cancellation and to keep the rear seat warmer in the winter.

 
I never could figure out why my car had a trunk, except to carry the spare tire and jack. Other than that, none of my stuff ever would fit except for a few golf clubs. Long trips required flipping down the rear seat and putting a suit case there. If I wanted a real trunk, I'd get a Town Car.

 
So... there's a gap between the sides of the trunk floor pan, and the quarter panels. Do the drop-down panels somehow 'seal' up to the bottom edges of the quarter panels or something? (Because otherwise, the stuff that falls down there would just roll out the back of the car... or at least that's what I see with mine - the drop downs are gone and there are holes in the quarters.

trunk2.JPG

trunk3.JPG

I think I might have to fabricate a couple pieces of sheet metal to extend the trunk floor pan out to the quarters and maybe spot weld them in so the trunk is more 'sealed' to keep small stuff from simply falling out - after I replace everything in there that I can, of course. ;)

Once I get that problem solved, I'll most likely just carpet the whole thing after adding some sealer and sound dampening materials. My rear seat's fixed, and the big area under the package tray is screaming for a box with some 12" subs and amps.

 
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my trunk floor is mostly made of fiberglass if that helps.

yhea basically the quarterpanel bottoms curve into the side drop downs to seal them off. there is suppose to be a drain on both drop downs to try and get rid of all the water that gets down there from the leaking side widows. the drain position makes no sense since its a few inches up the drop downs instead of at the lowest spot where the water sits, 'quality was job none'.

to get a complete trunk floor installed you have to remove the tail light panel by poping all the spot welds. otherwise you need to section the new floor in half and insert it through the trunk lid opening, or through the bottom of the car which will be harder.

with the floor that transparent i would recommend ripping it all out and having a look at the last 3 feet of the frame rails they might be soft, also look at the cross bar that holds the gas tank straps it might be a gonner also.

if you have a trap door and a folding rear seat, save all the rusty metal when you cut it out there are little brackets that hold the feet on the door that the new sheet metal won't have.

throw nothing out.

 
Oh - you have no idea how far gone my poor car really is.

But, I keep seeing everybody's cool cars, and all the parts available through OMS and CJ Pony Parts and keep dreaming of the day when mine looks like the one in my sig pic.

FYI - the piece of angle iron in each pic is actually functional and part of the car. It has a chain that goes down through a hole in the floor pan, in between the straps and the gas tank, and back up on the other side, forming a 'hammock'-like cradle for the tank. I'm not kidding - I couldn't have made this up. Redneck Engineering at its... ummm... finest, I suppose. :D



to get a complete trunk floor installed you have to remove the tail light panel by poping all the spot welds. otherwise you need to section the new floor in half and insert it through the trunk lid opening, or through the bottom of the car which will be harder.

with the floor that transparent i would recommend ripping it all out and having a look at the last 3 feet of the frame rails they might be soft, also look at the cross bar that holds the gas tank straps it might be a gonner also.

if you have a trap door and a folding rear seat, save all the rusty metal when you cut it out there are little brackets that hold the feet on the door that the new sheet metal won't have.

throw nothing out.
Hadn't gotten to cleaning everything out of the trunk area yet - I've just been curious during the times I'm not able to work on the car.

I have to pull the tail light panel anyway for a new one, so that's not a problem. Now the area around the trunk seal itself, I'll either have to find a donor car or fabricate some serious patches. Good thing I've got some nice metal tools (welders, cutters, torches, etc.) in a great shop at my disposal.

See my note about the Redneck Gas Tank Hammock above. I don't know for sure how bad the cross-member is, or how bad the after frame rails are - but I'm expecting to replace them as well.

How did my pal put it the other day? "Looks like you've still got a few nice parts to build a new car around." LOL!!

 
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Outstanding, HK! Thanks for sharing. I can't wait to get going on the trunk area... although, I still have to get the front clip back in shape first (just trying to get some reference for the trunk when I finally do get after it).

 
to Hemikiller:

I m in the process of doing exactly the same project on our Mach1. Finding a fast way to cut spot welds with out destroying everthing has been interesting. What pointers do you have for getting it all back togethor right. I got the rest of the trunk floor out last night. The turndowns were all but gone. The quarters have junky patches in the bottom made out of sheet metal, screen and bondo. The frame rails look pretty good, but had to go pick up a rear cross member from NPD on Friday. The one under the floor was rusted in half. About ready to put it back together...

Charles

 
to Hemikiller:

I m in the process of doing exactly the same project on our Mach1. Finding a fast way to cut spot welds with out destroying everthing has been interesting. What pointers do you have for getting it all back togethor right. I got the rest of the trunk floor out last night. The turndowns were all but gone. The quarters have junky patches in the bottom made out of sheet metal, screen and bondo. The frame rails look pretty good, but had to go pick up a rear cross member from NPD on Friday. The one under the floor was rusted in half. About ready to put it back together...

Charles
Charles..First before anything was cut out you should have measured to any referance points you can find & jot down those measurements a few pics doesn't hurt too..After everthing is cut out.. remove all traces of rust INSIDE the frame rails and every place else.. Heres a product I use that I have been recommending to everyone here for work just like this rustbullet You should use it on areas that are OPEN now that will be closed after the repair. Any new parts (trunk floor drop offs crossmember etc) should be cleaned with wax & grease remover I use spi http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Product%20Info/waterborne%20Wax%20&%20Grease%20remover.htm

then they should be sanded with 80 grit on the D.A. & Then epoxy primed BEFORE installation..Everything should be mocked up & fitted first..once you have your final fit use a few sheet metal screws or these Cleco's to hold & mark your final alignment then mark on the panels where your spot welds go..Take everything apart..Drill your holes for the spot welds...place the panels back together (use the cleco holes)...scribe through the weld holes...remove everything & where ever a weld will be, grind with 50 grit then spray with 3m weld thru primer. Have fun welding !!!:cool:


More of my vids here

http://www.saturdaymorninggarage.com/

 
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Qcode,

I like the video. I was going to handle the plug welds on the rear frame rails the same way you did. I was going to drill holes in the trunk floor and plug weld from the top side. I haven't taken any measurments on the car yet. The tailight panel, trunk floor and rear trunk support are out. The floor pieces were very rusty. The taillgiht panel was rusty and some holes in it had been filled with bondo (nice):dodgy: I had planned on leaving the qtrs on the car for now and the trunk lid to help in panel alignment. Where did you source your rear crossmemeber from. The one I got from NPD on Friday is MUCH heavier metal than the stock piece, it is also bent slightly differently. Originally I had planned on replacing the full qtrs but that makes me a little nervous getting the panels back on right at the doors and around the windows, especially with the questionable stamping of new parts today. I have Kevin Tetzs Paintcation series and in the body panel replacement DVD he uses a piece of a patch panel instead of the whole panel on a 70 mustang. That is what I am considering doing instead of the whole qtr like I had planned. I really only need the lower rear of the qtr and the lower outer wheel house. I have the full floor and the turn downs on hand. I had planned on Epoxy priming all the panels and then grinding back at the weld areas. I have U pol weld thru primer on hand. I also have two full gallons of epoxy primer in my shop (PPG shopline and Omni). I am still looking at the P sheets to figure out whether my epoxy primers are self etching or not. Do you epoxy over the EDP coating on the new parts or strip it off? This is my first Mustang and my first time at wholsale rust repairs. I am very capable, but want to avoid as many problems as possible by talking to people who have "been there done that". The car was also not complete when we got it. So like some other people I have seen I need the forums input and resources to figure out how it goes back togethor. Also the sources for cleaners and sealers is a big help. I thought I would use rust converter inside the frame rails and then use Eastwood's rust encapsolator on all the non visible stuff.

Thanks for the help, Charles

 
This is my first Mustang and my first time at wholsale rust repairs. I am very capable, but want to avoid as many problems as possible by talking to people who have "been there done that".
Very well stated, and thanks to HemiKiller, 72 Hcode and Qcode and all the others on this thread! It is comforting to know that mine was not all that different when we first got it. I had a shop do the floor pans and trunk pan/drop downs. I'm planning to tackle the cowl area and tailight panel and lower quarters myself, I figure it is time to learn to weld and do body work.

 
Qcode,

I like the video. I was going to handle the plug welds on the rear frame rails the same way you did. I was going to drill holes in the trunk floor and plug weld from the top side. I haven't taken any measurments on the car yet. The tailight panel, trunk floor and rear trunk support are out. The floor pieces were very rusty. The taillgiht panel was rusty and some holes in it had been filled with bondo (nice):dodgy: I had planned on leaving the qtrs on the car for now and the trunk lid to help in panel alignment. Where did you source your rear crossmemeber from. The one I got from NPD on Friday is MUCH heavier metal than the stock piece, it is also bent slightly differently. Originally I had planned on replacing the full qtrs but that makes me a little nervous getting the panels back on right at the doors and around the windows, especially with the questionable stamping of new parts today. I have Kevin Tetzs Paintcation series and in the body panel replacement DVD he uses a piece of a patch panel instead of the whole panel on a 70 mustang. That is what I am considering doing instead of the whole qtr like I had planned. I really only need the lower rear of the qtr and the lower outer wheel house. I have the full floor and the turn downs on hand. I had planned on Epoxy priming all the panels and then grinding back at the weld areas. I have U pol weld thru primer on hand. I also have two full gallons of epoxy primer in my shop (PPG shopline and Omni). I am still looking at the P sheets to figure out whether my epoxy primers are self etching or not. Do you epoxy over the EDP coating on the new parts or strip it off? This is my first Mustang and my first time at wholsale rust repairs. I am very capable, but want to avoid as many problems as possible by talking to people who have "been there done that". The car was also not complete when we got it. So like some other people I have seen I need the forums input and resources to figure out how it goes back togethor. Also the sources for cleaners and sealers is a big help. I thought I would use rust converter inside the frame rails and then use Eastwood's rust encapsolator on all the non visible stuff.

Thanks for the help, Charles
I used the npd rear cross & had no problems...I matched it to the oem cross & all the critical stuff is where it should be..I like that it was a bit heavier stamping..You should have no problems with it...There are no FULL qtrs being reproed that I know of, so unless you have oem fulls like I do (bought them in 89 when you could still get them from ford do no cutting till you have your parts...You should also only do one side at a time to maintain alignment..I had no choice since the hack I had given the car to to do the structual work cut them both off :( A partial replacement or "section" is fine on the qtr)..If your welding skills are good you can do a butt weld of the section if not an easier way is to use a panel flanger. I have a vid here on how to do a butt weld http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-butt-welds-apron-fitting PPG or omni are both good products if you have it than use it..Makes no difference if it's self etching or not the key is to prep the parts proper like I posted.. 80 grit on the d/a is your friend on bare metal...As far edp coatings go NEVER EVER remove them if possible..Just scratch them up with a red scuff pad..then wax & grease remover..& your good to go ! I think you you be much happier with the rust bullet vs eastwood..I don't see a patent on eastwoods rust stuff nor any other rust converter / protector product.

 
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