351w build [UPDATE]

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Joined
Jun 15, 2011
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Location
Wisconsin
My Car
73 Mach 1 Mustang (project)
93 Dodge Shadow (daily)
86 Buick Regal (2nd project)
I got my brother's 351w for his dump truck back from the machine shop yesterday.

When I took it apart I noticed that the pistons were .010 over. Never heard of that. It was bored to .030 over, polished the crank, new pistons, ect.

I'll post the the build here as I go along.

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So today I decided to paint it.

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Thanks for looking.


I was looking at getting a cam like this and was wondering if I could reuse the factory pushrods with it?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K4400/

 
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The .010 was what it took to true the bore. Really not that uncommon if your only rebuilding close to factory spec. You can get .020, .030 whatever it takes. As for the push rods, Make sure the valve springs can handle the cam you choose and they'll be fine. Too large a cam without stiffer springs and the springs will totally collapse and bend the push rods.

 
The .010 was what it took to true the bore. Really not that uncommon if your only rebuilding close to factory spec. You can get .020, .030 whatever it takes. As for the push rods, Make sure the valve springs can handle the cam you choose and they'll be fine. Too large a cam without stiffer springs and the springs will totally collapse and bend the push rods.
Ok, I plan on doing the heads eventually but we are kind of running out of time and money right now. As for the cam I believe it's pretty mild, comparable to an rv cam. Has anyone heard of any durability issues with the summit brand cams?

Here are the two cams I'm looking at.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K4400/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-11200LK/

Any suggestions?

Thanks for the info.

 
Dump truck, I'm trying to make it as durable as possible while making a little more low to mid range power and torque.

Did I post this in the wrong section?

 
Dump truck, I'm trying to make it as durable as possible while making a little more low to mid range power and torque.

Did I post this in the wrong section?
Nah it's fine. Was just wondering if this beast was going in your car. I think either of those cams would be fine plus with the intake it will be a torque monster.

 
Dump truck, I'm trying to make it as durable as possible while making a little more low to mid range power and torque.

Did I post this in the wrong section?
Nah it's fine. Was just wondering if this beast was going in your car. I think either of those cams would be fine plus with the intake it will be a torque monster.
+1 to that Don!!

 
A little update on the build. Sunday I called up my uncle to help me put the crank and pistons in. When he shows up we get to it only to realize the gasket kit I got was wrong, it was for a one piece rear main seal and I have a two piece block. So I went to my machine shop, that did all of the work, on Monday and tell them. They were very cool about it and had the right one for me the next day.

Long story short we got the crank and pistons in today. Here are some pictures.

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I may have a slight problem though, some of the pistons are canted in the cylinders. What could cause this and how can I fix it?

Thanks for looking.

 
The connecting rods would have to cocked at the crank or (god forbid) bent. Are they all slightly turned and have you already touqued the rod caps?

 
They all seemed to be seated right on the crank. Two on each side are canted and two seem to be more level or straight. Could the pistons be side specific? I'm going to go back to the machine shop tomorrow to ask them and show them some pictures.

Thanks for the response.

 
Good idea. The last thing you need is piston to valve contact. They should have the putty available so you can check your clearances. Good Luck.

 
Well I got an update. I finally got the cam and timing set in the motor after first getting the wrong timing set and installing the wrong pin into the cam. Also got the oil pump and pick up installed. Now I get to rebuild the heads and paint a bunch of parts, should be fun.

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What did you find out about the piston positions? Curious
Oh yeah I forgot to mention that. I talked to the machine shop and they said the pistons are fine (something about the pistons being used for so many different motors that they may not be perfect.) and I shouldn't have any piston to valve clearance issues. How do I even check for valve clearance?

 
::huh::: I call BS on the machinist.

I have never seen that piston abnormality before, ever.

May be true... but I don't buy it...

Each piston should be notched on the crown for "forward" installation direction. I see yours have arrows, and appear to be installed correctly.

On a stock piston, the pins are (or should be) manufactured with a slight offset on the pistons (ie. not exactly bisecting the circumference), but not "twisted".

http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/cows-offset.html

I'd bet it's a casting defect or twisted rods (never seen that either, but I guess it could happen).

 
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