Orange peel

Hello all; My 1973 Vert was painted prior to my buying it. I think it is a great looking color. albeit not original, I like it anyway! It is areddish brown metallic with what looks to be lots of clear coat. The problem is it is all orange peely and just doesnt look so good. I want to get it painted the original red maybe next year when finances permit. I took it to a body man and he said"all that is wrong with that paint is that it was never compounded or wet sanded". He then instructed me how to wet sand and compound, saying I would have a hard time wearing through that much clear with 500 wet paper, as that was my concern. My intent is to wet sand with 500, then buff with mechanical buffer then wax. Has anybody got any tips for me? Or do you think this will paint look shiny?

do some searches on it. Make sure you use a block when you sand, not just your fingers. Start on the valence panels to get 'good' at it, see the results. Then lots of patience.

NOT 500 grit paper

Use 2000 , maybe 1500 if you have never done it use 2000 wet paper

will take longer but be safer

If you use a block stay away from edges it will cut edges fast

+1 on what OMS said.

My friend used 36 hours on mine

Wetsanding,polishing, wax and sealer.

I would also recomend using a Coating Thickness Measurement instrument ( short of a better name for it).

You dont want to wetsand thru the clearcoat or the base for that matter. My car looks like its just painted...very nice result, all clearcoat stripes went away as well

I can help with advice, but you need to be sure how much clear is on there, also If it has been on a while it will be hard hard hard, so it will sand hard hard hard. Please don't use 500 grit, it will ruin your whole day. Heres a thread that I posted on some info that I think helped someone else at least I hope so. Oh by the way The only requirement for obtaining any of my advice is YOU GOT TO POST SOME PICTURES when your done

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-orange-peel-look-in-clearcoat

I can help with advice, but you need to be sure how much clear is on there, also If it has been on a while it will be hard hard hard, so it will sand hard hard hard. Please don't use 500 grit, it will ruin your whole day. Heres a thread that I posted on some info that I think helped someone else at least I hope so. Oh by the way The only requirement for obtaining any of my advice is YOU GOT TO POST SOME PICTURES when your done

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-orange-peel-look-in-clearcoat

Click to expand...

That was my thread and I followed go times advice and the paint turned out GREAT!!!! I had a bunch of orange peel in the clear. I used 1200 grit wet on a sanding block then 2000 grit wet on sanding block, then 3m rubbing compound put on with 9 inch electric buffer and foam pad, then 3m glaze with another foam pad. Looks awsome. I got the buffer from harbour freight and it worked great. Got the 3m products and foam pads from local autobody supply house. Make sure you tape the edges of the panels next to the one your working on. Everyone had alot of great advice in that thread!!! Thanks guys!!!!

whatever you do don't use 500 grit. I'd probably start with 1200 - 1500. Take your time and use lots of water.

1500, lots of water, a block and change the paper very often. Also cut the paper don't tear it. If you keep lots of water on it as you go, the paper will last longer and it will cut slower. Wear latex or nitrile gloves, make sure your clothes dont have metal buttons or buckles and don't work in direct sunlight.

I also used Meguire's swirl remover with lots of clean cloths and just hand pressure to clean us the oxidation and orange peel texture on my Toyota's hood recently and it does a nice job.

No power buffers!

I can help with advice, but you need to be sure how much clear is on there, also If it has been on a while it will be hard hard hard, so it will sand hard hard hard. Please don't use 500 grit, it will ruin your whole day.

Click to expand...

I'll second the diamond-hardness that clearcoat can get in a fairly short amount of time. I am by no means an expert, but have done my own car before. Had an extra decklid painted when the overall was done, and waited several months to get out some imperfections in it. Meguiars Diamond Cut and 2000 grit wouldn't cut nearly as quickly as the week old paint did, as in not even close. There's NOOOOO way that I would consider doing that again.

Start in an inconspicuous spot, and go slow. You may find yourself bailing out of the thought of doing the whole shebang rather quickly...

Well guys, I have buffed and waxed boats before without going through gelcoat,so I am going for it, I have this 3m stuff in the 4 litre container that is fairly agressive, so I will start with wet 1200 and then use the 3M compound and then wax with buffer. I am going to try, the worst I can do is ruin the paint job, which as it stands now doesn t look great anyways! Thanks for the tip about cutting through the edges, (not many of those on a boat) I see what you mean, they will cut through faster. I am going to use a block wherever I can. I think this paint job was done before the car was stored 10 -15 years ago, so the clear should be set hard :